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keiths71

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Everything posted by keiths71

  1. worth does have good products. i would think most polyester primers are of decent quality. look for 5+ mil per coat. another option is go old school and skim panels and block them then prime and block and prime and block...... it may be worth looking for an hb body distributor I'm pretty sure they have one. really good products at good price made in greece. try hbbody.com
  2. best image hosting free Hi, i've used slick sand many times over the years it is a great product, I had "tons" of it on my daily driver black 86 gt. that never spent a day inside, 5+ years in fla. sun with no issues.I usually put it over 16+ hr old axalta (dupont) epoxy. then finish it off with a couple nice smooth coats of hb body 360 2k primer. some high end resto shops owned by friends also use the same system. you can find an inexpensive 2.2 or larger gun. mix it carefully. never mix your 2nd coat with more mekp than the coat under it. do not use it on top of etch primer. I have now switched to evercoat 4:1 super build polyester, more fill, more forgiving to mix, they say dtm i'm still not comfortable with that other than cut through areas.you can go to evercoats website and look at the tech sheets. start off with a small batch, maybe hit the spots you know are low first. then crank the tunes and go to town blocking!
  3. hi tony, i had it in without any modification with an american power train "x" cross member but didn't like the drive line angle nor the geometry of my mechanical clutch linkage so i cut a large section of the top of the tunnel,made a steel cross brace and a new sheet metal top, i was too far along under the dash so i put it in with panel bond and rivets. i cut the cross member 1 1/2 " bolted the 4 tabs back together and had a friend tig it back together.and left the bolts in. i don't have a before picture or the x cross member. had i not already spent $$$ on modifications to the trans. i could have used the new low profile tko instead. but now the clutch linkage all lines up perfect and my 3" exhaust fits up tight. and i have room to adjust the driveshaft angle. and no i wouldn't have done this too a pristine original haha . the valve covers are boss 302 Sorry I should have posted the trans. stuff else where
  4. hi tony, i had it in without any modification with an american power train "x" cross member but didn't like the drive line angle nor the geometry of my mechanical clutch linkage so i cut a large section of the top of the tunnel,made a steel cross brace and a new sheet metal top, i was too far along under the dash so i put it in with panel bond and rivets. i cut the cross member 1 1/2 " bolted the 4 tabs back together and had a friend tig it back together.and left the bolts in. i don't have a before picture or the x cross member. had i not already spent $$$ on modifications to the trans. i could have used the new low profile tko instead. but now the clutch linkage all lines up perfect and my 3" exhaust fits up tight. and i have room to adjust the driveshaft angle. and no i wouldn't have done this too a pristine original haha . the valve covers are boss 302
  5. hi, making some progress, getting things connected, it's a 408c/tko 600. just finished trans tunnel mods. now almost finished with lines, hoses and wiring. good image hosting site
  6. Cool I wouldn't mind if that was my yard. How about some details?
  7. Look at the bright side. You can buy a really nice m or q code 71-73 for the same price as a lowly 307 2 speed malibu
  8. I'm building my 71 mach 1 project to suit myself, with many modifications. as far as value and future values go, on this car I think it will be about the same as if i restored it original.[mcode 4speed at one time] . look at the values of other cars restored vs restomod. it's really up to who owns any given car and what they want out of it. certain cars should be preserved of course. if you "restore" a car with repro parts that don't fit right' look right or work right, whats it really going to be worth down the road? only what someone will pay for it. I have a very original 69 scj 4speed 4:30 gear,manual steering, drum brake, no radio, plane jane sportsroof. since 1992. a blast to drive for a little while at a time. wouldn't change a thing about it. the modernized 71 should be a much more enjoyable car though. I say just enjoy the hobby. if restoring for future value start with the best car and model possible. usually cost the same to restore a base model as a delux model in the long run.and sometimes a free car isn't a good deal lol
  9. Lord Fusor uses a standard caulking gun. All sounds guys... I’ll check out both options before I proceed as I want the best product and most easily applied too... didn’t know LF is a standard gun.... more to think. About... fusor makes 1k and 2k seam sealer.{both types of guns} there are many brands of sealers and adhesives. your supplier may have sem or evercoat etc. keep in mind things things like dry time, work time, dtm or not, if extra tips are available. shelf life when opened. 3m does makes great products. my warning on the 8500 was because i have seen it in drip rails body seams etc. cause these little cracks even when cured long before paint or primer, i didn't want that to happen to you.
