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vintageman

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vintageman last won the day on April 18

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About vintageman

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  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1 "Q Code"

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    Georgia
  • Region
    Southeast

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    Undisclosed

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  1. Hopefully this is just a brainfart on my part but I wanted to ask first. I removed my automatic trans shifter (did not have linkage or a transmission at the time). I ordered a new bezel because my old one was broken. Just installed it and when placing tge shifter arm all the way forward to Park, I am about a 1/4 inch above the P. Same thing with all other positions. I checked and the old indicator piece shows the same. Any suggestions and help is appreciated to help me line them up. Thanks. Tom
  2. I have not had a chance to drill the holes yet but kinda planned to put paint on the crank gear and put the panel in place to try to get a paint "witness mark". I have an old panel that I can try it out on first, it's in really poor shape so not too concerned with that one if I mess up. It will probably be a couple weeks before I can get to it though, I hurt my back again and am trying to take a little break. Good luck on your install, if I get it figured out before you do, I will try to post some measurements of the hole placement. Tom
  3. Congratulations on the birth of you son and everyone being healthy. Spend your time with your family and enjoy it, it goes by fast. I just had about an hour and half talking with my son (the longest time in a long time and he is 25) so enjoy it. Once again, congratulations. Tom
  4. I wanted to pass on my experience with removing my Mach 1 rear windshield tonight. The total process for removal took about 20-25 minutes from start to having the windshield set to the side on the ground. I removed the trim with a flat tip screwdriver being careful to pop the trim from the retainers without bending (this was after removing the 5 or 6 Philips head screws for the lower trim piece. After that, knowing that I had to buy a new rubber seal to go around the glass, I just removed the outer part of the rubber seal that sat on top of the glass since it was original and very brittle. After that I just lifted the window out since it was not held by any adhesive. Then I removed the remained of the seal that was retained with the adhesive. A few minutes with a heat gun to loosen and remove the remaining adhesive with a scraper and that was it. Using this method, there was no prying on the glass to get it loose or anything. I was very pleased to see that there was now issues or rust holes that had to be attended to and will be sanding down and rust proofing tomorrow. To tell the truth, this may be listed somewhere already but my earlier searches did not find it. It was a very easy process and I wanted to pass this on to the rest of the group here. Tom
  5. Thanks for all of the advice, I will also get some new bushings to help compensate for the deflection. @Big Red Mach 1, your car looks great as is. Thanks. Tom
  6. Thanks Fabrice and Geoff, I appreciate both responses. Will look at both the shackles and the Eaton leaf springs for research. Tom
  7. I just installed te KYB rear shocks, engine was installed a couple months ago. I figured that the front spings would drop more but have not. I have a 351C and FMX transmisission installed and would like to have a taller stance in the rear end. I am good with ordering new leaf springs but would rather not have to change spings in front. Any and all thoughts appreciated. Thanks. Tom
  8. Did the quarter window roll-down change today. I got lucky on the drivers side window and it aligned pretty quick, the passenger window took about 20 minutes to get the window alignment correct. Really like this mod, now I just have to drill the window handle holes in my interior quarter panels. Tom
  9. Best wishes for you and your family brother. You and your family are in my prayers. Tom
  10. I installed them a few months ago. I bought them from Don at Ohio Mustang. Wasn't hard at all. I used a 3 inch hole saw on some wood I had laying around. Wrapped some tape around the wood so it would fit snug in the hole on the underside of the hood. Using the hole saw ensured that my center hole was in the proper place. after I inserted the wood with the tape on it in the hole, the center hole for the drill marked where to drill the pilot hole. After that, I used my hole saw again and drilled the 3 inch hole for the twist locks. When I installed the inside brackets, I did have to put a washer or two behind the bracket so that everything lined up correctly. Adjusted the nut on the twist lock so that I did not get any "oil canning" when twist lock was engaged and they fit correctly. Yes, it was a pucker factor drilling into my new unpainted hood but I suspect it would be even worse drilling into a painted hood. I say go for it, they make the hood look great even if they are more cosmetic than preventive. Good luck. Tom
  11. Thanks Don, I appreciate the info, none of my harness is connected at this time, just starting the install this weekend. Tom
  12. So sorry for your loss. You and your family will be in our prayers. Tom
  13. Looking at alternator wiring pics now that I have the right harness, I see something in a diagram that I don't recognize. Anyone know what this is and where I can get one? I have a 1973 with center ammeter gauge. Thanks. Tom
  14. After a little more moving the trans jack and fine tuning, everything lined up and the trans is now installed. Thanks everyone for your advice and assistance on this. Tom
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