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Everything posted by Fabrice

  1. Twice they delivered wrong or unacceptable parts. One was a 429 fan shroud, it was so poorly made it was ridiculous. it was delivered with the old packaging of Mac's antiques. Both times they did refund me (not the import fees). Not planning to order again from this company anytime soon.
  2. Me neither, will need do something similar as you did.
  3. Just curious, what do you mean exactly? What parts are a nightmare to find ? Or do you mean it's hard to get them at delivered at your door?
  4. There was tape around it so it was safe!! :D
  5. Slowly but surely installing some parts back on my 71, I came across a few details.. 1/ What should I use to seal the wipers mechanism (the two rotating bits) once installed back into the cowl? I recall some sticky substance when I've removed them. 2/ I've received an idler arm from moogs that differs from the original quite a bit. The new one comes with 3 foam washers. 2 are of same thickness (AC) (say, 8mm/0.314961inches) and one thicker (D), more like 13mm/0.511811. A small washer D. My restore drag link has the long bolt that goes thru the tube, a thick washer and a securing nut. Looking at the old one I should do: side 1: A, the draglink bolt thru tube, then B, then the thick original washer, then nut on side 2: the idler arm balljoint, C, D go thru the bracket and nut? not really sure.. could really use some help on that one. 3/ sleeves I got new tie rods ends/ inner and sleeves. I won't attempt to align anything at this point, but would like to install the sleeves in a way they are set optimally to allow adjustment later on. My 73 being aligned, i'll look and measure to have something similar for now, but wonder what should be the optimal way to install them from scratch. The weekend being at the corner, any answers on these would be very welcome...
  6. Mebbe that will sound like a stupid question, but what kind of headers do you have? If you have hookers or similars, I'd take a closer look at the flanges of the one were your lambda is. I saw after having my sniper AFR going all over the place a few weeks back that my headers were the bad guys. (took me ages to find out what was going on) The thing is, even if on mine the gaps I've found were relatively bigger due to corrosion vs what you'd find on new ones, the way they are made, basically tubes being pressed/inserted from behind the flanges and then secured by a few welds doesn't cut it for the sensor. They are not air tight and the little tiny spaces do grow under pressure at higher rpm and when hot. No gasket can fix these either, you won't hear a leak and under load, they will let air enter at the port. They are fine for carbs but not for EFI's, causing the sensor to register foreign oxygen that should not be there. Which in return affects the mix. Welding them from the back of the flange did fix my fluctuating AFR issues. As @mjlan said, do a datalog and check the afr values.
  7. I would buy again for sure. I'd love one day to add a 72 vert with a 302/stick to the family just to have the 3 bodies and engines.I also love the 302's rumble (with the old firing order). Will need loads of magic to create space for that one tho :O I'm like @Bentworker, I love them when they have the original spirit with some modern twists added to them. My 73 Grandé restored with originality in mind would certainly not be as fun to look and drive as it is now for sure.
  8. That's a great plan and easy to stick to with a good looking car like this! Welcome from the northern Netherlands
  9. Starts to look a whole lot more healthy than a few weeks back! Great work Kevin!
  10. Quick small update... Been busy on non mustang things these past weeks, but not entirely.. For 2 weekends in a row, I kept postponning the further install of my brakes. Simply because after seeing similar parts installed this past december on my 73 that are already starting to rust (that I now regret to have trusted their finish, expecting at least to last a couple of years) So been busy protecting 99% of the new parts I've received... From pressure plate to brake flexible fittings. Wanted install the idler arm to find out I forgot to handle the hardware that goes thru the frame that was still on the old one. So did that. The new strut rods rings/rubber were already starting to rust inside the box! So addressed that. Wanted to lower the car with wheels on, but the rusty old cragars were looking so bad, even if I will replace them when the car is finished, I couldn't bare to see these wheels on my restore suspension, so fixed that... A while back, I found out the drag link was crooked. Left it at a friend's place having a press and plan was to correct it while we do the AOD swap on my 73, but last week he surprised me by bringing me the corrected link. It was straight again, but also full of ancient hamering marks, rust etc... so fixed that too A bit carried away on the prep, after a a good zinc bath, the baby was looking real good. So good that the strut rods done last week got jealous!! :O So redid them using the same treatment, which is to polish the metal, re-zinc, paint and finish all with a layer of gloss coat. There are some flaws here and there, ancient marks still present etc.. but despite these, I'm pretty pleased with the way this original once rusted to death hardware is now looking!! Hopefully now that most parts are durably protected, I should now be able to install more parts back next weekend! To be continued...
