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Mach_One

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Everything posted by Mach_One

  1. From what I read, they bought '71 Mustangs to do the movie, then shooting got delayed for a few years due to lack of funds. When they did finally shoot the movie, they wanted to "update" the 71 cars to 73. So they added the 73 parts, but left the 71 front turn signals intact.
  2. My 'Stang turned 50 in September. Built September 3, 1970, sold September 30th. It now has 74,000 miles on the clock. Numbers matching and mostly original, she wears her 50 years better than I do, LOL. Pewter paint with Black interior, Ram-Air "J" code.
  3. Mine's an aluminum spacer, 1.000" in length and 1.023" in diameter. Don't know the hole size through the center, (it's on the car) but I'd guess it's 7/16 or 1/2". Hope this helps!
  4. Thanks Guys! I knew I'd be in for dropping the harmonic balancer, water pump and timing cover also. Before I go ahead with it, I'm going to clean the area really good and spray it with some penetrant developer. The developer is a white coat that will provide a clean, white contrasting background so I can see where the oil leak is coming from. Once complete, the developer just wipes off. Another question: How well will I be able to see the camshaft? I want to check if it's a roller or not.
  5. My J-code has developed a pesky oil pan leak. It's not life-ending stuff, it can leak I guess, but it bothers me. The leak seems to be coming from the front of the oil pan, possibly from the timing cover. I have not for 100% determined where exactly it's leaking from yet. My question is: If I were so inclined, is to possible to pull the oil pan on a '71 429 Mach with the engine in place? It looks like it should come off pretty easy, but maybe the engine would need jacking up to clear the main caps when pulling the pan out? Anyone done this before?
  6. +3! I also had the blinking issue in my Mach. I did not bother to replace the switch, I just added THIS relay harness. I also put in new, matched regular Halogen sealed beams to replace the old, crappy mis-matched lights that were in there. Instant 100% improvement and no more blinking. What I like about the relay harness is it's completely non-destructive, requires no cutting of wires, and can be removed and returned to stock at any time if you wanted to.
  7. Go and look at it in person. When I bought my J-Code about a year and a half ago, I grappled with the same stuff. If I sent the guy the money, I may never see the car, etc. (the car was 1,483 miles away from me) I looked at shipping options too. Expensive! Finally decided that the way to deal was in person. I took my bestest buddy with me, got a cheap 1 way tickets on Allegiant Air and flew down there. I took a cashier's check to pay for the car. Then I rented a 10ft U-haul truck and trailer and dragged my prize home myself. When it was all said and done, I did that for the same cost as shipping it....only much faster. We trucked it home straight through very tired (but happy) when I got home.
  8. Wow, that's sad. The point of owning the car (for me anyhow) is to DRIVE it. No pistons? Nuts! I took my 'stang to a small show today, and it sure gets a lot of attention. Drove it there and back, that's the FUN of owning these rides!
  9. But Avgas gets VERY expensive!! Premium is bad enough! As mentioned, a Dura Spark is a good distributor by all accounts and you can buy them built and tuned for YOUR engine. I think the company is Performance Distributors, not sure without double checking. Again I make no claim to be an expert, but to me it seems like as you are running points in an old dizzy, I'd be looking a getting a rebuilt Motorcraft or Dura Spark and if necessary re-slotting the smallest slot as required for the 429's best max initial advance. Like I also said, I'm not familiar with the big engines, so do your research. 351's like 14 to 16 degrees of initial, but only tolerate 34 -36 max mechanical, therefore only 20 deg. on the crank (10L slot) and this also may be dependent on the build of a particular engine. This is what I have come to learn over the last 10 years, largely from my own experimentation. Good luck with it, Geoff. Yeah, spendy! Good thing it's not a daily driver! Last time I bought avgas, it was $4.00/gal. Since there's no road tax, they won't put it in your car. They'll sell it, just not put it in! I can haul about 22 gallons of avgas in 3 gas cans that I have. It's enough for a few tanks of mix gas. The old boy at the airport looks at me and grins and says: "What do you got that you need avgas for?" "429 Cobra Jet" I reply. He grins even bigger after hearing that and proceeds to tell me how the drag racers come over with their 55-gallon drums to get them filled, LOL! My car is restored and the engine is completely stock/original with correct dizzy and points in it. I don't want to change rather keep it original. Timing and advance curve are still worth looking at though. Thanks!
