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Everything posted by jowens1126

  1. We wrapped up all the installation today. Finally. I got the last 2 lines tight, got the vacuum line hooked up to the booster and the vac tree. My son got the pedal and the brake switch back on. I got the system full of fluid ready to start bleeding. Thats when we lost the daylight. So all thats left is bleeding everything, and looking for leaks.
  2. Also of note, I believe if its a CJ or SCJ you will see CJ or SCJ scratched into the casting in the bell housing area.
  3. Thanks for all the help Don. The fittings that go into the top of that wilwood prop valve are damn near impossible to get a wrench on. I got them as tight as I could but they need more. Now that they are snug, I should be able to move the prop valve a bit or bend the lines a bit so I can get the wrench on them. I will get them tight though, one way or another.
  4. Got it done right at dark. Glad that's over with. Now we can bleed it tomorrow. Booster. Master getting those lines to line up and start on both ends was not an easy task. Then tightening them with less than no room was no fun either. I wish I had the funds to tear it apart and completely restore it. Maybe one day.
  5. Damn David, you are a bundle of cool information as always. I have wondered about the bumper paint. I have seen a couple of pictures of 71-73 Mach 1's with an oddball color with chrome bumpers. I guess now I know why.
  6. Thank you sir! I am going to take off a bit early today so I can at least have an hour or so of daylight when I get home. I have the master ready to install. Then it will be just a matter of bleeding the lines. Hopefully we can get that done and see what we got.
  7. They had the new season of Autobiography on MT last night, and it was all about Ford vs Ferrari. The real story. They even had Matt Damon and Christian Bale on there too. What a terrific story. I never really know about it because I was 1 years old when it happened. Ken Miles really was an amazing Driver, Engineer, and Mechanic. He and Shelby worked tirelessly to tweak the Mk II version of the GT40 till it was perfection. The part I didnt know was that Ken died in a crash at the ford testing facility in California just a couple of months after winning the big race. The GT 40 car used in the film that was driven by Christian Bale will be auctioned off at the Mecum Auto Auction in Kissimmee this January. One of several incredible cars that will be there including the Piston powered land speed record car, and the Steve McQueen Bullit Mustang. Best thing is, I will be there as always. One benefit of living in the Orlando, FL metro area. :)
  8. Pictures or it didnt happen. lol So glad to see you getting back in action.
  9. Thanks again Don. Oh, do you know if that type of master cylinder cap will rust?
  10. looking at my bracket, It looks like theres only 1 hole, so I think that answers that part at least.
  11. Thanks for the quick response Don! Your awesome as usual. Heres another questions for you. Looking thru the brake booster instructions, Found this diagram about the pedal. I dont know if this is accurate for a 71 though. In a 71 I think it goes in the same hole as the manual drum pedal. If im wrong let me know. Another question is, how do I adjust the rod on the brake booster that engages the master? Do I adjust it so theres the rod contacts the plunger in the master when the pedal is at rest? looking at the above diagram, setting the rod length on the booster to 24mm past the mounting position should put the rod in full engagement. Heres a pic of the booster rod adjustment.
  12. I went ahead and bench bled the master cylinder tonight. I have a question. On my drum car, the rear chamber was for the front circuit and the front chamber was for the rear. I have a disc master like this.... And I was wondering if its still the same way, front for rear, rear for front.
  13. We got the booster in today! The whole problem was the brake lines aren't secured to the firewall and were in the way. I feel stupid now because my son said that was the problem. We couldn't get the clips to stay on. They fell off going down the road, so I need to order some new clips and drill new holes for the screws. Now I need to pick up new master cylinder lines because they are different. Then bench bleed the master at work tomorrow. Then we should have brakes!.
  14. I think we will be fine now. A bit of grinding gave some more clearance. I'm going to ditch the booster gasket and use permatex. The big issue is the bracket is about 1/16-1/8" from the firewall. The built in nut on the bracket that was drilled out left 1/4" ring around each hole. We had to grind it down flush. I should be able to get the top studs to grab a thread, then that will pull the bracket back flush with the firewall and allow the bottom bolts to catch a thread to get them started. It's just very difficult to get in there to grind those holes flush. Theres no room down there.
