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Fabrice

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Fabrice last won the day on May 18

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About Fabrice

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    73 Grande 351C
    71 Mach 1 429CJ

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    The Netherlands
  • Region
    Europe

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    Male

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  1. What is the stamp on the heads? They should be DOOE-R if the engine is from a CJ car.
  2. I'm sure it will be ok. The good news is that may you need to replace, it's relatively cheap and an easy fix to do. For now, forget about it and enjoy what's left of the good driving season with your good looking new shoes! :D
  3. @bishoppeak Thx, found same one in a NL online shop for same price, will order that baby. I need check first if it can handle 1mm wire tho. @Kilgon Thx, I'm pretty pleased too. Tho, I must say the colours these metallic greys have in real are extremely hard to be photographed. It's even a bit frustrating nobody will see that once the wheels are on :D @rio1856 Oh that's nice!! I think I will play with different options once I'll have the twisting tool and wire in house. It's totally overkill and not better than the original way for the purpose, but it surely looks much nicer! Thanks for posting this! @Manu Mach1 You'll do much better than me in no time I'm sure!
  4. Timken is also manufacturing over here, same good reputation as far as I know, but somehow they did not have the ref to deliver and I had to order as usual in the states to have the right parts. I don't think outsourcing perse means lesser quality. Moog is similar. As long as they do not cut into specs. I don't really care about where that comes from and there should be no diff in quality. Surely wish. as they play global, that they would ensure you can at least order US specs from here. Off topic but in regard to your comment, If there is one US company that grows fast up in my book atm it's Sonnax. Bought few parts for my trans and a yoke from them and was really impressed with the quality of the stuff they delivered. Something really refreshing.
  5. Thank you Chuck, that's what I was looking for... So what was on the car was ok... Even if they were doing the job, they looked as if done by a 9 years old just like these. I should manage then :D
  6. Past weekend was dry, warm... Sooooo: barbecue time!! All the new parts that I've received over past months were either not coated, simply oiled or covered with some poor paint. None had of course the kind of finish I had in mind for them. So spend a good part of my saturday cleaning & degreasing them and mask/tape all the parts I could not remove, rubbers, threads etc.. Then just like the restored parts, they did receive a primer, their respective colors and a nice thick finish coat. Sunday was like xmas, lots to unwrap and it was even time to put some stuffs together, install nipples etc... Reassembled the spindles done last weeks with ther hardware plated last year. Installed all back together after a good cleaning and copper greasing of each thread. Was lots of work to get there, zinc plating them was not the easiest thing to do. But now, boy do they not look like a million??! :D Yes these are the same!! :D I know btw I need some wires for their nuts, Anyone have some info on how it should be done the right way? Never done that before, but really would love to have them "twisted" the right secure way. I will buy some SS wire for that asap. Then it was time to put the top arms together... 50 years old and looking goooood :D Then it was time to put all these babies together back into their original nest that is now making a nice contrast with its semi gloss black. Nothing torqued to specs yet until all is on.. Also gave love to the koni's that were plated last year and gave them the car body color (no red), that will look nice into the light grey coils that were done last week... All with all, it was nice to finally see all the work started last novembre come together! The other side fx is that I could get rid of many boxes and create some welcome space. One regret is that the long part that connects both sides (rod assembly, the drag link I think is the name) is still at a friend's place where it needs to go under press to correct the bow into it created at some point when someone jacked up the car with it... No biggy tho, as once I will have the steering box revised, i will need to paint it as well, so will do both at the same time. to be continued...
  7. I would start by using races/bearings of good hard metal quality. Timken for instance. Affordable and reliable. Well lubricated there should be no noticeable wear when torqued first time to specs for thousands of miles. Even for wider tires. Tho, during first 100 miles it would make sense to check if there is no play. Also make sure you use new hardware for the retainer. They are cheap. Also and I've seen it on my 71, make sure you have the dust cover on that is ment to keep the grease. Personally if a "wobble" would be present after more than 500 miles since install, I would consider change them again asap as they have likely created some lows into the race that will fail sooner than you want, even if re-torquing fixes for now.
  8. thx for sharing, really curious to see how these goodies will fit and function. Good luck with the install
  9. @bishoppeak thx man, you gotta sweat a bit extra but that's what the hobby is about me think! @Sheriff41 More to come i'm afraid :D @mach71351c thx, if the details helps only one person, then it's all worth it! @timachone I couldn't let you have much nicer ones than mine any longer! I had to finally handle these too! :D
  10. I'm more old school all bling bling polished wheels minded for our rides, but these fit your car as gloves! Really nice. Michelin is not exactly a bad brand when it comes to tires! They are not cheap but you know you can trust them to keep the car on the road. Had some on my first t-bird and I've really regretted the move to another brand. One last thing to do: update your signature to show off the nice new shoes :D