  10. I'm not familiar with 429's at all, but if they behave anything like a 71 351C 4V M code, you might want to look at your distributor for degrees and curve. Mine pinged like popcorn too until I finally figured out HOW to build a distributor. I've posted on this many times if you care to search just to give you an idea. I can now run on 91 non-ethanol without any pinging. My settings are; 10L slot width (.410") or 20degrees on the crank, 1 factory heavy spring set to just loose on the pegs and 1 Mr.Gasket 925D set with mild tension. The initial is currently at 16 degrees for a total of 36* total mechanical plus about 6 deg. of vacuum advance. This is on a Motorcraft factory dist. Non of that HEI sh*t for me. Many of the reman distributors I found are built with a 15L slot or 30 deg. crank, which only allows about 4-6 deg. of initial before you run into too much advance, hence pinging with any more. I also run a Pertronix Ignitor II and coil. EDIT: I did not mention my engine is a modest 10:1 with a mild cam just slightly above stock. 64 cc CC heads, stock intake and exhaust manifolds. My fuel system is now also upgraded to tolerate ethanol IF I have too. Our Sunoco 94, owned by Petro-Canada, is now 10% corn crap. Of course if you motor is built up super high, no amount of timing mods will fix it as far as I know...……… which isn't much!! Geoff. You are right, I should have a look at the distributor. My 429CJ is completely stock with points in the distributor and 11:3:1 compression. She'd ping like crazy anytime I dropped the hammer. Avgas makes her happy. Thanks for the info!
  11. Finding non-ethanol gas around here (Nebraska) is not hard. Most places have 87 octane E-10, 89 octane (no ethanol) and 91 octane premium. I can't find 93 octane anywhere around here. My engine pings like popcorn on the 91 premium, and those miracle-in-a-bottle octane boosters don't work. I resorted to mixing my gas 50/50 premium gas and LL100 octane avgas. No ping, the 429CJ-R runs strong. Buying, hauling and mixing gas is a hassle, but you sacrifice for the ones you love!
  12. Well, it was a HOT day out there, but worth it! I got to see some very cool Mustangs! The concourse trailers cars were very impressive. There were tons of cars there, and some very rare ones. I would have liked to see more 71-73's but there were some there. There was a grabber blue '70 Boss 429 survivor / barn find there that was sold new in Nebraska and has spent its whole life in the state. Original and unrestored, very impressive! As far as our cars go, there were a pair of Boss 351's, and one 71 429 SCJ car. Probably should have put my car in the show, might have done well just due to lack of competing cars. Maybe next time!
  13. More Info: The car show will be outside Pinnacle arena in the parking lots. The judged classes are full, but show & shine entries can come at any time, just show up with your car. $25.00 for show & shine. There's no cost to go and look at the cars, just show up. It's gonna be a hot & sweaty day, but I'll be there!!
  14. Sweet looking vert Beersdontcount!! ::thumb:: I have the Magnum 500's. 1. What is the best quality Magnum package? Lots of debate there. I have wheel vintiques 10x15's on the back with 5" BS 15x8's on the front. They look nice but I had to deburr the valve stem holes when they arrived. 2. What other wheel and tire combinations do you like? American Racing Torque Thrust D's. 3. Is it better to order tires and rims separately and have a local shop balance and mount them? That's what I did. Got wheels from Summit, got the tires from a local shop, mounted & balanced for free. 4. What tire sizes look best for front and back? I have BFG's 15-295/50's on the back, 15-225/60's on the front. Like 'em a lot.
  15. Keys can wear to the point that they don't work anymore. I'd replace all the locks on the car and be done with it.
  16. You'd spend a TON trying to put it back to close to original, and it still would not be "numbers matching" even if you could find everything you needed, such as date-correct block, trans, manifolds, air cleaner, etc. Those little detail items add up in a hurry and cost a bunch of $$$. Many items are not reproduced also. If it was my car and I was going to build it, I'd build it without an emphasis on originality and just have fun with the car.
