Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


TheRktmn last won the day on January 15

TheRktmn had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

32 Excellent

About TheRktmn

  • Rank
    I get my mail here
  • Birthday 04/15/1960

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    69 Cougar XR7 460/C6


  • Location
    Mills County, TX
  • Region

Personal Information

  • Sex

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I stand corrected. I was thinking of activating a relay or soft switch like the MSD box, not a constant power source.
  2. Depending on the solenoid it is hot during run or when the A/C is on, but not during start. The wire midlife directed you to meets both requirements. You can also tap off the I post of the starter solenoid (same circuit, same function, different place).
  3. Ford used the STA (stator) post on the alternator for a reason. The choke is supposed to open as the engine warms up. If you use a switched source then the choke is heating and opening as long as the key is on. If the engine stalls while warming up it still opens, making the choke useless. The STA post only powers the choke when the engine is running, as an 'automatic' choke was intended to work. Of course there is an ongoing www argument about Edelbrock calling for 12V on their choke and the STA puts out about 1/2 the B+ voltage in A/C form but many have tested it and the STA opens withing seconds of the 12V. I have always used the STA on my Ford, Holly, Edelbrock and now Summit chokes and they work fine.
  4. Disconnect the factory wire and run a wire from the battery positive post to the horn. If the horn works correctly you have a low voltage issue, consider adding a relay. (insert shameless plug here: ) https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-relays#horn https://www.npdlink.com/product/relay-kit-horn-makes-your-horns-sound-like/195993/200452 If the horns don't work when 'hot wired' check for a good ground. The horns ground through the mounting bracket to the chassis. Check for paint or corrosion, then retest The horns tend to get dirt and moisture in them which can build up and clog the horn. Insects also like to nest inside them. There are some you tube videos showing how to disassemble and clean the horns.
  5. Sounds like the self resetting circuit breaker in the headlight switch is going out. Change the headlight switch.
  6. Last I knew WCCC was buying their boosters from 'Mr Vacuum' up in Canada. I'd be willing to bet they're not married to him. Might be worth a call.
  7. Which parts specifically? I have a ton of old cluster hardware.
  8. Definitely go with Midlife.
  9. A lot of Cougar guys tried them out years ago. They do not have a good reputation, but SD may have fixed the quality issues by now. Last I knew WCCC refused to carry them anymore. You're better off finding a used Ford truck switch and box.
  10. Since I started messing with cars in the early/mid 70s I have used Motorcraft, Holley, Edelbrock and Summit carbs. I was fed up with Holley's being temperamental and alternately leaking or drying out so I switched to Edelbrock which is basically an improved Carter. The E'brocks were good and very tunable, but a bit of a pain to use on a Ford. The last few years I have been running Summit carbs - a cross of the best Motorcraft and Holley features and I love 'em.
  11. Your factory tach does not read the signal that the MSD R2R puts out. The MSD hook-up (grey wire) is a square wave voltage signal created by the coil field collapsing and is picked up from the coil - post. The grey wire is a synthetic signal that emulates the square wave. Your factory tach is current sensing and reads the amount of current going into the coil on the + post. Basically you are asking an 1157 tail light bulb to illuminate in your kitchen ceiling light socket. Unless the R2R is something other than the MSD version of a GM HEI (all in one electronic ignition) the factory tach 'should*' work normally with a factory hook up. Ignore the grey wire, keep the factory ignition circuit intact. Any change to the factory circuit will effect the tach and it's accuracy as well as it's lifespan. *'should' because Faria tachometers are notorious for failing. I am pretty sure that Faria considers any tach that works beyond the three year 36,000 mile Ford warranty a design failure. Factory hook-up: Ignition ON --> tach Red wire...through tach to tach Black wire --> 'pink' resistor wire --> coil + post. This is a simplified drawing but still applies to all Ford current sensing (series) tachs:
  12. How about the flat piece of the radio bezel above the radio? That piece is reproduced, so get one (or a used one) and put two downward facing LEDs in there aligned under the appropriate gauges. You would glance at your gauges/clock/radio as part of your scan but a bright glow may catch your periphery vision quicker.
  13. A pic of your interior layout to see what you have now would be helpful.

About Us

7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

Site Navigation

7173 Wiki


Site Info

July 2010

Webfinity Design

Latrobe, PA

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help customize your user experience here on 7173Mustangs.com. You can adjust your cookie settings to your preferences if you like, otherwise we'll assume that you're okay to continue.