  11. My hand in fire its the big bad relay in metal casing (which corrodes and no longer protects the inside coil). Either located on driver side tower or inside under column depending on years. These being sold at totally nuts price, around 90-110 dollars a piece, I looked at the amperage and on my coupe 73 it was 40 amps. Bought a relay for 5 buxx and it's been moving my windows since without any problems. They burn and create a short that of course blow the fuse.
  12. You learn everyday something new!! I would have used some if I'd knew that product at the time I did my 429 heads. Even after the sand blasting where paint would stick much better due to the concave shapes at micro level, I simply didn't trust any paint to do the job right in the long run. Indeed the goal was to ease oil flow and mebbe a little to please my eyes too :D Aaaah PAW, that's some name of the past!! I ordered stuffs there in the late 80's. Some Crane parts I bought there are still powering my cleveland with zero issue! I regret the t-shirt with the big V8 in the back they gave away by large orders. Really thick cotton. What happen to them? There were there and then poof, gone. It's too late for me as the engine has already received some oil in there and other assembly goo, tho as I'll prolly do another engine at some point. I'll seek for some then. Thx for the info Spike and Don C!
  13. Nice pieces! What is the red paint type? Thought about doing this, but chickenned, afraid it would come loose
  14. Oh missed that vid! On the new one, the sound seams more crisp, now that the valve cover is gone, but may be it's the recording. I would at this point check the pushrods play.
  15. looks like your steering pump pulley is dancing... Watching the first vid a couple of times, the way the pulley moves sidewards and the sound seams to match. Even if it's not the sound that you're after, that pump is in need of a revision As the pulley is really tight on the shaft and could not possibly have this kind of play, I bet the bearing behind is the bad guy.
  16. Amazed at the damage done. Considering all this was bathed in thick oil, I wonder how long it took to get to that point. Especially without noticing any sound. I agree with Kligon, certainly not a bad price. I'd say that's a very good price. Glad you'll be rolling soon with no clicks!
  17. Over here during yearly tech control, they do check front lights, really picky on them and even if you did nothing to them in past year, it's like if the angle changes per year on itself as they always touch my lights. Same on all my cars. However never seen or heard of any controls regarding rear lights lenses other than of course that they must work. Pretty sure the custom ones above would be fine here. Do they test optics of rear lights in USA? Officially, for any lights lenses on a car, there must be a European approved sticker, in practice tho looks like they did not care if my chinese headlights leds were "officially approved" or not, they only checked that they produce the correct beam in low and high. Which they did.
  18. At least there was plenty fresh oil in it, that's probably what saved the day! And its not like an engine is completely dry inside either. Just water and no oil would have been another story! If it runs fine now, I would not really worry too much. Lucky him!
  19. You're indeed not the only one seeking this one year only air cleaner assembly. If of any help I've got the original one, but for ram-air, dusting together with the rochester and the intake somewhere (not for sale). The pan till the top lip where the sealing rubber is, should be the same as the non ram air version I guess. I could give you some measurements, picts etc.. next weekend. PM me if no one replies with one for sale or picts of a non ram air version.
  20. as you are on the forum since 2015, really time to say welcome! :D Thats a beautiful 72! 302's might not be the top of the line power wise for these years, but they certainly are undervalued! They are very reliable and the sound they make is quite relaxing when you cruise!
