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Outrider4

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  1. I am also getting ready to install Drip Assembly in week or so. I really appreciate the help from Carolina Mountain Mustang. I also have a Jim Osborn Reproduction of  Body Assembly Manual for 1971-1972 Mustang. It states to use (ESB-M2G150-A) Adhesive the  entire length of Retainer between Retainer and Rail. I will be using the 3M 08578 as shown in photo from CMM. Thanks again CMM for advise and detailed photos.

  2. Guys can anyone help?  How Do I Remove The Rear Bumper From a 1971 Fastback???

     

    Everything is pretty tight in there and I've never done one before and I'm not sure if i need to remove something first

     

    Can someone post a step by step removal proceedure?

     

    AJ

     

    There are only four bolts that hold it on.  9/16 I think.  The nuts are on the inside of the trunk.  But first remove the license plate light bracket (two phillips screws).  Just hold the bumper while you are loosening the nuts so the bumper does not drop on your feet.  That's about it - really simple.  I put on a new one on the Mach1 a few months ago - piece of cake.  Oh - you also have to reuse the old brackets so you need to remove them from the old bumper and bolt them on the new one with those funny looking washers.

    Thanks, I.m removing trim from my car in preparation for the paint shop.

  3. I am so happy to have found your post. I am removing trim and getting my car ready for paint. The drip rail trim needs to be removed along with other trim prior to prep. Regarding leaks....my right Quarter window is stationary and has always had a slow leak. I have already removed the interior quarter panels. I have a complete set of Ford Shop Manuals and no where is there any mention of how to remove trim from drip rails.

    Thank You so much.

     

    Outrider4

    1971 Mach 1

    351C

  4. I began to dig into my leaking Rain Gutters on my car. I did not know my roof leaked until I was trapped in a downpour during the summer.

    My headliner, and headliner rails filled with water and flooded the interior coming down the quarter panels and pooling up on my rubber floor mats.

    everything was soaked including me I spent 2 days with the interior removed, a fan inside and 2 dehumidifiers running to get all the water out.

     

    I've learned that contrary to what I've been told the chrome trim on the 71-73 mustangs is not Stainless steel, it is Bright dipped aluminum.

    You can't really polish it because its polished aluminum that has a anti-oxidant coating on it. you can clean them up and make them look a little nicer but DO NOT wet sand them as you will remove the bright dip coating and the aluminum will Oxidize fast leaving them worse then before.

     

    To access your drip rails if you DO NOT have roll down quarter windows:

     

    (if your quarter windows roll down then you can have direct access to remove all the screws and seals, and work around the windows, then you can skip all the way to number 5)

     

    1) Remove back seat. this will vary depending on if you have a trap door fold down seat or not.

     

    2) Remove C pillar trim.

     

    3) Remove interior Quarter panel trim.

     

    4) Remove Quarter Windows.

     

    The back half of your interior should basically be empty now with the rear quarter windows removed.

     

    5) Pull the rubber seal from the roof belt line window frame.

     

    6) remove the screws from inside the channel of the window frame. These will most likely be rusted and can snap off, have a dremel handy.

     

    7) remove the window frame: Easier said then done: glue, sealant, seam sealer, and dirt and 38+ years of garbage is holding it on.

    Use a plastic trim puller or credit card, and slowly work your way around trying to loosen it. This will help prevent damage to the aluminum

    because it is very soft. work slow, a heat gun might work to help loosen any glue but be super careful you can cause damage to the paint or headliner.

     

    The window frame is 2 piece. The second piece on the lower part of the A pillar its about 1 1/2 feet long and travels down the front of the door by the hinges.

    the Larger piece runs the entire roof line, be careful removing it so you don't cause any paint damage.

     

    on early cars these chrome parts can be riveted in place. so you may need a drill handy. Some cars will have seam sealer instead of foam sealer, the seam sealer is harder to remove.

     

    Its possible in the past somebody complained about leaks and ford addressed this issue by taking things apart and using seam sealer in an effort to stop the leaks. Basically the way the car was designed its impossible to prevent all leaks.

     

    With the window frame out of the way. 

     

    8) You now have access to the chrome roof drip rail, there are 4 screws or Rivets holding it in place along with a ton of factory seam sealer or foam tape.

