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SVO2SCJ

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Everything posted by SVO2SCJ

  1. Hi

    Well I know there is a forum for this and that community reputation counts THUMBS UP!!  But after spending time with David at Ford Carlisle I wanted to take the same time to write here about him!!    We know he bleeds Ford blue and has protected his car, spending his money for all the see.   When together he is both an ambassador for our marque and truly interested in the people he meets!    We talked, walked together and he introduced me to other cars and people.     We are often so busy or focused on our own stuff that we fail to be like David!    I wanted to thank him for his time and interest and wanted to say it publicly.  SVO Mark 

    1. tony-muscle

      tony-muscle

      I agree. I met David at Carlisle as well after communicating with him for many years in this forum. He is full of knowledge and as you say, every bit interested in meeting others.

  2. Unfortunately Ford was slow to react to a known problem dated 7/1/1971 for 72 cars https://www.conceptcarz.com/recall/8569/ford-mustang.aspx And then taking even longer here https://www.conceptcarz.com/recall/8569/ford-mustang.aspx after the death of a Michigan Dealer Mechanic. The stickers didn't appear until will into the 1972 production, first as a campain then installed on the lines by late 1972. https://www.nytimes.com/1977/09/02/archives/ford-chief-admits-mistake-in-failure-to-recall-autos-late-ford.html Mark P.S. Though not part of production for a 1971 car (or before) IF YOU WENT TO A FORD DEALER when they have stickers , there was a good chance you would get one. For Example you purchase a car in June (any car) and in Sept you go to a dealer for service you may or may not have gotten a sticker on your car. SAY you purchased a left over 1972 in Aug................by then Dealers would have been sent a roll and told to PUT ON THE UNSOLD INVENTORY.
  3. I think you will find that is the difference in drum/drum OR disc/drum applications. Since she is doing the internet ordering provide her with all the info for the planned build, if you are adding a power booster and if you have the correct proportioning valve for the final build. My guess is she just started with an internet search and thinking of shopping by price. We needed a master cylinder in a pinch on a Sunday , last month and NO ONE had one......ended up driving to NPD and got one cheaper that the parts store! Lately I have been CONFIRMING avalablilty on anything ordered on line. Many suppliers aren't stocking (to cut costs) and are drop shipping BUT you don't see the jobbers inventory to confirm stock. https://www.npdlink.com/product/master-cylinder-assy-brake/103676?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dmaster%2Bcylinder%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1972&year=1972
  4. My guess is if you had a 494 Can Am car it would be a "starting place" ! Still need about $30K in parts, injector system and then a $30K Hewland !! Old race parts are really hard to put to use as many were one off, motified by builders and /or IMPOSSIBLE to assemble because of "missing parts" Mark
  5. Talking a friend out of buying a Yellow 1971 H code on Ebay for $4500.00 11 years ago !! (Not listening to his , but it is wierd, it has staggered shocks and holes in the shock tower) LOL Mark
  6. I am so sorry I haven't used/posted to this thread......mostly because I work on a large number of NON 71-73 cars on a daily basis!! But since the prototype clone is finished and the 1967 C850 is leaving to have a ramp installed and painted, I will be moving a 1971 car I have owned 3 times wince 2001 into the garage next week to work on in the winter. Mostly want to document the time as Chris Long will be visiting for a week in Feb to do the power windows. (he has installed PW in about 9 cars , so he can do with his eyes closed) This will be a repeat of 2017 when Bill, Chris and I assembled the Boss in a week. Mark
  7. I read your posts from Aug.....R U still dealing with this from then?? I read that POP (statement) and then not starting without backfiring and thought " has anyone confirmed this car doesn't still have the plastic timing gear!" SHOPS don't know everything we do with 40 years experience with engeneering changes! Before throwing a internet distributor do you think they knew to remove valve cover and watch the valve action in relationship to the distributor? Mark P.S. You have to do this yourself, you will go broke at $80 per hour and REDOING wrong work if you continue down this path. Call me.
  8. What you haven't told us is what the car has for points/petronix? ! If points, be sure your condenser is good. If petronix be sure you have 12V (not the reduced voltage factory wire) going to the red for the unit. Let's assume all else is correct and start here.....at first I was going to reply "I could start that car in less then 10Mins" BUT figured that doesn't help you. I THINK you just have to work backwards from where you are. Your issues are multiple.....if you are only getting voltage to the coil on crank, then of course it won't run when the key lets go (for now use a dedicated wire to the positive of the coil) As for "TRYING to start" we can't see how you have the distributor wires clocked , but at some point the vacuum advance will hit the manifold and now allow for more timing! IF you have to redrop the distributor to get more adjustment DO IT. Mark P.S. A video tells alot about your work! IT's how I fix everything on Facebook.
