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164runner

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Everything posted by 164runner

  1. nose of car sits a little higher with new engine, aluminum heads and intake, AC removed [ did not work]. if I cut the coils, for every 1/2 coil, how much will it reduce the height? or should I contact eaton spring? like the current ride of car, do not want it to ride harder.
  2. I hope I don't have too, talked to lunati tech line. they thought I would not have to, but was not 100% sure
  3. might have to replace a bad roller cam lifter. do I have to pull head to get lifter out, because of being longer.
  4. what I thought, having a problem with lights pulsating when car is running, amp gauge needle moves, replaced alternator it helped a lot but lights still pulsate. have a new headlight switch to put in it, work on voltage regulator mounting holes, hopefully this will fix problem.
  5. does a voltage regulator use the body as a source of ground? someone has over tightened the mounting screws, cannot get it tight like it needs to be.
  6. if motor has not been rebuilt, still has original harmonic balancer, outer ring probably has moved. set timing by ear, get it to where it starts easy and shuts off easy. put vacuum gauge on it, adjust carb to get highest vacuum, set idle, drive car and see if you getting any pinging. do the easy stuff first and write it do down so you don't forget
  7. reset the timing and the carb. getting 15 to 15.5 in of vacuum now. adjusted vacuum modulator again when in 1 turn, drove car didn't see much of change. let it cool off, went in 1 more turn drove car, a little better. adjust some more latter this week, see what happens
  8. new engine 408c, 13.5 to 14 of vacuum at the manifold and at the vacuum modulator. transmission is C-6 from performance automatic. when you drive it easy, it upshifts early and seems to slip before it go in drive. if you stop and take off and give it more gas [ drive it harder ] it shifts fine. stop it, pull it back in low, manually shift it, its ok. 60mph floor it, drops to 2nd and don't let off it upshifts fine. called performance automatic said it needs 15 of vacuum at the modulator, to shift properly, if not need to go with a manual valve body and shift it manually. they said adjust vacuum modulator first , go in 3/4 to 1 turn and play around adjusting it and see if it fixes it. ideas ? am I getting told a line of crap? I did go in 3/4 a turn was no help. letting car cool off and turn it in some more and see if it helps. when engine was stock it shifted fine.
  9. done. now have sound front and back, don't sound too bad, and didn't break my bank account
  10. speakers are now 4 by 8, they are not as deep, gave me more room for the spare tire. this is what I done so far, hope to have it done this weekend. I used speaker cloth to cover the package tray. multiple image hosting
  11. going this route, have more pics when I get done
  12. no loud exhaust, ears cant take it. new speakers in doors, original speakers went bad. just want a decent sounding radio, no boom box. when I get car out on weekends and drink my morning coffee at gas station want a decent sounding radio. trunk is to nice to move spare tire. the two responses I got so far is what I been thinking about, just want to hear more ideas.deas.
  13. after you installed speakers in the rear deck of your fastback, what did you do with the spare tire? have 2 1/2 inches gap from top of tire to the bottom of the rear deck. speaker measures 2 1/2 inch from mounting flange to the bottom of magnet, these are 4 by 10 speakers that fit the factory hole without cutting.
  14. found this flexplate from another 351c I bought for a spare engine. if ozcoup72 is right flexplate is for c-4/fmx. found a article on another website, someone else having a similar problem. can some of you guys confirm this.
  15. old flexplate , you can see witness marks of converter nuts upload images
  16. had same sound with engine I pulled and the flexplate that was on that engine. transmission that was on that engine c-6, had issues, I replaced with new trans and converter. converter fully seated, trans bolted down before converter nuts were install, not in a bind at all. Only thing I am trying to find out is what ozcoup72 said about the mounting point of converter mount point on the flexplate.
  17. has new flexplate, new engine. has about 100 miles on it.
  18. correction it has a 164 T flexplate. I tried something, installed shim, made no difference, removed shim. when I tighten starter back down, there is play around the bolt holes and bolts, so I turned starter to one side, pulling it away from flexplate. it helped, not as noisy. took pics of flexplate, try to download and get them on here.
  19. starter makes noise when starting car, sounds like chevy starter, not shimed properly. I replaced starter when I first got car, it helped, but sound is still there. I since put new engine in car [ needed more power ] , 408c different block, new flexplate 157 T . has a C-6 and plate is in between block and trans. I have never had a ford sound like this, or had to shim a ford starter. ideas?
  20. put the mounts and brackets that came on car, back on. raised engine back up. one more problem fixed, on to the next one
  21. rubs on the bottom. I will pull shroud and see if I can notch it, where it sits at bottom in the clips
  22. got frame brackets for the 71-72 of ebay, by looking at different pics, they look like they are for a fastback/coupe. does anyone have the height of the brackets? the gap at top of shroud was a lot less with the clamshell mounts versus what is in car now
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