     

    The 4 screws especially the 2 on the roof towards the rear will be rusty and will either snap off or the Phillips heads will round out, i recommend using a cutting tool and score the tops of the screws for a flat head screw driver. It will make things much easier to remove.

     

    I found it best to start working the piece from the bottom edge where the window frame way, and try to roll the trim piece up evenly over the roof, slowly pull the piece of trim breaking the glue, or sealer, or foam tape away. use a plastic scraper or trim puller to prevent damage to the trim piece always apply even pressure to keep the piece from bending or deforming.

     

    9) now that all the trim is removed. you can inspect the roof and see how rusted out things are. cross fingers.

     

    If you find major rust and holes in the roof, this can be the case with cars that had a vinyl roof, then you will need to address this with either fabrication or donor parts.

     

    10) proceeding: Is cleaning up the aluminum trim to get it ready for new sealer. repair any damage to the trim and you can try cleaning the bright drip coating

    a little with a 0000 steel wool pad.

     

    Clean off all the old foam or sealer or glue you want a nice clean surface for the new seals.

     

    11) where to find the parts you need.

     

    Contact our member 'Hemikiller' he sells kits of foam sealer that matches what the factory used.

     

    In the kit will be larger tape to use on the window frame top roof belt line and thinner foam tape that you insert into the Curled edge of the rain gutter trim.

     

    For the hardware:

     

    Mustangs unlimited sells both types types of screws you need: for the roof trim you will need 8 of:

    754194-B.jpg

    https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=754194%2001

     

    This was an exact match to the factory Screws.

     

    next for the window frames:

    PE772-C.jpg

    https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=PE772%2001

     

    Again this was an exact match from the factory, you will need 2 bags.

     

    At this point you have the option of changing the belt line seals for the windows or replacing your roof line rubber seals if they are dried out or falling apart.

    Don At Ohio Sells complete rubber seal kits for our cars. Please contact http://www.ohiomustang.com

     

    you might also replace your window guides. these get rusty and fall apart and since you have everything apart you could replace them, these get riveted into the window channel there are 2 types.

     

    you have the door clip.

    122244A-C.jpg

    https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=122244A%2001

    This is installed on the front part of the window frame, in the area of the A pillar.

    You will need 2.

     

    and the Quarter window clip.

    122204A-C.jpg

    https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=122204A%2001

    this is installed above the Quarter windows in the area of the B piller if the car had one.

    you will need 2

     

    100_2965.jpg

     

    100_2966.jpg

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    100_2975.jpg

     

    12) with everything cleaned and new hardware ready to be installed, i recommend mocking up everything to check for fit. Do this before installing any new foam tape. place all the pieces back on the car and see how everything goes back together. you want to spot any problems now.

     

    so with everything cleaned up lets mock it up:

     

    100_2976.jpg

     

    from front to back on the drivers side. this is what you will see. there are 14 pan head screws that hold the window frame on to the body and 4 button head #8 screws that hold the rain gutter on along with sealant.

     

    100_2979.jpg

     

    100_2980.jpg

    100_2981.jpg

     

    100_2982.jpg

     

    100_2983.jpg

     

    100_2984.jpg

     

    now lets put on the chrome to show you how it assembles.

     

    100_2985.jpg

     

    here are the 4 button head screw mounts.

     

    100_2987.jpg

     

    100_2988.jpg

     

    100_2989.jpg

     

    These body holes are important they key into tabs of the window frame to help alignment.

     

    100_2990.jpg

     

    100_2991.jpg

     

    100_2992.jpg

     

    100_2993.jpg

     

     

    here is where things can change, from the factory there was a lot of laziness on the assembly line. there are special tabs that are punched into the window frame parts that help align the window frames to the correct spots.

    on my car the drivers side fit like a glove, on my passenger side some YO YO decided not the use the tabs for alignment and completely threw off the installation. This is why you need to mock things up first because you may decide to change things from the way the factory built your car.

     

    putting the frame in place. There are 5 tabs to help you align it into place.

     

    100_2994.jpg

     

    100_2995.jpg

     

    100_2998.jpg

     

    100_2999.jpg

     

     

    This is the separate lower piece of the frame and where it is positioned.

    100_3000.jpg

     

    Here is the front piece slid into place with the rest of the frame.

    100_3001.jpg

     

    One thing to note. Buried in the seam sealer or foam sealer of the rain gutter is this little clip. make sure you don't accidentally break this little clip or remove it.

