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brushwolf

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Everything posted by brushwolf

  1. Some 2v will pull better at low rpm on takeoff. No contest overall though, generally the 4v is going to add probably 15 hp by itself. If that were not the case why would hi-po cars not all be using 2v carbs? The 2v can't process enough fuel and air at higher rpm. Not much point in switching the intake, if retaining a 2v carb. The engine is an air pump. More gas and fuel going in and out creates more power. Boring the engine by itself adds a few CI, that's it. That is major, major engine work and part of a complete rebuild. And you said nothing radical, which a total rebuild would be imo, if engine is mechanically sound now. Cam selection depends on compression ratio, intended rpm use, transmission and rear gears, tire sizes etc. Many cams available, but just the non-retarded version of timing sets will be noticeable. Any cam company like Crane or Crower, Edelbrock can advise what will work best with your other components. Changing timing set requires pulling water pump and front cover off engine, belts, pulleys, etc. But, if you are also switching intake then you are most of the way to changing out the cam anyway.
  2. If it is all stock, it probably has a 2 barrel carb and points ignition. 4 barrel carb and aftermarket aluminum intake for 2v heads, plus switch ignition to electronic using one of the conversion kits. 400M exhaust manifolds are also better than the 2v exhaust manifolds. Get a 1970 timing chain and gears, the later ones are retarded timing from the factory. While you are in there, might as well do a better cam too, though..
  3. For anyone reading this who has not already done so: Rebuild your door hinges before even starting any other corrections involving these long heavy doors which wreak havoc on hinges Even a teensy bit of slop at the front is multiplied exponentially at the rear. You will still have alignment and gap issues, but they will be consistent...
  4. I have had literally hundreds of cars, lots of convertibles among them. The convertibles even in good condition have way more horizontal flex. First, noticed this on a 57 convertible back in 1968. And that was with massive x-frames in them besides full perimeter frames. Every convertible I have had since then exhibited that same horizontal flex tendency, and the tight doors if one end lifted. So use jacks and lifts with extra care on any convertible. And as mentioned, having a drivetrain in it - or not - may well effect door gaps on convertibles also. But, yours is not a convertible and the metal rigid top makes a huge difference. Even rusty hardtops usually have more horizontal rigidity than pristine convertibles. I also do prefer having the drive train already in before exterior paint in either a convertible or a hardtop, but that is mostly because I worry about scratching expensive new paint. These cars do seem to exhibit really poor gaps even from the factory. But, it was the 70's and that era was not known for quality. That said, I was told by a restorer years ago that you need to start with the doors parallel to rockers (with original straight door bottoms) and set gaps from the B pillar going forward. That is the baseline, good gaps on rocker and rear of door to quarter. Don't worry too much about front fender to door alignment at that point. Depending on how the front fender is adjusted can throw everything off. With the door bottom to rocker panel straight that usually is going to give you the best alignment to the quarter that can be obtained with the hinges. If a decent uniform door to quarter gap cannot be established, I am conflicted about building up original unmolested door edges by welding, cuz that means no door that is not similarly modified will fit right either if a replacement is ever needed. Since we are typically talking about an eighth of an inch added at most, I wonder if building the quarter leading edge might be preferable instead? Then deal with any front fender to door gap issues, if any present.
  5. I did the 460 (it was already built at the time and 351c was out to repair rear main leak and pull bad C6 anyway..). 429 mounts, 429 PI exhaust manifolds (simplicity, but better flow than 71 460 manifolds), had a big spline Torino toploader on hand already too. Used the 71 Lincoln Mark 3 radiator and the 351c PS pump bolted to the Lincoln brackets. Install was not complex. Standard smaller spline 4 speed is tough, but will be taxed similarly with either a stroker or a 460, so isn't a big factor between the 2 options presented, idt. If jacking up a 351c to approach 460 torque outputs, then similar power load either way. Weight factor can be minimized with aluminum intake and aluminum 460 heads, moderate or high-buck versions.. Aluminum radiator and water pump if so inclined.. Downtime? A year or more? If the 351 is driveable now, it won't be once a stroker project is undertaken. With the 460 you can continue to drive the 351 continuously until 460 is ready and you have acquired any needed conversion parts. And you can change your mind in the interim if you want... Cost? 460 build with aluminum heads is probably in the same ball park cost-wise as a good stroker, but with likely more durability/longevity. Keep the original 351c to sell with the car when the time comes (it will..). The 351c is one of my favorite motors. I have 3 of them. But the bolt-in aspect and large engine bay built to take the big block has an appeal and ease that swapping a 460 into most other cars just does not approach.
