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SVO2SCJ

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SVO2SCJ last won the day on December 27 2018

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About SVO2SCJ

  • Rank
    Zip Tie Mechanic - can I help you?
  • Birthday 11/30/1957

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 R code

Location

  • Location
    Brighton Mi
  • Region
    Northeast

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

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  1. I read your posts from Aug.....R U still dealing with this from then?? I read that POP (statement) and then not starting without backfiring and thought " has anyone confirmed this car doesn't still have the plastic timing gear!" SHOPS don't know everything we do with 40 years experience with engeneering changes! Before throwing a internet distributor do you think they knew to remove valve cover and watch the valve action in relationship to the distributor? Mark P.S. You have to do this yourself, you will go broke at $80 per hour and REDOING wrong work if you continue down t
  2. What you haven't told us is what the car has for points/petronix? ! If points, be sure your condenser is good. If petronix be sure you have 12V (not the reduced voltage factory wire) going to the red for the unit. Let's assume all else is correct and start here.....at first I was going to reply "I could start that car in less then 10Mins" BUT figured that doesn't help you. I THINK you just have to work backwards from where you are. Your issues are multiple.....if you are only getting voltage to the coil on crank, then of course it won't run when the key lets go (for now use
  3. Glad you have owned the car as long as you have!! Read your post (and comments) ..........with STOCK orders it is the dealer that specs the car (for stock) not Ford (building it a certain way). It was a job that you were either good at reading the demand or "ordered too many green on green" and lost your job ! LOL Dealer principal looked at it from a carrying cost of inventory when it took too long to sell. BEST case senerio was to get a car, sell it BEFORE the bill to Ford came due after 30 days. When you see LONG times to sell on the report (6 months in this case) the dealer ha
  4. I am of the opinion that "if it wasn't available for the car the year (era sold) then it looks OUT OF PLACE. Same goes for the use of wheels not introduced by factory until after year! The other thing is if you keep your original hood intact ...you can always sell, put back on and resell the ram air. Of course that depends IF you purchased the correct springs, plenum, flappers, seal, hose and ram air cleaner /snorkel and heat shield and manifold fittings -then you have value! Mark
  5. Boy we are "brothers from another mother!" LOL Just read about your 68 TR250 (I owned 37 Triumphs) so I have always had a soft spot for them! Only have my MkI Gt6 today ! Mark
  6. PM only got two photos......just saw post with missing choke parts.....let us know if you are using the factory 4300 carb or a new "electric choke" style!! (dont need the tubes)
  7. HI I have one I BOUGHT for my Boss 351 that is nicer than. the one on my car! (havent put on) Can offer $275 delivered or install on my car and sell that one for $50 less ! Whatever you want (may have some witex clamps too) MARK
  8. Yeah I KIND of fall into that catagory !! When I was doing the Boss 351 this was the only forum I used DAILY. (2017/18) This year when while furloghed from March to Sept , I did an early Mustang......so I have been at ConcourseMustang.com or 65/66 Restoration page on FB. Feel kind of bad for seeming to not care.....but I have never been a clubber. NOW...I am building a 1967 Ford C850 into a ramp truck (for the early Mustang) so I am here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum232/ Mark P.S. My guess is if everyone turned on notifications of threads or "what you have mi
  9. NO. and yes. Some of the pieces will work, THINK the correct lid is chrome. Others here will know , as I never owned anything but a Boss 351 when it comes to 71's. Spend some time looking at correct cars on Google (just that is an art to filter through all the Frankenstein's)! We knew it had a 4 barrel , from the use of the CA manifold. (we just don't know if it isa spread bore or if the manifold was cut up to use a square bore. Taking in photos is an art too. Where as some photo entire engines, others want to see specific parts up close! Less can even video !! Going too fas
  10. Thanks for coming back, posting photos and keeping involved here and with your car ! I think we all assumed it was a project and ratty. LOL Very nice car. Though not the photos , I hoped to help tell.....at this point I would simply (get a look at the balancer) and TELL US "does it sound like a SOLID cam shaft". If it doesn't and doesn't have a 2 inch balancer........seeing the lack of Boss parts and the pletora 351C parts leave it at that! Move on to your work at hand. To your idea of "working on" what to do, I would adress all of the WRONG /missing items from what I CA
  11. Hello Well from you first post (showing you don't know), and your second post (with photo) showing a CA manifold BUT NOT a D1ZF-ZA carb............I would ask that you LOOK AT THE THICKNESS of the balancer behind the lower crank pulley next! You need to see if it is 1" in width it is a 351 Cleveland or if it is 2" . There is more than that to do for your forensics, some you can do without disasembly some where you have to remove parts. IF you are not restoring, selling or need help rebuilding then leave it at that. IF you are doing any of the above then reach out to someone th
  12. Yes I could see, a subsupplier (that has an OPEN PO) that is doing multiple cars, being ahead by a couple of months , just to keep up !! Though these weren't BATCH made (like alot of the rare car speciaifc parts)....once boxed for transport there wasn't and first in first out going on. Mark P.S. A foundry worker said the same for Blocks! "I had better things to do then tell the forklift guy to rotate the pallets!" LOL
  13. These things are only a couple dollars IF you want to make an EXACT from your car (which we should)! MARK P.S. YOU can always tell a car "all snickered up" at a car show. Where wrong sticker, daubs or dates are used!
  14. Man That is a tough one! Multiple manufacturers for the motor and the stamps are different. One uses a FULL date, one uses NO DATE info. ALL show 12V and D1ZF-17504-AA PLUS some are yellow some white! Mine was upside down (as you look at the car) so I did it the same way.......if you look at some others people seem to "make perfectly" (centered and 100% visable). Happy to send you my stamp if you want to use it. Just mail back. Mark P.S. I didn't mount this on a WOOD stamp...as the motor is round and "rolling" it gave the smeared look mine had and I wanted again. (I
  15. I think it is safe to say this is a 1965 version. The "side pin stirpe" was a 65 introduced option. You can SEE that the door locks ARE NOT "early" 64 1/2 color keyed units. Mark
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