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About brushwolf

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    Mustangs are cool

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    73 Fastback Mach clone, 466, CJ Toploader


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  1. Some 2v will pull better at low rpm on takeoff. No contest overall though, generally the 4v is going to add probably 15 hp by itself. If that were not the case why would hi-po cars not all be using 2v carbs? The 2v can't process enough fuel and air at higher rpm. Not much point in switching the intake, if retaining a 2v carb. The engine is an air pump. More gas and fuel going in and out creates more power. Boring the engine by itself adds a few CI, that's it. That is major, major engine work and part of a complete rebuild. And you said nothing radical, which a total rebuild would b
  2. If it is all stock, it probably has a 2 barrel carb and points ignition. 4 barrel carb and aftermarket aluminum intake for 2v heads, plus switch ignition to electronic using one of the conversion kits. 400M exhaust manifolds are also better than the 2v exhaust manifolds. Get a 1970 timing chain and gears, the later ones are retarded timing from the factory. While you are in there, might as well do a better cam too, though..
  3. For anyone reading this who has not already done so: Rebuild your door hinges before even starting any other corrections involving these long heavy doors which wreak havoc on hinges Even a teensy bit of slop at the front is multiplied exponentially at the rear. You will still have alignment and gap issues, but they will be consistent...
  4. I have had literally hundreds of cars, lots of convertibles among them. The convertibles even in good condition have way more horizontal flex. First, noticed this on a 57 convertible back in 1968. And that was with massive x-frames in them besides full perimeter frames. Every convertible I have had since then exhibited that same horizontal flex tendency, and the tight doors if one end lifted. So use jacks and lifts with extra care on any convertible. And as mentioned, having a drivetrain in it - or not - may well effect door gaps on convertibles also. But, yours is not a convertible and
  5. I did the 460 (it was already built at the time and 351c was out to repair rear main leak and pull bad C6 anyway..). 429 mounts, 429 PI exhaust manifolds (simplicity, but better flow than 71 460 manifolds), had a big spline Torino toploader on hand already too. Used the 71 Lincoln Mark 3 radiator and the 351c PS pump bolted to the Lincoln brackets. Install was not complex. Standard smaller spline 4 speed is tough, but will be taxed similarly with either a stroker or a 460, so isn't a big factor between the 2 options presented, idt. If jacking up a 351c to approach 460 torque outputs, th
  6. Not sure if the stock Lincoln ones fit, but suspect they might (there are several variations thru the years, early ones are most compact). But the 429 PI manifolds do fit well in my 73 with 460 and appear to be a better flowing design without header headaches. Nothing to modify beyond adding header pipes to mate to existing 351c dual exhaust. Not sure if the PI manifolds are hard to find anymore, but a few years back they came up on EBay now and then..
  7. I have a good flat hood off a southern origin car (not rusted underneath or on top) and a couple of scooped hoods in MN. Flat hood wouldn't fit with my BB and aftermarket intake.
  8. IDK about 71, but my 73 I think is original and they are Phillips head screws with large diameter integral flat washer on them.
  9. I had always assumed that the 71-73 Mustang was far heavier than earlier models, but the difference does not appear to be that much given that the 429-460 BB fits and torque provided far outweighs weight gain. These numbers are from ClassicMustang.com and do not specify engine size so likely these are all versions with small blocks, anyone have contradictory information? 1967 - 2,758 lbs 1968 - 2,758 1969 - 3,122 1970 - 3,122 1971 - 3,086 1972 - 3,086 1973 - 3,126 (presumably 40 added lbs. is mostly impact-resistant front bumper, so similar weight to 71-72 if using the earlier
  10. First one I ever saw was bright orange 72 Mach and belonged to the brother of a friend. Thought it was kind of strange looking with the flat back window and saw it as just another evolution of a popular car that didn't look like an improvement. Decades went by and I still didn't really care for them, but ended up taking one with broken C6 in trade on a Corvette I had decided to sell. At first I was just going to sell it also, but never got around to actually making much effort to do so. Being I had the empty garage stall and the body appeared fairly well-preserved, it got the vacant Co
  11. Always preferred sticks and still do, but as you get older the automatics do have some advantages that you may appreciate more. In addition to keeping you behind the wheel, if you have a spouse that isn't too stick-proficient and you might want to have fill in now and then as the driver, it gives you more options. Sitting here recovering from shoulder surgery and with a spouse that is downright scary using a stick, I am even considering going with an automatic in one of my project cars that for years I would have never even considered and have accumulated all the stick parts to finish.
  12. I removed my fastback 73 rear glass for headliner replacement and intend to re-install it shortly once recovered from shoulder surgery. I think I would rather use the sealant method than the tape and seeing if there are any additional pointers or precautions to doing it this way. Have a new rubber gasket and assuming there is only one type of 3M glass sealant, do I fit the rubber to the glass, inject continuous 1/8" (?) bead in the outer gasket lip with the window laying flat? Turn it over and do the inside also, or is just the outside sufficient? Once the sealer is installed between
  13. That is a huge engine bay and would look strange with most of the smaller engines unless all bulked up with turbos and such stuff. My 460 is already built and installed, but if I had to do it over today I would still go 460 - but with CJ aluminum heads and intake to bring the weight down. Even more brute torque and horsepower for a reasonable price, without having to deal with complexities/costs of turbo's, electronic controls, etc. CJ aluminum heads and intake are not cheap either, but core 460's abundant and available cheap. When built up modestly, you get all the power you could
  14. Just thought I would update this now that new solenoid and transistorized voltage regulator are installed. Took a while since I am also working on a rebuilt roller 5.0 2000 Explorer motor (now with aluminum heads) for an MGB swap. Swapping out the solenoid on the 73 did nothing, car still ran when key turned off. Found out I was wrong that the voltage regulator had been replaced once I had removed it. It was probably original, just looked new cuz I had apparently removed, painted it nicely and re-installed it when engine compartment was cleaned up for 460 install. So, then insta
  15. Thanks! Didn't see the image first time I looked at your reply. Switch looks kind of like some old brake light switches too.. Have to see if I can find automatic shifter I took out of the car and see if NSS is still on it.
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