  11. Been busy past few weekends and did not post anything.. Time to rectify that! :D On the 73 front, Received my needed parts for the swap, like a 2500 stall speed locked Hugues converter, A beautifull Sonnax forged yoke 28 spline. And also got my radiator lines back from my fav local shop. The ones I have now on the FMX will be transfered onto the C6... Along with the Sonnax yoke came a new Moog 1310 u-joint to match on trans side the yoke and the other the axle shaft. As I will drive to a friend 50 miles away to do the swap on his lift, I want to have most prepped done so that most can be done fast. So installing the u-joint on this very very nice yoke was next on the todo. Well, I've changed many time u-joints, but never had to deal with such tight tolerances. The Sonnax yoke is really a beautifully machined piece, the down side is to install the joints it's not easy at all. Only managed to have one side in, and will need a press to finish the other side. I might start over and leave the u-joint in fridge for a couple of hours. The weather was too nice (unbelievable after months of rains) to waste it on this alone... Because my 73 has an offenhauser intake with a Sniper on top, the original bracket wasn't aligned. So during the sniper install I had to modify the throttle bracket to receive the kickdown cable. Ended up as a 2 pieces, no probs on itself, but because the AOD TV cable really needs to be set properly, I thought it was time to make a solid one piece one. So removed the one I had, and compared the one I already did for my 429. It became obvious after some measurements that it would need to be much stronger than the 429 version, because the base is much more central on the engine... A few templates further, I went for a one piece fold, carefully picking each side I could fold to allow enough space to fold the next. Once the shape in place, it was time to aluminium solder it and finish it with a sanding and polishing session. Now I got the throttle bracket I wanted: a solid one piece unit! :D Another problem that needed be addressed was my brakes still sticking... the only part left over that could create a problem was my booster. So as no booster were to be ordered from here. All asking for a shipping of the core, the repair and the shipping back, I decided to use the 9'' booster that I bought last year to replace the 71 one. Made by Leed, it comes with the 2 rods you find on 71 and 72-73. So after a tiring gym session under dash, removed the old one and install that baby. As I had now a spare master cyl and the 71 firewall exposed, as no gasket was provided, made a template and cut a rubber sheet. Dialed the push rod. The unit looks very small in there now, but I must say that creates some welcome space there!! Most importantly, I took the car for a ride of a dozen of miles, used the brakes hard and when back, I could notice a significant improvement. The rotor were under 100c and wheel was turning. Not as free as I'd like tho, there is still drag, but nowhere near where it was. At this point, considering all is new, I think I need wait a bit till the pads have lost a tad of their thickness to completely free the rotor. All I know is that I now go for a ride with a laser thermometer and check. The smell of hot brakes is now gone.... so I'll leave it at it for now... As for my 2 boosters (71 and 73), I'm about to order the required parts that our local David has managed to find. So I'll be busy restoring 2 boosters myself as the current way these can be restored is simply too expensive to be performed from Europe using that shipping core procedure. On the 71 front, the parts plated end of last year, were next on the todo: well protected by the zinc layer, they were still pristine and needed only some dust removal to receive first a layer of epoxy, followed by a water sanding pass the next day. Not super detailed, but just to end up with a more satisfying smooth result later on and minimise the chance for dust to settle and collect moisture over time on a rough surface. Then a thin layer of primer. For my 71, I have selected 3 greys for the parts (sorry originality lovers), and so painted each series in their own grey. Finally they received their final jacket in the form of a thick clear coat layer for optimum protection and ease of cleaning in the future. Pretty happy to see how all these original once rusty parts ended up! Next weekend, i'll paint the new parts that came with cheapo black paint like the lower arms etc... After that I could even think about reinstalling a few things on the car to create space in my near explosion garage :D Last but not least, the Lokar kit designed for AOD was as expected another joke (look just at the bracket in circle.. not even able to match the hole of the trans that they are supposed to be made for... not to mention you would not be in line either even if you'd mod that thingy). I knew it as it's my third Lokar cable surgery, I keep buying these simply because I do like their stainless sleeves and cables and could not find it here. For the rest really, the stuff that they provide is so off or/and of such poor quality it's ridiculous. The tv cable is sure to fail sooner or later if you trust/mod what they provide. In fact I saw afterwards that the stuff they provided for this specific application the exact same was as on the KD cable of my C6!! I really don't get that company. Anyway, I knew it, I had the spring and cable I needed, so modified the original TV lever, which turned out to be super strong (made me use big guns and mig weld in the end to get it done), to allow the cable stop to be kept in a small 1/2 hole to reduce wear, made another bracket to ensure all was aligned, making sure that the linkage that is now placed up in trans to allow the mustang shifter would not touch and work without any further mods (tho I might need move the other pivot up or down, but i'll know that for sure on swap day). Made a double reinforced/soldered custom little bracket to make sure it would handle a far greater tension than it should ever have to handle. Plated all the mods and ended up with a satisfying functioning and looking mechanism! Me very happy and already forgot all about Lokar's provided crap :D I did many more details on the 71 too, but will post on them later on when I'll start put some stuffs back on the car and finally have that swap done... To be continued...
  12. Yes, tho, now days with the environment laws, recycling investments they must do, most these companies use more or less the same stuffs. Unlike a decade or more ago. And if they'd ruin cars on regular basis, considering it's mainly done on cars worthy to be saved and often pricey, rare. I don't think they'd be long in business if they were damaging the structural integrity of these cars.
  13. Like a total nutcase, I sometimes talk to my cars while alone in garage busy on them, but never gave them any name. I use "green lady" sometimes when I say to friends I took my 73 for a spin... but having a second green lady in the making, I realise I'll have an issue soon and might need give them a name after all ! :D As you guys gave them/it a name, did you push and mark them with it? Painted, sticker, engraved??
  14. Man that's terrible! So unlucky, what a nightmare! Hope you'll get better fast my friend!
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