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Everything posted by TheRktmn

  1. Sounds like a slipped timing chain. Check #1 cylinder on compression stroke is aligned in distributor cap.
  2. Maybe her lawyer insisted he sell his car and give her half.....
  3. It sounds like you have power on both ring terminals at the meter. Please confirm that one is switched power and the other is going to ground.
  4. I was told that the primer protects the stripped metal and will be block sanded to expose lows and highs in the panels.
  5. It never occurred to me that there was an option other than nursing my tractor all the way over to the shop, or lugging that big old air tank out to the field every time I run over an antler! Yeah, as I get older I get lazier....
  6. I will be leaving tomorrow,. It's about 1400 miles each way. Not bringing anything to sell (don't have anything) but my wife and Dr insist that I need a vacation/time away from the shop. I kept my vendor spot so I have onsite parking and get in on Thursday.
  7. Do you by any chance have a Melling High Volume oil pump? I ask because I broke an Accel distributor shaft in my 351C in the 70's, then went through 3 roll pins in my 460 over 10 years. It was so bad that I started carrying a spare distributor with me. I read somewhere that 335 (351C, 351M, 400M) and 385 series (429,460) engines do not like the high volume oil pumps. I swapped in a stock oil pump a few years ago and have had no problem since....
  8. That's where I would start. The flexplate will flex some but eventually break so you need to take care of the misalignment. My guess is it's hitting the starter snout. I had a weird knocking noise I couldn't find. I finally decided to check for a loose torque converter. Here's what I found Turns out when I pulled the tranny out I also pulled out and lost an alignment dowel. Just that little bit of play allowed around the trans to engine bolts was all it took.
  9. I have used the large, laminated color coded diagrams from Classic Car Wiring for years. https://www.classiccarwiring.com/ https://www.classiccarwiring.com/mustang/
  10. Check that the coil is not wired backwards. I have seen many coils with + (IGN) and - (DIST) posts wired wrong. The car will run that way, but not that well. Easy way to make sure: Take the wires off the coil. Turn on key switch. Wire with voltage goes to positive + (IGN) side of coil. Wire coming from distributor with no voltage goes to negative - (DIST) side of coil. Edit: 20V? Wow!
  11. Reminds me of the old Heathkit antennae mounts for ham radios.
  12. My tach wires like so: Black to ground - you can ground it to the back of the cluster. Red to switched power - you should be able to connect it to the jumper you put on the original tach plug. Green to - side of coil.
  13. That white device is an external ballast resistor. Chances are it was installed for 1 of 2 reasons: 1. The original resistor wire failed. 2. They wanted to get 12V for a Pertronix Ignitor or other device, but still needed reduced voltage to the stock coil. If you are running a Pertonix Ignitor you can power it off the ballast resistor input side (the stud not wired to the coil), and ground it to the block. Note that when using the external ballast resistor you need to run a new non ballasted wire from the ignition switch to the resistor. (in the future, please try not to give tachman credit for my work)
  14. You are using one of my wiring diagrams (Rocketman) to install a Tachman tach? Interesting. The jumper I refer to in my instructions is to connect the two wires in the OEM tach connector to complete the primary circuit from ignition switch to coil +. I would have sent the original tach pigtail back so that you can use it to make the jumper.
  15. I've been running Magnum 500s since 1979 on 4 different vehicles on both street and strip. No issues at all.
  16. NPD has reproductions: No tach: https://www.npdlink.com/product/printed-circuit-dash-gauge/100964?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dprinted%2Bcircuit%2Bassy%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1971&year=1971 With Tach: https://www.npdlink.com/product/printed-circuit-dash-gauge/100965?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dprinted%2Bcircuit%2Bassy%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1971&year=1971
  17. Cut it in half, fold it in half, anything that makes it unusable so they have proof that you are not getting a 2 for 1 deal.
  18. Best ways are to contact Randy at Midlife Harness ( http://midlifeharness.com/ ) and have him redo the cluster wiring and have me convert your ammeter to voltmeter - Randy can help with the wiring there too.
  19. Unresisted (Full 12V) voltage will make the tach inaccurate (read high) and shorten the life of the tach.
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