  6. Not sure if the stock Lincoln ones fit, but suspect they might (there are several variations thru the years, early ones are most compact). But the 429 PI manifolds do fit well in my 73 with 460 and appear to be a better flowing design without header headaches. Nothing to modify beyond adding header pipes to mate to existing 351c dual exhaust. Not sure if the PI manifolds are hard to find anymore, but a few years back they came up on EBay now and then..
  7. I have a good flat hood off a southern origin car (not rusted underneath or on top) and a couple of scooped hoods in MN. Flat hood wouldn't fit with my BB and aftermarket intake.
  8. IDK about 71, but my 73 I think is original and they are Phillips head screws with large diameter integral flat washer on them.
  9. I had always assumed that the 71-73 Mustang was far heavier than earlier models, but the difference does not appear to be that much given that the 429-460 BB fits and torque provided far outweighs weight gain. These numbers are from ClassicMustang.com and do not specify engine size so likely these are all versions with small blocks, anyone have contradictory information? 1967 - 2,758 lbs 1968 - 2,758 1969 - 3,122 1970 - 3,122 1971 - 3,086 1972 - 3,086 1973 - 3,126 (presumably 40 added lbs. is mostly impact-resistant front bumper, so similar weight to 71-72 if using the earlier bumper) So, if these published weights are roughly correct, the 71-73 does not appear any heavier than similarly-equipped sought after 69-70 models and only 3,086-2,758 = 328 lbs more than the much smaller 67-68 which chassis won't easily accept the 385 series engines that easily offsets that much added weight with additional torque.
  10. First one I ever saw was bright orange 72 Mach and belonged to the brother of a friend. Thought it was kind of strange looking with the flat back window and saw it as just another evolution of a popular car that didn't look like an improvement. Decades went by and I still didn't really care for them, but ended up taking one with broken C6 in trade on a Corvette I had decided to sell. At first I was just going to sell it also, but never got around to actually making much effort to do so. Being I had the empty garage stall and the body appeared fairly well-preserved, it got the vacant Corvette garage stall. It had an Atlanta Falcons window sticker on it, so it had been a southern car and the transmission issues had kept it off salted Minnesota roads until I got it. As I had it sitting in my garage, I gradually began to appreciate it more visually, became aware of the mechanical improvements over earlier models and that it really wasn't all that much heavier than immediately preceding versions. And it had the 385 series-friendly engine compartment while I already had a professionally rebuilt 460 sitting on a stand that would bolt right in. Once that idea took hold, really had to convert it to a 4 speed. Then it really needed Mach gauges, wiring and different rear axle to suit the replaced drivetrain. Subframe connectors to handle the extra power.. Of course, 429 coil springs and rebuild the steering and brakes... While all this transpired, it became clear that structurally, the car was really solid. Likely due to southern origins followed by years of inside storage since it came up north, Couldn't just leave the perfectly good flat hood on it, so it got the scooped hood and eventually decided it really should have functional Ram Air, so now it does (along with sport mirrors, wing, chin spoiler, etc..). Now I think the body style looks tough, instead of odd. So, for me it just kind of grew on me and it's gradually become part of the family, though many other cars have come and gone over the years. The nephew I got it from wants to get it back now I recently heard, but I am no longer inclined to part with it. Hopefully won't need to for many years yet.
  11. Always preferred sticks and still do, but as you get older the automatics do have some advantages that you may appreciate more. In addition to keeping you behind the wheel, if you have a spouse that isn't too stick-proficient and you might want to have fill in now and then as the driver, it gives you more options. Sitting here recovering from shoulder surgery and with a spouse that is downright scary using a stick, I am even considering going with an automatic in one of my project cars that for years I would have never even considered and have accumulated all the stick parts to finish. Am assuming I will be functional in the right arm in a couple months again. But, even if I am not then the automatic looks preferable to riding shotgun.. So, a 59 TBird I am working on will remain automatic (modified C6 replacing the CM & modified 390 instead of original 352) and my 73 fastback with 460 will remain converted to manual... Gives me multiple options that I would never have considered 10-20 years ago..