  10. not a fan at all of 3m 1k 8500 under paint, it will shrink and the paint will crack, upol tiger seal is a better choice for 1k, i agree lord fusor or 3m 8308 is the next step up. see if your local paint store has a loaner gun if you don't want to buy one
  11. go to mustangtek.com to idenify any driveline part by part#
  12. SEM 2k hot rod black hr 1010 is really good stuff. it works best with sealer under it. qt. and 1/2 kit is around 100.00. if you want high quality aresol products. look at spray max,they have a nice selection of 1k and 2k primers, paints and clears
  13. hi paul, I have that piece if you need it, other than some old black paint on it good cond. just cover shipping
  14. a company called spray max sells 2k "hot rod" black in a high quality aresol can. once activated it's good for about 2 days. try your auto paint store. or amazon. if you don't wish to use spray equipment. they market many other quality products in aresol form. they also have adjustable fan patterns.
  15. sorry I didn't help with your question. if the film thickness of the primer/paint is thick and you get the cracks you may have to live with it. put some paint or clear on the cracks if you can to keep moisture out
  16. I use washers made from milk jug material, panels slide around easy for adjustment without scratching. then I replace them one by one. 3m yellow tape one all the edges. also works instaed of the plastic washers if you don't want to make them
  17. one option is Axalta corlar 2.1 st epoxy mastic primer. spray it, roll it or brush it. comes in satin black. some jobbers can mix it in colors. only comes in gal. form, so you end up with 2 gals. use a big " doggy" syringe and squirt or pour the excess inside channels, rockers etc. 3m cavity wax also works well for that. another nice product is lizard skin sound and heat control. check out their website. just google axalta corlar 2.1 st and look at the tech sheet. also it needs to be mixed really well. wear a respirator
  18. A friend of mine Ken at Kidd Darrins custom cars in melb.fl. built me a stainless 1/2" sending unit out of a stock one. super nice job on it. I believe robb mc now offers one. I am planning on running the return line out the top but away from the tunnel
  19. hi kevin me again. if you spot prime or spot seal and sand those areas still seal the whole area you are repainting. Revsitup made a good point about thin spots of clear possibly being the source of this problem. I've had that happen to me on parts that have been" cut in" the day before.
  20. hey kevin, how cold has it been in your garage? I not real familier with ppg anymore. I do know some of their clears are pretty slow. any urethane will stop crosslinking (drying) at a certain temp. 59 degrees and up usually is safe. in other words. If you paint a car in the afternoon say at 70 and at night your garage cools off to 50 degrees. the clear can slow way down. some clears can be worse about this than others. so 2 days dry time may not really be 2 days. ask your supplier or look on line at the technical data sheet for air dry times on your clear. I think this may be the cause of your issue. also air temp vs metal temp can have an effect. I would seal the whole area as I have found the sem will look different over areas that have been spot primed. at 100.00 a kit. I wouldn't want you the find that out the hard way. it will blush on damp rainy days,so watch that. also epoxy sealer will work better to "lock down" any areas that have lifted. start with light coats on those areas, let the spots dry, sand if you need to , then go from there. hope this was some help
  21. looks really good ! you are on the right track as far as grits. pick up a couple motor guard sb-1, sb-2 blocks. 3m or carburendum wet paper is what I like to use. along with 3m 36360 ex and their white foam cutting pads. meguires diamond cut or solo and their foam pads work pretty good also, start with the w7000 maroon pad then go to the yellow and tan ones. If you want to use wool get good ones. I seldom use them any more (swirl marks). keep the rotation of the pad going away from the edges. there are many other very good products besides what I like. and every one has their own methods. if you are using matt or satin black you may want to sand and buff, before the black or mask it off so you don't get compound all over it. the nice thing about the solo is with one bottle of compound and the different pads you don't have to buy 2 or 3 different products at 30.00-40.00 per qt. I think evercoat and Norton have similar systems. have fun!
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