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egon1107

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Ford Mustang Mach1
    4-Speed Manual
    351 Cleveland
    Metalic Blue
    complete restauration 2014-2017

    [url=https://ibb.co/kzSi46][img]https://preview.ibb.co/mX2GP6/2017_10_07_17_07_58.jpg[/img][/url]

    [url=https://ibb.co/izci46][img]https://preview.ibb.co/jOUKcR/2017_10_07_17_06_29.jpg[/img][/url]

    [url=https://ibb.co/nAvQHR][img]https://preview.ibb.co/bzdecR/2017_05_09_19_34_20.jpg[/img][/url]

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  • Location
    Austria
  • Region
    International

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    Undisclosed

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  1. Sorry but i didnt have time for the car the last days. Yesterday i found some time and tried the sings you suggested. So when it happens i dont have fuel pressure, but the fuel pressure is back as soon i try to restart. My fuel pump is quite new with only 500 miles on it as well as the carb. At normal conditions i get about 5psi of fuel pressure, seems correct because the spezifications of my fuel pump are 5.5 to 6.5 max pressure. I replaced the fuel line from the pump to carb because it was squased a little bit with a heat protection 3/8" one. @sonnerbilz It is possible that at a brand new carb the float bowl level is not correct ? @midlife As i checked the spark works perfectly after it happens. @jeff73mach1 It happens wenn i hard brake as well as when i stop very smoothly. Most times when i go from driving to stop this occurs, no matter if i hard brake or stop as smooth as i can. As soon i press the clutch engine turns off. As i tested i discoverd that it happens more when the engine got some resistance at stopping. This means when i have the light and my extended fan on the alternator has to do some work and it happens far more. As well as i turn the steering wheel instantly after stop the power steering is a little resistance it happens more often so it might not be the battery voltage. But i tried a full charged new battery to get sure and still the same problems. Thanks for your time Daniel
  2. @midlife I can understand you and i will check fuel pressue. How would you check the spark? How can i check the spark a few seconds before this happens, after it turns off i turn the starter and the engine starts after like 5 sec so no long starting, it starts nearby instantly like a warm engine would. When the egine runs there is no problem but its just when i drive and then stop from driving the engine turns off. Most times after starting again it all works at idle and driving, so i am not sure becuase when the coil has a problem there will be more impacts at driving or idle and not just from drive to stop.
  3. I allredy order a fuel pressure gauge but it will not come before next monday so i have to wait. But your suggestion with the air filter of is a good idea. It depends, sometimes when the problem occur i immidiatly start cause i am in traffic with like 10% throttle and then it idles like there were never any problems. But sometimes i have to start it 4 or 5 times and everytime i go off the throttle and it comes like under 1500 rpm it turns of. When i give him some time like 10-20 min it idles very smooth. Edit: I remember a modification i did after the rebuild, i custom made a new downpipe and wraped it in a fiberglas fabric band to pretend to head up my floor and inner space. Dont know if this has an impact.
  4. Thanks for your Help. I got a 1inch carb spacer out of plastic, but nothing changes. I tried it a whole afternoon but i have the same problems. The engine was very hot and i touched the carb which was hand warm. So the spacer does his job. Unfortunately i have not the chance to get another coil or ignition system. I just can by a new one but my installed one is nearby new and when it works perfektly byside the single situation. So i dont really think that the ingnition is broken. I dont have an EGR on my engine and i dont think the Fuel is bad. In Austria we have quite good fuel, i dont now if you know but it is unleaded Super Plus 98 octane what i get from the gas station.
  5. Hello, first to my car. I have a 1973 Mustang Mach 1 with an 351 Cleveland 2V and a manual 4 speed. gearbox. Problem: I have the problem that when the car is warm it suddenly turns off. Not while driving but when i drive along and then stop for a street sign or cause of traffic as soon as i press the clutch at first gear like 10 sec later the engine turns off. Sometimes when i quickly start again to not block the traffic it runns normal but especially when the car is very warm from a long trip the engine turns off every time. So i have to rev the at about 1500 to 2000 rpm when i stop in traffic to keep the engine runing. Engine: The engine was rebuilded 2 months ago, so i drove like 1500 miles since. I have a small edelbrock carb with 600cfm (edelbrock 1405). I have a very street use cameshaft (Speed Pro cs1085r) so normally it revs at about 800 rpm very smooth. I have a standart HEI Distributor from summitracing (sum-850025) which is vaccum advanced. At this point i was not sure but i connected the vaccum advanced port to the Manifold Vaccum Port of my carb (right port at edelbrock). The ignition is set to 8degrees BTDC. I already tried to play a little bit with the ignition timing to set 6 or 10 degrees but nothing changed. Than i was reading that this could be a problem when the spark plug cables are crossing each other so i sepperated them with a minimum of 1inch gab everwhere to go sure but nothing changes. Does anyone have the same problem or knows how to handle with this ? Thanks Daniel
  6. Ok thanks. I just rebuild my engine for E-Street use. A little bit larger carburator and an electric ignition for better usage and maybe a e-street edelbrock cam (#2172) so i think i am fine with original connecting rods.
  7. Hi, first i am new here and want to say hello to anyone. I have a 1973 Mustang Mach1 with a 4 Speed Manual Gearbox and i am currently rebuilding my engine. I am not sure about the engine but the code for the block is (D2AE-CA) with the heads (D4AE) so i think it is a 351 cleveland. I need new connecting rods for my engine but i dont realy know which one i need. I searched at summitracing for some and only found 2 positions for my engine and year, am i searching right? And i also need new intake and exhaust valves for my engine. I searched on the net for any measurements for my (D4AE) cylinder heads but could not realy find anything? Does anyone already rebuilded an 351 Cleveland and can help me a little bit with this problem? Thank you for your time. Daniel
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