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Everything posted by vintageman

  1. I would also get a good degree wheel and a dial indicator with magnetic stand. Also, not a real tool but a great help is to get some 5/16 rods and cut a few lengths in about 6 inch or so increments so they can be used as guides when reinstalling your intake manifold. A couple good torque wrenches go a long way. I used a 1 ton engine stand and never worried about stability rotating the engine, the 1000lbs one I have did not feel as stable. Take a lot of pictures and bag and tag all of the old parts. Good luck, it's not that hard of a job, take your time and be patient. Tom
  2. Very nice, great job. Thanks for sharing. Tom
  3. I have the 71-72 brackets on mine, so they will fit. When I got my 73 Mach 1, someone had already changed the bumper out to the 71-72 style. Because of this, I also have 71-72 fenders because the bumper sets at a different location. If you are changing over, then you will probably need new fenders as well. Hopefully someone with more experience on the swap will chime in for your other questions. Good luck. Tom
  4. Very nice. Great pics and car you have there. Tom
  5. Started my freshly rebuilt 351 Cleveland 2V on an engine run stand to break the cam in today. Started first turn over and never stalled. Ran it at about 2500 RPMs for 30 minutes, temp gauge was right around 180ish, Oil Pressure started around 80 and dropped down to about 70 when it got warmed up. Next up is to dial in the timing and carb for best performance. Here is a short 1 minute video I posted to YouTube earlier. Tom https://youtu.be/C-2toibQvPM
  6. Very nice looking car there, I am sure you will enjoy it. Congratulations. Tom
  7. Did you remove the metal part of the top dash that has the speaker grill holes in it (also has the VIN plate). Once that is removed, the dash pad attaches to that part and is then reinstalled and the 5 or so screws go in the front to secure it to the dash itself. Pulling out the metal part can be a pain because of the metal clips toward the windshield are so tight but a quick pull from the drivers side then another from the passenger side and the whole thing comes out. Your dash pad should have some studs in it that will mate with the holes on the metal part of the top dash and then there are
  8. Sorry to hear that, I hope everything works out. Good luck.
  9. I have the black TMI standard upholstery and it came out great in my opinion. Fit and looks good. Tom
  10. Thanks again MIdlife, I checked the bolt and it is not broken. What you describe for separating the plugs is basically what I have been doing so far but will continue to try. After almost 50 years of being connected, these things are really stuck. I can move the entire plug assembly back and forth, up and down in the metal plate, but have not been able to get any separation between the male and female plug. I will keep at it though, thanks. Tom
  11. Thanks Midlife, as far as the bolt coming out, I put a socket on it and it came loose right away. It was not stuck or super tight at all. I checked per one of your previous posts about the clip that holds the bolt in and like you said, it was missing. I have not checked the end of the bolt to see if it was broken, that would explain a lot. If it is broken, I guess I will have to wait to remove it until I remove the dash later this summer. Thanks, I appreciate the assistance. Tom
  12. Here are a couple pics of what I can see. I do think that the tabs are missing because I can't see or feel any types of locking tabs and the plug still refuses to separate. There is a lot of play where I can pull the plug through the metal plate and see almost the whole assembly. I have never had this much problem separating a simple plug like this. Thanks for any suggestions. Tom
  13. OK, I am starting to feel like a dumbass, for some reason I still cannot get this plug separated so I can remove the harness. I see that David posted pics of the green plug separated, but I do not see the Tabs to press to separate them. Anyone got a close up pic of the tabs. Thanks and end the end, I know that it is probably going to be so simple and really make me feed stupid. I appreciate the assistance as always. Tom
  14. Thanks Midlife, will give it another shot this weekend. I appreciate the quick response. Tom
  15. Finally getting back to this after a long year of focusing on other things. I took the captive bolt loose and it came completely out, wasn't captive at all. The green plug is loose in the metal bracket but refuses to come completely out of the metal bracket. The green plug has a lot of play to lift up on but I can't get it away from the bracket, what am I missing? I did notice that when I pulled up on the top of the green plug, a couple small pieces of green plastic fell out so I did not really try to pry or pull real hard. The fuse block portion came loose and hangs down after the bolt came o
  16. When I changed out the pressed in outlet, mine was almost completely disintegrated, I used a small flat blade screwdriver and pick to press the sides inward, it just tore it up. After trying to pull it out with needle nose pliers, it was just tearing apart. I had the block stripped of parts so I turned it upside down on my stand and kept pulling on it with the pliers until it fell out. I don't need to tell you how nerve racking that was. Good luck with removal, be careful brother. Tom
  17. Great job and welcome to the site. I really liked your video introduction, keep it up and good luck on your new project. Tom
  18. Yea, the 73 front bumper I have is heavy as hell, especially when it has the mounting brackets on it. I will be going with a chrome front bumper, already have the 71-72 front bumper mounts installed. Tom
  19. Nice job David, I have to find some time to get back to mine, it is about 90% complete now but I want to get it the other 10%, just have to find the time. Tom
  20. It kinda looks like the retainer that the pin goes through to hold the shoes into place. Looks pretty beat up if it is. I normally change all of my old hardware when I do brake shoes. Good luck, hope someone chimes in and helps figure this one out. Tom
  21. I know there has been a previous discussion on fan blades but for some reason my bookmark is not working. I have a d7ua 8600 aja fan, is this the one that tends to blow up and separate or am I good? Truth be told, I will probably end up with electric fans but plan to break the engine in on a run stand in the next week or so. Also, are there any better fans that I should look at? Thanks. Tom
  22. I used one of the excel sheets on this site and came up with 500-550 CFM for my 351C 2v, so I went with the Holley 500 CFM. The way I figure is that it should definitely be better than the 2100 I took off. Hopefully I will know in about a week, should be firing her up on a run stand by then. Good luck in your search. Tom
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