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vintageman

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Everything posted by vintageman

  1. I agree with Don C, build it yourself. I finished building mine I guess about a year ago and it started and ran great first turn of the key. I kind of wish I would have went with roller rockers but I went with a flat tappet Stage 3 cam and lifters, flat top pistons (30 over), double roller timing chain, rebuilt heads (2V) with hardened seats, standard crank (10 over if memory serves), stock intake (may change that out soon) and Holley carb. I upgraded from my 289 (I think they were 289) rear gear to a 355 set. Mine should be on the road soon, finishing up the dash install this weekend. Good luck, if you build the engine yourself, take your time and recheck everything, you will enjoy it more when done. Tom
  2. I love the look of louvers as well. I had a set on my 69 Mach 1 and my 72 Mach 1 when I was a teenager and thought they looked great on both cars. I have had a set on order from CJP but they turned out to be on backorder. They are supposed to be back in stock this weekend and hopefully mine will be shipped out. Trevynd is correct, these do not have any drilling associated with the mounting from what the online descriptions state. Tom
  3. U.S. Army, Active Duty 11/1989 - 10/2016 Pic of me in Afghanistan heading out on a patrol.
  4. Thanks Moose and Randy, I appreciate the quick responses. Going to tackle this tonight. Tom
  5. I have an excel sheet for the underdash wiring but have some conectors/wire colors that are not on the sheet. Anyone got a pic that at least shows the connector colors? If not, when I go through the digrams, I will post one for future searches. Thanks. Tom
  6. Another +1 on Chuck, I ran mine with distilled water during break in and run 50/50 after.
  7. +1 on Chuck's post. I just started mine for the first time a few months ago, very stressful up to the point of starting it. Make sure that you prime the oil pump, I built a stand for my radiator and connected that. I did all of what Chuck mentioned minus the varying the engine speed and driving it for the ring seat. I will do that when I get it on the road later this year. I had mine on an engine start stand with all mechanical gauges and ran it for about 25 minutes. Never had an issue with carb priming, I worked the throttle a couple times and turned the key over and it started first time, never stalled until I ran out of gas. Just for grins, I did start it a few days later to wake neighbors up but once again, it started immediately. Good luck with your build, once you start it, it will definitely bring a smile to your face. Tom
  8. Great pics Tony, thanks for posting these. Stay safe. Tom
  9. Yea, she was loud. Neighbors from 2 blocks over came by that evening and said I woke them up. I just laughed and told them they should have been up at that time anyway. Good luck with your build and looking forward to seeing/hearing yours as well. Tom
  10. I used an engine stand as well, can't remember the name brand but the wiring schematics were pretty bad so I did a mock drawing and got it to work correctly (drawing attached here). I did use a mechanical oil and temp gauge instead of the electrical gauge. I also mocked up a wooden stand to hold the radiator. Here is my YouTube video of the engine running on the stand. This is before I set timing and carb adjustments. My diagram to wire engine stand (ONE i USED FOR RUN STAND).pptx
  11. Pulled the dash out and then the heater box so that I can clean everything and replace the heater core. I have new switches and a harness that was repaired by Midlife going back in. So close to getting this car on the road, the suspense is killing me! Another good thing is that my cowl was in great shape when I pulled the heater box out. Made me smile a little. Tom
  12. Hopefully this is just a brainfart on my part but I wanted to ask first. I removed my automatic trans shifter (did not have linkage or a transmission at the time). I ordered a new bezel because my old one was broken. Just installed it and when placing tge shifter arm all the way forward to Park, I am about a 1/4 inch above the P. Same thing with all other positions. I checked and the old indicator piece shows the same. Any suggestions and help is appreciated to help me line them up. Thanks. Tom
  13. I have not had a chance to drill the holes yet but kinda planned to put paint on the crank gear and put the panel in place to try to get a paint "witness mark". I have an old panel that I can try it out on first, it's in really poor shape so not too concerned with that one if I mess up. It will probably be a couple weeks before I can get to it though, I hurt my back again and am trying to take a little break. Good luck on your install, if I get it figured out before you do, I will try to post some measurements of the hole placement. Tom
  14. Congratulations on the birth of you son and everyone being healthy. Spend your time with your family and enjoy it, it goes by fast. I just had about an hour and half talking with my son (the longest time in a long time and he is 25) so enjoy it. Once again, congratulations. Tom
  15. I wanted to pass on my experience with removing my Mach 1 rear windshield tonight. The total process for removal took about 20-25 minutes from start to having the windshield set to the side on the ground. I removed the trim with a flat tip screwdriver being careful to pop the trim from the retainers without bending (this was after removing the 5 or 6 Philips head screws for the lower trim piece. After that, knowing that I had to buy a new rubber seal to go around the glass, I just removed the outer part of the rubber seal that sat on top of the glass since it was original and very brittle. After that I just lifted the window out since it was not held by any adhesive. Then I removed the remained of the seal that was retained with the adhesive. A few minutes with a heat gun to loosen and remove the remaining adhesive with a scraper and that was it. Using this method, there was no prying on the glass to get it loose or anything. I was very pleased to see that there was now issues or rust holes that had to be attended to and will be sanding down and rust proofing tomorrow. To tell the truth, this may be listed somewhere already but my earlier searches did not find it. It was a very easy process and I wanted to pass this on to the rest of the group here. Tom
  16. Thanks for all of the advice, I will also get some new bushings to help compensate for the deflection. @Big Red Mach 1, your car looks great as is. Thanks. Tom
  17. Thanks Fabrice and Geoff, I appreciate both responses. Will look at both the shackles and the Eaton leaf springs for research. Tom
  18. I just installed te KYB rear shocks, engine was installed a couple months ago. I figured that the front spings would drop more but have not. I have a 351C and FMX transmisission installed and would like to have a taller stance in the rear end. I am good with ordering new leaf springs but would rather not have to change spings in front. Any and all thoughts appreciated. Thanks. Tom
  19. Did the quarter window roll-down change today. I got lucky on the drivers side window and it aligned pretty quick, the passenger window took about 20 minutes to get the window alignment correct. Really like this mod, now I just have to drill the window handle holes in my interior quarter panels. Tom
  20. Best wishes for you and your family brother. You and your family are in my prayers. Tom
  21. I installed them a few months ago. I bought them from Don at Ohio Mustang. Wasn't hard at all. I used a 3 inch hole saw on some wood I had laying around. Wrapped some tape around the wood so it would fit snug in the hole on the underside of the hood. Using the hole saw ensured that my center hole was in the proper place. after I inserted the wood with the tape on it in the hole, the center hole for the drill marked where to drill the pilot hole. After that, I used my hole saw again and drilled the 3 inch hole for the twist locks. When I installed the inside brackets, I did have to put a washer or two behind the bracket so that everything lined up correctly. Adjusted the nut on the twist lock so that I did not get any "oil canning" when twist lock was engaged and they fit correctly. Yes, it was a pucker factor drilling into my new unpainted hood but I suspect it would be even worse drilling into a painted hood. I say go for it, they make the hood look great even if they are more cosmetic than preventive. Good luck. Tom
  22. Thanks Don, I appreciate the info, none of my harness is connected at this time, just starting the install this weekend. Tom
  23. So sorry for your loss. You and your family will be in our prayers. Tom
  24. Looking at alternator wiring pics now that I have the right harness, I see something in a diagram that I don't recognize. Anyone know what this is and where I can get one? I have a 1973 with center ammeter gauge. Thanks. Tom
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