  12. I removed my fastback 73 rear glass for headliner replacement and intend to re-install it shortly once recovered from shoulder surgery. I think I would rather use the sealant method than the tape and seeing if there are any additional pointers or precautions to doing it this way. Have a new rubber gasket and assuming there is only one type of 3M glass sealant, do I fit the rubber to the glass, inject continuous 1/8" (?) bead in the outer gasket lip with the window laying flat? Turn it over and do the inside also, or is just the outside sufficient? Once the sealer is installed between the gasket and glass, then use small rope technique as usually used on older cars to fit the window with gasket assembly into the opening and after that, inject a similar continuous bead (1/8" diameter again?) between the gasket and the metal flange on the outside only. Then install exterior trim and no wait time necessary since sealer never fully hardens anyway? That about it? Any cleanup hints in case sealer gets on glass or body during the process? I may be over-thinking this, but trying to make sure the steps are all perfectly clear in my mind and I can jump right into it once my arm is functional again. My pain-killer med's are not conducive to focus and concentration. Thanks, Mike
  13. That is a huge engine bay and would look strange with most of the smaller engines unless all bulked up with turbos and such stuff. My 460 is already built and installed, but if I had to do it over today I would still go 460 - but with CJ aluminum heads and intake to bring the weight down. Even more brute torque and horsepower for a reasonable price, without having to deal with complexities/costs of turbo's, electronic controls, etc. CJ aluminum heads and intake are not cheap either, but core 460's abundant and available cheap. When built up modestly, you get all the power you could want (or most people would want) in a fairly simple and easier to repair and troubleshoot package than the newer engines - and it all pretty much bolts together. Plus, there is an abundance of bolt on parts to be had aftermarket since some of these cars came with 429 and the 460 is the same motor with a longer stroke. Even with the big block I have a reasonable amount of room to work around motor, though if using headers that would make it a little tougher. My car just uses 429 PI exhaust manifolds which flow better than stock 460 manifolds and fit well. Extra horses from headers weren't worth the headaches of adding them to me. I agree with previous poster that said the weight is the biggest downside of the 429/460, but if you can afford the cost of turbos and extensive mod's or acquisition costs for some of the newer/smaller motors, the aluminum heads for 429/460 are probably cheaper in the long run than all the mod's - and you don't end up with a car that is too far removed in appearance or complexity from what the factory issued. Also agree that both 351c and 351w are even easier, no big weight penalty and can get by without aluminum heads, if that cost is a factor. Plus they have the most flexibility as far as your choice of transmissions. Not sure why anyone would use a 302 (or stroked to 347 302), being it is a tiny motor and engine bay is too big visually for it. I have built a couple 460's, 351C, have a 351W on test run stand and building an aluminum head 302 right now. But the 302 is going in an MGB, so it doesn't look like a peanut in the MGB engine bay, while it would in my 73. No one of these all Ford motors has been noticeably more costly to rebuild than others yet either. In fact, the both my DOVE headed 460's were cheaper to build than the 302 (and would have been even without the aluminum heads on 302), but that is mostly a function of inflation apparently, as 460's were built years ago and 302 just now. Machine shop prices for boring, head rebuilding, etc. are a lot higher than 15-20 years ago. But having a block machined or heads rebuilt isn't much different from one engine family or displacement to another these days. So, I'd go with 429/460 first (the most torque for the money), then either 351C or 351W (both can be stroked to about 400 CI without breaking the bank too, if displacement is an issue and you dislike the 429/460 option). Again mostly everything bolts together.. But why stroke a smaller motor to get more displacement when BB is probably even cheaper with even more displacement and will be more durable as well, since it is not stretched to its limits? Coyotes, LS motors, 302 or V6? All fine motors for other applications, but in a 71-73 engine bay? Why torture yourself and your finances when both simpler and cheaper options are available that fit the car appropriately? Regardless of how fond you are of the car, some day you will tire of the car and want or need to sell it. The odder the combination, the worse beating you will take on parting with it. Nobody else has one equipped that way? That's cuz almost nobody really wants them modified that way and that will become apparent when you try to sell it, if it isn't now. My two cents... :D
  14. Just thought I would update this now that new solenoid and transistorized voltage regulator are installed. Took a while since I am also working on a rebuilt roller 5.0 2000 Explorer motor (now with aluminum heads) for an MGB swap. Swapping out the solenoid on the 73 did nothing, car still ran when key turned off. Found out I was wrong that the voltage regulator had been replaced once I had removed it. It was probably original, just looked new cuz I had apparently removed, painted it nicely and re-installed it when engine compartment was cleaned up for 460 install. So, then installed the new regulator though getting doubtful it would make any difference either. It did though.. :) Car shuts off with key now. :D Apparently the car continuing to run when key turned off was due to stuck contacts in the old mechanical regulator. It has a riveted cover, rather than being held on by screws, so couldn't easily take it apart and haven't opened it yet. Not sure I'll even bother taking it apart now to confirm, since it is already replaced and working with the nice Motorcraft transistorized unit anyway, but motivation returning after that obstacle finally surmounted. Onward to the next tasks, finally...
