Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Fabrice

  1. I like Foose's one.. that'd be the only one that would allow me to enter my driveway without touching.
  2. Let me rephrase then: Gonna save some money for a new fan, not get rid of it but use as nice wall deco. Oh and we have no junk yards with US cars anyone over here.Ok? :D
  3. I have a Derale flex, bought long ago in the 90's. As i've seen a few times notices about the way flex type could develop over time as dangerous things. I've inspected mine a couple of times, and at this point in time/use, I'd say looks like not every flex fan are/were made same way. I keep an eye on it but mine shows no sign metal defect or play at rivets or anything indicating something could go south any moment. I have no cooling issues at all with it either, no clutch needed at least for now. That having said, I know my 429 will get a clutch, the original fan is some serious baby that doesn't need to turn when cold for sure. Both my t-birds 5.0 had these clutches and I know they are very effective. Even liked the sound they made. Thanks for the links, I've bookmarked that Hayden clutch for my next rockauto order, need to check first if they'd fit for a 429...
  4. true story, not a week old. If you're having a leaking rear end and problems with brakes to solve, at some point you need to bleed the brakes system again (just celebrated the 5th time in a month last weekend) I usually ask my wife to pump the pedal while I go thru the 4 nippels while keeping an eye on the level after each one. Last weekend, it was pumping time again. So while me laying under the car, she was behind the steering wheel talking with our neighbour's wife thru the open window.... me: Pump please...[ noises of pumping ] a few secs pass... me: Dang it, I must have a leak somewhere or mc is dead, nothing comes out me: Pump faster, deeper please [ faster pumping noise ] me: You can stop no change, no fluid coming out thru the connected hose. Stood up and went at the mc check the level. me: I don't understand what's going on, nothing happen, level is unchanged.. what on earth is going on?! neighbour's wife: I see this thing moving back and forth when she pumps, pointing at the accelerator linkage...
  5. Make sense, gonna look at this this weekend. Yes I did.. actually these were my first suspects even before change the callipers, hardware, flexibel etc... Yeah, but trust me this isn't normal. it's draaAAag as if someone feathers the brake pedal when I turn the wheel. Plus I would not get hot wheels after a few miles if this was normal. I'm gonna check if that valve is present first as Chuck suggested. If not, in about 2 weeks when here, i'm gonna replace the mc and hopefully be a happy man again! I'll update this thread then.
  6. @Stanglover I have now tried different settings on the rod. On the last 2, one measured, pedal felt fine and all fine while driving. And last test was screwed up on purpose with the rod being much shorter. So when you start, you feel its wrong. pedal goes in smooth and then you feel hard resistance as if like you've lost assistance. At this length, it's clearly not pushing enough and primary piston should then have no problem to return to rest position. I have 1 hour ago moved the car a tad, and freed the mc from booster again and checked wheel. Drag is there. So I think I can eliminate the rod or booster being the bad guy. On mine, looks like set at exact length minus a 1/4 turn, all feels alright at the pedal. A tiny bit of drag or a friction noise could be alright, especially with new brakes, but here it's not tiny, you need to push/pull to turn the wheel and if I make it turn faster and let go, it stops right away. All even, no matter the rotation. Heat is ok for a short test drive, but if I drive just a few miles, then wheel is getting hot. Not something acceptable or normal at all. Tired of it, ordered a new master cyl at rockauto, they are cheapo enough to be considered as loss may it be for nothing and I can keep the car movable vs dismantel the mc now. The current was ordered a very long time ago at a dutch shop and was installed years ago but as car wasn't ready to drive it stood still only used once in a while to move the car. It's only since Januari when I started drive that I've noticed the problem. Since then, I keep checking/replacing but at this point I'm out of ideas and out of parts to check! Frankly this starts to work on my nerves... sooo another 2 weeks waiting and no driving till next test with new MC.
