TheRktmn

Yes, I do both. https://www.rccinnovations.com/

The tach will read low if you have too much resistance in the primary circuit. Are you running the factory 'pink' wire along with an external ballast resistor, or an aftermarket 3.0 ohm '12V' coil? A list of Pertronix coils and their resistance ratings is here: https://pertronixbrands.com/collections/flame-thrower-canister-coils Normally, running two resistors will effect performance, but high resistance is the main reason both factory tachs would read low.

The 1.5 ohm resistor is to protect the coil/points. During start the circuit has B+ (battery voltage). Since the primary ignition circuit goes through the tach the tach is designed to have that resistor. Without it the tach will read high (and eventually die). If you have a tach reading consistently low you may have an external ballast resistor as well as the OEM 'pink' wire, or one of those MOPAR dual ballast ceramic external resistors that have 1.5 ohms on one side and 5.0 ohms on the other.

Needle would be on or just past E at 10 ohms. 3/4 is about 16 I believe. If the needle does not not max out when disconnected from sender then it's in the sender or gauge. 71-73 have plastic housings so it's not the gauge stud grounding. That leaves sender or printed circuit on back of cluster, but I would expect that to be unaffected by the sender disconnect. Sounds to me like a bad sender.

I rebuilt my FMX back in 79 or 80. I din't remember details, but it was fairly straight forward. I worked in a garage at the time so I had access to tools like an inch pound torque wrench, but I don't remember there being anything crazy hard about it. Why not order the kit and have at it?

It drives me nuts when people don't take the time to twist multi-strand wires before they connect them together. Seriously, how much longer would it have taken to make a decent looking connection. That's just shoddy workmanship. /S

From my '69:

I have seen this happen when using a relay in the ignition circuit:

There's a good chance that it's wear on the winder gear shaft. The shaft has spring tension on it and slowly wears it's mounting hole into a groove. The gear gets cockeyed and the clock stops. Is there any wobble/play in the main gear that winds? If not then you may get lucky and only need a good clean & lube.

Sounds like a slipped timing chain. Check #1 cylinder on compression stroke is aligned in distributor cap.

Maybe her lawyer insisted he sell his car and give her half.....

It sounds like you have power on both ring terminals at the meter. Please confirm that one is switched power and the other is going to ground.

I was told that the primer protects the stripped metal and will be block sanded to expose lows and highs in the panels.

Congarats TNFASTBK

It never occurred to me that there was an option other than nursing my tractor all the way over to the shop, or lugging that big old air tank out to the field every time I run over an antler! Yeah, as I get older I get lazier....