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Everything posted by keiths71

  1. DuPont is now called Axalta , you can still buy 5717s metal cleaner (rust remover) and 5518s conversion coating only in gallons. Get the tech sheets. They also have metal prep wipes ps4000 final step before primer on bare metal. RBL products has a similar product. Which is something we used to call a Hinkel Wipe for metal prep not rust removal. A less expensive phosphoric product that works well is kleen strip prep and etch at Home Depot or Lowes. They now call it a concrete cleaner they just started doing that. I scrub it around rinse or wipe with damp cloth,let it dry and sand again with 180.
  2. I got 600.00 to spend on the mustang before it gets spent on something else!!!
  3. Since you used the hardener w&g remover probably won't work. but still worth a try. Next I would try MEK. Then I would try a clay bar, ora 3m 36060ex with a foam pad. Good luck
  4. NICE CAR! mufflers, et. street tires, registration = street car. Maybe a different converter lol.
  5. NICE CAR! mufflers, et. street tires, registration = street car
  6. 69' s were smooth 70 up has a light texture as far as I know. The texture can be reproduced with a wet coat then a dust coat right over it. It takes a practice peice to time it just right. My 2 cents.
  7. I agree the SEM is good stuff. It comes in a box with a qt. of paint, half pint each of activator and reducer. Depending on how you reduce it and/or spray it you can end up with different textures. I used it on my brother in law's 70 Torino Cobra 5yrs ago and it has held up well. And isn't too bad to maintain. The cost is about 100.00 for the "kit". I have used it since on a lot of stuff. So I'll share A couple of things. It dries slow so dust can be a problem. If you have primer spots its best seal the whole area or chances are the spots will show . It's sensitive to humidity. I use an Iwatta 1.3 gun and spray it wet with a 70% or so overlap. On body panels 600 grit is good , engine compartments etc. you can get away with 320 or 400 grit. If you are doing stripes carefully untape before it's totally dry, the edges will be softer. Re doing stripes leaves a thick edge so I hope these tips are helpfull. Axalta Hot Hues hot rod black is also really good stuff.
  8. If you don't need to have original markings for a restoration. Take a look at auto city classic. I bought a 4 pc. set from them and I am happy. Same thickness as originals and good price. Nice smoke tint without having to use film.
  9. Now that is a serious track! I do have pics of different layouts. We recently moved, when they turn up I'll send some with the older cars
  10. One very important thing is having clean dry air before you prime or paint, mount a water / oil separator about 25' from your compressor so the air has a chance to cool. Moisture in your first coat (or any coat) which you may not see will ruin your hard work and money spent on materials. I would go to all of the body and paint suppliers in your area to find the one that is the most helpful and informative . Building a relationship with your supplier will pay dividends in the long run. Looks like you have a long run. Lol
  11. I really like your cowl bracket. I think the cross brace should be low enough. I've been playing around with different plates, tubing etc. Looks like you are doing some nice work.
  12. How about 2 flatheads welded together end to end in a tubbed Lincoln Mark IV. "hot rod Lincoln"
  13. I agree that flatheads are cool, so are y blocks. But if we are talking about putting one in a 71-73 mustang. Sorry but it would have have to be one seriously bad was one. I associate David Pearson with 427s and Boss 429s #21
  14. Me neither! Plus 7173s have better power steering.
  15. The AFX track is a holiday tradition at my house for decades. Every Christmas as soon as dinner is over (14'x4' plywood table) my buddy Stevemach1ford and i set up the track, then the night time party begins. after the next day we tweek it. and have it ready for new years eve. then leave it up for a couple months. its's more popular with the adults than kids.We made it 4 lanes with a transformer for each lane about 10yrs ago. we still use alot of the 70's afx cars. but now mostly use newer gforce and indy AFX cars. it may have something to do with the open bar but it still is a blast. These are the only pics I had handy, no scenery or cars.
  16. Cerium Oxide powder is the good stuff, there are plenty of articles on using it, no matter what ,polishing glass is a lot of work. Especially if you have to sand scratches out first
  17. K Mart is your savings store where your dollar buys you more!
  18. I've bought 428 stuff from semo mustang highly recommended . It's been quite a while I think the guy I dealt with was Dennis.
  19. A couple of other things. Whatever brand you choose look at the tech sheets for out of dust times. A slow " baking clear "or some single stage can stay tacky too long to use at home. Special final tac rags for base coat like sontara e-4141 don't leave stuff behind on your base coat like cheap ones do. I make a lean to with screen cloth and run a sprinkler on it to contain over spray and odor. That makes a huge difference as far as nosey neighbors are concerned. Grounding the body will also help cut down on static electricity. I do it but don't really know how much it helps
  20. keiths71


    Good luck, looks like a very cool 71
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