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Everything posted by TheRktmn

  1. AMK makes kits. https://www.amkproducts.com/master-kits/ford/?product_id=71Z-76D&masterkits=FordMasterKits&element=Interior I picked the first one for the link, but there are more choices.
  2. The tach will read low if you have too much resistance in the primary circuit. Are you running the factory 'pink' wire along with an external ballast resistor, or an aftermarket 3.0 ohm '12V' coil? A list of Pertronix coils and their resistance ratings is here: https://pertronixbrands.com/collections/flame-thrower-canister-coils Normally, running two resistors will effect performance, but high resistance is the main reason both factory tachs would read low.
  3. The 1.5 ohm resistor is to protect the coil/points. During start the circuit has B+ (battery voltage). Since the primary ignition circuit goes through the tach the tach is designed to have that resistor. Without it the tach will read high (and eventually die). If you have a tach reading consistently low you may have an external ballast resistor as well as the OEM 'pink' wire, or one of those MOPAR dual ballast ceramic external resistors that have 1.5 ohms on one side and 5.0 ohms on the other.
  4. Needle would be on or just past E at 10 ohms. 3/4 is about 16 I believe. If the needle does not not max out when disconnected from sender then it's in the sender or gauge. 71-73 have plastic housings so it's not the gauge stud grounding. That leaves sender or printed circuit on back of cluster, but I would expect that to be unaffected by the sender disconnect. Sounds to me like a bad sender.
  5. I rebuilt my FMX back in 79 or 80. I din't remember details, but it was fairly straight forward. I worked in a garage at the time so I had access to tools like an inch pound torque wrench, but I don't remember there being anything crazy hard about it. Why not order the kit and have at it?
  6. It drives me nuts when people don't take the time to twist multi-strand wires before they connect them together. Seriously, how much longer would it have taken to make a decent looking connection. That's just shoddy workmanship. /S
  7. There's a good chance that it's wear on the winder gear shaft. The shaft has spring tension on it and slowly wears it's mounting hole into a groove. The gear gets cockeyed and the clock stops. Is there any wobble/play in the main gear that winds? If not then you may get lucky and only need a good clean & lube.
  8. Sounds like a slipped timing chain. Check #1 cylinder on compression stroke is aligned in distributor cap.
  9. Maybe her lawyer insisted he sell his car and give her half.....
  10. It sounds like you have power on both ring terminals at the meter. Please confirm that one is switched power and the other is going to ground.
  11. I was told that the primer protects the stripped metal and will be block sanded to expose lows and highs in the panels.
  12. It never occurred to me that there was an option other than nursing my tractor all the way over to the shop, or lugging that big old air tank out to the field every time I run over an antler! Yeah, as I get older I get lazier....
  13. I will be leaving tomorrow,. It's about 1400 miles each way. Not bringing anything to sell (don't have anything) but my wife and Dr insist that I need a vacation/time away from the shop. I kept my vendor spot so I have onsite parking and get in on Thursday.
  14. Do you by any chance have a Melling High Volume oil pump? I ask because I broke an Accel distributor shaft in my 351C in the 70's, then went through 3 roll pins in my 460 over 10 years. It was so bad that I started carrying a spare distributor with me. I read somewhere that 335 (351C, 351M, 400M) and 385 series (429,460) engines do not like the high volume oil pumps. I swapped in a stock oil pump a few years ago and have had no problem since....
  15. That's where I would start. The flexplate will flex some but eventually break so you need to take care of the misalignment. My guess is it's hitting the starter snout. I had a weird knocking noise I couldn't find. I finally decided to check for a loose torque converter. Here's what I found Turns out when I pulled the tranny out I also pulled out and lost an alignment dowel. Just that little bit of play allowed around the trans to engine bolts was all it took.
  16. I have used the large, laminated color coded diagrams from Classic Car Wiring for years. https://www.classiccarwiring.com/ https://www.classiccarwiring.com/mustang/
  17. Check that the coil is not wired backwards. I have seen many coils with + (IGN) and - (DIST) posts wired wrong. The car will run that way, but not that well. Easy way to make sure: Take the wires off the coil. Turn on key switch. Wire with voltage goes to positive + (IGN) side of coil. Wire coming from distributor with no voltage goes to negative - (DIST) side of coil. Edit: 20V? Wow!
  18. Reminds me of the old Heathkit antennae mounts for ham radios.
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