Jump to content

rotorr22

Members
  • Posts

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rotorr22

  1. My experience mirror's yours. I have run the Summit carbs on two applications and found it to be one of the best carbs out there for the street. Those big annular boosters are just what the doctor ordered for a Cleveland and I like the fact that you can change jets without spilling fuel. A 750 VS would work fine. On the flip side, the Summit carb may give up some HP vs, a traditional Holley or Quick Fuel that is equipped with traditional downleg boosters. I've seen it on the dyno with my 306 Windsor and also read similar in carburetor shootouts. It would not be my first choice on a car that I raced however; the throttle response, quick starting and good fuel mileage are what you want on a street cruiser.
  2. Has anyone ever tried fabbing a faux urethane bumper by modifying a steel one? I would give it a shot if I had a template to work off of. Since you are painting it, makes no difference if some filler material is used to get the contour right.
  3. Having owned three of these cars, I have found that the hinges can be bent just by pulling "down" vertically with a lot of force. I personally "push" my hood toward the cowl while simultaneously pulling down. I've replaced hinges on two of my cars due to the previous owners trying to close them improperly.
  4. While I've yet to use one on a Cleveland (I'm going to soon), I have used both the 4100's as well as Summit's "improved version" on Windsor applications with good success. The large annular boosters provide very good throttle response, quick starts and I like the fact that I can replace jets without fuel spilling all over the intake. The down side is that I've given up some HP vs. other carbs I've tried of similar flow ratings. On the street, the trade off was worth it as I find them pretty easy to dial in. I've never used one with a real lumpy cam, however.
  5. SteveO_71, Good input. You could well be right that they use a generic picture, but I would want a picture of MY companies part if it were up to me! I do intend calling each manufacturer for a better understanding, but of course they all want to sell their product and will slant the benefits accordingly. At the end of the day, it will be up to my buddy to make his own choice on what is best for his car. Jack is not what you might call "mechanical" by a long shot, hence needing my help. As there appears to be only three companies that make these door panels, I was hoping for comments from members who had experience, good or bad, with these three. While other comments are interesting and valid under those circumstances, they are not relative to the question at hand. Another alternative would be to repair the cracked panel. We have a guy locally who claims to be able to repair vinyl parts, but it's still a repair and can crack again. Can one purchase only one panel from Mustang Market. I'm painting one of my originals. so a perfect color match is not a concern . Everyone seems to offer them in pairs only.
  6. Does anyone make correct replacement bumpers for the fold down rear seat. I'm not sure mine are original. but they look similar to hood stops.
  7. I need a BT intake, so let the thread continue...........
  8. I to originally thought the same thing. What suggestions do you have for a rebuild? As I pointed out earlier, you can achieve your target of 375 HP (400 is a stretch keeping it street friendly) with a 302, but not with a naturally aspirated 1973 302. The 1973 302 has low flowing heads and dished hypereutectic pistons that will make it difficult to build compression. You can add a better intake, carb and cam and pick up some power, but those heads and low CR are really going to hold you back. If you insist on keeping it a 302, you can do something similar to my Maverick build. I used a set of early AFR 165 heads, a Weiand Stealth dual plane intake, 600 CFM Summit carb, E303 Ford Racing hydraulic roller cam, + .030" over Speed Pro flat top pistons at zero deck with 58CC chambers and a stock Duraspark II ignition. Timing set at 34 degrees total. This combo or something close, will put you between 360-375 HP @ 6,000 RPM with a set headers that will match the larger aftermarket exhaust ports. You will require a higher stall converter, around 3,000 RPM and a set of 3.55 or higher gears to make it responsive in the heavier Mustang. Bear in mind that retaining your stock engine driven fan will cost you some power at higher RPM. You should see 300-325 HP at the rear wheels with a good, high flowing dual exhaust. You can consider going with either a 331 or 347 stroker which will pump up the torque nicely, at the cost of increased friction losses and higher oil consumption vs. that experienced with the 302.
  9. A stroker 302 is an option. The block does require notching for the stroker crank and yes, different rods are required. The wrist pin is located so high in the piston that it breaks into the oil ring land, requiring a ring support. A number of 347 owners report increased oil consumption over that experienced with the 302 even when using the revised ring package. The 302 block is also substantially weaker through the lifter valley and main bearing webbing vs. a 351W. Cap walk is more of an issue with a stroked 302 vs. a 351W as well. All things considered, the 351W is a better bang for the buck IMO, if you have the room to accommodate one. It will live longer at 400 HP and like the 302, can be stroked to achieve big block torque numbers.
