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vintageman

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vintageman last won the day on April 18

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About vintageman

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1 "Q Code"

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    Georgia
  • Region
    Southeast

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    Undisclosed

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  1. So sorry for your loss, prayers going out to you and your family. Tom
  2. I bought both right and left side full panels and ended up only patching the rear foot wells. Still have the remainder of the panels if I ever need them. I did have to replace the panels under the rear seat as well as those are not part of the full side floors. Good luck, not a hard job, part of me wishes I would have just replaced the whole side when I did mine but in all actuality, I didn't need to. If you do a butt weld, it helps to have the little clamps that hold both panels in place. I got mine at Harbor Freight. Ended up not using them because I decided at the last minute to do a lap weld on top and underneath. Nothing wrong with that, just make sure you do top and bottom if you do a lap weld to block any kind of moisture. Good luck. Tom
  3. I have used SEM Black Trim with great results. I did my dash, headliner trim, door panel trim, and rear quarter panel trim with it and had good results. Tom
  4. I agree with Don C, build it yourself. I finished building mine I guess about a year ago and it started and ran great first turn of the key. I kind of wish I would have went with roller rockers but I went with a flat tappet Stage 3 cam and lifters, flat top pistons (30 over), double roller timing chain, rebuilt heads (2V) with hardened seats, standard crank (10 over if memory serves), stock intake (may change that out soon) and Holley carb. I upgraded from my 289 (I think they were 289) rear gear to a 355 set. Mine should be on the road soon, finishing up the dash install this weekend. Good luck, if you build the engine yourself, take your time and recheck everything, you will enjoy it more when done. Tom
  5. I love the look of louvers as well. I had a set on my 69 Mach 1 and my 72 Mach 1 when I was a teenager and thought they looked great on both cars. I have had a set on order from CJP but they turned out to be on backorder. They are supposed to be back in stock this weekend and hopefully mine will be shipped out. Trevynd is correct, these do not have any drilling associated with the mounting from what the online descriptions state. Tom
  6. U.S. Army, Active Duty 11/1989 - 10/2016 Pic of me in Afghanistan heading out on a patrol.
  7. Thanks Moose and Randy, I appreciate the quick responses. Going to tackle this tonight. Tom
  8. I have an excel sheet for the underdash wiring but have some conectors/wire colors that are not on the sheet. Anyone got a pic that at least shows the connector colors? If not, when I go through the digrams, I will post one for future searches. Thanks. Tom
  9. Another +1 on Chuck, I ran mine with distilled water during break in and run 50/50 after.
  10. +1 on Chuck's post. I just started mine for the first time a few months ago, very stressful up to the point of starting it. Make sure that you prime the oil pump, I built a stand for my radiator and connected that. I did all of what Chuck mentioned minus the varying the engine speed and driving it for the ring seat. I will do that when I get it on the road later this year. I had mine on an engine start stand with all mechanical gauges and ran it for about 25 minutes. Never had an issue with carb priming, I worked the throttle a couple times and turned the key over and it started first time, never stalled until I ran out of gas. Just for grins, I did start it a few days later to wake neighbors up but once again, it started immediately. Good luck with your build, once you start it, it will definitely bring a smile to your face. Tom
  11. Great pics Tony, thanks for posting these. Stay safe. Tom
  12. Yea, she was loud. Neighbors from 2 blocks over came by that evening and said I woke them up. I just laughed and told them they should have been up at that time anyway. Good luck with your build and looking forward to seeing/hearing yours as well. Tom
  13. I used an engine stand as well, can't remember the name brand but the wiring schematics were pretty bad so I did a mock drawing and got it to work correctly (drawing attached here). I did use a mechanical oil and temp gauge instead of the electrical gauge. I also mocked up a wooden stand to hold the radiator. Here is my YouTube video of the engine running on the stand. This is before I set timing and carb adjustments. My diagram to wire engine stand (ONE i USED FOR RUN STAND).pptx
  14. Pulled the dash out and then the heater box so that I can clean everything and replace the heater core. I have new switches and a harness that was repaired by Midlife going back in. So close to getting this car on the road, the suspense is killing me! Another good thing is that my cowl was in great shape when I pulled the heater box out. Made me smile a little. Tom
  15. Hopefully this is just a brainfart on my part but I wanted to ask first. I removed my automatic trans shifter (did not have linkage or a transmission at the time). I ordered a new bezel because my old one was broken. Just installed it and when placing tge shifter arm all the way forward to Park, I am about a 1/4 inch above the P. Same thing with all other positions. I checked and the old indicator piece shows the same. Any suggestions and help is appreciated to help me line them up. Thanks. Tom
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