  15. Thanks! Didn't see the image first time I looked at your reply. Switch looks kind of like some old brake light switches too.. Have to see if I can find automatic shifter I took out of the car and see if NSS is still on it.
  16. Found a bunch of threads on VMF that indicate running after key turned off is possibly due to solenoid or voltage regulator contacts inside sticking. Seems a more common problem than I thought. Solenoid contacts when sticking keeps "I" terminal hot, even when shut off and voltage regulator contacts sticking back feeds alternator output to ignition circuit too apparently. Regulator was new, but I see a 2002 post indicates even new ones can stick contact points, even good brands right out of the box. So, I am going first with the $20 for new Blue Streak solenoid since it still has the original solenoid (one of very few things that isn't new under the hood already) and if that doesn't work, then switch to a transistorized Motorcraft voltage regulator which is supposed to eliminate any possible current back feed issues going from alternator into ignition circuit. Worst case, it doesn't cure the problem but eliminates a couple possibilities reasonably cheap and I will have an extra old 1973 solenoid and new old style regulator of unknown brand.. Dirt cheap still compared to fixing anything electrical on newer cars... A 3rd less likely possibility is worn out ignition switch (really doubtful though in my case, since the hot coil wire has no voltage with key off and engine not running). None of those fix it, then I'll get it in to reputable street rod shop and let them figure it out. Only care to farm stuff out if I can't figure it out myself or don't have the right equipment (paint, custom exhaust, wheel alignment). But, if I can rebuild the motor, the Toploader, the rear end and complete front suspension including brakes, along with rear glass removal and install, door hinge rebuilds and a bunch of other minor body work including functional Ram Air hood and new deck lid, I at least have to give it a shot fixing the running-with-key-off issue first. Have had pro shops throwing parts at my commuter cars that didn't fix the problem initially either, so my throwing a couple more fairly cheap parts at it isn't too big a sin IDT... They just excuse themselves saying the vehicle had multiple issues to cover themselves when they do it. Wish me luck. This is fun, right? :D
  17. midlifeYes, the factory tach is in line between the ignition switch and the + side of the coil. Ford has a resistor wire from the output side of the tach in the circuitry going from there to the + side of the coil. The factory tach does not use any signal from the - side of the coil. There should not be 2 wires on the I post on the starter solenoid. There may need to be an external resistor on the coil if the coil itself has too low a resistance; the coil needs 1.5 ohms in addition to the 1.5 ohms of the resistor wire. What you describe is a mess of band-aides trying to patch things together to make the car run. A lot of your problems may be related to the headlight harness, which contains all of the wiring for ignition to the starter solenoid and coil, among other things. If the 4 pin plug is truly your NSS/BU switch, there is no way to start the car if the NSS side of the plug is not jumpered. You need someone competent in electrical trouble-shooting nearby to inspect your wiring and determine what the hell is going on. What you describe is almost too complicated to trouble-shoot over the 'Net. It only sounds that way cuz it is.. Good body, but just an abandoned project I took in trade with a bad transmission for a Corvette I had tired of. Was going to just resell the Mustang, but had the rebuilt 460 sitting on engine stand and CJ Toploader. Since those bolt in, one thing just led to another and I developed a fondness for the Mustang, so decided to keep it. But, it being a garage fixture for so many years, I forgot some of what I did to the car. Believe I changed out underwood wiring harness with headlight wiring too, because cars w/o gauges and tach are different than those with gauges. IIR, the Junction block by voltage regulator isn't on non-gauge cars for whatever reason.. (see first pic above). "I" terminal of solenoid only has one factory connector with one wire on it. Sorry if I made it sound otherwise in previous post. But, it does start without the 4 pin plug jumped, so maybe that's a clue to what is wrong... Anyway, learning that it has resistor wire in tach circuit as you said, decided to try by-passing resistor on coil just now and it starts and runs with key and not hot wired. (Figured the most I would do is burn up the stock coil...) Had it running about 10 minutes and coil didn't get hot and tach is working too. First time I have seen it work, so feels like progress even if it isn't the end of issues. However, when I turn off the key, it keeps on running. Choked it to stop motor and checked coil positive wire with key off and it has no juice at all, so almost has to be the ignition circuit is somehow being energized by the alternator when it is running. If it was a wire hooked in the wrong place, it would still show power to the ignition when not running, wouldn't it? Nobody in the immediate area I know of that is a real good electrical troubleshooter, but plan on hauling it to alignment, paint and muffler shops anyway so if I have to haul to Mpls or somewhere I will. You did get me thinking about a street rod outfit about 30 miles away though, that might be up to the task. But I want to be able to start the car to load and unload from trailer. Lot easier to do that than load, unload, move into shops and out if it moves under its own power.
