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Everything posted by kfairmont

  1. SOLD! Realized I had this my ad info in the wrong section. Here are the details and info. Here are some pics on the CL ad. Links to videos can be found below. car is located in Houston, TX http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/4556145956.html 351 Cleveland Bored +0.030" Oil restrictors installed in mains Diamond Racing forged flat top pistons Eagle H beam rods 4V closed chamber heads Heads machined for studs and guide plates Manley stainless intake and exhaust valves Comp dual springs and retainers Comp hardened pushrods Comp roller rockers Comp 292hr hydraulic roller cam and lifters Hooker ceramic coated headers Flow master mufflers with x-pipe and cutouts Weiand intake Holley 750dp MSD pro billet Distributer MSD 6AL ignition box with adjustable rev limiter 4 speed top loader Hurst shifter new Ram clutch Reserfaced Ram billet flywheel Hi torque mini starter Ford 9" rear end 3.20 gear Locker rear end 31 spline axles Tinman subframe connectors Willwood brakes 6 piston calipers front with 4 piston calipers rear Late model master cylinder Willwood proportioning valve Interior in excellent shape with no tears Dash pad in excellent condition Heat and sound deadening barrier under carpet Defrost only no heat or air conditioning Kenwood CD/Bluetooth Audio with 6 speakers and 10" sub. Two amplifiers Alpine 75w x 4 channel and Total Audio 360w for sub. Boss Motorsport Wheels 20 X 10 back with 275 35r 20 20 X 8.5front with 275 30r 20 The underside of the car was completely restored and painted. It's an older paint job with some nicks and scratches. Good "10 footer" Not perfect but looks good and still shines. Recently updated the grill and just had front bumper painted to match car color. Here are a couple walk around videos:. Please contact me with any additional questions
  2. Here's a link to the latest ad with pics and couple new videos. $20,000 obo http://www.ebay.com/itm/191238648667?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Feel free to call or email with any questions.
  3. I added a little video clip [video=youtube]
  4. URL: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=191213968621&alt=web
  5. I have 3.25s now in mine and want a set of 3.73s. If you think that's what you have would you be interested in a trade?
  6. No Sorry, I didn't snap any pictures of the front installation. Was not too much to it. I used kit number 140-12945. I had disk spindles and had to drill out and re-tap the three bolt holes that attached the dust cover. That is how the caliper bracket mounts to the spindle with the Wilwood kit. If you have drum spindles, the brackets simply use a different set of pre drilled holes. Other than a little massaging of the bracket to line up with the bolts, it all went together nicely. They perform good and look good. Well worth the effort now that it's all done.
  7. I ran a 750dp with out stepping up to the bigger 50cc acc pump. This was a race car mind you but never had a problem getting up on the converter. Not sure about the pump cam and squirters. I believe I used 76 jets with a 3.5 power valve in the front and 86s in the rear. Here's a startup video. Also here's a good thread to read about the oiling mod. http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/message/1207711411/Here+is+what+I+did+to+mine
  8. Hey Jeff, good luck with the new powerplant. The restrictor kit is all I've ever used for oiling mods and have had good luck so far. With the last two clevelands I've built (one being an iron headed 408 very similar to yours) I also put a restrictor in the #1 main above the oil crossiver passage, right below the #1 cam bearing. The moroso kit does not supply enough restrictors to put one there as well. You Without this restrictor, if the #1 cam bearing if not installed perfectlyit can bleed out a lot of oil. might want to talk with your engine builder about this. I also know that TMyer sells special cam bearings that precludes the use of restrictors. http://www.tmeyerinc.com/exclusiveproducts.html
  9. Yes I've been driving it every chance I can get. Since then I also did the fronts as well with 12" diameter rotors and 6 piston calipers. The car stops quick and the pedal feels good and solid. I'm not sure about the vacuum as I have never put a gauge on it. It's a good sized comp cam (292HR) so I'm sure I'd benefit from a vacuum canister. The front install was not bad at all. The most difficult/time consuming part was enlarging and tapping the three bolts for the caliper mounting bracket. I had disk spindles. Very happy with how it all turned out.
  10. OK mine were also correctly installed and bleeding with caliper oriented with the bleed screw at the very top solved my issue. Actually now that I think about it, I first compressed the caliper piston with the bleeder open to take up some vacant space before bleeding. After I did that to both fronts it was a night and day difference.
  11. When I still had the original disks up front, I had a similar issue with a very soft initial pedal that firmed up after several pumps. Definitely air in the lines somewhere. I took each front caliper off the rotor and bled again with the bleeder screw pointing straight up. Do one side at a time and hold the piston with your c clamp. Took out lots of air and now pedal is solid. After reading this thread perhaps my calipers were also on the wrong side.
