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About TheJ

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    73 Mach 1 Mustang (project)
    93 Dodge Shadow (daily)
    86 Buick Regal (2nd project)


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  1. FWIW, I meant a 295/50, not 295/60. I have to say, I'm totally stumped now. 3.5" back spacing is a common offset for a lot of wider old school rims. A 8.5" wide rim will measure about 9.5" wide from the edge of the lip to the edge of the lip. You said your plumb bob flange to front measurement was 5.5" and your flange to back measurement was 5". I assumed that was tire bulge to tire bulge since those added together is 10.5" and a 245/60 like you said you had mounted on there has a section width (widest part of the tire bulge) of 9.64" and that can get a little wider or narrower depending on the wheel you mount that on. If that's from the wheel lip to mounting flange that would add up to a 9.5" wide tire with 5" BS. EITHER measurement works out to a 1/2" (-13mm) offset which is way different then the -32mm that you measured with a straight edge across the back - the 2 measurements are off of each other by .79" by offset and 1.5" by backspacing. I'm not sure what to do to reconcile the difference, I'm tempted to say that one of your measurements is just wrong (or I'm misunderstanding what you wrote), and without more information I'd pick the plumb bob measurement since nothing about your combination should measure 10.5" (the wheel should measure about 9.5" and the tire bulge should measure about 9.6-9.7"). OTOH, knowing that 0 offset is common for the magnum 500's and we have a pretty good idea what they look like with tires in this size range, I honestly have a hard time believing the -32mm/3.5" BS measurement since that would put the tires >1-1/4" further out than the same tires on magnum 500's. Huh... maybe but that's a lot of difference... Sorry for the confusion but the plumb bob was used to measure the fender clearance on the car or essentially maximum frontspacing. With the 5" of maximum frontspacing in the rear of the car the wheel lip is almost perfectly plumb with the fender lip. This would mean the wheel would have 5" of frontspacing or 3.5" of backspacing which converts to a -32mm offset. By the way, the wheels you modified look pretty sweet.
  2. My plumb bob measurements were from the mounting flanges to the edge of the wheel well lip to give me my outside clearances. As for the backspacing measurements, I used a straightedge on the back of the wheels and measured to the mounting surface giving me 3.5" or -32mm offset. To get a similar look on the outside but with a 295/50/r15 tire (295/60/r15 would be a much taller tire) you would need a wheel with a -6mm offset. I hope this helps.
  3. I'm running ported and polished 2v heads that I got from turtle5353. After some thought and realization, I'm just going to stick with the stock bottom end, bump the compression to around 9.5:1 and probably run a roller cam. That should reach my power goals. Thanks guys for the info and putting up with my crazy ideas. With that being said should I consider slotted cam bearings to restrict the flow?
  4. I would like to rev it out to 7500rpm regularly, though that's probably not plausible. I don't really care about fuel mileage and its only really going to driven on nice weather days. I don't really know if an FMX can rev that high and I might swap to a hydroboost power brake setup if I don't have enough vacuum to run stock power brakes. I'm sorry if my expectations are high I'm just trying to get as much info so I can decide what to do.
  5. I didn't see any oil mod videos from them. Do you have a link to one? I did hear back from the machine shop. They said that they would recommend a .030 overbore because there was some scoring likely from the poor lubrication (gas/water/oil mix). Also they said they can polish the crank but that might cause too much clearance and I might want to go .010 under. What are your guys' opinion on the crank situation? Would it be better to go with a forged crank or is the stock on ok? After giving it some thought I kind of want a higher revving motor, I know that's not very adventitious with the 2V heads but there's something about a high revving Cleveland. With that said I'm looking at different camshafts do you have any suggestions for them? I really appreciate your guys' info, it really helps me for when I go discuss the build with the machine shop. Thanks,
  6. I got the motor tore down last night and didn't see any major damage. There was some light scoring on some main and rod bearings but I didn't see any major damage to the crank. I brought the block, crank and pistons to the machine shop to get cleaned, magged and measured. A couple of you suggested some oiling mods, can you guys explain those for me a little bit because I'm not sure why you want to restrict the cam bearings. Thanks again for the info.
  7. Small update: I got the motor out and on the stand yesterday. I'm going to tear it down during the week and hopefully get it to the machine shop by the end of the week.
  8. Thanks for the info guys. I should clarify a few things, everything that I listed I already have and got for a good price. The heads were reworked with 1 piece valves, guides, seats, ported, milled, drilled and tapped for screw in studs and roller rockers by Turtle5353 and I got the intake from him as well. I picked up the cam from my machine shop for cheap because someone ordered it and never came and got it. The FMX transmission was upgraded with heavy duty parts and I plan on swapping the rear axle with an 8.8 with a LSD and 3.73 gears. As for pistons, I don't suppose the Cleveland and Windsor pistons are interchangeable. I guess I have a lot of decisions to make and hopefully when I tear the motor down it will help clear some of them up. I'll have to look into the pantera mod for the thermostat. I haven't heard of that.
  9. Hey fellas (and gals), its been far too long since I've posted. I've finally started working on my mustang again after 2 or 3 years of not doing anything to it. So, I figured that doing the cam and head swap should be a nice little project to get me motivated to work on it more... About that, I took the intake off and noticed a nice gas aroma from the oil. After draining the oil I found out that gas had been getting into the oil along with some water and some shiny metal. I had been contemplating pulling the motor but now I guess it made that decision easier for me. I should have the motor out and torn down this weekend. I'm looking for around 400(ish)HP so here's my plan for the motor: -Ported and polished 2V open chamber heads (they're not ideal but should work) -Comp Cams XE262H 218/224 @ .050 lift http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-s...d=847&sb=2 -Harland Sharp 1.73 ratio roller rockers -Edelbrock Performer intake -Holley street avenger 770cfm carb (I know this is kind of large for my application but I got it cheap so I'll try it out) -undecided on pistons (Forged vs Hyper) -undecided on the ignition system With all that being said I have a couple of questions for you guys about the build up of my 351C: Is there anything I should look at upgrading while I have the motor out to get rebuilt? Do you have any suggestions for what pistons and ignition system to run? Is it worth going with ARP head studs, main bearing studs and rod bolts? motor in its current state: Sorry, for the long post and thanks for looking.
  10. I agree with Doc, I find it really cool and I think our body style lends itself quite well to this apocalypse style. I've always thought that a 71-73 mustang would look cool as an old school rally car and this car kind of shows that.
  11. I don't know if this has been posted already but there is a 71 or 72 mustang in this PSA, its kinda long but you can skip to the 4:10 mark for the good bits [video=youtube] Here's episode 2, the mustang is shown earlier in this one [video=youtube]
  12. I thought I heard Hammond say that he hopes the welds hold, so I would assume they welded the tie-rod back together.
  13. We'll probably have to wait a little bit and watch it on BBC America or buy it when it's released on Amazon.
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