Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mach 1 (302)


  • Location
    San Francisco, CA
  • Region

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

knn's Achievements


Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. IMHO, if you want a top-shelf install, talk to @TheRktmn and @midlife first, then figure out the best way to proceed. In my case, this is what I did before I ever knew about RCCI and Midlife.... My car came with the instrumentation package (center gauges), but only a clock where the tach should be. We hunted down a tach cluster and stumbled on an extra non-tach connector. Since nobody sold replacement connectors (at the time), I took the 18-pin non-tach connector, cut out a section in the middle, and JB Welded (I know, don't laugh ) it back together so it was a functional 12-pin tach connector. I reverse engineered the pinout differences between the two connectors. It was relatively simple to pull the pins out of non-tach connector and plug them into my new tach connector. I also had to tap into the circuit going from the ignition switch to the coil (right behind the tach) and put a 2-pin connector (you can get this at any auto parts store) in series for the tach signal itself. Here were my takeaways: The only negative I found with making my own 12-pin printed circuit connector was, the wiring to the connector on an actual tach wiring harness is a slightly longer than the non-tach. This makes it a tight squeeze to un/plug the cluster. Luckily, I don't remove it that much any more and this was a LOT less work than extending the wiring and WAY cheaper than replacing the entire harness. If I had to do it all again today, NPD now sells the 12-pin printed circuit connector (part number 14489-9A). No need to mess with JB Weld. Plug and play. Splicing into the tach signal was pretty easy, but don't be tempted to use crimp connectors, solder and heat shrink it! If you don't have the skills/tools for that, find someone who does (beer can be a great currency). If anything in this circuit opens, your engine won't RUN (i.e. engine just dies) Make yourself a 2-pin jumper. Remember where I said "If anything in this circuit opens, your car won't run"? This also means that, if your tach fails, your car won't run. If that happens, just reach under the dash, pull the 2-pin, plug in your jumper and drive home. I found a convenient place under the dash to clip in my jumper (it would just get lost in the console/glove box). There, that's my story. Good luck, Nick
  2. FWIW, the eBay versions don't looks 3D printed to me (albeit, I'm no expert here). The poster is also claiming: Note: I have no relationship to the eBay poster and am NOT pimping/advocating for their product. I'm just providing details I find for betterment of our community.
  3. Thanks @secluff ! Having an early-ish '71, I always appreciate whenever anyone shares the historical significance, especially considering that after 50 years there are fewer and fewer of us that remember any of these details.
  4. @Spike Morelli the only problem I have with drum brakes is when they get wet. We had an old IHC Travelall when I was a kid. Whenever it would rain and we hit a puddle, water would get into the drums and make it impossible to stop for a light.
  5. Ha! And, I thought we were the only ones who celebrate car birthdays with gifts
  6. I've been looking for these for a while, but holy crap $255. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-MUSTANG-BOSS-351-WINDSHIELD-FENDER-FILLERS/254827475338?hash=item3b54e6b18a:g:m2wAAOSwNFpf9ixt
  7. I've found that if you're looking for a cruiser (i.e. not road racing, autocross, etc.), the stock front disk/rear drum setup works just fine for the weight of the car. As was pointed out above, most of the braking is done up front so changing to rear disc (albeit a fun project) isn't going to make that much difference, at least not in dry conditions. What struck me was, "super soft as I need to really step on it to stop in reverse". You didn't say you hear grinding when your brake so I don't think just freshening up the pads/shoes will solve this. Assuming everything else is working, it sounds to me like the brake system needs to be bled and the rear shoes adjusted. Here's what I did on our Mach 1 when she had similar problems: Checked all four corners to make sure we weren't metal-to-metal Checked to make sure all four corners were actually working (had one sticking caliper and one leaky wheel cylinder) Flushed and bled the hydraulic system Hand adjusted the rear brakes If the above doesn't fix your problem, it could be the master cylinder. Luckily most of these parts are inexpensive ($25 for calipers, $15 for wheel cylinders), but stick with a good brand when replacing parts. I've had good luck with Raybestos. BTW, once everything is in working order, the rear self-adjusters work when you hit the brakes in reverse. I had a '67 once that almost only ever saw forward driving. The brakes never felt right until I figured out the self-adjusters. After that, I made sure to get some solid reverse braking in every week. Problem solved. Good luck, Nick
  8. You didn't mention if this had ram air. If so, I'd be interested. Thanks, Nick
  9. Thanks @Don C! I definitely don't like buying parts I don't need (it takes away from the budget for parts I do need) The sector shaft isn't moving. The movement is definitely between the Pitman arm and the drag link. I'll take another look, but it sure sounds like Pitman arm needs replacing. Thanks again, Nick
  10. With the engine off, one wheel on the ground, I get about 1 inch of jiggle with my hands at 9 and 3 on the off-the-ground wheel. I'm sure that's contributing to my car's waywardness. When I get under the car, I can see that the slop is coming from where the drag link connects to the Pitman arm. The castle nut is totally tight (with a cotter pin). Any ideas on which one needs replacing? Thanks, Nick
  11. @Bentworker you are my hero! This was perfect. Thanks so much, Nick
  12. Thanks a ton @Bentworker! The PO ran it up the tunnel and tied it off to the lockout arm on the steering column. It touched the exhaust in two places. Nick
  13. I noticed that the PO ran the speedo cable so that it would touch the exhaust in two places. I have a replacement cable, but don't see an obvious way of routing the cable away from the exhaust. Does anyone have any pictures on speedo cable routing they can share? Thanks, Nick
  14. Ah, got it @3514boltstang. I'm looking for deluxe door panels. Thanks
  • Create New...