  12. Thanks, the paint is really a "10 footer" as there are some issues in several places. It was originally yellow and the prior owner had it painted many years ago. I buffed/polished it to a decent shine though. Those rims are 20x8.5 front and 20x10 rear. Boss 338s. The last thing I'd like to do for the drivetrain is change out the rear gears. It's got 3.25s in there now and whle it's decent on the freeway, 3.70s would wake it up.
  13. After being down for almost a year, I finally got her back on the road. Freshened up the motor, new flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, new brake lines throughout, master cylinder and wilwood disks front and rear. Cleaned a repainted the whole underside. Backspacing on the front rim didn't allow the center cap to work with the Wilwood hub. I think it looks good this way. That old serpentine pulley that was on the car was all wrong, so I went back to a v-belt setup with CVF brackets and pulleys. Tuff stuff saginaw PS pump and polished alternator. I was impressed with the CVF stuff nice product.
  14. The brake kit was 140-9282 for small bearing ford with 2.5" offset and parking brake was 330-9371. I just ordered it through a local Mustang supplier. They had another shipment comming in so I was able to save a little on shipping otherwise no great bargian.
  15. I hear you, with the wilwood calipers, the pads come up and out without having to remove the caliper. Only held in place with a single cotter pin. Would likely still have to remove to compress the pistons though. That block does the job but I'm going to come up with something better. Was thinking about replacing it with a sleeve using several set-screws to better hold/align the cables together. My axles are 31 spline with (i beleive) 1/2" studs. They were on the car when I got it but I think they are from Superior. The rotors would otherwise be fine without drilling except the shoulder of the stud comes through the axle flange a bit and didn't allow the rotor to sit flat like it should.
  16. My research tells me the MC bore size is exactly the same on those 2wd vehicles pre and post '95 - 0.938". The 4wd models had a slightly larger bore of 0.975". I originally thought they were 1". Is there something else I didn't consider? The pedal feels good. Will know more when I get out on the road.
  17. Hi All, just finished upgrading rear drums to the wilwood 12" Dynalite kit with internal parking brake. was a very simple install. The only two issues I ran into were having to drill out the lug holes to fit the rotor and the id of the rotor centering rings did not fit my a 31 spline axles. After talking with Wilwood, they said the rings were not necessary if the rotor was securely centered on the studs which was the case. I also ordered the universal parking brake kit and was able to instalusing the factory brackets and pull. I just shortened the cable cover to the mounting bracket and secured the bare cable ends together using the block provided. Works like a charm. I decided not to use the flex lines and just ran the factory hard lines right to the caliper. I will likely never drive this thing enough to wear out a set of rear pads Finally, I used a master cylinder from a 93 explorer, $40 brand new. It's got a 1" bore and pedal feels good. Only needed to get a couple adapter fittings for the hard line as they are 10 and 12 mm off the MC. Scrapped the proportioning valve and installed the adjustable valve in the rear line. Still have factory disks in front for now. Will likely upgrade those soon. Need to get out on a road test still. New motor is in the car and waiting on the pulley setup.
  18. Mine has 20x10 rear with 275 35R and 20x8 in the front with 275 30R. As been said the rear is no problem. The front was too low initially and did rub with hard left turns. After raising up less than 1" the rubbing was not a problem. If these were not on the car already I would have probably gone with 18s in the front.
  19. Glad to help! Feel free to blame me for other goodies if you can get away with it :) Look forward to seeing yours all mounted up.
  20. I 've ben having trouble with bad clutch chatter coming out of first gear. I was crawling around under the car, assessing how much of a PITA is would be to remove the trans and happened to grab the equalizer bar. To my suprize the bar was quite loose and upon removal found the frame side bushing was non-existent. I promptly ordered new bushings for both ends and installed the other night. Well chatter problem is now completely gone! To help improve the life of the bushings I put a grease fitting right in the z-bar to keep everything well lubed. The car is much more enjoyable to drive.
  21. Aren't the March pumps just a saginaw style with a fancy reservoir?
  22. Are you running a PCV valve or other type of crankcase evac system? Excessive pressure can push oil past the valve seals as well. Pull the carb and look in all the ports for oil residue. If all is clean there, the intake is likely sealed properly. Next, I'd pull a valve cover and try to visually inspect the valve seals. If you can, fill cylinder with compressed air and pop a retainer off to get a good look at the seal and underside of the retainer.
  23. I used raammat on my 72 and found it easy to work with and good value. Also wanted to stay away from tar based products. For best results also get the ensolite closed cell foam as well. The foam blocks out more noise than the raammat alone. Dont need any special rollers for installation. Just wear gloves and ot can be worked in by hand.
  24. x2 Take a look as the spark plugs. The oil support ring should not be an issue.
  25. Thanks for the reply. I got the new pump installed and what a difference. I can now turn lock to lock with a finger at idle. I have a serpentine setup. Anyone recognize these brackets? Only two of the three mounting holes on the brackets line up with the head but it works well.
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