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    1973 Coupe 351 Cleveland AOD


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  1. So when key is off, needle is on E. When key is on, needle is way past F. Turn key off, goes back to E. Pull connector, needle is on E. I read resistance from sending unit (aftermarket put in a couple of years ago) and it reads 9.8 ohms. I assume I have about 3/4 of a tank currently. Thanks for the reply.
  2. So it's been a few weeks since I drove my 73 coupe. I filled the tank before I parked it, and fuel gauge needle was on "F". This morning on start, needle on fuel gauge was as far right as possible, way beyond the "F". Any ideas of where to start? Thanks, jack
  3. Thanks. I found the washer on ebay. I'll give it a shot. Anybody got a picture of exactly where it goes?
  4. The previous owner of my 1973 coupe installed remote racing style side mirrors. The driver side glass fell out and shattered and the passenger side mirror glass is loose. I have two new mirrors, however, the way the previous owner installed the driver side mirror is to just cut the cables. If possible, I would like to install the knob in the door panel to make the mirror functional. Any thoughts? Is it as simple as cutting a hole in the standard door panel? Thanks in advance.
  5. Changed wheel cylinder, no joy. Took drum off and watched brakes as wife pushed brake pedal - shoes were hanging up, not returning. Bought new shoes. Found deep gouge in one of the three contact points on backing plate. Polished all of them, greased em up, put on new shoes and problem is gone. Not sure what exactly fixed it, but it's fixed. Thanks to all who helped me on this. My car would not run without you !
  6. Took car to brake shop. They said all was well. Turned out of round drums (brand new) and bled air from front brakes. Drove it home. Driver side fine. Passenger side hot as heck. Drum untouchable. Wheel very hot. Could wheel cylinder (brand new) be sticking or something ?
  7. Should have mentioned that I thought bearings first, so I replaced them with new Timkins. Also replaced seals while I was in there. Parking brake is not on, but when I was messing with it yesterday with rear end off the ground I discovered that if I put the parking brake on the drivers side wheel locks but the passenger side spins freely. Not good, but probably unrelated to problem as both sides heat up. Again, drums slide off very easily, no binding possible when sitting still. Can't imagine what, but almost like something changes once car gets rolling. Very confused. Thanks for the help ! PS Wheel Cylinders are new as well.
  8. Have standard 9 inch rear end, small bearings. Put new shoes, hardware, and drums on. Wheels spin freely. Drums come off easily. No binding. After 20 mile drive, backing plates are so hot you will blister your hand if you touch them. Aluminum wheels are actually getting hot. No evidence of binding or shoes rubbing when car is sitting still. Rolls easily. Will coast down slightly inclined driveway if in neutral. Please help. Unsafe to drive at present.
  9. So I tested all wires terminating at circuit board connector and got required power. I tested the printed circuit board and got continuity where it should have been. I used a 9 volt battery and tested all the bulbs. All good. Then I put the bulbs in the sockets and no joy. Turns out the sockets were bad. A smarter guy may have checked this first. Everything works now. Thank you all for the help. If not for y'all, my car would never run.
  10. The Flasher used for LED conversions is only really needed when converting ALL bulbs, that is Front and rear parking/signal bulbs and dash. This is because LED bulbs don't draw much current and therefore the standard flasher is not triggered by the low current draw of the LEDs. Even the newer more current sensitive electronic style flasher will have the same problem if you don't have enough LED bulbs on a given circuit to draw enough current. I learned this because I once tried bench testing an LED flasher with just two LEDS and it did not work. I added a standard bulb to the circuit with the two LEDs to increase the current draw and they all started flashing. If you are using standard front and rear signal bulbs with LED dash signal bulbs, then the old standard flasher should still work. Make sure you have the polarity correct on the LED bulbs, otherwise they will not work. You can buy bi-polar/non-polar? (not sure what they call them) LED bulbs from www.HiPoParts.com, so you don't have to worry about getting them all in the same + - way. Agreed. I did say I'm not an expert!! But you're correct, The LED flasher is definitely needed when replacing ALL the bulbs. Re-reading the above, I realized I did not mention that when the dash turn signal LED's did not work, it was before I upgraded to Hi-Po Parts Elite series II SMD's. Not sure why and yes the polarity was correct. My mistake if that was misleading. One more thing on the LED flasher, it too is polarity sensitive and must be grounded. On my Mach, the plug for the turn signal flasher was wired incorrectly at the factory. That of course did not matter with a standard flasher. I made up short jumper wires as the terminal pins refused to come out, I don't have a suitable tool for that. A reminder to anyone else upgrading dash lights to LED's. IF your car has idiot lights, the ALTERNATOR bulb MUST remain an incandescent 194 bulb. Thanks rackerm for correcting and clarifying my post. Geoff.
  11. Alas, guys like me get screwed a lot this way. I try to do my research, but..... In any case, given the printed circuit is new, and designed for a tach cluster, i assume it should all work, except for the speedo "light", which won't do anything.
  12. Thank you. Finally an explanation that makes sense.
  13. Thanks All. Finally some clarity. I bought the cluster off of ebay. I bought a new printed circuit, and replaced all the bulbs with LEDs. Everything seems to work , but neither the bright beam indicator nor the turn signal indicators work, although the bright beams come on and the turn signals work. Hopefully now I can figure this out. Thanks again. Jack
  14. There are three lights on my dash cluster. I have labeled them 1,2,3. I assume 1 (bottom of tach) is brake warning light. Either 2 (on top of tach) or 3 (bottom of speedo) is bright lights ? The remaining light is ???? Thanks as always for any help you can provide.
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