  7. Ok, so first turns out mine had the nut as if it was welded. No way to make it turn in the car, So had to remove it, after some massage, clean and all greased went back in. Went first testing with bits deeper without measuring as on car with poor light it was not doable. This morning made a test drive. Not working as before, I feel I needed push more at low speed. MC loose again, this time I got sunny day light and nuts turning, so adjusted to distance and brake felt same. Did it again, this time screwed it with more lack. Clearly not ok, but certain the rod would no longer apply pressure at rest. To be clear, I try this because with new brakes in front and back. new callipers, new flexibels, new proportioning valve, 80% new lines and of course new fluid, but I still have some drag. If after a drive I lift a wheel, it doesn't turn freely. Not much power is needed to rotate by hand, but it ain't free as it should be. If I drive a bit more and use the brakes on purpose much more, as the fluid expends because of heat, same, all feels ok while driving but lifting one of the wheel shows the drag even increases a bit and more force is required to turn the wheel by hand. When i've serviced the front brakes, all was fine till I drove it. Noticing the drag, i've removed them again, and pushed back the calliper piston. Pressing the pedal stops the wheel and releases pressure as it should. No issue with the wheel bearing either. wheel turns with zero drag. The brakes otherwise perform very well, smooth but ferm pedal and feel strong. Stops the car at any speed with ease. So at this point I think the mc is faulty. tho installed years ago, It's a new one. I think now that the primary piston doesn't travel back fully once its been pushed to a certain depth. Anyone has other idea on what could be causing this drag? I start become tired of purging my brakes :D
  8. Thx bentworker. Great news! Anything I should know about doing this? Measuring the distance from base mc to its piston and reduce the current to that max is obvious, but is there a by the book way? For instance, does the entire rod needs to be screwed back in or is there some kind of hat screwed on it? Also as there is no pressure issue when booster has no vaccum, do I need measure with engine on? edit: I read I need be shorter. between 1/16 and 1/8 of play at rest.
  9. Now that my rear end is fixed and not expecting it to leak again for a long while I've returned to the the AOD rebuild joys.. Aside the casing that is now as new, only the pump was in need of love to be as new both on the inside as the outside. All hardware is now done too.. I won't go into the details of the AOD rebuild, but in this case, because it was in very good shape inside, it's all about cleaning, removing rings and rings and rings and when you're done, it's about put all these rings back and cover all in trans oil or Mr goo (which i highly recommend) or both ! :D And of course watch the great guiding videos from Ken at badshoe.com The AOD is much more complicted than a C6, but if you take your time it's no rocket science, especially when Ken got your back. I've ended the weekend with all back in, all new but I keep the complex valve body for next weekend. I need prep the space first for it as it's full of dozens of tiny valves and springs.... One detail tho... If you have done an automatic trans like a c4, c6, fmx, you know you need to change the pistons seals of all the clutches. On these transmissions, the seals are square cuts, and it's all about lubing them, engage the piston and push. Even on some where you have special ring seal tools a bit of patience and a good push can get you there. In a C6 the chamfer in the drums is making the install a breeze and I do not see why you'd need to use any tool. However, the AOD, AODE, 4r70W and more newer trans are using lip seals type for the pistons. Even worse, the drums, at least the cast version for these are not having a chamfer to help guide the lip into the bore. because the cast is quite sharp too, trying not only will fail, but you will damage/cut the seal for sure. So only way to get them in, is to use seal pushers. basically a cup in which you push the piston with seal inside and because it's just a bit smaller in diameter than the bore, the seal gets compressed against the piston and you have to push real hard to get the piston in, and sometimes even harder times to remove the tool as in some case, it's beyond max space and the seal can even get damaged when you remove it. A good set of seal installer, not really cheap for a one time use, is even a must on newer trans as the tolerances are very tight... That's when Ken comes to the rescue. With the rebuild kit comes a set of very simple, yet very smart 3d printed "sizers" for just a few extra buxx. They do like the regular seal installers that have been around forever, work same way. You push the piston and seal into a wide cup, that reduces its diamater on it's base and once the piston is in. That's where the similarities ends: It's time to freeze them! After at least 2 hours, you can push the piston out of this cup and the lip seal keeps its compressed position. With totally zero need to push, you then simply drop them inside. After a couple of minutes, they are souple again, and the lip seals perfectly. No efforts to install and what makes them totally superior to the classic way: no damage to the seal as they never get compressed in own thickness. Thumbs up to Ken for these! Hope to finish the trans next weekend. After that I'll resume activities on the 71, as Summit has some delay for my converter, yoke and other swap related items.
