Jump to content

Robsweden

Members
  • Posts

    429
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Robsweden

  1. Hi How is your fuel pressure ? Have you checked with a gauge ? sniper should run at 58 ? How does your timing map look like ? Should really make a map not use the one the guide builds. Check that ECU and handheld has the latest firmware. How is the O2 sensor setup ? Take a log file from cold start. Exahuast leak can fool the 02 sensor creating this issue, also combined with a healthy cam its getting more problematic,
  2. Then you need the tach adapter from MSd. This is from the sniper forum/Holley https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?45589-1970-Mustang-factory-tachometer-wiring-with-Dual-Sync-Sniper-setup
  3. You probably need the Tach Adapter from MSD. Also depend on what you have changed coil 12 volt ? etc. Are you controlling timing ? Digital Box ? Have you fired up the sniper ?
  4. Thanks, did you use the one for 69-70 or is there one for the 71-73 ?
  5. This is nice, were did you get it ? Im planing on doing this.
  6. Btw no rubbing what so ever, I could probably fit 295*40*18 in the back :-)
  7. Thanks I used 235*45*18 in front and 275*40*18 Back
  8. Finally they arrived :-) Had to space out about 3 mm to clear the Cobra front calipers.
  9. After a few rides I can say that there is a big difference vs GAS dampers. Just one click on the damper is making a big change. Wating for new wheels , 18 inch Il be back with more info.
  10. This is 1 inch cut off the aircleaner to make the hood close, 73 with 351c and Airgap
  11. Hello I noticed that I have no pads its steel against steel. Im changingto new Currie clamps etc, should I put the missing pad in or leave it as it is ? Will the pad lower the car ?
  12. Hi If you have the original converter you can do A B measurement. In height of the converters, I remember that my original converter moved about 10mm. When torqued to the flywheel.
  13. Finally they arrived, and are now on the Mach1. Seems like good quality.
  14. Hi Check the coil, maybe do a swap test for another, a bad coil can produce that kind of problem. Does the Petronix getting a clean 12 volt ? Spark plugs wire quality ? Is the timing correct ? advance curve ? The valvetrain when you milled the heads ? Geometri ? Can you monitor fuel pressure ? is the Carb set upp correct, jets etc. How does the sparkplugs look ? I would start with the coil and ignition system then Fuel then valvetrain :-)
  15. Hi Before going to EFI you probably had a mechanic curve on the dizzy. If that was working good build a timing table from those settings. Drive around and take some datalogs. Listen to the engine, and combined with info from datalog etc tune the engine. Don´t forget to look at the spark plugs, even with EFI its a good check.
  16. Bore the motor 0.30 if needed. Refurbish rods, polish crank. Flat tappet cam will be fine, hydraulic lifters and choose the cam after how you gonna use the car and transmission. New timing chain and gears. Electric ignition pertronix, new wires , coil Use the 2v heads they will do fine, change the valve to one piece. Mill the heads for a compression around 9.5 thats about 67.68 cc chamber Maybe a better intake RPM Airgap or similar. New bolts ARP, in critical places. Stock oil pump will be fine, arp driveshaft for oilpump, Headers. Lots of this stuff you wont even see, but feel :-) Correctly done this will produce around 350-375 hp easily and good torque for street driving.
×
×
  • Create New...