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vintageman

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Everything posted by vintageman

  1. Thanks Randy, I will check that tomorrow night when I get off of work, tied up tonight so now work on the Mustang. More to follow. Tom
  2. Thanks Randy, your notes are correct, I do have a 73 harness. When you did the work on my headlight harness, I had a 73 grill but later decided that I wanted to change the grill to a 71-72 style. I have the 1157A bulbs in the grill now, are they the correct bulbs? Thanks for your assistance on this. Tom
  3. I honestly have been trying to avoid posting to this thread but eventually decided to throw my two cents in. Before I begin, if I hurt some feelings or seem to have a different point of view, they are, after all, my point of view and at my age, I am going to stay with my point of view. I think the electric cars can be a good thing but are being somewhat forced upon us. Bear in mind, I would love to have one of the cars you see on the futuristic movies zipping down the highway and so forth but I don't want and will not be told that is my only option for the future in the United States. I spent 27 years of my life, fought in multiple combat zones, and supported my government leaders without question during that time and never voiced my opinions because it was detrimental to my leaders. I retired from the military in 2016 and have since found that my normal 23% monthly taxes paid on a normal paycheck have since increased on my military retirement is almost 35% because I owe almost $8,000 each year when I file my taxes and it is not on due to my normal day to day job, it is just on my military retirement. After I retired (close to the end of the year 2016) and became 100% disabled due to military service, I found that I had to get another full time job just to pay these extensive taxes on my military retirement (both federal and state) to survive. Now with these electric car pushes, retirees and those who are not able to afford better luxuries in life will be facing even more hardships. I won't even get into the fact that I have been paying into social security since I was 12 years old and who knows if it will be available when I get to that age to collect it. My daughter and her husband do not have employment that provides medical insurance and when they applied for the "affordable care act" insurance, they were told, that they do not make enough to qualify for the lower insurance payments. Really???? So guess who is paying for their insurance? I am sick of where my country has gone in the last 15 years or so and have no idea what the future holds for us older retirees. This is the land of the free and home of the brave and we should have the right to decide if we are going to drive gas or electric cars and for what ever we choose, there should be an affordable option and not one that everyone needs to have an electrician come by their house and install a 240v outlet, upgrade their existing circuit breaker and electrical system and not have their electric bill double each month. Maybe I am well off base but I don't think so and if you read through this rant, I appreciate it and for those that disagree with me, you have the right to your opinion because I am an adult and not a 12 year old kid. Your opinions are your opinions and mine are mine. I really hope I didn't hurt feelings but in the end, a person's personal opinion is the one that counts, not someone on the internet. I do hope that the future gets more advanced and is more evenly proportioned all. Sorry for the rant. Tom
  4. Ok, so I have a 73 Mach 1, engine harness, dash harness, and rear harness reconditioned and checked by Midlife, so I am good there. I have recently installed all of the harnesses, pulled dash and reinstalled harness, replaced the headlight switch, ignition switch, turn signal switch. I also have the updated cluster harness from Midlife that hardwires the lights. My problem is this, with headlight switch turned off, my turn signals work in the rear and on the on the front grill (BTW, I have a 71-72 grill with the amber lights). When I switch my headlights on, I get turn signals in the rear but not on the front grill. The 4 way hazard flashers are the same, front and back work with headlights off and just the rear when the headlights are on. I am thinking the new headlight switch may be the problem. I did purchase it at cjpony.com and I have had issues with their products before. What are your thoughts, any help is appreciated. Tom
  5. So, after I removed the driveshaft from the rear and pushed it all the way in then reconnected the driveshaft, I have about 1inch of play. I think I am good at the moment and hopefully will be able to drive this thing in the near future for final determination. Just in case, does anyone have a reputable shop name for lengthening drive shafts in Georgia? Thanks. Tom
  6. Thanks guys, I planned to get this checked tonight but won't be able until Friday night. More to follow. Tom
  7. Thanks guys for the replies, I will check again and follow back up here with the results. Tom
  8. I have a 351C with FMX transmission, 8 inch 3.55 gears in the rear end. I pulled this transmission and driveshaft that had a 351C and 8 inch rear end as well from a 72 Mustang Coupe and it is now in in a 73 Mach 1 Fastback. I installed the drive shaft tonight and it is sitting front and rear on car dollies. I do have extended shackles on the rear (3 hole type, using the middle hole. Can't remember the amount of lift the 2nd hole gives to raising the rear end). With the driveshaft fully installed, I have about 1 1/2 inch of space that if the rear of the driveshaft were disconnected, I could probably move it all the way forward 1 1/2 inches although I did not check that. The drive shaft is engaging because I put the trans in Park and the driveshaft would only rotate a little bit, in Neutral, it would rotate. My question is: is this too much space for travel or am I good to go. I have read that you need about 3/4 of an inch for travel but I have double that. Thanks for any response and assistance. Tom
  9. I thought about aftermarket heads when I rebuilt my engine but the shop that cleaned everything suggested a head rebuild with new springs, better valves, viton valve seals, and hardened seats. I walked away with the total head rebuild for under $400 which I think is considerably lower than the cost of new heads. Good luck on you decision and build. Tom
