Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


vintageman last won the day on June 13

vintageman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

About vintageman

  • Rank
    I get my mail here

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1973 Mach 1 "Q Code"


  • Location
  • Region

Personal Information

  • Sex

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks Midlife, will give it another shot this weekend. I appreciate the quick response. Tom
  2. Finally getting back to this after a long year of focusing on other things. I took the captive bolt loose and it came completely out, wasn't captive at all. The green plug is loose in the metal bracket but refuses to come completely out of the metal bracket. The green plug has a lot of play to lift up on but I can't get it away from the bracket, what am I missing? I did notice that when I pulled up on the top of the green plug, a couple small pieces of green plastic fell out so I did not really try to pry or pull real hard. The fuse block portion came loose and hangs down after the bolt came out, is the fuse block two pieces and there is a back side of the plug still connected maybe?. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for all assistance. Tom
  3. When I changed out the pressed in outlet, mine was almost completely disintegrated, I used a small flat blade screwdriver and pick to press the sides inward, it just tore it up. After trying to pull it out with needle nose pliers, it was just tearing apart. I had the block stripped of parts so I turned it upside down on my stand and kept pulling on it with the pliers until it fell out. I don't need to tell you how nerve racking that was. Good luck with removal, be careful brother. Tom
  4. Great job and welcome to the site. I really liked your video introduction, keep it up and good luck on your new project. Tom
  5. Yea, the 73 front bumper I have is heavy as hell, especially when it has the mounting brackets on it. I will be going with a chrome front bumper, already have the 71-72 front bumper mounts installed. Tom
  6. Nice job David, I have to find some time to get back to mine, it is about 90% complete now but I want to get it the other 10%, just have to find the time. Tom
  7. It kinda looks like the retainer that the pin goes through to hold the shoes into place. Looks pretty beat up if it is. I normally change all of my old hardware when I do brake shoes. Good luck, hope someone chimes in and helps figure this one out. Tom
  8. I know there has been a previous discussion on fan blades but for some reason my bookmark is not working. I have a d7ua 8600 aja fan, is this the one that tends to blow up and separate or am I good? Truth be told, I will probably end up with electric fans but plan to break the engine in on a run stand in the next week or so. Also, are there any better fans that I should look at? Thanks. Tom
  9. I used one of the excel sheets on this site and came up with 500-550 CFM for my 351C 2v, so I went with the Holley 500 CFM. The way I figure is that it should definitely be better than the 2100 I took off. Hopefully I will know in about a week, should be firing her up on a run stand by then. Good luck in your search. Tom
  10. I agree with Geoff, happy 4th of July all, have a safe and happy day. Enjoy the day with friends and family and be careful if playing with fireworks. Tom
  11. Came out looking great Galucha. I used the SEM black trim spray on my center console. I scrubbed the stainless down as it was all ratted up to begin with and now it is all flat black.
  12. I have the same vacuum port and it is also plugged right now. I saw a video on YouTube today and they said it normally goes to the Temp controlled vacuum port that can be installed in the water pump. Not sure if that is correct though. Watching this thread for further info on this. Thanks for starting this thread. Tom
  13. Thanks Jpaz, I just don't want it to be to shiny. I am thinking about trying the black trim color that I have for SEM. That looks great but I don't know how durable it will be on a steering wheel. I did try the krylon black an it was too shiny, right now, I think it was satin, but honestly can't remember. I don't think it was matte black though. May try the matte black. Tom
  14. I actually started this a couple months ago and got off track because of other projects but my original steering wheel was broken at the 12:00, 3, 6 and 9:00 positions all the way around. I used a dremel tool to clean the cracks up some and got some epoxy that I could mold like clay and filled the cracks. A couple days later, I sanded it real good and primed it, then re-sanded it a few times until I was happy that the crack were filled and level. Primed it with rattle can primer and now need to paint black. Does anyone know of a good match rattle can that would not be too shiny or too dull? Thanks. Tom

About Us

7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

Site Navigation

7173 Wiki


Site Info

July 2010

Webfinity Design

Latrobe, PA

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help customize your user experience here on 7173Mustangs.com. You can adjust your cookie settings to your preferences if you like, otherwise we'll assume that you're okay to continue.