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Everything posted by colonel

  1. Thx guys, your right about the rivets, I remember this from my 73. In terms of swapping in a V8: possible, but I doubt it. It has the 289 on the outside of the fender and all VINs that I saw until today say C-code. Then again, SHOULD the VIN on the fender be re-stamped and SHOULD the tag be a repro, then all is possible. The 289 logo of course is the easiest thing to apply, if somebody wanted to. I have asked for a copy of the title. Any more thoughts on the additional Kansas tag, anybody?
  2. Ok, here are the pics. "153" is the area in question on the fender (1st pic). The Kansas tag is in the 3rd pic. What also troubles me are the wavy inner fenders between the domes and the firewall. Could this be an indication for a severe front end collision?
  3. Ok, if this the wrong section, please shift into the apropriate one. I am strongly considering buying a 1965 vert (yeah, I know, not 71-73). While the door tag is perfect and matches the vehicle (exept for the fact that it was born a 4 sp mn and now is an auto), the VIN on the fender looks manipulated in the first 3 digits of the serial number. The sheetmetal surface underneath is rough (could have been corroded) and it looks like somebody re-punched those three digits. They seem to be just a tad below the rest of the VIN, maybe a slightly different font and they are more clearly defined than the other letters and digits. This VIN matches the door tag, of course. In addidition to fender VIN and door tag there is another tag stating the door tag VIN/serial number, saying "Replacement Identification number", "State of Kansas", a printed State of Kansas seal and a "control number". It does look very official, however, it is rivited to the car. I have never seen anything like this and I know that messing with the VIN is not something you want to do. Does anybody know anything about "replacing" damaged VINs like described above? If so, shouldn´t this been mentioned in the title? I haven´t seen the title yet. The vehicle is said to be registered and on the road. I really don´t know weather to persue this purchase or rather refrain from it.
  4. Thx. Regular headlights. Guess I’ll go with the headlight switch first. RA sells them from 15 or so Dollars.
  5. Drove on the Interstate the other night and after about 20mls the headlights went off. They came on again after some seconds. This went on for about 30mls, then the lamps stayed on. No matter what I did, turning, pushing or pulling the switch, shifting gear to change RPMs and thus amps from alternator, it didn't change a thing. I was thinking loose wire at first, but now I am rathing leaning towards a busted headlight switch. Is there a circuit breaker, maybe, that could cause the described behaviour?
  6. As stated above, preferably in black w/o speaker grills. Matter of fact the left one will do. Cannot find any vendor who seems to have them. Everything before 71 is availble, but no 73s. The 70s won´t fit, will they? New or good used ones welcome.
  7. Honestly, I couldn't tell you what is in the carb but I doubt that the PO has messed with the factory setup. So, if the metering rods you mentioned are factory then yes I suppose that's what is in there. Having said that, I think I read somewhere the factory springs are yellow?
  8. I have the 1406 in my 351. Running great at idle, but from about 1800 rpm the engine is running lean, below 1% CO. You cannot feel it while driving, tho. My garage recommend re-metering or re-jetting to prevent premature valve or head gasket failure. Edelbrock states the 1406 has been designed to be lean about 2%. Any experience about running low?
  9. When I got my 73 the warning light stayed on for a minute or two after starting the engine. Although unsual I thought it might have gone out after the operating temperature was reached. Now the warning light stays on all the time whe driving and as the light comes on right from starting the engine I am certain that it goes on without (good) reason. I suspect a wire problem somewhere but dont know where to start looking and for what. Can the wire be touching ground somewhere? The wire from the sending unit is spliced into another one and wrapped with tape. Any advice for me on how the warning light works and what to check?