  10. So, I have been troubleshooting a possible battery problem with my 73. I am not trying to start it, just verify that I have things connected properly. I rebuilt the engine and have run it on a stand so I know that is good, sent the entire harness to Midlife, so I know that is good. I had to buy the engine gauge harness because my car did not have one when I bought it and I just changed out the the ignition switch and lock cylinder. I simply wanted to hear it crank but all it would do was an initial crank, and nothing after that. The battery tested with good under load and had 12.53 volts. Did a multimeter check from battery post to post and had 12.53 volts but from cable to cable intermediate 2-3 volts. Checked all of my grounds and recleaned them to make sure they were good. Verified cable to cable, still intermediate with only 2-3 volts. Positive cable to ground had 12 volts. Damn, need to recheck ground again! Went from ground cable to end of ground cable, I had continuity, but no continuity from battery clamp to ground. I have the type of battery clamp that separates via two bolts and connect the battery cable between. Took that apart, wire brushed the excessive paint off that the manufacturer put between the two pieces and now I have continuity to ground, 12 volts from the cable test and the engine cranks as it should. Great time troubleshooting and very productive. I hope this helps someone, don't trust new parts and new battery clamps. Tom
  11. I just took a re-look at my front disc brakes and they are the Wilwood brand, they went on very easy and instructions were great. For the booster, I bought the combo kit with the master cylinder, no surprises there as well, quality looked great and the instructions were well laid out and informative. My kit had the "stud" for moving the pivot point if reusing the non-power brake pedal. Tom
  12. Honestly I can't remember the brand of foam but I got TMI upholstery, so the foam may have been by them as well. Sorry I can't be more specific. Tom
  13. I had my front and rear seat foam changed when I did my seats last year. I picked up a kit from Mustangs Unlimited before they closed down. The pieces were memory foam and fit and feel great. Tom
  14. When I installed my front disc brake kit and brake booster, I used the original non-power brake pedal and drilled a hole at the 2 inch mark below and used a stud that came with the kit. Drilling the hole was not that hard, just use good drill bits. You may be able to find the new stud online at Leeds or another reputable parts store. Good luck. Tom
  15. I ordered my rear drum spring kit from a local Oreillys and it had the correct springs. I did have to order things like the adjustment mechanism separately but overall, It was pretty accurate. I hope you get it figured out, good luck. Tom
  16. Pulled the lock cylinder out and sprayed some more WD-40 on it and the gear and rod and it does spring back a little better. I think working it a little more will definitely help. Tom
  17. Installed my new ebrake cable, what a pain that was. I was beginning to think my passenger side cable (the long one) was too short. I needed about 2-3 inches to make it reach. After pulling on the drivers side cable, I got a little slack to come out, then I pulled the drivers side out of the bracket on the rail mount where both cables meet, joined the two cables at the mount that holds the end ball retainers and then just began pulling on the cable rearward until it ended up slipping into the mounted bracket. Cable is nice and tight now with no slack. This will get tested for proper operation when I get it on the road hopefully soon. New cable installation took about an hour to remove the old and install the new one. Tom
  18. I had burlap and it was replaced as well when my seats were restored. Tom
  19. Upload the video to YouTube and then add the link to your post here. That is the easiest way. Good luck. Tom
  20. Thanks for the reply Don, no, I didn't think to lube the cylinder when it was out. I am pretty sure that the wiring is not close to the rod and it is not hanging up, it looks like it moves freely but I will take another look at it to make sure it is not hanging up anywhere. More to follow when I look at it tomorrow night. Thanks. Tom
  21. I changed out both of these recently because of a "while I am at it" syndrome that I always go through and the fact that the ignition lock cylinder would not go counter-clockwise to the accessory position. Quick question, I have performed a search here and found the procedures for correctly installing the ignition switch on the lower column and installing the a new lock cylinder. The new lock cylinder now goes into the counter clockwise accessory position, lock, forward accessory, and run position as it should. The key only removes in the lock position. My question is: When I go to crank the car, if I barely turn the key position to start position and release it, it will spring back to the run position as it should but if I turn the key a little further, it doesn't spring back like it should. I have sprayed some WD-40 and it feels a little better, is this just a "it needs to be worked" more thing or is a different type of lube recommended or further adjustment required? The ignition lock cylinder came from a local O'Reilly's Auto Parts store. Thanks for any and all advice. Tom
  22. This is right on time as I am working on my 73 ignition right now. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I will be starting my own thread on ignition switch/lock cylinder after this. Thanks again. Tom
  23. Thanks Tony, your car looks great, I may go with 18 instead. @Don C thanks for the links, I will check them out. Tom
  24. I picked up a set of American Racing AR883 Maverick Anthracite Machined Wheels (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/are-88377515440#overview) that are 17x7.5 that have 5.820 backspacing. For the front, I need wheel spacers since I added disk brakes. I would like to get a set of rims (17 inch) that do not require spacers. Anyone know what backspacing I would need for 17 inch rims in the front and rear to avoid using spacers? Also, if anyone knows a good tire size to fill the wheel house space without having to modify anything would be great. Thanks. Tom
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