  10. I still have drag on my wheels. Not much effort needed to let them turn by hand, but not free as they should. If the car has not be driven for a couple of days, no drag when I test. After small drives of couple of minutes the problem returns. I'm now pretty sure the rod of the booster is the bad guy and is still applying a tad of pressure at rest. The booster is the original one, the mc is a repop/rebuilt, so question is: (before I take a look next weekend) is the original rod adjustable? if not, what are my options?
  11. @TheDude I like the mini scoop on that flat hood. To me, and I mean here in general, no matter the shape you go for. I really do not see the point on having a scoop that does not work. I mean, to make/do it right, there is lots of metal works involved, so ending up with a thing that just adds drag, would not cut it for me. On the other hand a custom one that does work.... wow! ;)
  12. Soo much work... glad I have an AOD rebuild break, seen engine bay only every weekend for the past 6 months! Looking good Tim! What are the 3 nuts/rivets you have on the passenger front apron? The retainer on top is for the regulator I guess?
  13. I think you could try a shackle kit, they come in different length. I have one on my 73. I wanted just a tad higher too, one inch ish. Its not the one I have, mine is made of much thicker metal, but you get the idea. https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-3-Position-Rear-Spring-Shackle/dp/B07F2T1F7M
  14. yeah, amazing how miss leading the sound of metal to metal can be.... Hope @BigBlue will find and tell us... Wonder what the winner's price is too!
  15. You are so right! Glad you take my remark exactly how it was ment! I really need to buy dark shades and drive more :D
  16. Looks awesome, love that stance! The only thing I don't understand, is how you can mount such beautiful pieces on such rusty towers. Wish I could do this at times. The reason you drive and me push my cars around :D
  17. Waited a month to get my parts from NPD, waited 4 for my AOD parts and last week along with other small orders like oil, paint etc... all came within 2 days. So as my 73 is being still for more than a month on my driveway and we had the first sunny, non-cold-dry weekend of the year. I wanted fix that rear end... For the record, +- 15 years ago, when the 73 was in garage in parts, not having the knowledge and the confidence I have these days when it comes to our car, I decided to let a pro rebuild my 9 inch traction lock with fresh 3:50 teeth.. I never drove it till end of last year when car was finally road worthy and put 4 or 5 hundred miles on it since then. Because it's been revised by a professional company doing only rear ends and trans, having such a massive leak on my brakes must be a sign that something went badly wrong inside... May be some corrosion after so many years still had occur? So to be prepared I had ordered by NPD: bearings, sealing plates. Not knowing how many splines, ordered 2 sets of seals of 2 sizes as there are on our babies 2 kinds. both 2.25 outer one for 28, the other for 31 splines axles where the diameter is a tad wider for the 31 and of course new shoes as they have been soaked for weeks into gear oil, no brake cleaner would have restored that... After using 2 cowboys tricks that worked extremely well and fast which otherwise would have required expensive tools to remove both the axle and the seal deep inside. I've ended up looking at a perfect axle.. The bearing that were supposed to be replaced were new as expected, zero play, marks on the casing showed the perfect sitting. The axle had no marks of damage/wear. The vent tube of the axle was free, oil level within range with the additive and the seal was looking alright so overpressure was out of order. Inspected the seal before removal into the casing and closer after it was removed. Lip/spring was as new. WHY IS IT LEAKING THEN????? Well, it took the hobbyist that I am a good 1/2 hour to inspect and check everything to find out that the professional had installed the wrong seal type. They had installed the 31 splines type which ofc has a bigger inner radius... raaaaaaaaa!!! No wonder it started to leak!! As I had also a set for 31 splines axles, compared them and confirmed. So for the entire weekend, I've been swearing