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Everything posted by vintageman

  1. Hopefully this is just a brainfart on my part but I wanted to ask first. I removed my automatic trans shifter (did not have linkage or a transmission at the time). I ordered a new bezel because my old one was broken. Just installed it and when placing tge shifter arm all the way forward to Park, I am about a 1/4 inch above the P. Same thing with all other positions. I checked and the old indicator piece shows the same. Any suggestions and help is appreciated to help me line them up. Thanks. Tom
  2. I have not had a chance to drill the holes yet but kinda planned to put paint on the crank gear and put the panel in place to try to get a paint "witness mark". I have an old panel that I can try it out on first, it's in really poor shape so not too concerned with that one if I mess up. It will probably be a couple weeks before I can get to it though, I hurt my back again and am trying to take a little break. Good luck on your install, if I get it figured out before you do, I will try to post some measurements of the hole placement. Tom
  3. Congratulations on the birth of you son and everyone being healthy. Spend your time with your family and enjoy it, it goes by fast. I just had about an hour and half talking with my son (the longest time in a long time and he is 25) so enjoy it. Once again, congratulations. Tom
  4. I wanted to pass on my experience with removing my Mach 1 rear windshield tonight. The total process for removal took about 20-25 minutes from start to having the windshield set to the side on the ground. I removed the trim with a flat tip screwdriver being careful to pop the trim from the retainers without bending (this was after removing the 5 or 6 Philips head screws for the lower trim piece. After that, knowing that I had to buy a new rubber seal to go around the glass, I just removed the outer part of the rubber seal that sat on top of the glass since it was original and very brittle. After that I just lifted the window out since it was not held by any adhesive. Then I removed the remained of the seal that was retained with the adhesive. A few minutes with a heat gun to loosen and remove the remaining adhesive with a scraper and that was it. Using this method, there was no prying on the glass to get it loose or anything. I was very pleased to see that there was now issues or rust holes that had to be attended to and will be sanding down and rust proofing tomorrow. To tell the truth, this may be listed somewhere already but my earlier searches did not find it. It was a very easy process and I wanted to pass this on to the rest of the group here. Tom
  5. Thanks for all of the advice, I will also get some new bushings to help compensate for the deflection. @Big Red Mach 1, your car looks great as is. Thanks. Tom
  6. Thanks Fabrice and Geoff, I appreciate both responses. Will look at both the shackles and the Eaton leaf springs for research. Tom
  7. I just installed te KYB rear shocks, engine was installed a couple months ago. I figured that the front spings would drop more but have not. I have a 351C and FMX transmisission installed and would like to have a taller stance in the rear end. I am good with ordering new leaf springs but would rather not have to change spings in front. Any and all thoughts appreciated. Thanks. Tom
  8. Did the quarter window roll-down change today. I got lucky on the drivers side window and it aligned pretty quick, the passenger window took about 20 minutes to get the window alignment correct. Really like this mod, now I just have to drill the window handle holes in my interior quarter panels. Tom
  9. Best wishes for you and your family brother. You and your family are in my prayers. Tom
  10. I installed them a few months ago. I bought them from Don at Ohio Mustang. Wasn't hard at all. I used a 3 inch hole saw on some wood I had laying around. Wrapped some tape around the wood so it would fit snug in the hole on the underside of the hood. Using the hole saw ensured that my center hole was in the proper place. after I inserted the wood with the tape on it in the hole, the center hole for the drill marked where to drill the pilot hole. After that, I used my hole saw again and drilled the 3 inch hole for the twist locks. When I installed the inside brackets, I did have to put a washer or two behind the bracket so that everything lined up correctly. Adjusted the nut on the twist lock so that I did not get any "oil canning" when twist lock was engaged and they fit correctly. Yes, it was a pucker factor drilling into my new unpainted hood but I suspect it would be even worse drilling into a painted hood. I say go for it, they make the hood look great even if they are more cosmetic than preventive. Good luck. Tom
  11. Thanks Don, I appreciate the info, none of my harness is connected at this time, just starting the install this weekend. Tom
  12. So sorry for your loss. You and your family will be in our prayers. Tom
  13. Looking at alternator wiring pics now that I have the right harness, I see something in a diagram that I don't recognize. Anyone know what this is and where I can get one? I have a 1973 with center ammeter gauge. Thanks. Tom
  14. After a little more moving the trans jack and fine tuning, everything lined up and the trans is now installed. Thanks everyone for your advice and assistance on this. Tom
  15. Thanks everyone for the responses, got it mounted this morning with good converter spacing. Then when turning the converter to align the flexplate and converter, found out that the bolt holes do not line up. The holes in the converter are about 1/16 low or a little more that will not let me get the converter bolts in properly. I spun the converter around to see if any of the holes would align and none do. Nothing is binding, I can reach in through the starter area of the bellhousing and turn the converter. I only have 2 bolts in the bellhousing right now, I wanted to check for binding first, do you think I should put all the bellhousing bolts in first since it's not binding and see if that helps? I have the stock flexplate installed btw. I remember a few posts but can't find them now that someone said they jacked the front of the engine up a little to help with alignment of the converter. All advice is appreciated, thanks. Tom
  16. Good evening everyone, I have a question about my new Hughes 38-25 stall converter from Summit and FMX installation. I installed the converter into the trans and felt 2 good clicks, could not really tell if there was a 3rd or not. With the converter installed in the trans, I put a straight edge across the bellhousing, I get about 1/8 inch between the straight edge and the center snout of the converter and about 1 inch from the straight edge to the bolt holes on the mounting tabs. Does this sound like it is fully installed and I have enough clearance? Also, it looks like the bolts that they provided for the install are only about 1/2 inch long, the mounting tabs seem to be further back than that I think I will need longer bolts, any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance. Tom
  17. My prayers are with you and your family. Tom
  18. Thanks for the suggestion David, something to definitely think about adding. Tom
  19. Thank you brother, I appreciate it. That picture clears it up now. Tom
  20. I am about to install my standard door panels and armrests and came across this part on the NPD site. It is called an armrest clip but can't find the location for it to be installed? Anyone have any pics or know where this clip goes? Thanks. Tom
  21. Looks and sounds great, thanks for sharing. It gives me more motivation on mine. Tom
  22. Does anyone have an opinion on the best front and rear u-joints. I have an FMX auto trans and 3.55 gears if that matters. Installing the trans tomorrow and hopefully the driveshaft as well. Thanks in advance. Tom
  23. Thanks so much brother, I appreciate the pic and the clarification on this one. I do have the pre-bent ones but to be honest, I installed them on my transmission since it's still on the bench and looked at the front end of the tubes and they both looked like they could go to either top of bottom on the radiator. I had been drinking but I don't think that was the issue, classic lines has not really impressed me with their pre-bent lines lately. Thanks again. Tom
  24. Thanks Don, I appreciate the quick response. I will make sure that I tape the extra wire at the alternator up real good. Appreciate the link to the noise suppressor as well. Tom
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