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mikepasquale1

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Everything posted by mikepasquale1

  1. I know.someone with am extra cluster with tach. Circuit is there but the lens is cracked on one. Pm if interested and ill get ahold of him for you.
  2. Haha im glad my photos are being used as references to help others. thats why i uploaded them
  3. Theres one in the data section of this site
  4. http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/3126781230T.html
  5. Which automatic? FMX harness is attached to the shift housing, controlling the backup lights and neutral safety switch. The c6 harness attaches directly to the transmission.
  6. CTRL+ALT+DELETE would be CLUTCH+GAS+OPEN GLOVE BOX
  7. My favorite horror series: Evil Dead late 70s Evil Dead ll (remake of 1). 1980s Army of Darkness (Evil Dead lll). 90's Bruce Campbell has lead role. Long story short, bunch of college kids goto a remote cabin in the woods and find an ancient book (book of the dead) that has the power to possess the living. Check em out.
  8. Seat belts are different between 71-2 and 73. What year do you need? Not sure if the shoulder harnesses are different or not. Correct me if im wrong.
  9. The reason they didnt bleed properly is because the bleeder needs to face upward. If he had the left on the right and right on the left the bleeders would have been facing down ward. Bearings were installed correctly
  10. I compared everything. Everything is matched. Especially the calipers
  11. Yes that hekos alot. I still have my original booster, the one thats matched to the rod. Do you think by taking measurements from the old one with the rod in place i could be able to then match that to the new booster by adjusting that rod? Get the proper length with the old one Adjust the rod to match that measurement for the new one Yes that helps alot. thabk you. I still have my original booster, the one thats matched to the rod. Do you think by taking measurements from the old one with the rod in place i could be able to then match that to the new booster by adjusting that rod? Get the proper length with the old one Adjust the rod to match that measurement for the new one. Im still just thrown on why its ok on highway but not on slower non freeway roads. Higher RPM on highway creating more vaccum maybe and pulling the rod back further?
  12. Ok. So when i replaced that booster, inserted the rod and put the master cylinder in, should i have felt any resistance at all when pushing the master cylinder into place? because i did. And if so how can i adjust and measure. I do not have the manual to follow the procedure
  13. Hmm. Makes sense. I hope thats not it cause im not good with small numbers lol. I do know what your talking about. The brake booster came off of another car and thr master cylinder is new but the rod is from my old booster. Wonder how ford matched those things up with eachother. If the rod is too long, how is it that the brakes work fine after they cool down? If after driving for about 5 to 10 min they start rubbing.
  14. Yes all lines are brand new and clear. Getting excelle.t flow uoon bleeding. This was not a conversion. the car originally had front disc brakes. I am using the original brass proportioning valve. which was recently replaced do to a blockage in the old one. the conversion kit that I was talking about that I bought a long time ago was for a 70 - 73 mustang that was meant for another project which i ultimately used fir this car.
  15. Im not sure. I do know that the rear bowel is plummed to the front discs. The small front bowl is plummed for the rear. Does that sound right or do i have it backwards?
  16. Unable to confirm since i cannot locate any info on manufacturer. Where did you get yours? Yes they are on correctly. Didnt think you could put them on wrong actually.
  17. You were right. The metal threaded tab was on incorrectly, allowing the screw to sit farther forward. after fixing it appears to have fixed the issue but at no point is there a gap between the carb lever abd the kickdown screw. It is set to activate to WOP.
  18. I cant figure it out. Everythiing is brand new; rotors, calipers, pads, lines. When i put the pads on the first time. They were extremely tight. I sanded them down and they moved freely. Test drove a few times and they get tighter and tighter. Highway driving the pedal gets kooser. Building up a ton of brake dust on the wheels. Even the wheels are way to hot to touch. sanded off more pad material, they freed up and then gave me the same issue after about 5 - 10 minutes of driving. Local mechanic told me even though the calipers are new, they are rebuilt. I bought them years ago from an ebay store that sold me a conversion kit. I never heard of nor have seen the company advertised anywhere after that. They also do not have ford stampings on them. They have that companys part numbers on them, but are identical in appearance. If i remember correctly the company stamping was "MBR". The pads came with that kit. The rotors that came with the kit did not fit the small dust shield on the spindle so i had to get new ones from advance auto. The lines all came from LMM. What do you guys think? Its weird, when the pads rub, the rotors heat up and the pedal gets really hard. When it cools it returns to normal. Last week picked girl friend up. On the way to her house, they were rubbing giving me the stiff pedal. Cooled down and drove on highway for an hour and had a good pedal the whole way to a car show. Sorry this is so lengthy. Just want to cover details.
