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jowens1126

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Everything posted by jowens1126

  1. I found a bit of info on wikipedia about these..... "1971 R-code (Boss 351) The Boss 351 was the most potent high-performance variant of the 351C available only in the 1971 Boss 351 Mustang. Rated at 330 bhp (246 kW), it was fitted with a four-barrel Autolite model 4300-D spreadbore carburetor, an aluminum intake manifold, solid lifters, dual-point distributor, a six-quart oil pan, and cast-aluminum valve covers.[1][13] Forged domed pistons gave an 11.3:1 nominal (11.1:1 advertised) compression ratio which made premium fuel necessary.[12][14] It had four-bolt main bearing caps selected for hardness and a premium cast-iron crankshaft selected for hardness (90% nodularity).[1] The cylinder head was modified for better airflow, used screw-in studs with adjustable rocker arms, and except for the water passages were basically the same heads used on the Boss 302.[3] The valvetrain used hardened and ground push rods with guide plates, and single grove-hardened valve split locks.[1] The forged connecting rods were shot-peened and magnafluxed for strength, and used improved durability 180,000 PSI 3/8-inch nuts and bolts.[1] The R-code Boss 351 Mustang was only installed in the 1971 Boss 351 Mustang, and it came equipped with Ram Air induction. Ford manufactured 1,806 Boss 351 Mustangs in 1971, 591 of which are registered and accounted for on the Boss 351 Registry site.[15] The January 2010 issue of Hot Rod reported a project in which a Boss 351 was assembled to the exact internal specifications of an original motor, but fitted with open, long tube, 1-3/4-inch Hooker headers (vs. the stock cast-iron manifolds), a facility water pump, a 750 Holley Street HP-series carburetor (vs. the stock 715 CFM Autolite unit), and minus the factory air filter assembly, engine accessories, or factory exhaust system. In that mildly modified state, it produced 383 hp (286 kW) gross at 6,100 rpm, and 391 lb·ft (530 N·m) torque (gross) at 4,000 rpm.[16] A measurement of SAE net horsepower would be significantly lower, and represents a more realistic as-installed configuration with all engine accessories, air cleaner assembly, and automobile exhaust system. 1972 R-code (351 HO) The 351C HO "R-code" had a number of changes to help meet emission standards for 1972 compared to the 1971 Boss 351 "R-Code". The camshaft had less duration, but more valve lift, while the mechanical lifters remained unchanged.[1] The forged pistons were changed to flat-top style and the heads to open chamber heads, but retained the same large ports, valves, and adjustable valve train used in 1971.[3] This resulted in a compression ratio decreased to 9.2:1 while the cleaner-burning open-chamber heads helped meet the new emissions regulations.[1] The Ram Air option was no longer available. The engine otherwise remained unchanged from 1971. This engine produced 275 hp (205 kW) using the more realistic SAE net system and was only available in the 1972 Ford Mustang.[3]" Notes: [1] Hammill, Des (Sep 2011). Ford Cleveland. Dorset England: Veloce Publishing. [3] Sessler, Peter (2010). The Ultimate V-8 Engine Data Book (2nd ed.). Minneapolis, MN: Motorbooks International. [12] 1971 Ford Mustang (Sales Brochure ed.). Ford Motor Company. 1970. [13] Traver, David (February 2010). "Last of the Hot Rods - 1973 Ford Mustang". Hemmings. Retrieved 3 June 2014. [14] "351 Cleveland". Boss 351 Registry. Retrieved 3 June 2014. [15] "Welcome to the Boss 351 Registry". Boss 351 Registry. [16] "Muscle Car Engine Shootout - Ford Boss 351 Vs. Chevy LT-1 350". Hot Rod Magazine. [18] Only 398 Ford Mustangs with the 351C HO engine were produced according to production data from Ford
  2. you know it makes you wonder what happened to a car like this. C code, car, probably wrecked. Why would someone let a car that at one time was super nice get to be in such bad shape. I guess I will never understand people. I take care of my vehicles, always have. To let something like this sit outside in a field and rot for years with the windows down is just unforgivable.