  18. This is a 73 which did not come with factory gauges or tach. They were swapped in a decade ago along with rebuilt 71 Lincoln 460 with DOVE heads and CJ toploader which replaced 351 and C6. Not run since installed, except when hot wired. Has factory 71 Lincoln coil with a resistor mounted on it and a Mallory dual point ignition. Starts only by jumping full 12 volts separate wire direct to coil on startup. Of course, it has been so long ago that I abandoned this project in my garage that I have forgotten exactly what I swapped in, but believe I had scrounged up all the wiring for factory tach and gauges off EBay and a nearby salvage yard and had installed them. Trio of factory gauges (ammeter, temp, oil pressure) appears to work when ignition key is in "on" position and engine running. Tach apparently doesn't work though and engine starts running rough and dies if I take the "Hotwire" off coil. Also there are 4 wires on two connectors hanging down from firewall (which I assume are backup lights and neutral start switch) and are not connected to anything.. Engine still cranks with key though, so don't think those are related to my lack of ignition voltage. Backup lights irrelevant and engine would not crank over at all if an open neutral start switch was the culprit. Car was previously equipped with a C6, but am guessing replacement wiring must have circumvented that switch for it to even crank over with key. Using a test light, ignition hot wire appears to have a nominal current to coil wire after the resistor in "on" or "start" ignition key position. But, not much.. Lights up brighter in "start" than "on" key position, but dim in both cases. The 12 volt small test bulb lights up somewhat better when hooked up before the resistor, still somewhat dim in "on" position, but brighter again in "start" position.. I know on most older Fords that the "I" terminal on solenoid would usually have a second wire to coil positive terminal that provided the full 12 volts to coil only when ignition turned to "start" position and solenoid activated. But, this 73 wiring already has a second factory right angle end wire on the "I" solenoid terminal and it only has one ignition wire to the resistor on coil and then another from resistor to the coil positive terminal. I am guessing that maybe, somewhere inside the wiring harness, that wire on the "I" terminal connects into the same ignition circuit that my single coil wire is on and it momentarily sends a full 12 volts to coil circuit when key is in "start" position. 1) Does the 73 wiring by chance have a GM-like resistor wire somewhere in its ignition circuitry, so by use of the separate 1971 resistor mounted on coil, I am actually reducing the voltage twice as much as I should be? 2) Can someone with coil ignition and factory tach and gauges confirm that there is only the one ignition wire to resistor and/or coil on hot side and whether there is even an external resistor present on a 73? If there is a second wire to coil positive terminal, what color and where does it come from? After lots of reading, stumbled across the fact (?) that the ignition current also runs through the factory tach and so if tach fails, then ignition circuit fails also. Not sure what years that applied to.. Aftermarket tachs usually have a wire from tach to negative of coil, but none present here, just a single wire from coil negative terminal to distributor.. 3) Shouldn't there be another wire for the tach at coil negative terminal? If so, what color? 4) Is this true that factory tach is part of ignition circuit? And if it is, how come I have any juice at all to coil from factory ignition hot wire when tach doesn't appear to work? Or does tach failure just diminish the ignition voltage, but not necessarily eliminate it? 5) How can I test tach to see if it is bad, and if it is, are they repairable? Pulled speedo/tach gauge assembly back far enough from dash to see that 2 wires plug into the dash harness from tach, so they appear to be connected at that end anyway.. Have looked at a couple wiring diagrams, but electrical ain't my strong suit.. Also, wiring colors don't match consistently, some do, others don't... Exercise in frustration... 6) Are there any other visible or hidden (or possibly missing) connectors or wires in the tach circuit that I can check to see if present and functioning? Not sure if I should be focusing on tach to see why it isn't working due to suspicion it is disabling my ignition, or if I should be focusing on ignition (or lack thereof..) as being possibly the reason the tach doesn't work - or if both issues are the result of a missing connection, wiring, or a bad tach.. Simple, common-sense practical ideas for figuring this out? Getting frustrated. Thought I was in the home stretch with almost everything new, but since have had steering line leak, several antifreeze leaks, Holley carb accelerator pump leak, wrecked a starter and had to change intake (Weiand Stealth was too tall for Ram Air stuff to allow an air filter...). Got all those other things fixed now. But, after all that I feel like I have only worked my way right back where I thought I started, in that ignition voltage is funky and tach not working.
