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Posts posted by sciabola13

  1. The plate and guide pins are part of the rag joint assembly, not part of the steering box or column. Turn your rag joint assembly around, take a picture of the other side of it, so we can see what it looks like. The guide pins should be on the other end of the bolts that are connected to the hub you show in your pictures.


    EDIT: I was wrong, the tilt columns did not have the safety plate and pins. Makes it even more important to inspect and replace them, instead of waiting until you can feel the slop in the steering wheel.



    Thanks for update. It was frightening how easy that joint came apart. Would have failed at any moment... really glad I looked into it.



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  2. Hey Crew,


    I pulled the column and rag joint because getting Ready to do floor pans and easier with it out of the way. Also, old brake master cylinder leaked and turned rag joint to mush.


    In my research prior to yanking it, I had a good idea what to expect. As you can see in the pics, my column didn’t have a flange at the bottom and the rag joint doesn’t have the guide pins in it...


    H code car, automatic, fmx tranny, PS, PB, AC.


    Am I ok or is this thing missing pieces? 11042b1a8e701799509d85f0f58aca34.jpgThe car is very unmolested, still had a factory muffler on it.





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  3. Update! Got her out and had great help from my kiddo. d0b546c212ed0a4ce5d359f35698095d.jpg


    Wasn’t difficult at all, wished I would have just pulled her two months ago instead of farting around trying to diagnose. Lots of grime on that side of engine, failed oil pan gasket perhaps? The driver side is equally worse but I had a PS hose showering the exhaust manifold when I first got it.






    The passenger side head pulled right now, I have pulled heads on many cars over the years, usually they are fused a bit to the block deck. Not this one...






    Did break one exhaust manifold bolt off in head.... bummer but I am sending heads out for work so I will let the machine shop get it out. f44120dd0943d1ed3ddd850b7aa205b1.jpg




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  4. Yeah. F these bolts. I am going to just yank the motor. I will spend more time jacking around and skinning my knuckles than it takes to pull her.


    That pushrod on 4 cylinder was full of goo, no oil could go up it. I will plan on sending heads out for valve work once I pull her and check out the rotating assembly. If possible I may try and put new bearings and oil pump on her since I have it out. Need to assess once I get it pulled. Thanks y’all for hanging in there with me!



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  5. 88bfbb41c3be855a2a5f0f2688cb4ddb.jpg58386c18d891e40f0bddf3e0aeb695df.jpgb8833f168675709f27aeab6258265acf.jpg


    Some pics of after I pulled the intake. Kinda gross, the intake manifold gasket was a turkey pan style and hard to tell but I am fairly confident there were some areas that were leaking vacuum.


    Some strange particulate in valley, almost charred looking oil?


    Most concerning was # 4 cylinder, last rocker arm. Every other rocker arm had a coat of oil, that one dry as a bone. That was side of engine that was manifesting a ticking sound after shutoff.


    Need some advice on that please!





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  6. Update. Decided to go ahead and start pulling the heads and see what it going on. When I drained coolant, noticed some oil in with coolant. Got intake almost ready to pull... Really not looking forward to exhaust manifold bolts. Got everything soaking overnight in PB blaster, for what that is worth.




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  7. Did Dons technique and air was coming out through the exhaust(tailpipe) as well as through the breather hose in back of passenger size valve cover. Thoughts???



    Around 90 percent certain I had #3 at TDC, that was a little tougher than dialing in #1. Lol


    But back to my original post, would this valve/ring/cylinder issue be causing my idling problems?



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  8. I should have added that it has to be on the compression stroke. It's not easy to get it at the exact top. It doesn't take a lot of pressure if it's a valve not sealing, but I like to use 100 psi, or more.



    I figured you meant compression stroke, otherwise either an intake or exhaust valve would be open. Will try that tomorrow!



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  9. You can stop #3 at TDC and put some air pressure to that cylinder. If it's valves you should be able to hear the leak in the exhaust or intake. If it's rings it'll be coming out of the crankcase. However, if it's the head gasket it could be leaking into the crankcase or coolant. Most likely rings, as you're getting some smoke. Could be a valve that is bad or recessed, and the smoke from bad valve seals.


    What did #3 plug look like when you pulled it for the compression check?


    I would swap the #3 spark plug with one from the other side of the engine to see if it helps #3. Also check the #3 plug wire to make sure it isn't damaged.



    Thanks Don. I have never tried that technique, how much PSI should I feed into that cylinder? All new spark plug wires and cap, rotor, etc. Plugs all new, but #3 had some carbon fouling as other plugs look clean. Hard to get a good read since car has been garage bound since I got her a few months ago and working on getting her going.





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  10. Hey y’all. My 71 Mach 1, H code is not able to idle while warm. Cranks immediately when cold, choke opens up once she is hot and idle starts struggling, eventually dies. Also dies when I put her in gear. FMX tranny.


    Pertronix 2 unit and coil

    Rebuilt 2100

    Checked TDC and dizzy alignment. Running around 10-12 BTDC to get it to run

    Messed with idle screws and choke adjustment.

    Removed and plugged every vacuum line from manifold.


    When cold and idling around 1200 rpm, getting around 19 inches vacuum. Once heats up and choke opens, drops down around 10 inches and engine labors between 500-800rpm. Doesn’t idle steady, vacuum gauge and tach jump around


    There is a good bit of smoke (exhaust?) coming out of passenger side breather.


    Compression check shows 140-150 on every cylinder, except #3. She is dogging with around 90-100 psi.


    This was my first solo carb rebuild... signs definitely point to a major vacuum leak. Sprayed carb cleaner around base gasket and vacuum fittings. No noticeable change in idle quality.


    Did old school techniques of holding hand over carb to block air. She sped up for a second or two then a abruptly died.


    Ok. So where do I go from here? Anyway to tell if blown head gasket or blown rings?


    Obviously cylinder #3 having issues. Trying to avoid yanking engine if I can, I am on a bit of time deadline for when my painter can get to car and trying to finish up floor pans and body work.


    Any advice welcome!








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  11. 26f68b58ec36c3809f3faa11d78f75ea.jpg


    Well crap... back to being paranoid. This is fan off of my 71 Mach 1, 351C, 2v. I was getting myself too stressed on this restoration and decided to have some fun with fan paint scheme.


    I didn’t strip old paint. I gently wet-sanded it with 600 grit under warm water in kitchen sink. Wife was ecstatic! And then I spray painted with super light coats of engine cast coat and ford blue. Inspected all the edges, rivets, hub. Saw no visible signs for concern.


    Is this fan ok to use, or what should I do? Humble apologies for hijacking this thread... But this clearly is a major safety concern, and this mustang community is top notch at looking out for each other!



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  12. I would clean and mark the timing marks, pull the plugs and cycle the engine by hand to make sure. A little bit of effort up front will save a ton of frustration. I am just getting motor up and running on my 71, 351C. Running stock dizzy with a pertronix 2, and coil. Had a great result with that setup so far. Haven’t drove car yet, but the upgrade made her fire up and idle way better than before.



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