TheRktmn

Sounds like a slipped timing chain. Check #1 cylinder on compression stroke is aligned in distributor cap.

Maybe her lawyer insisted he sell his car and give her half.....

It sounds like you have power on both ring terminals at the meter. Please confirm that one is switched power and the other is going to ground.

I was told that the primer protects the stripped metal and will be block sanded to expose lows and highs in the panels.

Congarats TNFASTBK

It never occurred to me that there was an option other than nursing my tractor all the way over to the shop, or lugging that big old air tank out to the field every time I run over an antler! Yeah, as I get older I get lazier....

I will be leaving tomorrow,. It's about 1400 miles each way. Not bringing anything to sell (don't have anything) but my wife and Dr insist that I need a vacation/time away from the shop. I kept my vendor spot so I have onsite parking and get in on Thursday.

Do you by any chance have a Melling High Volume oil pump? I ask because I broke an Accel distributor shaft in my 351C in the 70's, then went through 3 roll pins in my 460 over 10 years. It was so bad that I started carrying a spare distributor with me. I read somewhere that 335 (351C, 351M, 400M) and 385 series (429,460) engines do not like the high volume oil pumps. I swapped in a stock oil pump a few years ago and have had no problem since....

That's where I would start. The flexplate will flex some but eventually break so you need to take care of the misalignment. My guess is it's hitting the starter snout. I had a weird knocking noise I couldn't find. I finally decided to check for a loose torque converter. Here's what I found Turns out when I pulled the tranny out I also pulled out and lost an alignment dowel. Just that little bit of play allowed around the trans to engine bolts was all it took.

Brake pressure warning light.

From the 71 Shop Manual:

I have used the large, laminated color coded diagrams from Classic Car Wiring for years. https://www.classiccarwiring.com/ https://www.classiccarwiring.com/mustang/

Check that the coil is not wired backwards. I have seen many coils with + (IGN) and - (DIST) posts wired wrong. The car will run that way, but not that well. Easy way to make sure: Take the wires off the coil. Turn on key switch. Wire with voltage goes to positive + (IGN) side of coil. Wire coming from distributor with no voltage goes to negative - (DIST) side of coil. Edit: 20V? Wow!

Reminds me of the old Heathkit antennae mounts for ham radios.