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shellbuyer

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Convertible Mustang

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  • Location
    PEI Canada

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  1. Thanks, I was able to remove it after I took the console out, it just pulled straight down....
  2. Hi there, I am trying to take out my center bezel (with the radio and heater control in) I have taken out all the screws I can see but still cant get the darn bezel out, it seems as if it is hooking on the dash pad? Anybody have a suggestion? Thanks for now. I am painting my interior bezel pieces, I have the one around the console with the clock done, I think it turned out nice! I will post a picture later on when I am done!!
  3. I am running 10W30 Quaker state That thin oil explanation seems quite probable! Thank you
  4. Hi there again! Any thoughts why when I start my 351C when it is hot, there is a ticking noise sounds like it is from lifters for about 3-5 seconds until everything quiets down? It doesnt do it cold, only when hot,
  5. I used my original PCV on passenger side, plumbed to carb. and then plumbed oil breather cap to air cleaner base. I even made a linkage extension yesterday for my kick-down rod! I was on a roll. Now hopefully all is as it should be...
  6. I have nice Ford racing valve covers on my 351 C. after my rebuild, here is my latest query. On the passenger side rear valve cover there is a plastic elbow that was on the original valve covers I took off, so I plumbed that to my breather. Now on the front drivers side, there is a nice Ford racing cap that has a hose attachment which I plumbed to carb where PCV hose is supposed to be. The only issue is with the Ford racing cap there is no provision for a PCV? Does this matter? or will it hurt anything not having a PCV? The old oil filler cap had one in it.
  7. Well guys, I have buffed and waxed boats before without going through gelcoat,so I am going for it, I have this 3m stuff in the 4 litre container that is fairly agressive, so I will start with wet 1200 and then use the 3M compound and then wax with buffer. I am going to try, the worst I can do is ruin the paint job, which as it stands now doesn t look great anyways! Thanks for the tip about cutting through the edges, (not many of those on a boat) I see what you mean, they will cut through faster. I am going to use a block wherever I can. I think this paint job was done before the car was stored 10 -15 years ago, so the clear should be set hard ::(
  8. Hello all; My 1973 Vert was painted prior to my buying it. I think it is a great looking color. albeit not original, I like it anyway! It is areddish brown metallic with what looks to be lots of clear coat. The problem is it is all orange peely and just doesnt look so good. I want to get it painted the original red maybe next year when finances permit. I took it to a body man and he said"all that is wrong with that paint is that it was never compounded or wet sanded". He then instructed me how to wet sand and compound, saying I would have a hard time wearing through that much clear with 500 wet paper, as that was my concern. My intent is to wet sand with 500, then buff with mechanical buffer then wax. Has anybody got any tips for me? Or do you think this will paint look shiny?
  9. Hi there, does anybody else have issues with very dim interior guage lights? I can barely tell the lights are on. Thanks for the help!
  10. Hi there, I am running my electronic HEI 14 degrees before TDC on my 73 351 C. Where does everyone else run there timing at? 14 seems to be where it likes to run. Will it do any damage to engine running at 14? I THINK it is supposed to be at 10?
  11. Yes, I had to change the balancer on the front of the crank upon close inspection, apparantly I ruined it by using the wrong puller to remove it during the rebuild(live and learn). Now I reset the timing, (I learned how and bought a timing light), it seems to like 14 degrees best. But once again, it runs great but has a new problem... a small surge in the car, when you are going about 50 mph. It is very slight but bugs me just the same lol! Ted. Ahappy mustanger in Canada!
  12. Hello again, so my 351 C was working like a top after taking it to garage and having timing set and carb set up. Now only one week later it is back to back firing through the carb, which I guess is technically not a backfire, but I still call it that due to the hair loss on one side of my head from flame! If you guys recall I put the new cam and lifters and Edelbrock intake on my 73 vert. I had a time getting the dizzy right so I ended up taking to a garage to get timing set and then it worked great, now once again it is back to hesitating and backfiring through carb when you stomp on it under load, but when I was playing around with choke yesterday.. BAM... a big ball of fire comes out of carb and singes my hair on one side...... now I had to march into house to explain to my wife how I still know what I am doing despite the funny smell of burning hair. After doing much research on the internet I learned that in order to backfire through carb, it is a spark issue?
  13. Hi there, I am interested, would you ship it to Canada? Thanks
  14. Thank you, yes the cam does make it want to go into higher rpms so easily! I will replace springs and valves before too long, all I wanted to see was if the stock 2V heads would work well for me, as there are many opinions on that subject. I didnt want to spend a lot of money or time on the stock heads if I was going to have to use my CJ heads, because those will need a full rebuild as they have been sitting for 30 or more years. Thanks for now and will post vid of engine, I just like going to garage to start it up... LOL!!! I love the sound... I have a little tidying up around the engine to do yet before the first car show in May. Thanks again.
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