Jump to content

knn

Members
  • Posts

    106
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by knn

  1. @secluff I had the same question. Historical fact and pictures, your explanation was perfect!!! Thanks
  2. Our Mach 1 has a 1 1/8 up front and 7/8 out back. Feels like a totally different car than it was with stock sway bar up front + no sway bar in the back. For me and my style of driving, this feels just right. I'm no suspension engineer, but from what I remember... The larger the front sway bar, the flatter the turn entry (less lean - this is what sway bars do) and the more the car wants to understeer. The larger the rear sway bar, the more the car wants to oversteer. As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, it's all about finding the right balance for the type of driving you do. If you want to experience this first hand, remove your front sway while leaving your rear. Take her for a spin and you'll see how the tail wants to come around (oversteer) on every turn. This is great if you're feeling nostalgic for Malibu Gran Prix, but IMHO a bit too much work for a daily driver
  3. They say, "A picture is worth a thousand words." I thought the quarter trim would go over the pillar trim. This makes so much more sense. Thanks!!! Nick
  4. I have a '71 Mach 1 (fastback). Does anyone know how these trims are installed. I can't seem to figure out how to make the quarter trim panels work with them.
  5. Like I said, I know that wasn't how you're supposed to do it, but after a LOT of foul language I decided to focus on the gear that I cared about (D) and see if all the other pieces would just fall into place. Good luck, Nick
  6. We had similar problems when we replaced our C4. For us, it was a misalignment between the detents in the shifter and the detents in the transmission (and of course alignment with the neutral safety switch). I know this isn't the way you're supposed to do it, but what worked for us was... loosen shifter linkage manually put the transmission in drive (count off the clicks) put the shifter in drive tighten the linkage Oh yeah, then fiddle with the neutral safety switch until you can get the car to start in P or N and the reverse lights to come on in R. Hope this helps, Nick
  7. Thanks @Hemikiller! That was perfect. You gave me all the details I need on how to make it look original
  8. This is a great thread everyone! I'm sure all of us have (or will) struggle with this at one time or another. I have a Pertronix III on our 71, but after reading so many horror stories about nuking your tach, I've never had the guts to run it with the tach connected. But reading through this, I have hope. Since the tach is inline and basically a current meter, does it introduce resistance in the ignition circuit? My Pertronix doesn't like anything but full voltage (misses at idles and/or stalls when put in reverse) My motor is an older 302. It doesn't have an anti-dieseling solenoid. Any ideas where I find the wiring for the anti-dieseling solenoid? I have the normal 302 engine wiring harness. Pictures would be great!! Lastly, from what I've read, the Pertronix III (not I or II) is a multi-spark ignition. Doesn't this create extra current pulse that will throw off the tach (read high)? Having @TheRktmn convert my tach is my fallback on getting this all working. At the moment, we don't want to run any new wires into the engine compartment (we're going for the sleeper, factory-looking build).
  9. The convertible and fastback quarters are most assuredly different, but I suspect the detent is the same. I didn't realize NPD had just the bottom part of the quarter. That may be a good way to go too.
  10. I thought of that, but given that it's a compound shape, I have more faith in my welding than my metalworking. On that note, what do I have to lose.
  11. We noticed that the PO of our 1971 Mach 1 must have been in an accident and had the repair done by an absolute idiot. They flattened out the shaped detent for the rear bumper (I do acknowledge my own mental deficiency for not noticing this for 3 years). Anyone have a quarter panel cutout they can part with? Thanks, Nick
  12. Do you still have the oil cap? If so, does it say Autolite or Motorcraft on the top? How much?
  13. I'm trying to figure out the correct shoes and drums for our 1971 Mach 1 w/ 351c. The way I got her from the PO was a mess. She had 4 different size tires, different drums side-to-side, etc. When we replaced the rear brakes, the local auto parts store sold us 1 3/4" x 10 shoes (I didn't know any better then :( ) According to the shop manuals, I think she should have come with 2" shoes, but I've also seen people say it's a crap shoot with what Ford put on the car. My questions: Can put take your pick on installing 1 3/4 or 2 inch (as long as the drums and shoes? I've also heard people say that you can use 2 1/2 with a 2 1/2 inch backing plate. Is that true and/or worth it? Much appreciated, Nick
  14. OMG! Thanks @Hemikiller! This was perfect!
  15. Thanks! I think I have both yokes. Can anyone measure their FMX driveshaft length? Thank you
  16. We got the oem tooling version (I think from CJ Pony Parts, on sale). It fit well and looks like should.
  17. Does anyone know if the driveshaft is the same for a C4 and and FMX behind a 351c (H-code)? Thanks
  18. Hey @Vinnie, please post picture of the work in progress. I have to repair my cowl hat and could use some inspiration. Thanks!
  19. Multi-spark ignition was going to be guess for the discrepancy between the timing light tach and the dwell meter tach. @DagGulag I know this thread is years old, but did you ever find the solution. I have almost exactly the same problem and am getting a little tired of banging my head against the wall.
  20. IMHO, if you want a top-shelf install, talk to @TheRktmn and @midlife first, then figure out the best way to proceed. In my case, this is what I did before I ever knew about RCCI and Midlife.... My car came with the instrumentation package (center gauges), but only a clock where the tach should be. We hunted down a tach cluster and stumbled on an extra non-tach connector. Since nobody sold replacement connectors (at the time), I took the 18-pin non-tach connector, cut out a section in the middle, and JB Welded (I know, don't laugh ) it back together so it was a functional 12-pin tach connector. I reverse engineered the pinout differences between the two connectors. It was relatively simple to pull the pins out of non-tach connector and plug them into my new tach connector. I also had to tap into the circuit going from the ignition switch to the coil (right behind the tach) and put a 2-pin connector (you can get this at any auto parts store) in series for the tach signal itself. Here were my takeaways: The only negative I found with making my own 12-pin printed circuit connector was, the wiring to the connector on an actual tach wiring harness is a slightly longer than the non-tach. This makes it a tight squeeze to un/plug the cluster. Luckily, I don't remove it that much any more and this was a LOT less work than extending the wiring and WAY cheaper than replacing the entire harness. If I had to do it all again today, NPD now sells the 12-pin printed circuit connector (part number 14489-9A). No need to mess with JB Weld. Plug and play. Splicing into the tach signal was pretty easy, but don't be tempted to use crimp connectors, solder and heat shrink it! If you don't have the skills/tools for that, find someone who does (beer can be a great currency). If anything in this circuit opens, your engine won't RUN (i.e. engine just dies) Make yourself a 2-pin jumper. Remember where I said "If anything in this circuit opens, your car won't run"? This also means that, if your tach fails, your car won't run. If that happens, just reach under the dash, pull the 2-pin, plug in your jumper and drive home. I found a convenient place under the dash to clip in my jumper (it would just get lost in the console/glove box). There, that's my story. Good luck, Nick
  21. FWIW, the eBay versions don't looks 3D printed to me (albeit, I'm no expert here). The poster is also claiming: Note: I have no relationship to the eBay poster and am NOT pimping/advocating for their product. I'm just providing details I find for betterment of our community.
  22. Thanks @secluff ! Having an early-ish '71, I always appreciate whenever anyone shares the historical significance, especially considering that after 50 years there are fewer and fewer of us that remember any of these details.
  23. @Spike Morelli the only problem I have with drum brakes is when they get wet. We had an old IHC Travelall when I was a kid. Whenever it would rain and we hit a puddle, water would get into the drums and make it impossible to stop for a light.
  24. Ha! And, I thought we were the only ones who celebrate car birthdays with gifts
×
×
  • Create New...