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jowens1126

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Everything posted by jowens1126

  1. I sat in the black car. Its pretty nice. The center console is not attached to the floor, but everything else looks to be in good condition. https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0120-397454/1971-ford-mustang-mach-1-fastback/ It will probably bid up to 50 or 60k since its a 429 4 speed. The one to watch is the yellow one for export. It is a superb car. Looks brand new. https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0120-396920/1971-ford-mustang-mach-1-fastback/ it should be interesting to see what it brings. So far prices have been on t he low side. The 2 red 73 cleveland powered cars went for 23k and 26k, 1 73 vert went for 11k and another for 16500. a couple of others got stupid low bids and didnt sell.
  2. One thing we should all consider, is getting a direct powered headlight harness. It makes our 50 year old headlight switch work with hardly any load going thru the switch. The power from the switch only operates a low power relay, and the power comes straight from the battery. You could also just replace the switch, but ford headlight switches have a history of melt downs. Its happened in most every old for I have owned, including twice in my 94 Bronco. All mine use the headlight harness/relay setup now.
  3. Last christmas I got my car a Complete new brake system. Wilwood front discs, converted from manual to power and completely rebuilt the rear drums. As for Next christmas? Well If im really good this year, Maybe santa will bring me a hot 347 stroker and a 4R77W overdrive in an AOD case with vacuum valve body. Or maybe a trip to the paint booth. Either will work for me.
  4. I was 7 years old in 71. These cars immediately caught my eye. I remember everyone complaining about how hideous they were, but I thought they were the coolest thing around. I never changed my mind and I still love them. In High school, the band at school bought one in 1982 and raffled it off to make money to send the band on a trip. I got 3 tickets, but didnt win. I always wanted one since then, and now I have one.
  5. Well its all fixed now. It was just a loose connection. Running fantastic now.
  6. Everything is now working fantastic. Brakes are perfect now. It sure is nice to be able to drive again.
  7. Ok so it's the power wire to the starter. I wonder why they made it black instead of red.
  8. The ground cable is a reproduction of the original so it has the tab that connects at the voltage regulator and a second tab to the block. All connections were cleaned thoroughly. In the pic of the repop cables shown above, where does the other black cable go. I seem to remember 2 black cables in the kit. Is it a separate ground to the starter? If so where does the other end go.
  9. Yes changed both battery cables complete. Battery tested good. I tried jumping the solenoid and still no start. I'm starting to think he knocked something loose under the dash when he was tightening up the brake booster or brake switch.
  10. all the wiring seems to be original and relatively unmolested. There has literally been nothing done that should cause a wiring issue. it ran fine, even while we were working on the brakes. Now that its all fixed, were having hell. I suppose I will go make sure that nothing got pulled loose around the brake booster area.
  11. Car worked fine the other day. Had a low battery so we charged it up overnight. Car started fine. We worked on the brakes for 2 days, then tried to start it and the battery was dead. Checked voltage on the battery and it was at 9 Volts. So I replaced the battery with a new one. Went to start it again, then Nothing. I heard a low volume click from the solenoid/regulator area, then all power was lost. Turn the key off and wait a few seconds and power is restored. Try to start again, same thing, nothing, 1 click all dead. So I replaced the negative battery cable because it was total trash and needed it anyway. Once that was done, same thing, 1 click no start no power. Then I replaced the voltage regulator, same thing. no start 1 click, no power. So what is next? Solenoid? Would it possibly do this if the starter was jammed? I was thinking of tapping it with a hammer and see if that does anything.
  12. I wish I could pull the motor and clean it and repaint the engine bay, but dont have time for that yet.
  13. Finished everything up, went to start it and..... nothing. Tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't charge. Tested voltage on the battery and got 9 volts. Got a new battery. Still nothing but a click then total power failure. I wiggled the ground cable and power was restored. I have known the battery cable was shot since I got the car but have been putting off changing the ground. So old cable out, new one going in. There was so much goo on the connection its amazing it worked at all. Hopefully this will fix the no start.
  14. I think we got it now. Everything bled good. Pedal feels strong. Now just have to put the rest back together and put the tires on and give it a test drive. One question though, The rotors have some rust on them from sitting. Should I wire brush that off?
  15. Its bleeding much better today. The drivers side is completely air free. Passenger side still has a bit of air. I'm going to let it sit for a bit then check all the fittings on that side and try again. It's still much better than it was.
  16. Thanks everyone. Here is what I'm thinking....... Passenger side is solid foam. Drivers side barely has any bubbles. My prop valve has 3 inputs and 3 outputs. I never have issues with the rear, so all is good there. Since the passenger side is so much worse than the driver side, I'm going to start at the prop valve passenger outlet. 1st, I'll remove that fitting and inspect the seat. Then Loosen it up, push pedal so fluid come out, then close it, open it, close it, several times. Then try to bleed it. If it's still foam, I'll go the the passenger side union and do the same thing. And so on till I get to the hose fitting. If that doesn't change anything, I'm getting a new front set of lines and start over.
  17. All the lines and fittings are new. I only use line wrenches where possible. Sometimes theres not enough room. The main lines are stainless. When I did the last bit of line work, I used some copper colored lines that are Nickle-Copper alloy lines. I really like those. Last time I went they were out of those and I had to get a coated carbon steel line to redo one of the master cylinder lines. They are all new. I guess I will have to take it all apart and check each damn seat now. :( I have an Eastwood flare tool. Not the expensive one, but it still works good on everything except the stainless. Alot better than those parts store flare tools.
  18. Everything is new, thats part of my problem. Its hard to tell where to start. If I cant figure it out this week, im going to have to resort to taking it to the shop down the street. I wish there was some kind of dye you could add to the fluid to check for leaks.
  19. Is there a Dye I can put in the master cylinder that I can detect a leak with a black light?
  20. Everything is installed now. We are trying to bleed the system. The back was no problem at all. The front, not so much. I have tightened every connection and I am still getting foam coming out the bleeder on the passenger side. The drivers side is not bad. I get a tiny amount of air on the drivers side, but nothing like the passenger side. I have checked everything and im now suspecting a line isnt seating on the proportional valve even though its TIGHT. I had a couple of leaks on the hose ends, but I think thats taken care of. They wont turn any more without breaking them. This is the outlet side of the prop valve. The bottom one is the drivers side, the top one is the passenger side. The bottom one has an extra long fitting, the top one a short fitting. I would expect the union or the long fittings were leaking but not that I can tell. That side is bleeding ok. I dont see fluid anywhere. Were bleeding it with the car off. When the car is on, its total foam out of the passenger side. Which to me indicates a tiny venturi leak that is sucking in air, but might not leak fluid. Ive been over every fitting several times now and im about ready to give up.
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