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Fabrice last won the day on October 12

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About Fabrice

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  • My Car
    73 Grande 351C
    71 Mach 1 429CJ


  • Location
    The Netherlands
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  1. I'd like one too, just like Manu, also in the sexy european guys XL!
  2. Looking safe to me! Meanwhile mailed Rockauto as I bought it there and Lares. Rockauto, has some kind of retard in charge of replying to the mails, all he does is checking if order number fits the return policy. What you type has no influence on his brain and he simply copy paste the same "sorry too late" message he pastes whole day long. No reply from Lares.
  3. The one above is a LARES 201 {#31015, 7828871} The pins indeed have the same length as the original. To illustrate your 180 degree comment, here a pict with the two next to each other with that rotation wrong while the other side (see above) looks the same.
  4. Apologies for helping is not allowed in my book! :D After reading it, I recall now I thought back then I should take some notes knowing I'd need one. Guess I forgot like too many things these days! :O Had a quick txt exchange with @Vinnie about this and was thinking about replacing the pins by custom ones. Baffles me that you start the production of parts like these in fairly big numbers without even checking on the cars you make them for! I like the sleeve solution used in that thread. Less work and should be alright if pressed tight. Also thought about another option to somehow keep the old coupler metal and replace just the rubber, but that would work only if the pins are threaded at least on the old one, which is a big question mark. If heat was not a problem, welding would be easy.. Meanwhile, I'll contact Rockauto about this, because it's really not a good practice or even safe to sell important parts like this that you can't install without modification. Even if the design is a fail safe and the pins not that important while the rubber is fine, the smaller hole in flange will not accept the radius of the smaller one anyway. So this part should not be sold for our cars. I have found and ordered a similar kit this morning and even another set with stainless clips that will prolly be nicer with my SS lines. Thanks for the link Tim @Manu Mach1 You can also buy a gasket sheet and make a template. The external shape is the spindle flat surface. The center circle is easy to be cut with a sharp cutter blade and bits of focus. No need for high precision as they are mainly necessary for vibrations and damp the sound the dust shield would otherwise make. For the bolts holes, I use a small tube that I've sharpened on a drill, and I simply slam cut them. Works perfectly and that way you have confettis ready for the next party! :D
  5. No. This abomination should be made there, sold there and no where else! :D
  6. Best is place the extreme M and G, then temp tape the others and judge/move them by feeling to obtain some nicely balanced spacing The eye decides.. no ruler here Also I won't be surprised the G is bits higher as most glyphs like a Q or O are having extra size so they do not appear visually smaller. That to say, as these are capitals, align them from the center vs base otherwise the G would be too high
  7. The less you extend them, the better and in fact using the needle trick, only the thickness of the needle is added and its less distorting the material if you bridge, as once in lower region, its diameter is smaller than for instance if I'd come over the piston diameter as the pict may suggest where it will then become the diameter of the part plus its own thickness and that for a relatively long time. The most important thing to remember is that they expend a bit but unlike o-rings they do not return to their original volume as fast if at all. Making it a true pain to insert them into the bore with no to very little chamfer to guide them in IF you even manage to insert them without damaging them (watch a few vids on utube and look at how damaged some went back in). The big one behind the big cap passed in really on last minute before go plan B! Plan B is also something I've learned and did on the AOD, which is to give the ring the expected size, then freeze it for 3 to 4 hours and then install. On AOD's and newer its almost mandatory as there is not even enough tolerance for a ring compressor. So if I did not have succeeded fast, I would have compressed the circumference of the ring. I think plastic tape 2 or 3 times around with bits of tension would do the trick. Then when you install, the ring has less than the inside bore size and all goes in like a letter by the post. I know my AOD pistons went in that way and it was really a piece of cake to install. Once returning to ambient temperature, they expend back again to their destination size slightly above the bore size.
  8. Weekend! Because weather was on the cold and wet side (again), no cruising :( Instead, i've returned to the Saginaw gear thingy... Unbeleivable how many parts are pushed into that thing!!! No matter what, everything needs to go out and be cleaned before even think about how you're gonna put all these back together! At some point, totally high of the cleaning thinner. All the parts inspected, sorted, cleaned and some even plated. You end up with a nice puzzle and it's time to scratch you head about where to start to put it all back together! Thx to 2 manuals, the sheet that came with the rebuild kit and some videos of more recent but similar units on youtube, I've spend the afternoon putting it back together. I won't cover in details, but know that there are 24 bearing balls for the endless worm and these turned out to be different. Each having a different colour and they need come back in an alternated pattern. On the videos that I saw it was obvious, on this unit, much less, so make sure to clean them and their yellowish patina before