under the surprisingly warm sun, put back the axle with the proper seal, put new shoes on (oh boy do I hate servicing drums brakes!!! Always been a pain for me). And knowing what I knew, I had to do the other side as well because chances were high they would have done the same on the other side... Once it was out: bingo! Same mistake, at least this company was consistant! So serviced that faulty seal too and replaced the practically new shoes that were on with new ones. While underneath, also reinstalled my good old traction bars that I've restored. I wasn't planning to reinstall them, but as I could feel they weren't there anymore in the corners, I've placed them back. While busy on the brakes, I've replaced the proportioning valve and bled the entire system with new fluid. I've finished the weekend at 22:00 after replacing the engine oil. Too late to start the loud v8 without waking up the young kids next door. I'll check the car and take it for a spin somewhere this week. Once more, this experience shows that trusting a professional on this side of the pond isn't perse a good idea, no matter the reputation they have. Our cars are simply too old, too exotic for most shops over here and it's easy for them to make mistakes just as we make them! Oh well, my muscles are crying from this driveway crawling weekend, but it's corrected now! Next weekend: AOD joys! To be continued...
  18. On first video I thought it was my wife when I do mustang stuff vs house stuff, but after carefully listening to the second, I could rule that one out... I don't think it's a rotating item, bits too irregular vs engine speed and vote as well for external non mechanical item. I'd start by checking engine mounts, then anything that can touch the engine, exhaust header a tad against PS gear would sing nicely... and follow exhaust on both sides after trans for clearance. as you have disconnected all on front, you could use a thick blanket and hear if that absorbs some sound, repeat per side..
  19. The main infection was in their Florida warehouse, with over 20 positive cases. 3 in critical condition in hospital, and one who passed away. They had a replacement team but it also contracted the virus. It's only around mid May that they were able to resume international shipping with reduced personnel, a pile of orders to process ofc, it took them over a month to have mine processed, and last week they shipped it with extra fast UPS, package was at my door in 4 days! This virus is terrible. We are officially approaching the 4 millions deaths, and that's the official numbers. When you see the latest news in India alone, you know the numbers are way off...
  20. Wow, what a beautiful piece of equipment! What kind of spring compressor must you use for these?
  21. If you don't find them, use a short, say 3 inches wrench and tight them up with one hand so you're sure you won't over torque that gasket. Assuming here that you're not a bodybuilder! :D and that a bolt is not loose either. A small extra increment on the bolt rotation using that short wrench will do just fine. You will feel the force required unlike with a ratchet. The idea is to sandwich the gasket evenly, not trying to flatten it. As it leaks, try also, even if it's easy to say when your nose is not touching the pan, to jump one bolt and not tight 2 next to each other in one go. Alternating sides in a cross fashion even better. Again, don't over think it, that little extra will probably do just fine. We're all the same :D
  22. Try push that right pedal a tad more, usually fixes :D
  23. Just go tight these bolts now otherwise you won't have a good night rest! :D
  24. I've changed mine on my driver side, using this inexpensive solution. I think it was from NPD. The bronze cups were of the right diameter, and only thing you need to do is cut the pins once installed as they were a tad too long for my taste. I've searched but can't find back the thread that was a couple of years back on this. But recall in that thread that there were also pins avail with own greasing, made of great materials made to last. I've used also these for my t-bird and it's when I've let it go may be 10 years later of daily use that I've noticed some play was back. So if the mustang is not your daily, they should do fine for a very long time.
  • Create New...