  19. Yeah, Performer should fit vertically with 3" it looks like. Will find out if offset is required soon on mine I guess. Found paperwork from Jeg's (2002) and I paid $168.99 for the new 460 Performer intake back then. Lists for $303 on Summit today.... So, if you had the Performer a while you will probably be able to get your full purchase price back. Inflation much? Just pulled the Stealth intake and cleaning up gasket residue to ready for the Performer. I've heard only good things about the Blue Thunder and considered buying one for a 390 TBird motor I built last year, but already had a vintage F427 and a Performer for that engine too (paid around $120 apiece for those off EBay sometime back around Y2k). Bought FPA ceramic coated headers for that 390 too which I think ran over a grand alone, so buying a 3rd intake seemed foolish. So, I have the F427 intake sitting on it and probably use some of my air cleaner extra parts for that one anyway. Or maybe only bolt it on temporarily to make sure it clears the hood on TBird before installing it permanently, to avoid possibly going through all this rigamorole again... Do you recall where your point of interference was that required you to use the offset base? Mine (so far) only showed vertical clearance issues, but maybe that will change with intake change..
  20. Looks like intake will indeed have to be changed for a lower height one. No combination of bases spacers and tops fit vertically with either the 2" or 3" filter. Compared intake heights on Summit site and Stealth is 6" where Performer is only 4.12. Glad I have one on the shelf already as they are $300 now. Think when I bought it they were ~$235.. Cam is a Lunati HI268 I believe (which Summit still sells after all these years...), so Performer should be adequate for that cam (both are rated 5500 at the top of their operating range). I also have Dove heads and forged pistons which machinist took tops down a little to give me a 9.25 CR. He had ordered the Pistons for it thinking I had the later larger chamber heads.. I recall being in a quandary about whether to use the tin baffle gasket under intake, but ended up just using the fiber gaskets, thinking that carb had plenty of distance anyway on tall intake to reduce likelihood of it getting too hot (vapor lock, etc..). 1971 Lincoln Mark radiator from the same donor car as the motor fit nice in the Mustang which surprised me. Anybody using the tin baffle and side gaskets with aluminum manifolds, or just the composition side gaskets? I probably have side gaskets here already, but don't want to take apart until sure I have any parts needed..