reinstall and keep them in different containers. Also on none of the doc I had or saw there was anything about how to put them back except it was told it was a "biatchy" experience. Most doc was saying, use tool #whatever without showing it or use a fuel rubber line, plenty jelly etc... So what I did is install the worm with plenty goo and piston without them, rotate the piston to have access to the holes, and with the worm on the farthest position, pushed them in, not forgetting the pattern while slowly turn the shaft. "Was it a dark or shiny ball I just pushed back in??" was a question returning every 2 or 3 balls! Dang it I get older! :D Eventually got them all back in, and the last remaining 8 need to be placed into the bridge (still in the alternated fashion), the bracket and screw secured and the piston can be turned back to the point where the teeth for the section shaft are visible and center. I told that before: using assembly goo made for transmission made a massive difference and became a third hand at times. I've used of course plenty ATF oil as well to make sure all was nicely lubricated. One trick I've learned from my AOD rebuild experience during the servicing of the governor nylon rings is to use a sewing needle to insert them which acting as a guide makes easy to go over the grooves you do not want to populate, because of course, as learned on the trans, they go into these and they do not want to get out easy... This unit has 4 and they come on top of o-rings. For the rear piston, inserting the big nylon ring is easy and can be done by hand, but for worm side, you have 3 grooves with each an o-ring and 3 nylons, lots of fun! The less you distord them the better and that's when it's time to push all these into the bore that you really appreciate the savings on the distortions using this little trick... The kit I've used came with all the necessary o-ring, snap rings, seals and on the exception of the cover o-ring one that comes as a nice metal plate that once folded will allow you to install the cover and remove it with ease (because during fine tuning you need remove the cover a couple of times (because you're getting old and you forgot to check the alignment of the teeth or forgot to add more oil before close). All were, at least using this kit, spot on regarding sizes and near perfect replicas of the originals. May the bushings show play/wear, you can order these separated or buy a more extended kit. Mine being in excellent condition, shaft with zero play and no visible damage, I saw no reason to go through their replacement. Once you have said a few bad words every now and then, cut your finger tip on the sharp bore inside and swore again because you used that bloody tip again while using thinner, let a ball fall on the ground because you can't hold it good using the wrong finger and spend 15 minutes locating it much further away than you'd thought possible. You end up with a not looking too bad Saginaw gear! :D Reinstalling it in the car with the restored hardware with the previously prepped pitman arm was a breeze and all connected nicely with the rest of the steering parts without a single bad word being said!! :D Tho that was for just a short moment as I found out that the coupler ordered by Rockauto wasn't the right one... So now need to contact them and see if they have the right one. And also noticed that the column is not only having a massive play, the coupler plate it's not moving up or down making the install of any coupler possible... something I did not remark a few months back as I took both coupler and gear out together. Soooo, without the right coupler and that stubborn column that will need inspection, my plan to roll the car to the street, turn it and start work on interior/floor rear is delayed... grumblegrrrr Oh well, that's part of the game! :D Oh and asked that already in a separated thread a while back but go no answer, so asking here again... I have bought classic tube stainless brake lines as they are so affordable it makes no sense to even think about making custom ones... But for some reasons, they do not come with holders. So restored for now the original ones that were really rusty so i can install. I would love to know where I could buy some new ones ( or at least the right name so I could et results of my searches). And also where to find the square nylon nuts that are pressed into the radiator support that holds the front healights brackets. Anyway, that's it for this update. Glad that the steering gear is done. It was more work than anticipated! To be continued...
  9. I dislike that huge bumper, but lets be honest, after such nice massage, it looks gorgeous! Well done!
  10. On mac preview (default PDF reader), I see just now that the table of content that came on by default if present in the file was relocated and made optional. Guess I did not had the use for it for a while since MacOS update. The old monkey me stands corrected! Thanks for the pict, it reactivated my brain and will save me scrolling fun! :O
  11. No more problems to open the files yes, but it's a big long long long loooooong pdf. The 71 manual from them for instance is 1691 pages pdf... I don't get why a company with manuals/doc as core business offer these that way. They could at least offer an interactive table of content in the pdf at the top vs stoopid copy-paste of paper scans exported from Word or similar amateur tools. It takes ages to locate a part you want to read about. I guess it's me being an old monkey again! Sorry for that! :D
  12. That might be true in the states, but over here, noone is that picky on details simply because these cars are so rare and totally unknown. If the VIN says it's a desirable model and the car is in good condition it will bring as much bit modified as in original state if not more. I see often very basic models go for the price of greatly optioned ones simply because they look great, have a nice pair of wheels and a chrome air filter cover!
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