  9. Glad you have owned the car as long as you have!! Read your post (and comments) ..........with STOCK orders it is the dealer that specs the car (for stock) not Ford (building it a certain way). It was a job that you were either good at reading the demand or "ordered too many green on green" and lost your job ! LOL Dealer principal looked at it from a carrying cost of inventory when it took too long to sell. BEST case senerio was to get a car, sell it BEFORE the bill to Ford came due after 30 days. When you see LONG times to sell on the report (6 months in this case) the dealer had to pay the cost of keeping on the floor. Again, this was an art as you had other dealers in proximity that could have a "similar" car for hundreds of dollars less , just from one option delete. THEN when you put the date of delivery in the middle of winter, you can also factor why a 3:50 4 speed wasn't FLYING off the floor! Love your car Mark
  10. I am of the opinion that "if it wasn't available for the car the year (era sold) then it looks OUT OF PLACE. Same goes for the use of wheels not introduced by factory until after year! The other thing is if you keep your original hood intact ...you can always sell, put back on and resell the ram air. Of course that depends IF you purchased the correct springs, plenum, flappers, seal, hose and ram air cleaner /snorkel and heat shield and manifold fittings -then you have value! Mark
  11. Boy we are "brothers from another mother!" LOL Just read about your 68 TR250 (I owned 37 Triumphs) so I have always had a soft spot for them! Only have my MkI Gt6 today ! Mark
  12. PM only got two photos......just saw post with missing choke parts.....let us know if you are using the factory 4300 carb or a new "electric choke" style!! (dont need the tubes)
  13. HI I have one I BOUGHT for my Boss 351 that is nicer than. the one on my car! (havent put on) Can offer $275 delivered or install on my car and sell that one for $50 less ! Whatever you want (may have some witex clamps too) MARK
  14. Yeah I KIND of fall into that catagory !! When I was doing the Boss 351 this was the only forum I used DAILY. (2017/18) This year when while furloghed from March to Sept , I did an early Mustang......so I have been at ConcourseMustang.com or 65/66 Restoration page on FB. Feel kind of bad for seeming to not care.....but I have never been a clubber. NOW...I am building a 1967 Ford C850 into a ramp truck (for the early Mustang) so I am here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum232/ Mark P.S. My guess is if everyone turned on notifications of threads or "what you have missed" feature participation would increase again.
  15. NO. and yes. Some of the pieces will work, THINK the correct lid is chrome. Others here will know , as I never owned anything but a Boss 351 when it comes to 71's. Spend some time looking at correct cars on Google (just that is an art to filter through all the Frankenstein's)! We knew it had a 4 barrel , from the use of the CA manifold. (we just don't know if it isa spread bore or if the manifold was cut up to use a square bore. Taking in photos is an art too. Where as some photo entire engines, others want to see specific parts up close! Less can even video !! Going too fast, jumping around and not spending time in one location to be able to look at all the pieces. Mark P.S. Some times the best info comes from the prior owner photos !! It gives you the ability to see a car when bought, how it was tricked out and if any real use! Funny, we took a car to an auction and everyone was asking "did you just finish the car?" (car was restored 5 years before) TO which they said "MAN that is clean, you must not drive it!" (Car was drvien to Reno twice and Washington state from AZ that year) Theirs on the other hand you could smell the paint degassing still!
  16. Thanks for coming back, posting photos and keeping involved here and with your car ! I think we all assumed it was a project and ratty. LOL Very nice car. Though not the photos , I hoped to help tell.....at this point I would simply (get a look at the balancer) and TELL US "does it sound like a SOLID cam shaft". If it doesn't and doesn't have a 2 inch balancer........seeing the lack of Boss parts and the pletora 351C parts leave it at that! Move on to your work at hand. To your idea of "working on" what to do, I would adress all of the WRONG /missing items from what I CAN see it the photos. Look at photos of hose routing for air cleaner AND CONFIRM "what is the hell did they run the canister hose to" ??????!!!! I'm not sure I would put effort into the 2Brl air cleaner - rather consider finsihing the car with the correct ram air! If you detailed the engine compartment and un "H" coded it you would kill two birds with one stone!
