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Everything posted by Blueoval71

  1. For me personally it's the difference between walking past a car and stopping to look.
  2. Sorry, I haven't been on too much recently and lost track of the thread. I spoke to Ravelco recently because a local plumbing company has had several of their vans stolen, but Ravelco no longer sell to shops or previous dealers. It is done by their "in house" installers only similar to Lojack. This would concern me as the owner of a classic vehicle. For the hood lock I would recommend perhaps a rod and custom type shop. It's really straight forward and just requires patience and basic fab skills in some cases. You can have 15 hidden switches and an alarm , but if the would be thief can get to the solenoid the car is his. I demonstrated this to a customer a couple of weeks ago who had spent 10+ years restoring an early Ranchero. He was not happy.
  3. This. Except for the rust preventing bonus I had the same thing happen. About a year later a friend of mine had a small engine fire as a result of a oil feed line that failed. As long as the electronic sender is good and you have a good source of reverence voltage the gauges should read accurately.
  4. I just upgraded everything so I have a 28 spline unit I no longer need. It probably has 50k miles max of regular driving on it.
  5. That's infuriating!:@ Did you find all of the pieces? I fix stuff like this all the time. If you want to send it my way I'll see what I can do. I found all but one piece, and of course, it's the piece that you would be able to see from the front. I've been on my hands and knees for the last half hour with a flash light. no luck. Now I'll be on a quest for the rest of the night till I find it. Thanks for the offer. I'll keep you posted. The ironic thing is, I have three of the end caps for the right side (metal, of course) and only the one for the left side. Figures..... Whenever I drop something and it disappears It's usually as far under the edge of a tire as possible.:dodgy: I'm serious though about fixing it.
  6. That's infuriating!:@ Did you find all of the pieces? I fix stuff like this all the time. If you want to send it my way I'll see what I can do.
  7. I gave up on using that combo years ago. That was about the only option for a 5.8 out there when I bought them in 98 or so. It sits sad and neglected next to the Vortech R-trim I'll probably never get around to using either.:(
  8. If you didn't already have a 351C I would go Windsor. I have a brand new 5.8 lightning lower and genuine 93 Cobra upper both extrude honed that would work great.Hint hint.
  9. http://www.spintechmufflers.com/ These used to be called Spintrap mufflers, but the original owners of Dr. Gas sold the rights to the guy that was actually building the mufflers for them several years ago. I have been running these since 94 and wouldn't consider using anything else on a muscle car. They are deep and throaty without a lot of droning. At idle they have a good rumble and actually smooth out at higher rpm.
  10. For rust removal I would strongly recommend never using Eastwood's Gel Rust Dissolver. The active ingredient is hydrochloric acid. Health risks aside, several ounces of this (which oozed out of the faulty container) flash rusted everything within a 20 foot radius overnight. This included the majority of the 52 Chevy truck cab I had just finish sanding to bare metal. It took 2 large boxes of baking soda,a case of scotch brite pads ad several months to neutralize the fume contamination from that crap. A safer alternative is Klean Strip Phosphoic Prep and Etch. It's about $15/Gal at Home Depot. Make sure to keep it wet and neutralize it with baking soda/distilled water. If it dries while working with it just apply a little more to re wet the area. A small stainless brush works great to work it in to rough areas.
  11. The cut yellow wires are just one common wire. I would connect it to a fused circuit like the cig lighter or dome light. I've never used one of those clocks, but I imagine it should utilize the ground wire in the harness you have there or chassis ground when mounted. Good luck.
  12. Fuel injected 460 truck application. Ah very cool. I think most of the 7.5 injected distributors use a remote mounted TFI module, but that's easy enough to accommodate. Thanks for the heads up.
  13. That went over my head, but I couldn't tell if it was a wrench or a joke.:-/
  14. That's cool! I would think you would use the harness/computer from a 89-93 Mustang. The 87-88 are speed density so make sure to use a MAF type harness/ computer from a 89-93. Painless and Ford Racing sell drop in harnesses, but I would hit the junk yards and try to find a car you can yank everything out of. You need the processor harness, engine harness and o2 sensor harness. The optimal computer would be the A9L. Professional Products sells a good fuel rail kit. Here's a short list of what you'll need: processor wire harnesses aftermarket MAF housing (C&L or Pro-M) aftermarket throttle body 80-90mm injectors- probably 36-42 lb injectors fuel rails/line/fittings o2 sensors/ weld in bungs a couple of engine sensors. Probably air charge temp (ACT) and engine coolant temp. They should just screw into the lower intake. The distributor will be interesting. I'll look into options. I just don't know how the EEC-IV type computer will react if you're not using it to fire a distributor. Then there's the fuel system. The basic way would be to sump the back of the tank and run a 8 and 6 line for supply/return. I'm going to do a fuel hat type setup with internal baffles on mine. some day. Here's a few places to look for doing the swap using 5.0 parts http://oldfuelinjection.com/ http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/EFI%20Swap%20-%20Wiring.htm
  15. I do this in classics and hot rods all the time. Having the speakers work with both radios seriously complicates the install, but can be done. I use an infrared repeater so you can use the remote to control all of the functions of the radio with the glove box closed or mounted in an obscure location. It requires modifying the glove box insert to accommodate the depth of the radio. Half of the time the radio ends up in the trunk especially in 30's era Fords. I usually use the Kenwood KDC-X597 for what you are asking to do. It just depends on what media you want to use (tuner,cd,iPod ,sat radio,bluetooth audio,ect).
  16. Awesome! I'll get there someday.:(
  17. I missed this one the first time around. Let me measure the one I got recently and verify its the correct size for my coupe. I'm working on a stupid boat today , but I should have time this evening to look.
  18. ::goodjob:: Looks like you conquered the trunk paint. I was doing the same thing the other night on the pass side inner wheelhouse so I could eliminate the spare tire notch. It's a beautiful morning here so you should have great weather for priming today. Keep at it!
  19. Why, oh, why didn't I take the blue pill?
  20. Yes Autopage, Directed Electronics (Viper) and Compustar offer modules to add control of your alarm via a smart phone. The main concern for installing a system like this in our vehicles is that the smart phone module antenna needs a clear view of the sky. This is simple in newer cars because it can be installed high up in the under dash or behind the cluster and function because the dash is plastic. Our Metal dash will inhibit the signal. It would likely have to be hidden somewhere under the rear window. There is a monthly charge for the service and each of them offer slightly different features. Autopage was recently purchased by Varad (a crappy company that sells led and neon lighting accessories) and are completely disorganized at the moment. I was a dealer for several years, but I'm waiting to see if they turn things around.
  21. Hedman's fit well. I used them on my 302 and went with a new set for my Windsor. Nothing good will come from using Tri-y's when other options are available.
  22. X10 This is really simple and works most of the time. Use a small flat punch or round bar stock and a hammer if you are concerned about whacking the surrounding area. Just give it a tap to flatten it out. The sheet metal is simply pulled outward or stretched from over tightening or repeated removal. I have to do this all the time especially with door sill plates.
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