    100_3002.jpg

     

     

    I cleaned up my car and added some paint to help protect it from rust and to fill in some missing paint areas.

     

    100_3003.jpg

     

    100_3004.jpg

    100_3005.jpg

     

    100_3006.jpg

     

    13) Once your happy with the fit and finish of your parts then install all the foam tape. mark the alignment of the 2 piece window frame parts  take a little sealant and put it on the smaller frame piece then slide it into position in the larger frame. This will help seal it and keep it from moving around as you install the foam tape. it also makes sure all the screw holes are in alignment for faster installation.

     

    Be careful installing the tape, once its stuck down it will never come off again.

     

    If you are using the alignment tabs when you install the foam tape just allow the tab to punch through the center of the foam tape as you lay it down. Also try not to move the tabs around they can break off.

     

    The thinner tape goes inside the roof rail chrome, its a little bit of a pain to install well. push the side with the glue into the curl so the tape sits nice and level where it will contact the roof line.

     

    Because of the foam tape you need to to really push things back into place, an assistant will help since one person can hold the parts tight as you align the screw holes.

     

    When you install the window frames, push the new screw into its correct hole and through the foam tape so you can see the tip of the screw and align it into the correct hole in the roof panel.

    leave the screws loose and work back to front so each screw is re-aligned in its original hole. once every screw is loosely installed, now start to tighten them down evenly. The foam will compress keep going until you feel no more movement, the key here is tighten everything down evenly . do not crank down on one screw it will bend the aluminum frame and kink it.

     

    Finally you will need some silicon sealant, some areas are just lacking in a proper water seal, the rear part of the rain gutter just over the back window there is a roof weld seam, and i found it left a gap on my car so i filled in some silicon in that area to get a better seal. The biggest area will be the lower part of the quarter windows where the frame sinks into the body line. i had a huge gap here and filled the area with silicon then cleaned it up to make it as neat as possible.

     

    14)The finished product.

     

    100_3085.jpg

    100_3086.jpg

    100_3087.jpg

    100_3088.jpg

    100_3089.jpg

    100_3090.jpg

     

    How good is the repair? well i feel better now with the work i did, before everything was completely deteriorated, now at least most of the water will stay out of the car.

     

    The ford design is pretty bad.

     

    They expected any extra water to fall into the quarter panel and go out from the rocker area this would explain why they put vents down at the bottom of the B pillar since they expected water to pool up in that area.

    the B pillar seals for the Quarter window are very open as well, as you drive water would go that route and end up inside the quarter panel as well.

     

    But back then a car only lasted 5 years especially in the rust belt.

     

     

    Good luck on your project.

     

  5. PO put MSD on and aftermarket air cleaner with a spacer ring around the top of the carb. and it still does not clear. It had Edelbrock Performer 2-V to 4-V set up. I need to find a smaller dia. air cleaner and stock does not fit either.

    DSC-2423.jpg

     

    I have a FiTech throttle body FI and a 14 inch air cleaner on it now. The MSD 8350 with wires installed will interfere so a 13 inch air cleaner from NPD will fix it. I HOPE  Thank you for your feedback and good luck with yours.

     

    Outrider4

  6. I ran the msd 8577 pro billet with my stock air cleaner and it fit. But I did have a 1 inch spacer under the carb if I remember correctly.

     

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8577

     

     

     

    C7433-FDC-0082-48-A4-B2-B2-E0-CFD5115426.jpg3-B851139-2-AC7-4-F8-A-98-B2-8-AE59-A4-BD2-C7.jpg

     

    Thanks for the feedback. I can't run a stock air cleaner. I have throttle body fuel injection and it won't fit. There is also a fractional difference in the height of your  8577and the 8350. My plan is to run a 13 inch air cleaner. Thanks again for you feedback.

     

    Outrider4

  7. It will fit, but a factory air cleaner will not. Here is mine with the msd ready to run dizzy.

     

    Hi Canted 393,

    Thanks for your quick feedback. I've been looking at 13 inch air cleaner from NPD. Looking at yours is that a 13 inch diameter ?

    Wish I could mount my coil like yours (Blaster 2) but I've still got A/c in the way....have to stick with horizontal mount on other side.

