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Everything posted by keiths71

  1. keiths71


    Good luck, looks like a very cool 71
  2. I've painted at least 10 whole cars and many partial cars in a make shift paint booth at home. I work for a body shop supply co. as the tech. / sales rep.for the last 15yrs. So I use axalta (DuPont) products for color and or clear. on bare metal I use 2580cr Zink chromate epoxy. Evercoat 4:1 super build polyester is great for a very stable high build if that's what you are looking for.you need a 2.0 or so tip to spray it. If you can find hbbody products in your area hb 360 2:1 primer is what I have used for years. It goes on shiny (you can see everything) doesn't shrink like most cheaper primers as the build comes from high solid resin not talc. You can reduce it up to 30% and use it as a sealer. And it's reasonably priced. Yes I love this stuff. Painting at home you are probably planning on sanding and polishing . A lot o 2:1 or high solid clears can be prone to solvent popping after 2 coats one option is base it clear it fix anything you don't like sand it and re clear it. On solid colors I like the look of single stage, I used super jet black s/s on my 71. Plus s/s gives you a choice of what color over spray is all over your stuff. The activator in any product is the worst thing for you. If you use a cartridge respirator keep it sealed when not using it. They are rated at 20 hours . So sitting on your bench out of the bag is not a good plan. When I paint stuff at home I plan on doing it twice, that way I'm not pissed when I do it the 2nd time. If you Google www.brevardautopaint I did both of those cars start to finish at home in a crappy closed in pole barn
  3. Yea, not meant for concourse restoration. I wanted dark tinted glass instead of film. Plus the time and materials for doing it your self , or polishing cost plus tinting made this a good deal for me. You can polish scratches and sander marks, you can also put dips in it just like with marble or paint.
  4. Good luck with your surgery and recovery David. Your positive additude will be a big plus
  5. They do look nice and straight. That would be something, A really straight black car with wavy windows! I didn't give that any thought. Now that you mention it I see many new homes being built with very wavy glass. The house I grew up in was built in 1753. Talk about wavy glass, hell wavy everything.
  6. The 4pc. side glass showed up, well packaged, not a mark on them ,11/64-3/16 thick as we're my originals. For my car they will be fine
  7. If your building code will allow you to use rafters instead of trusses you can gain ceiling height. Also plan ahead for footers if need them for your lift. I'm in a similar place. At 58 I tore down my 25 year workshop and built a new house where it was. Now moved in but not starting on the detached garage untill my 71 is finished. You may also look into a tray or vaulted ceiling. Depending on your house 12' walls may look out of proportion to it. I was wanting to turn the old house into a garage. That idea didn't fly!
  8. If you get your hands on a load leveler, it was helpfull when I put mine in with the tko . Once in we switched to a lift plate and a floor jack under the trans. To get the headers in and mounts bolted up. It went very smooth. Getting everything else done in the engine compartment done has been slow. We built a new house and moved in may. Just getting going on the mustang again. One thing I can say is vintage air/aeroquip e z fittings and hose are a super nice way to do the a/c. Good luck getting it all together!
  9. Looks like a really good find, especially if it doesn't need a ton of metal work. I would lean towards making it how you want it. I don't know what that is, but if a stock h code isn't what you had in mind, why go to the trouble and expense of restoring it that way?, maybe set the original engine trans aside, build a healthy Cleveland , overdrive trans, some suspension mods etc. Or possibly sell it at a profit now. But then you have to hunt up another one. Either way good luck with your project
  10. Thanks, I'll give the side glass a try. In smoke gray. They sell 4pc.set on eBay 289.00 +40.00. I do agree as far as windshields go, cheaper ones are also usually more brittle and more likely to crack. I already have a nice p.p.g. one .hopefully I can find someone with tint to match for the back window
  11. Has not have, I need to not skip that preview post thing
  12. Have any body on this site used glass from auto city classic?
  13. I've never done mustang seats, but have done 10 or so sets of older corvette seats. Along with the hog rings I've used heavy DuPont stren fishing line to to pull wrinkles tight here and there. Which worked very well. I'm also thinking about the tmi stuff. So any feedback on them is appreciated
  14. I love torinos , even 72's. I learned to drive in a 71 351 4v gt. (My dad traded it for an Ltd before I got my license) my brother in law has a nice 70 429 cj 4 speed black cobra. I always offer to drive when we take it anywhere. .That said, I agree with hemikiller if you want a Torino / Ranchero, start with the best and most complete one you can find. If you end up needing parts let me know . I have 2 good connections in fl for Parts and info. I'll get you the phone #s if you want.
  15. It's cool that you used the solid cam. So are you running 2.25 intakes? Back when I built my Boss I bought all my valvetrain parts from Bill Maier , when he used to sell engine parts. Lots of high rpm use, never an issue. Your more modern combo should be even better.
  16. Torque is great, but there isn't many things that sound better than a boss 302 @ 7,300!
  17. Congrats, that engine should be a blast! ( not literally) I drove a 4:30 geared , 70 boss 302 with engine mods. about 70,000 miles mostly on back roads of Conn. during the time l had it. I'm 59 and that was my favorite car ever. Kudos to you for building the engine I would have liked to. A Boss with good torque #s. Sweet!
  18. Those movies made it to tv, right?
  19. They left out Diamonds are forever and gone in 60 seconds mach 1's!
  20. E coat is process not an actual product. In manufacturing it has many advantages over painting. I wouldn't trust it as the foundation of a body/ paint job that I would do. Most collision shops finish over it . Hopefully most restoration shops don't. Epoxy primer or sealer or at least urethane primer or sealer would be good to use if you do finish over it.
  21. On new exterior panels it is a good idea to remove the primer,re prep the steel, and prime with epoxy or etch primer. Because there is often rust under the primer on replacement parts. Taking that chance on other parts is probably more acceptable. As to your question yes you can prime and/or paint over those parts. But if you can wipe the primer off with lacquer thinner you may want something with more corrosion resistance.
  22. Hi David, I am sorry about the pain that you are in. The one thing I can say is explore as many options as you can for relief. And with medical stuff you have to be your own advocate. My neighbor is 61, had to retire because of his back,after surgery, a15" scar, a year of pain killers and being miserable. He had some type of gel put between the vertebrae that they had worked on. He is now off the pain killers and doing pretty good. I'll ask him the specifics. Good luck with this battle. And thanks for the thermostat!
  23. There is a late model infinity color that is very similar. If you can find someone that sells spies hecker, Standox, or cromax products and has an aquire efx or quantum camera. You should be on the right track. In my opinion, and I do this for a living,these cameras are the best at getting the flake right as well as the color and side tone. Ask for spray out cards. Try different air pressures and plan on blending. I would be surprised if those cameras wouldn't read that color. If it doesn't ,ask if they have color spectrum chips, they can be helpfull.
  24. If you can get the code and brand from the painter or owner that would be great. If not give the guy a chance to old school eye match it.
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