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Everything posted by sciabola13

  1. Thanks for update. It was frightening how easy that joint came apart. Would have failed at any moment... really glad I looked into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I have the Dorman kit to rebuild, I was just curious because there are no guide pins extruding from either side of rag joint like on many pics I have seen. The rivets are flush on both forged sides of joint. Good advice on grade 8 bolts. Thanks! Jeff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Sorry, the mobile app keeps grabbing wrong pic This is column side of rag joint. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. This is other side of joint, this side was connected to column. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Yes, sorry that I forgot to mention that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Hey Crew, I pulled the column and rag joint because getting Ready to do floor pans and easier with it out of the way. Also, old brake master cylinder leaked and turned rag joint to mush. In my research prior to yanking it, I had a good idea what to expect. As you can see in the pics, my column didn’t have a flange at the bottom and the rag joint doesn’t have the guide pins in it... H code car, automatic, fmx tranny, PS, PB, AC. Am I ok or is this thing missing pieces? The car is very unmolested, still had a factory muffler on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Pulled heads and sent them off for checking and head job. The valve guide and stems were in really quite rough shape. Will start dissembling the bottom half this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Thanks for the reminder on head bolts. Would you mind looking at the pics I posted earlier and adding any analysis. I just haven’t had that many engines apart to really gauge what is going on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Update! Got her out and had great help from my kiddo. Wasn’t difficult at all, wished I would have just pulled her two months ago instead of farting around trying to diagnose. Lots of grime on that side of engine, failed oil pan gasket perhaps? The driver side is equally worse but I had a PS hose showering the exhaust manifold when I first got it. The passenger side head pulled right now, I have pulled heads on many cars over the years, usually they are fused a bit to the block deck. Not this one... Did break one exhaust manifold bolt off in head.... bummer but I am sending heads out for work so I will let the machine shop get it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yeah. F these bolts. I am going to just yank the motor. I will spend more time jacking around and skinning my knuckles than it takes to pull her. That pushrod on 4 cylinder was full of goo, no oil could go up it. I will plan on sending heads out for valve work once I pull her and check out the rotating assembly. If possible I may try and put new bearings and oil pump on her since I have it out. Need to assess once I get it pulled. Thanks y’all for hanging in there with me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Ok, dumb question. The exhaust manifold bolts are a pain. I can just just pull the head out with exhaust manifold still attached right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Some pics of after I pulled the intake. Kinda gross, the intake manifold gasket was a turkey pan style and hard to tell but I am fairly confident there were some areas that were leaking vacuum. Some strange particulate in valley, almost charred looking oil? Most concerning was # 4 cylinder, last rocker arm. Every other rocker arm had a coat of oil, that one dry as a bone. That was side of engine that was manifesting a ticking sound after shutoff. Need some advice on that please! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Update. Decided to go ahead and start pulling the heads and see what it going on. When I drained coolant, noticed some oil in with coolant. Got intake almost ready to pull... Really not looking forward to exhaust manifold bolts. Got everything soaking overnight in PB blaster, for what that is worth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks. I will double check! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Did Dons technique and air was coming out through the exhaust(tailpipe) as well as through the breather hose in back of passenger size valve cover. Thoughts??? Around 90 percent certain I had #3 at TDC, that was a little tougher than dialing in #1. Lol But back to my original post, would this valve/ring/cylinder issue be causing my idling problems? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Another strange thing, is that right after I shut the motor off. There is a ticking sound coming from that side of motor for maybe 60-90 seconds before it goes away. Sounds different than just heat expansion sounds... any thoughts on that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. I figured you meant compression stroke, otherwise either an intake or exhaust valve would be open. Will try that tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Thanks Don. I have never tried that technique, how much PSI should I feed into that cylinder? All new spark plug wires and cap, rotor, etc. Plugs all new, but #3 had some carbon fouling as other plugs look clean. Hard to get a good read since car has been garage bound since I got her a few months ago and working on getting her going. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Made some more adjustments and moved timing to around 12 btdc, and increased hot idle speed to around 750. Got her to shift without dying. Still has a nasty miss on that #3. Any advice to tell if it is a ring, valve seal, or head gasket? She is close to being able to be test driven. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Slightly better but still laboring. Going to play with choke adjustment and idle speed screws a bit more. Was able to shift into gear without it dying. But eventually she did stumble and die out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Pulled carb to check again, and looks like throttle plates were not closing all the way. Not sure if choke linkage was bound up or if I messed up realigning them. Working on correcting that now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Hey y’all. My 71 Mach 1, H code is not able to idle while warm. Cranks immediately when cold, choke opens up once she is hot and idle starts struggling, eventually dies. Also dies when I put her in gear. FMX tranny. Pertronix 2 unit and coil Rebuilt 2100 Checked TDC and dizzy alignment. Running around 10-12 BTDC to get it to run Messed with idle screws and choke adjustment. Removed and plugged every vacuum line from manifold. When cold and idling around 1200 rpm, getting around 19 inches vacuum. Once heats up and choke opens, drops down around 10 inches and engine labors between 500-800rpm. Doesn’t idle steady, vacuum gauge and tach jump around There is a good bit of smoke (exhaust?) coming out of passenger side breather. Compression check shows 140-150 on every cylinder, except #3. She is dogging with around 90-100 psi. This was my first solo carb rebuild... signs definitely point to a major vacuum leak. Sprayed carb cleaner around base gasket and vacuum fittings. No noticeable change in idle quality. Did old school techniques of holding hand over carb to block air. She sped up for a second or two then a abruptly died. Ok. So where do I go from here? Anyway to tell if blown head gasket or blown rings? Obviously cylinder #3 having issues. Trying to avoid yanking engine if I can, I am on a bit of time deadline for when my painter can get to car and trying to finish up floor pans and body work. Any advice welcome! Jeff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Well crap... back to being paranoid. This is fan off of my 71 Mach 1, 351C, 2v. I was getting myself too stressed on this restoration and decided to have some fun with fan paint scheme. I didn’t strip old paint. I gently wet-sanded it with 600 grit under warm water in kitchen sink. Wife was ecstatic! And then I spray painted with super light coats of engine cast coat and ford blue. Inspected all the edges, rivets, hub. Saw no visible signs for concern. Is this fan ok to use, or what should I do? Humble apologies for hijacking this thread... But this clearly is a major safety concern, and this mustang community is top notch at looking out for each other! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I would clean and mark the timing marks, pull the plugs and cycle the engine by hand to make sure. A little bit of effort up front will save a ton of frustration. I am just getting motor up and running on my 71, 351C. Running stock dizzy with a pertronix 2, and coil. Had a great result with that setup so far. Haven’t drove car yet, but the upgrade made her fire up and idle way better than before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. No worries man. I already have it put back together, but I am happy to shoot some pics when I head out to the shop later this week! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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