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    1971 Mach 1


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Heardatbeat's Achievements


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  1. I think after everything I'll stick with the 351C. I plan on stroking it to 393. The 460 is an 1988 block which apparently is not too good to start a build with.
  2. I have the opportunity to pickup a 460 for dirt cheap. My '71 Mach 1 is an M code 351C with CC heads. If you had a choice which would you build for the '71? Any one been in this dilemma? I would be mating it to a 4 speed.
  3. I'm not sure I know what part that is. Can you point it out to me?
  4. I'm sorry. I didn't know. I will post prices when I get back on my computer. I did it this way cause I didn't want to go too high or undersell myself. But I will look up what each part is relatively going for and post the prices accordingly.
  5. There's some tool you can make or buy that's supposed to keep everything in line.
  6. That would be awesome. Nice car by the way! That burnout was badass!
  7. I was going to try to keep the staggered shocks so I'll probably try to have some fabbed up so I can keep them. Do you got any photos of your set up? I would love to see some shots of how it's all mounted up.
  8. Thanks. I'll make sure to do that. Do you have staggered shocks on yours?
  9. That's some really good info. I have been reading about the 8.8 inch and the inherent problems with the C clips. There is a solution out there that gets rid of the C clips entirely. I know most of us build our cars for that 10 percent. But I'm trying to sway from that and build for the 90 percent. Which is just a badass street car. I'm not a professional driver by any sense of the word and I don't need drilled or slotted rotors. If I was going to use mine for the track I would definitely be building a track car but since it's just going to be a street bruiser I don't think the C clips will be too much of a problem and if it does the C clip eliminator seems to fix that issue.
  10. Right on! Yeah I already sourced one out. 230. I'll have to ask about the drive shaft. Thanks for the good info. Now I just need to sell the 9 inch. I'm sure I won't have trouble with that.
  11. That's cool! I wouldn't mind switching to disc brakes. Especially if it's oe. Well some fabrication needs to be done to this one so maybe I'll sell it and get a 8.8 instead. I'm sure I won't have trouble selling the 9 inch. Starting from a blank slate would you rather get an original 9 inch or the 8.8 swap?
  12. The housing diameter measures 3.25 inches where the spring perch sits. The length of the bare housing is 61.25.
  13. The green block must be unclipped before you can remove the fuse block. I can take some photos for you tomorrow if you haven't figured it out by then.
  14. Good afternoon everyone. I got a '71 Mach 1 that the previous owners swapped an 8 inch in place of the original 9 inch (learned from help here and the Marti Report). Well I finally got a good deal on a 9 inch from someone local to me all he knew was that it was from a pickup $150 for the housing, center and axles. After some cleaning I found the bucktag and found out it came from a 70's F-100 it measures 61 inches from flange to flange. After some more help from one of the 7123 FB groups I found out the spring perches are on the top instead of bottom because pickups had the leaf spring on top as opposed to the leafspring coming from the bottom on a Mustang. So my question to ya'll is can anyone measure their original 7123 9 inch housing diameter please? I want to know if it's going to be similar enough for minimal work. I know I have to cut the perches and re-weld them to the bottom. I'm also concerned about the staggered shocks plate. If the housing is bigger the plate theoretically should not bolt up right?
  15. There's a bolt in the middle that you unscrew. It's spring loaded if I remember right. Once you unscrew it completely from the top there is a clip that disconnects the engine harness from the dash harness.
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