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vintageman

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Everything posted by vintageman

  1. Best wishes for you and your family brother. You and your family are in my prayers. Tom
  2. I installed them a few months ago. I bought them from Don at Ohio Mustang. Wasn't hard at all. I used a 3 inch hole saw on some wood I had laying around. Wrapped some tape around the wood so it would fit snug in the hole on the underside of the hood. Using the hole saw ensured that my center hole was in the proper place. after I inserted the wood with the tape on it in the hole, the center hole for the drill marked where to drill the pilot hole. After that, I used my hole saw again and drilled the 3 inch hole for the twist locks. When I installed the inside brackets, I did have to put a washe
  3. Thanks Don, I appreciate the info, none of my harness is connected at this time, just starting the install this weekend. Tom
  4. So sorry for your loss. You and your family will be in our prayers. Tom
  5. Looking at alternator wiring pics now that I have the right harness, I see something in a diagram that I don't recognize. Anyone know what this is and where I can get one? I have a 1973 with center ammeter gauge. Thanks. Tom
  6. After a little more moving the trans jack and fine tuning, everything lined up and the trans is now installed. Thanks everyone for your advice and assistance on this. Tom
  7. Thanks everyone for the responses, got it mounted this morning with good converter spacing. Then when turning the converter to align the flexplate and converter, found out that the bolt holes do not line up. The holes in the converter are about 1/16 low or a little more that will not let me get the converter bolts in properly. I spun the converter around to see if any of the holes would align and none do. Nothing is binding, I can reach in through the starter area of the bellhousing and turn the converter. I only have 2 bolts in the bellhousing right now, I wanted to check for binding fi
  8. Good evening everyone, I have a question about my new Hughes 38-25 stall converter from Summit and FMX installation. I installed the converter into the trans and felt 2 good clicks, could not really tell if there was a 3rd or not. With the converter installed in the trans, I put a straight edge across the bellhousing, I get about 1/8 inch between the straight edge and the center snout of the converter and about 1 inch from the straight edge to the bolt holes on the mounting tabs. Does this sound like it is fully installed and I have enough clearance? Also, it looks like the bolts that th
  9. My prayers are with you and your family. Tom
  10. Thanks for the suggestion David, something to definitely think about adding. Tom
  11. Thank you brother, I appreciate it. That picture clears it up now. Tom
  12. I am about to install my standard door panels and armrests and came across this part on the NPD site. It is called an armrest clip but can't find the location for it to be installed? Anyone have any pics or know where this clip goes? Thanks. Tom
  13. Looks and sounds great, thanks for sharing. It gives me more motivation on mine. Tom
  14. Does anyone have an opinion on the best front and rear u-joints. I have an FMX auto trans and 3.55 gears if that matters. Installing the trans tomorrow and hopefully the driveshaft as well. Thanks in advance. Tom
  15. Thanks so much brother, I appreciate the pic and the clarification on this one. I do have the pre-bent ones but to be honest, I installed them on my transmission since it's still on the bench and looked at the front end of the tubes and they both looked like they could go to either top of bottom on the radiator. I had been drinking but I don't think that was the issue, classic lines has not really impressed me with their pre-bent lines lately. Thanks again. Tom
  16. Thanks Don, I appreciate the quick response. I will make sure that I tape the extra wire at the alternator up real good. Appreciate the link to the noise suppressor as well. Tom
  17. I installed my engine last weekend and am starting on installing the wiring harness. The alternator I have now is a 40 amp autolite. The harness has 3 wires at the alternator side and 3 wires plus the plug to the voltage regulator. From diagrams and pics on this site, because I have an guages and a tach, I think only 2 wires should be connected to the alternator and the STA should be unplugged. Is this correct? Also, at the other end, pics show a noise reduction capacitor, does anyone have a good source for these? Thanks in advance? Tom
  18. As I am nearing the installation of my FMX trans, I have new lines to install as well. Does anyone have a pic or two for the correct routing of the lines and which line goes toward the top of the radiator and location on the transmission? This car was missing everything when I got it, so all advice is really appreciated. BTW, if needed, it is a 1973 (72 engine), 351C with the stock type radiator. Thanks in advance. Tom
  19. Installed my engine today, from what I was told by the previous owner, it hasn't had an engine installed well over 15 years or so. Went right in, took about 20 minutes from hoist connection to tightening the motor mount bolts. Felt great, now on to the transmission refresh. Tom
  20. You are correct in your thoughts David. I am not sure why they are called doors, I would probably call them bezels. I did find them at Ohio Mustangs with Don and they are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. Thanks for you input David, always appreciated. Tom
  21. Found my answer, yes, they are different. Will be ordering a set soon. Tom
  22. For my 73 grill there were doors behind the headlight, are there 71-72 headlight doors? I recently changed my grill from a 73 to a 71-72. Thanks in advance. Tom
  23. Looks great. I did the same thing to my original steering wheel last year and it came out looking great. I can't remember what type of epoxy I used but I did hit it with a dremel first to give the epoxy something to bite on. Worked out well. Tom
  24. Great replies to this thread, something to definitely think about. I like the idea of the float. Tom
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