  21. Time for a small update... 5 weeks ago, took my 73 with EFI for a spin, and pushed it a bit, ran super fine. The next morning, it started it, and ran like crap right away. The AFR (air fuel ratio) was showing the max the bradband o2 sensor can show. 35.6. Which means the mix was too lean. In return the computer compensates with fuel. In other words: lean condition on efi means the engine gets flooded in matter of seconds. Long story short, all pointed to a defect sensor, ordered one, which forced me to wait 2 weeks to test again. No change. Even swapped with the unit ment for my 429. Same except this time there was only one potential bad guy let over: the exhaust. The hedmans I have on my 351 are noisy by design, after I've changed the headers gasket with no change, I got so annoyed that decided to remove the header for inspection, tired of assuming... After enjoying a gym session to remove it on my driveway, it did not take long to spot holes that should not be there. 3 at the flanges. Placed where the tubes meet the flanges and where no gasket can seal. While at it, also flatenned the flanges to have more surface area on the heads and while doing this, also exposed more weak spots and holes in the making. I ended up welding in and out each and every flanges all around from behind, redid the sensor bung weld with extra thick hot welds and pressure-tested it. Airtight. High temp paint on them after a good brushing session and they were looking like a million again :D Few bad words later, after I've replaced the sparkplugs that had seen too many flooded conditions and resetted the unit. Turned the key, and that baby was turning as a clock again, with ideal idle mix AFR values! The computer agreed it was air tight and there was no more false air with unburned oxygen coming in! I plan to change these for a while but gld I did not as after looking at close ups of header from Hooker and others, even if coated and expensive, all the ones I saw are showing the same design that is ok for carb cars but will need correction. So instead of the nice coated headers I was thinking of I think, i will either let do custom SS headers here or buy cheaper version, correct and let coat over here... For now, really happy it's running great again even if that costed me a full afternoon to fix. That AFR issue fixed, it was time to return on the 71 and next was to secure 4 of the botls on the spindles with stainless safety wire. I had high grade SS 0.7 wire in house for that and as I couldn't find the same in 1 or 1.5mm, went over to plan b and tressed them before use them. Once in that state, they look thin, but man what a strong wire, I can tell you these won't let go for a thousand years at least!! It took a while but got them finally in place, similar as the original patern, but their twisted look made them look as if I knew what I was doing :D Then 'installed my new rotors with all new goodies in and out. Where most work went into slaming in these new us (with chinese sticker) stamped dust covers without damaging them. Ended up using the left over races to do that. All lubed in a good bearing grease, they now turn and feel like new. Wait... they are! And oh boy do they not look good on the spindles?!! :D Glad I did the extra mile to paint them! Then wanted to install the callipers but as they were not matching the greys and their protection could use a boost, I needed paint them first. As I was planning to install the sway bar as well, found out the hardware for it was also lacking long term protection. Thanks to a hole in rainy clouds, I was able to spray all this Saturday and plan was to install them back yesterday... But as always, plans changed and I'll be doing that next weekend! In between things, been busy restoring some of the last remaining rusty things on the front: the strutrods. As I wanted plate them this Sunday, I had to make sure they'd take a bath for the night. After a good brushing to remove the thick rust, that's exactly where they ended. By the morning the brown misery was gone and the metal back to a good a new state. Not super easy to plate, I ended up with a set of rods and their hardware in a zinc jacket by the end of the day. The very hard to turn nuts are now moving on the clean threads as if new. Should spare me some muscles when I'll place them back (I still remember the removal!!). They'll receive their specific grey, which I'll apply together with my center link that is waiting on my friend to return from his vacation as it needs to meet his press first to fix a bending... As I needed do more than usually, to plate the rods (moving them around often, change anodes positions etc), I wasn't able to install the calipers but managed to place this new swaybar. The original one wasn't present on the car and bought one made for 429 last year. No mickey mouse material for sure with its large diameter, after some gym I managed to have it almost in. But will need to wait till I can low down that car to have the right angle. As is, not in line, the polyurethane bushings do not allow me to play enough to bolt and have the last grommet on... I'll correct that and tight all the rest once back on the floor. And thats how you start the week with muscle pain. Again! :D To be continued...
  22. No chances for the second one to be just the bearing? For now try see the bright side: One on two is not that bad of a score :O and you'll soon have it back in ready to roll again!
  23. That's some bad & $$$ news... :( How do you think this happen? Wrong or not enough oil? These bearings are not weak pieces usually.
  24. Is it me or the two guys in front of police car are not really looking under the hood? :D You guys have seen other 71-73's? Keep the reports coming @tony-muscle! Enjoy for us!
  25. I won't bother put anything on aside spraying some oil from a can if you need wait a couple of months, because if you treat it well with eastwood or any rust converters. To do it right, you will in fact do not that much less work than doing it durably and you will have near as much work to protect or remove stuffs to do it. And once it's all shiny black, you will postpone to do it right! I know I would :O From what I see on picts, rust that is flagged "light" in replies... well, I know i would not wait too long because the trunk floor is really not that thick (0.85mm) and that rust is eating it alive real fast!
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