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    72 Mustang, 65D body style, dark green metallic, black vinyl roof, 351C, FMX transmission


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    Brunswick, Ohio
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rmb3005's Achievements


Explorer (4/14)

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  1. Thanks Jason. Think I'm going to replace the voltage regulator. It can't hurt. After looking closer at the regulator, it looks newer, but the connector that plugs into the side of the regulator isn't in very good condition. It looks like it may the original connector. It doesn't fit snug, so I'm going to replace that first (it's a $3.00 part). I did push it in so it was as tight as I could get it, started the car and did not have any flickering. I should mention that I've only had the car for 8 months, and the previous owner did do a lot of work under the hood. I haven't had any real big issues with the car, just addressing thing like this when they come up.
  2. Thanks Jason. Think I'm going to replace the voltage regulator. It can't hurt.
  3. So tonight was the first time I actually drove my '72 (H code) when it was dark enough to need the lights. The headlights, dash lights an interior lights flicker when the engine is running. It gets worse when the turn signal is on. I suspect that the voltage regulator may not be be working properly, or the alternator isn't working properly, or a combination of the two. Suggestions, ideas? Thanks for your help in advance. Bob
  4. I have no problem "accidentally" dropping the mirror. lollerz
  5. I watched the video and there was mention of a replacement mirror from the West Coast Couger web site for $1.80. They're actually $16.00 on that web site. But $16.00 is a lot better than $130.00 for a whole replacement sport mirror. I'll probably order the $16.00 mirror and give it a try. It really seems like it's not too difficult.
  6. The video is very easy to follow, except I would still have to remove the actual mirror and drill out or grind off the rivets to access the ball socket, and then replace the mirror. It doesn't look like there's any other way to do it without intentionally breaking the mirror because the ball and socket are behind the mirror.
  7. Looking for a passenger side manual racing mirror. Color is not important. I just want the actual mirror and adjustment assembly. Mine is so worn out the mirror won't stay in position. Thanks. Bob
  8. Thanks to everyone for your input and suggestions. A special thanks to Don C who gave me the link to the grease injector needle on Amazon. I received it today, went out in the garage and injected grease into that upper ball joint and....the creak is history!! Best damn tool ever!! Bob free image upload api
  9. I'm about a 45 minute drive from Summit Racing. $3.82 US + tax https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-8101g These work well. I am running them too and took care of my squeak. The new ones that came with my shocks fell apart quickly. (maybe lasted a year). I did rub them with a tiny bit of powdered graphite as well as a precaution. I determined that the issue has nothing to do with the shocks/bushings. I loosened the top shock nut and the three nuts holding the shock mount to the the shock tower as suggested by someone else in this thread (Thanks Fabrice), rocked the car and the quite annoying and loud "creak" (not a "squeak") was still there. The right side upper ball joint is what I suspect is making the noise. It is a replacement ball joint installed prior to my purchase of the vehicle and is a "greaseless" or "permanently greased" type without a grease fitting or a plug. I have purchased a "Lincoln Lubrication 5807 Grease Injector Needle with Hose" to try and get some grease into the ball joint to determine if that's the issue. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IJQ4M2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) This injector needle can be inserted between the rubber boot and the mounting stud. Not sure how well it will work, but it's worth a try. This was also suggested by someone else in this thread (Thanks Don C). I may get the shock bushings from Summit Racing anyway just to replace the originals that came with the shocks just as a preventative measure since they are so inexpensive. Bob
  10. I'm about a 45 minute drive from Summit Racing. $3.82 US + tax https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-8101g
  11. Thanks. I've got several things to try.
  12. The shocks are new (2 months) but I'm going to check the position of the shock anyway. And I'm also going to loosen the shock nut on the top of the shock and the three shock mounting bracket bolts and see what happens when I rock the car. Thanks for the info. on the bushings at Summit Racing. I live in NE Ohio so I could go there and get them if I need to.
  13. Thanks for the info. My father used to use a wooden broom handle to do the same thing to identify noises and vibration. He would put the end of the broom handle against the part and any any vibration would transfer to the wood. Going to try that as well.
  14. That's a replacement for the rubber bushing that you get when you buy new shocks. My front shocks are new, less than 2 months. I'm not convinced that this bushing is the issue, since they're new. And the suspension noise occurs on the right side only. I realize you made your own, but is there somewhere I can buy bushings like this to replace the ones that came with the shocks just to see what happens if I replace them?
  15. OK. Good to know. That also got good reviews on Amazon.
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