  10. You can meet your HP target with a 302. I have one in my Maverick producing that kind of power. Having said that, I would not personally choose that foundation for a Mustang project given the relatively large engine compartment these cars afford. If I were seeking a streetable, docile 400 HP engine, I would begin with a 351W. A mild hydraulic roller cam with a good set of aftermarket heads will put you right there and a 351W will produce significantly more torque as well. You can retain your C4 and stock 8", provided that you drive it sanely and keep it on the street. I would however, have a good tranny shop upgrade the transmission for more severe duty. The c4 can be upgraded to take 400 HP reliably and an 8" rear end will hold up on the street with an automatic. All bets are off if it is drag raced with slicks, however.
  11. Minor tight lipped cracks are OK. I just don't want one where the crack has opened up and is curled. I will be re-spraying it.
  12. Has anyone purchased a set of these SS headers advertised on Ebay? I'm sure that they are Chinese knockoffs of someone's headers. The fact that they advertise them fitting a 74 Mustang 351C is scary enough. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Racing-SS-Exhaust-Manifold-Headers-70-74-Ford-Mustang-351-Cleveland-4V-NEW/200935863364?_trkparms=pageci%3Add9f2437-16c6-11e8-823c-74dbd180fc9e%7Cparentrq%3Ab6cde0961610a861f022ed61fff1c286%7Ciid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236
  13. Since the color doesn't matter, someone has got to have one of these!
  14. I had the ultimate bad. The previous owner painted my white interior black and did a very lousy job at that. I also used lacquer thinner and scotch bright to remove the paint, followed by a steam cleaner and Wesley's Bleche-Wite. The Bleche-Wite works on white seats as good as it does on white walls and RWL tires. I also went through a box of nitrile gloves in the process.
  15. I envy those who have cars that don't require it......
  16. I never thought about using a wading pool. That is a good idea. You can buy feed grade molasses at Tractor Supply and yes, it works great at stripping rust. I soaked a rusty 302 block in it for about three weeks, It stripped all of the rust both externally and in the water jackets. My machinist couldn't believe it. It is non toxic and bio degradable. You can also soak steel parts in white vinegar. Just don't immerse cast iron in it.
  17. Yup. I'll be doing same to mine. I'll also be doing the wheel houses on the drivers side. It seems strange that the left hand side of my car needs so much more work than the right. I assume both halves of the car saw the same conditions.
  18. Outstanding. This gives me a much better picture of the fit and the prep.
  19. I tried something on my Maverick that worked great. I used the hook tool to free up part of the trim and then GENTLY pulled it lengthwise (from the end). The trim slid off of the clips one by one. It must be done with great care, so as not to bend the trim. I'm not sure this will work on the stang, but I intend to try it on my own car soon.
  20. Has anyone purchased and installed this quarter panel skin? If so, how is the fit? https://www.cjponyparts.com/quarter-panel-skin-fastback-1971-1973/p/QPS7-V/
  21. I found a very nice passenger side door panel. Now I need to find one for the drivers side. Any color considered.
  22. It would be nice to have an NOS bumper to pull a mold off of. This bumper deal reminds me of chasing down a Grabber hood for my Maverick. I'm surprised that no one has introduced a reproduction bumper or better yet, a carbon fiber, lightweight replacement. Ok - admittedly cheesy. Scuff, prime, paint, a chrome bumper. The size and shape are real close and most people would not even notice. - Paul That's been on my mind.......
  23. It would be nice to have an NOS bumper to pull a mold off of. This bumper deal reminds me of chasing down a Grabber hood for my Maverick. I'm surprised that no one has introduced a reproduction bumper or better yet, a carbon fiber, lightweight replacement.
  24. Its a crap shoot until your machine shop can inspect the parts. If everything is in good shape and you can be all in after machining for $700-$800 bucks its a good deal. Caveat Emptor. Also, assuming you intend a pump gas build you need to determine what dish and compression height of the piston is to make sure it will net a compatible compression ratio. Bear in mind that new BBF stroker kits can be had pretty reasonably and you can custom tailor most kits in regards to compression ratio, based on your heads/bore and stroke. Machine work is getting somewhat pricey these days, so turning a crank, reconditioning a set of rods and installing new bolts may not make a economic sense anymore.
×
×
  • Create New...