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Everything posted by JSOK

  1. I have a kick down lever and shift linkage for an FMX - not sure if it would fit a C6.
  2. Automatic shifter from 71 Mach 1. New bushing and rubber strip that fits between the shifter. I have the linkage for an FMX, if you need that. Works fine. I switched to a 5 speed. $175 plus shipping from 77479. Thanks
  3. Used 2 bbl carb, Came off of my 71 Mach 1. Appears to be in good condition. I never used it, so can't say how well it worked. $50 plus shipping from 77479. Thanks, Jeff
  4. Tom,  I have 2 bell housings.  I'll take pics and let you decide if you want either.   Should have the pics some time tomorrow.  I'll estimate shipping and let you know what I find.  

    1. vintageman


      Thanks JSOK, I appreciate it. 



  5. I usually just read on this forum, but thought I would share recent results from my 393C build. Specs: Scat 3.85" crank bored .30" over SRP Pistons Isky roller cam: 218/228, LSA 112 Isky hydraulic roller lifters Trickflow 195 heads 72cc chambers, 1.55" springs Edlebrock Air Gap Intake Sanderson FC4 shorty headers Holley Street Avenger Ultra 770 - elec choke, vacuum secondaries DUI distributor 10.6:1 compression Peak torque was 499 ft lbs @ 4200 rpm. Peak HP was 501 hp @ 6300 rpm. 10 deg advance with vacuum. Not bad from a relatively mild cam. The engine will go back into a 71 Mach 1, with an FMX auto. Quick Performance Posi 3.5:1 gears, 31 spline axles I chose the parts based on what I learned here, and from posts/publications from George Pence, George Reid, 7173 Forum and others. Assembly and dyno was performed by Westside Performance in Houston. I'll try to post more pics and a video if I can trim it to the upload limit. FYI 393c dyno
  6. I have OE - used, steel (?) fuel line (tank to engine bay) and return line (engine to tank). I probably have the line from the mechanical fuel pump to carb, but would have to search for it. Good condition, no dents. Assuming they'll fit a 72 or 73 also. i replaced with an intank fuel pump (which was a major pain) and rubber hose for feed and return. I can't/wont ship, so you'll need to pick up. I live in SW Houston, TX. Thanks
  7. Never mind. I was able to get it working. I pulled the harness apart, cleaned all contacts. Pulled all the fuses and cleaned those contacts, and replaced all fuses. Since I changed several variables at once, I don't know exactly what the problem was. If I had to guess, the fuse contacts were pretty crusty from sitting for 25+ years in a garage. The dome light and instrument panel lights are now working. Thanks anyway.
  8. I'm restoring a 71 Mach 1. I removed the engine and interior. I am in the process of reinstalling the original wire harness, front dash, heat/ac box, gauges, etc. I have most of the lights working - head lights, tail lights, side markers, speedo/clock cluster lights, and radio all work. The dome light and instrument gauge lights on the center console don't work. I've replaced the head light switch and the turn signal switch in the steering column. For the dome light, there is no power at the light, or at the door switches. The fuse is good. What else can I look for? Is it possible that the problem is in the main harness connection? I added a photo before I stripped it down - no relevance to the dome light issue.
  9. Are the original AC hoses compatible with 134A refrigerant?
  10. I just went through the same issue. I ended up buying the rebuild video from Bad Shoe Productions and an FMX rebuild kit. The video was about $40. (an excellent product). The kit was about $100. I paid a local tranny shop $20 to reinstall a piston seal. I have not reinstalled the rebuilt FMX yet, so i can't comment on how it works. Rebuilding is not difficult. You just need to be organized and pay close attention to details when working on the valve bodies to make sure you get everything back in the same way it came out. After all of my research, If I had an AOD, I would do the swap - since nobody seems to regret upgrading to an AOD (or a manual). If you decide to rebuild yourself, I have a homemade spring compressor you can borrow (i'm on the SW side of Houston). Good luck.
  11. https://houston.craigslist.org/wto/6722295247.html I have a set listed on CL. They're about 1.25" tall at the edges. Came off a 71 Mach 1. Thanks
  12. http://www.mustangandfords.com/project-vehicles/1509-project-large-marge-new-fuel-tank-pump-on-1973-mustang/ The Youtube video in the link is helpful for 71-73 owners interested in installing an in-tank electric fuel pump. FYI
  13. I received some helpful feedback from a 7173 community member, so I'm editing this to "USED"., and changing the price to "shoot me your best offer". This bumper came unattached, with the car (71 Mach 1) I purchased last year. The car was wrecked circa 1980. The prior owner started buying parts to rebuild, and he bought the urethane bumper as a replacement. The car was never repaired and it sat in a garage until I bought it last year. The bumper fascia is in great shape, ready for paint. The back side looks a little rough, but I think that's due to 70's era tooling. Before I list it elsewhere, I wanted to see if there was any interest here.
  14. To confirm your question, yes, the new collar is shaped different, but does fit properly. I just replaced the old with Timken bearings/collar. I had a shop remove the old and press on the new bearing/collar. As an aside, now that I did that, I'm selling the 28 spline axle with new bearings in lieu of 31 spline axles.
  15. The pics compare new and old springs and leafs. The old leafs/springs are from my 71 Mach 1. They had about 98k miles and were on the car until 2018. The new leafs are 4.5 leaf standard eye. The springs are the "1" lower Grab a Trak" variety. I haven't installed them yet, so can't comment on the stance they'll provide. FYI
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