  15. At least you found something. How far are you tearing it down?
  16. We tried just trimming out the plate between the booster bracket and the firewall but we ran in to this.... As you can see the bolts on the booster are not long enough with the 2 spacer plates. So were trying to cut away the rubber insulation in order to access the spacer plates. I think the one i labeled spacer 2 is a shim of some sort. The other one is the block off plate for the manual booster. They are both rusted in place. If we can cut out and remove the rubber insulation, then we should be able to have access to pull the spacer shim and block off plate out. There is also a fairly thick paper gasket I made for the engine side of the booster. I may have to remove that and use a bit of silicone. It would be simple to remove if I could get the bracket out, but im not going to disassemble all that shit unless its absolutely necessary. Any Ideas?
  17. I think a cheaper and much easier option would be to modify the seat location or the seat slider. You can go about this in several ways. You could cut out the seat pan and move it back a bit. You could get a seat track set with a much longer travel range and cut and weld it into the original seat track mounts. You could also fabricate the seat tracks to be a little lower if you need to. This will reduce the back seat leg room, but who the hell rides in the back of these cars anyway. This would require some decent fabrication skills as well as all the welding and cutting equipment, so it might be something to have a shop do. They will ream you on price, but it will still be cheaper than buying all the equipment you need to do this, not to mention all the time spent developing your skill level.
  18. I was tied up all weekend but we did manage to get a couple of things done. We got the old pedal out, drilled out the bracket and sawzalled the cover plate. Then we test fitted the booster then ran out of daylight. Hopefully we can get the booster bolted on and the pedal hooked back up tonight. I need to bring the master cylinder up here to work so I can bench bleed it. Then it will be ready to bolt in. Should be on the road this weekend. :)
  19. we looked at it all yesterday evening in the dark, and I think we have decided to just sawzall the plate out and drill out the bracket and swap pedals in place. So my son is going to work on that a little today hopefully. then im hoping we can finish up this weekend.
  20. I'll be back on it this weekend, maybe I can make some progress. I'm wondering if I can get that plate out without removing the bracket. If not, I think were gonna try unbolting the steering column and dropping it down to access the bolt that holds the pedal bracket on. I would prefer to remove it so I can blast and paint it while its out.
  21. @hemikiller Well, I still need to remove the cover plate that covers the hole where the booster goes thru. I suppose I could break out the sawzall and just hack the hole bigger.
  22. ok, I was looking thru some other pictures and I think I have found the problem. It looks like the rearward part of the bracket is bolted in to the dash. Im going to have to get some better pictures of that area and see what else I need to do. I hope its not going to be impossible to get to without removing the steering column.
  23. We finally got the master off and the 2 studs off that hold the brake pedal bracket on. One stud came off with the lock nut that was on it. The other stud wasnt so lucky. The nut came off leaving the stud in place. I ended up having to get 2 skinny nuts and tighten them against each other and back it out with a wrench on the inside nut. Once it broke free it came right out without any trouble. It should be free, but its completely stuck in place like its still bolted. I hit the side of the pedal a few times with the hammer and nothing moved at all. Im pretty sure there is nothing else holding it on. I suppose my next course of action is to get a pry bar up under the edge of the bracket and try to break it loose. Once that is off, I will drill out the firewall holes and the holes on the brake pedal bracket to 7/16". Then the new booster studs will go right on thru the firewall and the pedal bracket and I can bolt it all back in place. I need to remove that cover plate as well. I should be able to use it as a template for my Booster firewall gasket..
  24. I'm doing this project this weekend. I suppose what I will do is cut the main gasket, then cut pieces to fit that space till its 1 layer thicker than the space. Then glue them to the main gasket and it shouldnt leak, as long as all the gasket gets compressed after the bolts are tight. It might still be a good idea to coat that area with POR15 to prevent rust.
  25. There are no line clearance issues at all. With the calipers mounted on the front side of the rotor, both ends of the caliper line are in front of all the suspension. Forgive my bent up lines, but it was unavoidable. I am going to replace them with disc lines eventually.
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