Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 mustang mach 1


  • Location

micali's Achievements


Explorer (4/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Sorry, I found my answer on the second page. I should of looked a little deeper before posting.
  2. I have a 71 mustang with the gauge cluster with a clock that I want to replace with another factory 71 Guage cluster with a tach. Does anyone know how to make this happen. If there's a thread with this already discussed I missed it. I have it in the shop but the mechanics are not sure how to make it work. Also I need a new fuel guage since mine doesn't work. Where's a good place to get one of these? Thanks.
  3. I have never really heard anything good about the Demon carbs. Especially the early ones. They had a ton of trouble when machining them, not getting them clean of the shavings and getting shavings lodged in the metering blocks. I personally have never owned one...just going by stories I have heard and bench racing with buddies. What carb are you running?
  4. So the guy didn't want to part ways with the Holey 750 after all. I found a Demon 750 for a good price locally, how will it due on this car?
  5. Absolutely the 4300 at 605 CFM was well and truly undersized for a 4V Cleveland. One thought on the reason for such a small carb was so people couldn't over rev the engine as I haven't seen or speaking with those that had these engines from new could not get them to rev past 5800 RPM and 6000 RPM would be absolute maximum and a smaller carb on the engine is cheaper and easier than fitting rev limiters to every car fitted with a 4V engine. The small carb looked after the engine for warranty purposes by allowing it to rev too high, hence why Ford sold so many 780 Holleys for these engines back in the day to those wanting to unleash the potential from a 4V. If the carb wasn't too small on the closed chambered 4V engines, then why did the Ford engineers go for a 4300D rated at 715 CFM on all open chambered 4V engines. The old it's bigger so it's got to use more fuel is just a myth. If the carb meters the fuel better and makes a better mixture, which in turn makes better power across the board with less fuel delivery needed. The 4300 was designed back in the 60's when fuel was cheap and economy wasn't an important factor when purchasing a performance car, whereas modern carbs take not just power, but some sort of economy as well. I have a good friend of mine with a really nice car collection of all makes and engine sizes, the only modified engine is in his Impala which makes just under 600 HP. He swears it's the most economical car out of the lot, a 406 SBC with a modded 850 is more economical than 60's/70's vehicles that are all standard, everything from station wagons to muscle cars to luxury barges that are kept well serviced and looked after better than himself. Since I replaced the valve springs and tuned it, not only does it go heaps better and harder, but the fuel usage is better again. The reason why I only use a dyno as a baseline when the engine is fresh and not as a tuning tool, as a dyno is only as suitable as the conditions at the premises and not where the car actually is being used. Holley carbs are a very basic carb to build and a very straight forward. As long as the throttle shafts aren't worn, then a kit and a can of carby cleaner and compressed air is basically all that's needed to rebuild one. If the shafts are worn either have them bushed or buy a new throttle plate. Unless the carb is cheap or even better free, then buy a new one with warranty, as other problems like a casting fault in the metering block can ruin your day after doing the rebuild. Trust me chased those problems too many times over the years, thank god for billet metering blocks and throttle plates. Thanks for the info. You may have convinced me to go with a Holley.I can get a free 750 holley that will need to be rebuilt .I have a guy that can rebuild it for $100. I just went throrogh my car parts and found a Holley 4160 but thats a 600CFM. I've read were others have went the smaller route and gave done fine. I think the 750 will be the way to go.
  6. So your saying the 4300 was undersized from the factory. So how does going with a larger cfm help fuel economy? I was always told larger CFM means more fuel and that's bad on the wallet. I can get my hands on a 750 holley but I'm not sure what model. Ive been told it will need to be rebuilt. How hard is it to do that?
  7. Which Holley Carb? a Street Avenger is a good start, at least a 670 #80670. Not much. At least a 1/4" insulator for sure to stop heat transfer and maybe top and bottom gaskets if required. There is a Fel-Pro base gasket with a metal insert you will need on a 71 as it has a heat transfer passage and you will need block this off or it will burn the base of your brand new carb. Re-route the fuel line to the right side. You can use good rubber for now till you get it set up. Use Fuel injector line as it is ethanol ruesistant and buy proper fuel line clamps, "T" clamps, not freakin gear clamps that everybody uses!! NO glass fuel filter either. Just make sure everything is tight and rechecked before putting gas to it. Electric choke needs keyed power source, been talked about before. If I forgot anything others will add I sure. Good luck as keep us up on progress. Thanks for the info. I was looking at the 4160 600cfm. What about a kick down adapter? Linkage issues?
  8. Ok, so If I choose a holley what all do I need to put it on the car? Thanks
  9. Anyone heard of the Tomco 3-379 carb? Oriellys has this as a replacement for my FNL car.
  10. So has anyone used the Summit carb? Other than the gas line what would I need to fit the Summit on the 71'? What about the choke? On the factory carb there is a hard line going to it. What do I need to do for the choke.
  11. Good to know where to get those parts. You are right it is not that hard to rebuild a 4300 as long as you follow the instructions........... well at least I'm hoping. I plan on rebuilding my original 4300 at some point just to have it, but not necessarily to use it. Good info. I was told that some bushings were out on some rod and it would need to be sent off to be fixed and that its expensive. I have a guy that can rebuild it for $100 but he doesn't have what's needed to fix thosenparts.
  12. OK, thanks for the info. I say I have a 4300 but could it be a 4300D? The motor is the Cleveland.
  13. My father in law has a 71 mustang and the old autolite 4300 has given up. He doesn't have any intentions of replacing the stock intake. He wants to keep it as original as possible. The car only has 52,000 miles on it and for the most part is factory. We would like to know what would be the best replacement carb that would give him stock performance. I've read about a few carbs like the summit sum-mo8600vs. It sounds like a great carb but I read I will need a carb spacer to make it fit. So if it needs a spacer, will the stock breather still fit? Do I need a kick down adapter? I really don't know much about FORDs so any help will be greatly appreciated. We really want a bolt on and go option if that is possible. What about the autolite 4100?
  14. If you still need a folding rear seat, let me know. I have a couple of them. One has the upper back cushion, the other set has no cushions. How much and what all comes with it?
  • Create New...