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    71 mach 1


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  1. Guys thanks so much for all the answers and help. Don C you did suspect timing. Turns out timing was advanced. Unbelievable it was just a bit maybe less than an 1/8 of a turn on the distributor. Once again want to say thanks for all the support, you guys are awesome.
  2. Before cranking at + solenoid. 12.6. During cranking both sides of solenoid bounce around reading 7 down to 2 volts. 3 new solenoids all do the sane thing. Solenoid is passing through the volts its getting. Coil mounted on top of engine. Pulled every fuse I could find no change to voltage reading of 11.8 volts still with neg cable removed. The only time I get a proper 0 reading is when I remove the + battery cable from the solenoid ( which obviously breaks the battery away from the system so 0 reading is expected) but the yellow fusible link off the + side solenoid is the only fusible link (of the three mounted on + side solenoid) that when removed give me an expected 0 reading. The only time it cranks strong and sends 12.6 to starter is when distributor side of coil 7mm wire is grounded to manifold.
  3. Thanks Don C. No changes to cranking or voltage readings to removing + coil or starter side of solenoid. Will try to identify the circuit this weekend. Added pic of solenoid as per 73pony request. Thanks again guys.
  4. Thanks for suggestion. Disconnected voltage regulator, then removed wires off alternator. Also removed coil + and - wires. No change still shows voltage. But I did find the coil is leaking oil.
  5. Hi guys thanks for suggestions, so I’ve cleaned battery posts. Double checked and cleaned to bare metal. New negative cable to block. Added ground from clean metal of rear block to firewall. Added a third ground from neg bat post to inner fender below solenoid. Same issue slow crank 7-10 volts being dropped.. Ran a fourth ground to be sure I’m grounded, from manifold to chassis. Same issue. Hard to read my original post so will reiterate the issue. Car turns over perfectly only when distributor side of coil 7mm wire is grounded to manifold. Also still have voltage when neg cable removed from bat. Test neg post to ground 11.8 volts (only poitive cable attached), open door and jumps to 12.6 volts. Car cranked well before with old spark plug wire set, but am sure they were arching because I remember getting a wicked shock when I touched one of the wires while setting the carb as engine was running. Once again any help is appreciated.
  6. Battery post clean, negative bat cable runs from battery to front of engine block. Nothing goes to regulator just single cable bat to block.
  7. —Hi guys. I’m having a heck of a time figuring this one out. Slow crank with huge voltage drop of 7-10 volts at positive side of the solenoid. 2 things I found. Remove 7mm coil wire from distributor and ground to manifold. Cranks fine no voltage drop. Put coil wire back on distributor and have voltage drop, slow cranking. Remove negative battery cable, positive cable still attached. Volt meter black probe to negative battery post and red probe to any bare metal. Volt meter reads 11.8 volts constant. Open the drivers door and volts now show 12.6. Press the door switch in and volts drop back to 11.8. Same test on my other car with negative battery cable removed attach meter the same way and the voltage has a reading of say 9 volts but immediately starts to dissipitate the voltage slowly down to 0 volts. Which appears to be normal I think. Any ideas would be appreciated. Engine was removed painted, engine box painted recently. Ran fine before this restoration done. Tried booster cables to test grounds from block to different places on firewall and around chassis but same issue prevails.
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