  17. I'm going Saturday afternoon and looking forward to it. I'm in McCool Junction, NE.
  18. 2018 MCA National Mustang Show at Pinnacle Bank Arena in Lincoln, NE July 13-15. Pinnacle is a new, very excellent facility located in the historic haymarket area of Lincoln Nebraska. Anyone else going? I've been excited about this show and I'll be there with bells on! I'd like to take my 'stang and show it, I'm still a relative newbie to car showing and stuff, so I'll stick to the smaller shows for now.
  19. Welcome from Nebraska! Looking forward to the pics! ::thumb::
  20. My best friend's sister when I was in high school had a black '73 Mach 1. God I remember having a hoot cruising around in that! I fell in love with that car and always wanted one. A couple of years ago I got sick and had some pretty serious health problems, and decided that we do not last for forever and I better get one and enjoy it. I did my research and decided that I wanted a j-code 71 Mach 1. Combed the entire country to find one, but eventually brought my prize home. I get positive comments and thumbs up whenever I take the car out cruising or car shows. People come and drool all over it and tell me how nice it is and how their son, dad, brother, uncle, etc. had one just like it back in the day. I can't tell from where I sit that there's bias against the 71-73's but I guess there probably is. Much less bias for our cars than the Mustang II's. Some 429CJ/SCJ's and Bosses are bringing north of 100K at auction for the right car & options, someone likes them! I would hope the appreciation for our cars will continue to grow over time.
  21. Cool story, and sounds like you are doing a great job of tracking your car's history! I hope it works out and you can track it all down. Sometimes goodies can come out, such as an original owner's manual or warranty card, which would be seriously cool!! I am mostly in the dark about my Mach 1's history. The guy I got it from bought it at a Mecum auction and was not real helpful in tracking previous owner or missing documentation. The original invoice has already been bought by someone else, and the Marti people were no help in helping me locate where it went. They say they don't have records...but...their business IS SELLING RECORDS! I don't buy it! They just don't wanna give me a name is all. Put my VIN number into Google, and low and behold, 100 pictures of my car come up, apparently right after it had been restored. There it is, original invoice, warranty card, everything!!!! Who in the **** keeps this kind of stuff and doesn't let it go with the car?? It more than ticks me off to say the least. I'm pretty well stuck, so I'd love to hear other people's stories, maybe it would help me!
  22. Auction results from Indy, 2018 this weekend. I was kinda surprised that the non-numbers matching 1971 SportsRoof 429 car brought as much as it did. Don't get me wrong...it's NICE and correct as possible, but not numbers matching. 1971 Vert (351) SOLD $18,150 1971 Mach 1 (351) SOLD $28,600 1971 Mach 1 (Boss 351) SOLD $45,100 1971 Mach 1 (Boss 351) NOSALE $55,000 1971 Mach 1 (Boss 351) NOSALE $60,000 1971 Mach 1(Boss 351) NOSALE $70,000 1971 SportsRoof (429SCJ) SOLD $74,250 1971 Mach 1 (429SCJ) SOLD $99,000 1971 Mach 1 (Boss 351) SOLD $104,500 1971 Mach 1 (Boss 351) SOLD $132,000 1972 Grande (302) SOLD $6,600 (someone got a DEAL…NICE CAR!!) 1972 Mach 1 (351) NOSALE $22,000 1972 Vert (351) SOLD $29,150 1973 Vert (302) NOSALE $13,000 1973 Mach 1 (351) SOLD $22,000 1973 Vert (351) NOSALE $23,000 1973 Vert (351) SOLD $26,400 1973 Vert (351) NOSALE $27,000
  23. Nice work! Locating parts for the 429CJ cars is no easy (or cheap) task. No many of these cars were made to start with, way less of them now. Keep plugging away, you're doing great!
  24. Here's one for 2 grand.....part code is correct but date code is early for a 71 stang...
  25. For the amount the seller wants for it, the carb should already be rebuilt, new dichromate plating treatment, ready to go. Most that I have seen for sale are that way. In addition to the exhaust manifold heat stove and battery heat shield, the original, numbers-correct carb is one of the few details my J-Code is missing. Of course all the details I just listed are super-expensive and hard to find too.... I have a true Ford Q-jet on it, just not *exactly* the right one. It's close enough that I'm not looking to spend $1,500-2,000 to get the right one.
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