  17. Hello Well from you first post (showing you don't know), and your second post (with photo) showing a CA manifold BUT NOT a D1ZF-ZA carb............I would ask that you LOOK AT THE THICKNESS of the balancer behind the lower crank pulley next! You need to see if it is 1" in width it is a 351 Cleveland or if it is 2" . There is more than that to do for your forensics, some you can do without disasembly some where you have to remove parts. IF you are not restoring, selling or need help rebuilding then leave it at that. IF you are doing any of the above then reach out to someone that knows (read don't listen to friends that don't) before you make any move, mistake or cost yourself money. If it turns out you just have an engine that a Ford Boss alum manifold was installed on (and running a Holley spread bore) fine. If they cut it (and running a Holley square bore) fine. Again, once known what you want to do then you can put the work into figuring out. All the date codes will tell you is if it is a 1971 or 1972 R motor. To know if it is intact inside you have to take apart (or do some forensics) Happy to help Mark 517 861 7630 P.S. I learned a long time ago that you don't sell to people that appraise things! So before someone says "do you want to sell" call. We all know the people that would reply that way. At the same time "you can't sell a secret" so call.
  18. Yes I could see, a subsupplier (that has an OPEN PO) that is doing multiple cars, being ahead by a couple of months , just to keep up !! Though these weren't BATCH made (like alot of the rare car speciaifc parts)....once boxed for transport there wasn't and first in first out going on. Mark P.S. A foundry worker said the same for Blocks! "I had better things to do then tell the forklift guy to rotate the pallets!" LOL
  19. These things are only a couple dollars IF you want to make an EXACT from your car (which we should)! MARK P.S. YOU can always tell a car "all snickered up" at a car show. Where wrong sticker, daubs or dates are used!
  20. Man That is a tough one! Multiple manufacturers for the motor and the stamps are different. One uses a FULL date, one uses NO DATE info. ALL show 12V and D1ZF-17504-AA PLUS some are yellow some white! Mine was upside down (as you look at the car) so I did it the same way.......if you look at some others people seem to "make perfectly" (centered and 100% visable). Happy to send you my stamp if you want to use it. Just mail back. Mark P.S. I didn't mount this on a WOOD stamp...as the motor is round and "rolling" it gave the smeared look mine had and I wanted again. (It's kind of like the tank stencil everyone puts 100% in the middle of thier tank, the chances that a tank got a full stamp , let alone centered in the bottom are RARE !)
  21. I think it is safe to say this is a 1965 version. The "side pin stirpe" was a 65 introduced option. You can SEE that the door locks ARE NOT "early" 64 1/2 color keyed units. Mark
  22. As a 1971 R code owner, Boss restorer and follower of the cars/market and ENGINE date codes .........I actually agree with the thought of NOT buying a Boss!! Let me say "NOT BUYING A BOSS from the retailers, resellers of car bought cheaply and DOLLED UP to sell . Cars with good history, bones and 75% or more of correct Autolite parts are out there! If you find a long time owner, you will find a seller that wants to see their car go to the next guy that will drive, fix up or "do what they never got to!' As you find cars that are less of a project abit 90% correct parts (Read D1ZF-ZA carb, Autolite Dual point, working CORRECT date coded Rev limiter, Boss manifolds etc etc) will be 30% higher! I have owned over 125 collector cars yet I have never bought from dealer or auction!! (well one Mustang, but that was when it wouldn't start off the block and my money "saved the auctioneer") Every car, came with a story from the owner, rarely wasn't what it was to be and provided me a great hobby! I lost money on the first 20, broke even on the next 20 and made money on every car since BEACUSE " you make money on the buy, not the sale!" It doesn't matter if you buy a Boss or a Mach I .......just don't buy the WRONG car. Mark P.S. The 1971 Boss was the car all the retailers bought at auction for under $40K "thining" they could double their money !! The motus operandi is to make you think the car is worth $120K so when you pay $100K (or even less) YOU GOT A DEAL !!! (let me look at it now................I'll only reply IF it is a Nancy Reagan Car !!
  23. I didn't LOOK at the Marti (assumed if you posted it IT SAID BLOCK HEATER)......or didn't want to turn my head sideways
  24. 1967 Saab Sonett II "two stroke"
  25. Block Heater was an option on purchase. Car was a RETAIL on the report , you had the wire for "plug". In your case it was built that way. (could be dealer or owner installed too, but not in this case) Mark P.S. It's funny I commented about RARE OPTIONS last week and that "block heater was one of them!" LOL
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