     

    Thanks again,

    Outrider4

  8. I'm getting ready to purchase an MSD Distributor Ready to Run Pro-Billet P/N 8350 for my 351C to replace my old Mallory Unilite. Would like to know if there is enough clearance under the hood of my Mach 1 for this dissy with wires installed. Don't really want to modify my hood. Height from base of Dissy dissy is 8.9375. any one out there have a similar install ? would appreciate any feedback to help on this problem.   

     

    Thanks

     

     

     

    8350-dim.jpg

     

    8350-v1.jpg

     

     

  9. Just watched a U-Tube video of 73 build. The owner is using a Heitz (don't know if that is spelled right) pressure regulator tied to his PS system to keep fluid pressure from increasing as engine revs higher.

     

    Paste this to your browser to watch the install ........https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q335MzHhc8A ........

     

    Be advised that there is more going on in this video than PS. Brakes, Clutch, et. You may have to move FF on video to get to PS segment.

     

    Hope this will help.

  10. I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

     

    Thanks

     

    For a c4 or c6 the kickdown rod is only utilized when passing. Or when you jump on the gas in high gear. If you put the car in drive without the kickdown hooked up it will shift normally through the gears.  If you want it to downshift by itself from high gear to 2nd you will need to hook up the kickdown. If you don't mind doing it yourself you can leave it off. It will not hurt the trans. I have never had my hooked up on my car for the past 12 years or so.

     

    Now that you mention it I never used much at all for passing. I think its time to retire the kick down rod and box it up for the next owner....unless my wife buries me in the car when I pass away. Thanks for the feedback.

  11. I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

     

    Thanks

  12. Just for the heck of it, if you're going to run an MSD I would first use FiTech timing control only, then after running for a while, connect the MSD, just to see if there is any noticeable difference. Even though they're not using variable dwell control it may not need it. It's not like points where they have to stay open just because of the cam and required gap, which shortens the dwell time, and they probably already provide maximum dwell time.

    Yes.... once i do it i want to take one step at the time. It won't be until summer.

    I will first rebuild the carb, run it carbed for a little and then go to EFI..... one step at a time. I will keep the carb and original ignition around. That way I would know all is working well in case i want or need to revert.

     

    1971 M-code Mach 1

    That is very smart thinking. I installed my EFI but still have the old carb in the box that the TB came in.....have a great day

  13. The more I read about this system, the more I like it. They claim to use all GM OEM sensors and a Bosch O2 sensor. I would be happier if the warranty was longer than 1 year.

     

    I also wanted to know if this would work with a Mallory Unilite distributor I picked up, recently.

     

    Basstrix, did you ever receive an answer concerning the Malory distributor? That's exactly what I have. Thanks.

     

    I have had a Mallory Unilite distributor on engine for years with Jacobs coil and wiring and yes I just installed a FiTech EFI4 TB. So far during engine break in it has worked together flawlessly. This car is driver and is not for drag racing.

  14. I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

    http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

     

    It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

     

    I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

     

    Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

    http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

     

    Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

    http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

     

    I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

     

    Did you use comp cams hydraulic roller lifters for your build?? if you did, make sure to keep an eye on them and listen for any tapping. I had 3 separate COMP lifters collapse on me this summer. I just pulled ALL of them and sent the whole kit back to comp. Waiting to hear back what they have to say about it. Been a lot of bad press going around the net about their hydraulic roller lifters!!! Good Luck. I have a set of Lunati or Isky lined up for mine.

     

    Thanks for the warning...I'll be on the lookout

  15. I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

    http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

     

    It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

     

    I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

     

    Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

    http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

     

    Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

    http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

     

    I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

  16. As requested I'm placing this post as a new member.

    In late 1971 I got out of service and bought a Mach !. Drove the wheels off of it until the early 80's. (242,000 miles) When the plastic wore off the timing gear and the engine quit I felt she was telling me time for a new engine. Mid 80's that finally happened along with a fresh tranny. After that took it out occasionally but it spent most of the time in garage.

    Fast forward 2014...retired 2015....sold the house and moved out of Bay Area......2016.....pulled engine only this time we did some upgrades....roller cam and valve train....got rid of that 4300 carb and replaced it with EFI.....WERE BACK...Yeah....I'm a little older and a little slower but were back on the road again.

    Kool April Nights just around the corner.

    More Later

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