  3. Thanks for the great replies. I'm torn at the moment. I don't know if I want to get a finished car or rescue one from the crusher. Most likely I will just find a finished one, but I love starting from scratch. I do need to try and find one with a/c and power brakes at least. That will be worth paying a bit more for. It seems most of what I'm finding is 15-17k for a stripper 302, 20-22k for a well optioned better condition 351 car, and then it jumps to 30-35k for restored, then bumps up to 60k+ for boss models. Maybe I can find a deal at an auction this spring hopefully in the low 20's.
  4. I hope they worked out all the issues for you. Their stuff looks really good. It would suck for them to have such crappy customer service. After rebuilding 3 or 4 cars now, one thing I have learned. When you order parts, take every part out of the box immediately, look it over for damage, accuracy, and check every piece against the packing list and your original order form, and verify all the part numbers on the parts match whats on your order and the packing list. Every SINGLE TIME, I neglected to perform this simple task, there was an issue of some kind. Mistakes happen, hopefully not very often. A vendors true strength lies in how they handle issues. In my book, there is NEVER ANY EXCUSE for poor customer service. I never hesitate to ASK FOR THE OWNER to call me. They are interested in issues like this, and will almost always bend over backwards to insure everyone who dropped the ball gets corrected or removed.
  5. Hi Group, I am NOT new to forums, I am on many. I am currently saving up to get a 71 Mach 1. I have always loved these ugly ducklings since they first came out in the 70's. Now that I am old as dirt, I can finally add one to my stable. I am looking for some information about these cars, as I have ZERO specific knowledge about these vintage Mustangs. I do, However, Know ALOT about OBD1 Fords. I have a 94 Bronco I have rebuilt from ground up and am just about finished with it. So I have a few Questions for those of you who have one of these cars. 1.) What are the major weakness's of this model? 2.) What idiot lights does this car have? 3.) What are the parts availability like in general? Is there anything needed that no one makes. 4.) What does a paint job typically cost if the body is rust free and has a half way decent paint job on it already. 5.) What are the most worthwhile upgrades? Rack & Pinion? Coil Over? 4 Link rear? 6.) Was Power Brakes an Option? Or did they all come with Manual Brakes? 7.) What is a Sport Roof car? Is that without the louvers and wing? So I have spotted a car for sale locally for a fairly reasonable price. Its fully funcitonal, paint is in OK condition. It has a couple of minor trouble spots where the roof was repaired with Lead probably 15-20 years ago and its starting to oxidize under the paint. The engine is a 351C. It originally had a 302, but was swapped at some point. Engine is very clean, no signs of any leaks. It has long tube headers already and glass packs. They look pretty old, but are in decent condition. It drives pretty good, but has manual steering and manual drum brakes, and NO A/C. I am pretty familiar with the brake upgrade, A/C conversion, and Power Steering upgrade, so those arent a problem. It has a C6 transmission. The underside looks pretty nasty, but it is a driver not a show car. Looking at the price of upgrading brakes, A/C, and Power Steering, I am looking at about $3500. I just dont know if this car is worth it. So I am still looking. Maybe I will find one with at least A/C. So my plan is, to just make sure everything works as it is, fix what crops up after driving it a while. Eventually, I would like to blast it or have it dipped, and do a full paint job on it, Rack and Pinion Upgrade, Coil Overs, 4 link Fab9 rear, Coyote Swap, with 6R80 trans. But before I get to that point, I want to live with it like it is for a few years and work on the suspension bit by bit. For the coyote swap, do they make conversion motor mounts that bolt to the stock location? Or do you have to get a new complete front cross member/suspension unit like the Rod and Custom Coil over/rack and pinion kit. If you have to go this route, thats fine, I just dont want to do any other upgrades that I will have to do again later on.
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