  10. Update.... Definitely no mammels inside the car. Smell comes from steering wheel, sort of like puke. Pulled the steering wheel (thanx, Hemi), put it in dish washer and got yelled at from wife (she had all rights to do so, the smell went into the dish washer and it took several empty runs to get it out again, so DON´T do that). The smell on the steering wheel was still there, but at least all the dirt, that built up over the decades, was gone. The plastic turned whitish/foggy and developed some ugly gray stains, probably from where the remaining water dried up in the dish washer, so again, DON´T put the steering wheel in the dish washer. I then painted the wheel with two thin coats of matt black and now I am still in the process of putting on some coats of clear. Will this cure the problem? I don´t know. I did expect the smell to vaish by the time I put on the base coat, but everytime I enter the garage I can still notice it slightly. I might end up buying a repro steering wheel and even if they are in the threehundreds I probably would have been better off doing this in the first place. Is CJ a decent place to buy?
  11. Busted engine mounts? Had this happen to a guy I know and the engine moved upon accelaration from Start, causing the throttle cable to stick.
  12. There´s a creaking sound coming from the steering (column?) of my 73, noticeable in the inside of the car when I turn the steering wheel. Noticed with only low velocities yet, but haven´t driven the car a lot as I am still working on it. Haynes says there would be joints on the steering rods that can be greased as part of the regular maintenance. Appearantly there should be dust covers that need to be taken off the get to the greasing nipples. The only greasing nipples I could locate are those on the lower ball joints where the lower trailing arms are. Are the steering joints greasable and do they have dust covers on and if so, how do I remove those?
  13. Put some poison on the floor panels, never been touched in a week or so. So no live animals, I guess. I soaked some paper towels with spray on smell neutralizer, wrapped the steering weel, put a plastic bag around it and let it sink in for some hours. Afterwards the smell from the steering weel was still noticeable, but not as bad as before. I might repeat if it comes back over the next few days. Next step down the road will be to "paint" the steering wheel with satin clear, thus sealing the smell "inside". I am convinced the clear will peal off over time but hope this will give my nose some rest for a year or so. How do I remove the steering wheel? Can I simply pry the pad off, unscrew the center nut and pull? Or do I need to use a puller and dismantle the turn signal switch, ignition switch and stuff?
  14. Thanks for the detailed instructions. I took out the gauge panel to check the indicator bulbs. One started working when I swapped left to right, matter of fact already when I twisted the socket out and back in. Bad connection or surface rust, I suppose, as the car was sitting for 15 years. The other bulb refused to lighten up in the printed circuit but did lighten up real short on the bench - that was before I dropped and killed it. Replaced bulb, went back in the car, tested - worked! That was a pretty easy fix, on to the next one... Thx 4 all the advice
  15. Are the indicators on a separate fuse or on the same as the turn signals themselves?
  16. Is the gap between the stripe and the body line above it the same from front to back (or rather middle)?
  17. Nah, not moldy, car aint wet inside, either. I am currently following the bad smelling steering wheel trace... The rim smells pretty bad and I wrapped the wheel in plastic foil for the time being to try and isolate it from the rest of the car. Some recomment to clear the rim to eliminate the smell, not sure if this will help, tho.
  18. Dave, can we please stick to automotive stuff and not culinary? ;-)) I will try the mouse trap thing but the smell is not particularily like mouse pee which is rather sharp, pungent and intense. No signs of poo either. The smell is rather thick, kind of sweet I´d say. How do dead rotten mice smell?
  19. I did find a Nest unter the back seat and some damaged paper towels in the trunk. Removed both, but didnt find any corpses. Behind the rear side panels, maybe? Inside the The heater box would be tuff to find and remove.
  20. I have a Bad smell inside my 73 vert. The car has been sitting for 15 years Ive been told, but it is in great shape minus the seat foams which are deteriorating (yellow powder all over the car). Are the seats known to develop some smell when they get old? Thx, Alex
  21. Title says it all. TS work great, incl. Hazzard but no indicators in dash. Where doI start? Is there a fuse I should check or a wire known to be prone to breaking? How do I get to the indicator bulbs, is this straight forward by taking out the gauge panel?
  22. colonel

    Hi guys

    Hi yall, name's Alex, new to the Mustang crew, been a Corvette guy most of my automotive live. Got myself a 73 vert with a 351 recently, older restoration but still in pretty good shape. Car's got a couple of bugs, though, and I hope to get the help I need to sort these out. Thx, Alex
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