  19. I watched a video on youtube where holly shows how to adjust the kickdown rod for their carburetors. they say make sure you pull the kickdown rod all the way back and then adjust the screw until the throttle butterfly touches the adjusting screw on the kick down rod. weather I turn the screw IN as far as it will go or as far OUT it will go, i still achive the same goal as the video tells me. should kick down be activated early or late? I'm not sure where to set the adjustment for the screw. how does kickdown work? should it happe at early throttle or later throttle? I have a 351w with FMX and holley carb. yes all of the required attachments and extensions are in place to allow the kick down to work properly. I just need to know how to adjust it, or more importantly where to set the adjustment screw. Like i said whether the adjustment screw is turned in all the way or turned out all the way, the tab on the accelerator feed on the carb still activtes the kickdown, I just need to know where to set that's screw and when the kick down should be activated. any help is appreciated .
  20. I noticed like i said. I was just in denial. Gas milage? Spent 45 bucks and burned it all up. Actually the route i took home was shorter that driving up so ya i gas milage was terrible.
  21. Lol ya really. Im running 3.50 with FMX. I knew something was up. If i tried to take it past 3000 it instantly jumped to 4000. Never settled in between. Where is that pic? I cant believe they did that to that car. Just wrong. You mean the one sitting on a truck frame right?
  22. Mike, I have to ask 1- why? 2 - How do you know it was DII ? 3 Was it shipped and how was it packaged ? Don My hood came straight from a dii warehouse. (leetsdale pa.). I traded 2 1970 mustang coupes to a guy whos cousin works for dynacorn here locally. it was packaged perfectly and brought from the warehouse to me. the reason I do not like it can be seen in the photos of my car possibly. I also know a nother guy that lives not too far for me with the exact same issue . The hood has a larger arch to it on the sides. When it was in the body shop it needed bent to fit. They could not bend it furthur without damging the hood. Its an excellent reproduction except for the fact of it being over arched on the sides. The hood arch is the only thing that bugs me about my car. It sits about 1/4 inch abive my fenders. Body shop tried to shim fenders but it wasnt happening. They bemt it was far as it could go. Turtle5353 can verify. Its definately noticeable.
  23. On Sunday Turtle and i met up in Butler Pa for a car cruise. About an hour and a half from my house. Im still working the bugs iut of my car but this one could have been bad. as I was driving on the highway to meet him I noticed that the car was acting kind of funny . around 60 mph the car seems like it wanted to shift into a higher gear. everything seemed okay when I was going slow but at that speed and the tach sitting at 3000 rpm I knew something had to be off. I had the same issue on the way home. Drove slow and took my time so i didnt hurt anything. I called the shop that rebuilt my transmission and as far as he knows he seems that was normal for a 3 speed transmission at the speed. it didn't make any sense . the first thing that came to my mind that the transmission was not kicking down properly. I watched a youtube video on how to adjust the kickdown linkage on a holley carburetor. I went to verify what the video was showing me and I found a nice surprise. The return spring that I added to the carburetor has a nut and bolt that holds a bracket in place that holds the 2 springs in place. This bolt was in the way of the kickdown engager on the carb. It was engaging the kickdown rod at about 5% throttle. the kickdown is supposed to engage at full throttle. Anytime i was accellerating it was kicking down the transmission. this is only the third time I drove the car in the first time he has ever been on a highway so i had no idea. I drove a round trip almost 100 miles and it probably never made it to 3rd gear. Oops! Surprised i didnt screw anything up. Being so, i can look back, laugh and learn.
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