  21. There was a good video from engine masters* on air cleaner theory.. The filter top seems to be great because the air is already traveling at a high velocity in the direction it needs to go (down into the carb throat). They ran a literal salad bowl with just a filter top and it was at the top of the performance spectrum of their comparison. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkpsydS8JXI Mike, I am confused because the picture that you see of my engine bay is with a 3" air cleaner, a 1" carb spacer, and the offset air cleaner base. With all these, I had no clearance issues. The whole filter fitted nicely inside the air ram cavity with space to spare. IDK, probably the 6" height of the Stealth intake... What intake do you have? I removed all carb spacers, except two gaskets and one aluminum plate that is only .062 thick and still air cleaner top hits hood inner structure with dropped air cleaner base. Only other thing I can think of is my motor mounts being taller? Put this motor in about 2003 and was scouring EBay daily for parts off junked 429 Mach's so would guess that is what lower mounts are from, but can't remember for sure. Do know they aren't the 351c frame mounts because those are hanging on the Cleveland which is still on a stand in my back garage.. What was the interference point before using the offset base and how much offset is the base? Air cleaner is 14" diameter ? Thanks, Mike
  22. Swapped a 466 motor and Toploader into my 1973 fastback which was originally equipped with 351c and a floor shifted automatic. Problem is that was many years ago and I had not quite finished and finally now working on it again, but not sure what some wires hanging below firewall down by bellhousing are for. There are two plugs each with two wires. One has a round rubber end female parallel double spade connection attached by black and brown wires. I am guessing this was backup light plug for the automatic transmission. Don't think my Toploader has a provision for that, so how to get backup lights working? The other separate pair of wires are brown and green and whatever connector it had has been cut off. So, just the 2 wires hanging down there. Are those the two wires that would have been attached to the neutral/park safety switch on the automatic transmission or floor shift? Tranny and shifter are both long gone, but I just found a pair of similar colored wires attached to a hard plastic round end having another female double spade connection, but with the two spade slots set in a "T" formation instead of parallel to one another. Seems likely more than a coincidence that a shelf with leftover or uninstalled parts mostly for Mustang would have a plug and wires laying there that look a lot like those cut off under car... If they are for neutral safety switch, then I can either solder them together and have start possible in or out of gear like the old days, or rig up a switch to my clutch pedal so starter circuit only completes when clutch is pushed in like modern stick cars?
  23. Here's what K&N has to say about it. Scroll down to Air Filter Selection. https://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm#SELECT Thanks for the link Don. Crunching my numbers with K&N formulas indicates that with a 14x2 filter and solid top, I would be good at 2000 RPM, short by half an inch at 3500 RPM and short by 1.29 inches at 5000 RPM. (Based on 466 CI..) That confirms my guess that the 2" filter with solid top is inadequate beyond roughly 2500 RPM, and the filtered top plate would be necessary to overcome the airflow shortfall. A 3" filter with solid top would probably suffice up to about 4500 RPM, but doubt I can squeeze that in there. So, it looks like the filtered top has to be used if I go with the 2" filter, but the filtered top being 5/8" thicker than the solid top results in only about 3/8" total height difference between the two filter heights. I have a 3" filter on the way too, so when the additional parts get here I will test fit them both. Have also looked at 2.5" height filters, but the airflow should be adequate with the 2" using the filtered top and the filtered top would still be necessary even with a 2.5" filter as well and fit even tighter. As a last resort, if neither of those prospects work out, looks like I could also remove my shock tower brace and modify (cut and re-weld) it so allows the air cleaner base to sit lower and possibly remove a 1/4" to 1/2" of the lip on the air cleaner base and maybe squeeze in the 3" filter... Hope it doesn't come to that, as I just put the tower brace back on after front suspension rebuild. Ram Air and filter-fitting nonsense is taking as long as whole front suspension and brake rebuild took.. :thankyouyellow:
  24. I looked at those offset bases, but it looks like I would have to offset at least two inches to the rear to clear shock tower brace and that would put the 14" filter 1 1/2 inches past the rear of the ram air plenum opening and even the 2" filter needs to go up inside the plenum, at least partially. A smaller 12" diameter filter could clear the tower brace too, but a 2 inch high filter in 12 inch diameter (if even available) would flow even less, so trying to stay with 14" diameter being it fits fairly well in plenum opening. Like you said when you were trying to decide which way to go with yours, I am hoping to keep at least some function of Ram Air (even though they aren't exactly all that airtight to begin with, even in stock form). If I can get the right height, I will still have roughly a 1/2 inch gap between and all around air filter outside diameter and plenum opening (I think...), but figure I can reduce that gap further by using some of the soft foam gasket material, similar to what is used on stock setups, but perhaps attach it to plenum instead of air cleaner. Another possibility might be using some of that pinch weld push-on plastic trim material around the inside of plenum hole to reduce the gap between it and air cleaner, but still allow for a little engine moment. Even if a small gap still exists though, I would think it would still create some outside air pressure right around the filter sides and result in cooler air ingestion than without the ram air functioning at all with just an under hood filter ingesting under hood air heated by the engine, as it has been until now. Can't see inside there when hood is shut either, so mocking up aluminum foil pieces and shutting hood to see where clearance issues are. But, I am not actually certain that the air cleaner is dead center in the plenum opening and haven't figured out how to mock up that blind exact clearance without getting the air cleaner height problems tackled first. Piling up a lot of air cleaner parts in this process, but I have lots of other project cars that I can probably use them on if they prove not to be needed on this one. Thanks, Mike
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