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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mustang Grande, Light Pewter
    351C H code w/FMX transmission.
    23k original miles


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    Sacramento, CA
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goforbroke's Achievements


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  1. Also, out of curiosity, does avgas have enough/too much lead to be beneficial or harmful?
  2. Appreciate all the feedback! It is a 23k mile car that has been passed down through three generations. Everything is original on it except for the usual wear, and tune up items, with the exception of some of the a/c parts that needed to be replaced to convert over to 134a. Here are some photos...
  3. So I have this 73 Grande with 23k original miles, and as many of you know, these are 351c engines are turds with all the smog restrictions in place (California car). As a project, I've been tempted to pull the heads to have a machine shop install hardened valve seats. Of course, that would be a good time to upgrade the cam, and timing gear/chain. I've been tempted to ditch all of the egr equipment in the process. Do you think doing any of that would diminish the value, and ruin the originality of the car?
  4. That is some type of dope they use at the factory to seal the hole around the temperature probe for the a/c cutoff switch. I used plumbers putty when I resealed my heater box.
  5. Great. I get to pull the fan and pullys off again...
  6. Not sure if this helps you out at all, but I snapped a couple of pictures before I removed the heater box...
  7. Due to a heater core leak, I was forced to disconnect the A/C lines going to the heater box. I figured this would be a good time to get the A/C back in working order. I ordered all new hoses, and other parts needed to retrofit the system to R134. Keep in mind i'm going for originality with this car so try not to give me grief about the York and R134... Anyway, Original Air is taking their sweet time getting my hose kit shipped out so I'm currently trying to remove the compressor so the A/C shop can change out all the seals. For the love of god, how many bolts do you need to hold in an A/C compressor? Apparently 7 is the magic number that Ford decided upon, and doubled down by burying two of them so deep, a deep water drilling rig couldn't reach em. So what's the trick for getting this monster out? Is there a way to get to all four bolts on the underside of the compressor, or do I need to remove the bracket? Thanks. :banghead:
  8. Thanks for all the great feedback! The wheels really brought the car together, and made it all look in proportion. The factory 14" steel wheels with original hubcaps just weren't doing it. Other than the wheels, and a pertronix ignition, everything is original or oem. That odometer is reading the original miles of 23k!
  9. Finally got around to getting some pics of my 73 Grande while it was out of the garage. There are a few things left to take care of, but soon she'll have working air, and fully road worthy!
  10. Thanks for all the feedback. Everything is stock on the car so I just went with the Ignitor I module. The car does not have a tach, but if you can run resisted supply to the coil with the Ignitor I, I'll just leave it alone. I did purchase the 1.5 ohm coil to install with the module as well. I think my concern is more with the timing marks being off on the balancer. The car has been family owned since new, and according to my father, timing the engine in the past hasn't been a problem, which makes me think the balancer has slipped. I've been chasing down a rough idle as well. The car drives fine, but i'll be damned if i can get the thing to idle smooth. The worst thing you can do to a car is let it sit...
  11. I read through the pertronix instructions before I installed the unit, but iii checked the voltage while it was running, and I guess that throws off the volt meter. I checked it in the KOEO position, and I was getting 7 volts at the coil, so there is a resistor. Would you happen to know where it's mounted? I looked all over the engine bay, and was unable to locate it. Also there is only one vacuum hose connected to the distributor, and I disconnect, and plug it when I'm checking the timing.
  12. I wasn't aware that they had a resistor on that year. I'm getting 12 volts at the coil so I didn't even think about it. I don't think that would throw off the timing mark though. I got the car up on ramps today so I could get a close look at the harmonic balancer, and it looks in great shape. The rubber is perfectly intact, and not cracked at all. Is it possible the balancer still could have slipped on the hub? The car only has 23k miles.
  13. I went to check the timing on my 73 Grande after installing a Pertronix ignition module, and noticed the timing was way off (30+ degrees advanced). I retarded the timing to 8 BTDC, and the car ran like crap. When I went to restart it, the engine backfired into the exhaust so i know the timing was too retarded. I advanced the distributor back to where the engine was happiest, and for the heck of it threw the timing light back on it. The timing marks seem to coincide with the peephole looking thing below the timing tang. What is that peephole? Is that what I'm supposed to use for timing reference, or has the outer ring slipped on the harmonic dampener?
  14. Thanks for the positive feedback! You cant really see it in the picture, but under the pvc line, there is a little pitting and erosion on the manifold gasket surface. I'm not sure if its going to seal properly or not. It's amazing that spacer rotted out after only 23k miles, but I guess a combination of ethanol fuel, lack of driving, and clogged up carb made the perfect storm. There's a few more things that need to be done, but I'm looking forward to taking it out on the road, not just around the block to warm it up.
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