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Everything posted by TheRktmn

  1. I have a Holley on my 460. It is basically a Carter. On my Clevelands I ran a stock pump with an electric for when I was racing.
  2. I ordered, selected Guest rather than give more info to fakebook, selected PayPal and never saw a place to put in my THANKS20 discount code. Oh well, I'll try again next year.
  3. I THINK the differences are: P1 - Works with stock wiring, but can burn out if key is left on with engine off. P2 - Requires 12V feed but has protection against the 'key on' failure. P3 - Same as P2, added multiple spark and rev limiter. Having had to deal with the Pertronix devices with my tach movements I am not a fan of Pertronix Ignitors. Put one on a scope sometime and you will be amazed - voltage swings of 35+ volts at the coil! I switched over to Duraspark II years ago and love it. My second choice would be points.
  4. Welcome aboard, Juan! That is one BEAUTIFUL car! Love the argent accents.
  5. That's exactly the one I have in my '69. My Dad's '66 has a mechanical handle/cable setup.
  6. I don't recommend the billet micro screen type, but if you go that route make sure you have the necessary (probably metric) wrenches to open it on the road when that little screen clogs up.
  7. Over the years I have used Motorcraft, Holley and Edelbrock carbs, MSD, Pertronix, single and dual point ignitions. For street driving, all around performance and reliability I like Summit carbs and Duraspark ignitions.
  8. Wow, thanks guys. This is perfect - I have 6 vehicles, 2 motorcycles and a tractor but can never seem to find a flashlight (other than my cellphone) when I need one.
  9. Are you grounding the spark plug when attached to coil center post?
  10. I've been after one from Lake Motors in Salt Lake City for 20 years. I'm wondering if they even had them - it's cool that you have a picture of one. Will keep my eyes open for yours as well.
  11. Sure do. All I need is the warning light assembly but if it's easier to send the whole thing that's fine too. These pics are a clock, but they show the backing plate and front faceplate that I need.
  12. Urban Dictionary: thalassocratic https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=thalassocratic thalassocratic A god tier sexual maneuver condition where intercourse is achieved over a body of water large enough to define a hypothetical state existing at each partner's terrestrial interface as a thalassocracy, which is itself defined as state whose territories are connected primarily by sea. On a more serious note: Thalassocracy - Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thalassocracy
  13. If it has warning lights or a clock I'd be interested in either of those.
  14. I'm not a fan, but as long as the forum killers known as VerticalScope aren't taking over I can adapt.
  15. I stand corrected. I was thinking of activating a relay or soft switch like the MSD box, not a constant power source.
  16. Depending on the solenoid it is hot during run or when the A/C is on, but not during start. The wire midlife directed you to meets both requirements. You can also tap off the I post of the starter solenoid (same circuit, same function, different place).
  17. Ford used the STA (stator) post on the alternator for a reason. The choke is supposed to open as the engine warms up. If you use a switched source then the choke is heating and opening as long as the key is on. If the engine stalls while warming up it still opens, making the choke useless. The STA post only powers the choke when the engine is running, as an 'automatic' choke was intended to work. Of course there is an ongoing www argument about Edelbrock calling for 12V on their choke and the STA puts out about 1/2 the B+ voltage in A/C form but many have tested it and the STA open
  18. Disconnect the factory wire and run a wire from the battery positive post to the horn. If the horn works correctly you have a low voltage issue, consider adding a relay. (insert shameless plug here: ) https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-relays#horn https://www.npdlink.com/product/relay-kit-horn-makes-your-horns-sound-like/195993/200452 If the horns don't work when 'hot wired' check for a good ground. The horns ground through the mounting bracket to the chassis. Check for paint or corrosion, then retest The horns tend to get dirt and moisture in them
  19. Sounds like the self resetting circuit breaker in the headlight switch is going out. Change the headlight switch.
  20. Last I knew WCCC was buying their boosters from 'Mr Vacuum' up in Canada. I'd be willing to bet they're not married to him. Might be worth a call.
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