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    72 mustang mach 1


  • Location
    New Jersey

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  1. I just finished up with the car. Don, you were right about the trouble being in the cluster. Maneuvering the wiring and the plug cleared up the fuel gauge and turn signal issue. Of course after I got everything back together I realized I had no fuel gauge lights. The car also wouldn't start now. I realized I forgot to plug the tach back in. Not sure why that happens but I have heard of this. So, back into the dash to plug in theta have and fix the lifts. All is well now. Thanks for the nudge in the right direction. Scott
  2. I think I know the answer to this based on searching through past threads but I just want to be sure before I go back into the dashboard. I recently had the interior of the car apart and at this time, did work on the gauge pod. Since I put it all back together the turn signal indicators on the dash operate erratically. If I turn the left signal on the right indicator will come in with the left indicator. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. Same for the right turn signal and indicator. The actual turn signals are working normally on the exterior of the car so this problem is in the dash. Now while this is happening sometimes my fuel gauge needle shoots past Full. I currently have a half a tank of gas and while driving today the gauge read half full most of the time. While idling in a drive through it shot past Full and stayed that way until I got home and shut the car off. I then put the key into the ACC position to liven the gauge back up and it read half a tank as it should. I am thinking that that floppy wiring at the back of the gauge where the main wiring connector clips in is where the short is located. I am guessing that the fuel gauge issue is a short and I am positive that the turn signal issue is a short. Am I headed in the right direction? Thanks guys. Scott
  3. Well, it has been a while bit with all the help of the people here I got the gauges installed and working. I am getting good information from the new gauges and can actually see them now. Thanks to everybody that helped out. I could not have done it without that help. Scott
  4. Crap, for some reason I thought the cigarette lighter was switched. I will find another source for switched 12v. Scott
  5. Ok thanks, that is what I thought. I will grab a wire off of the cigarette lighter. Scott
  6. I am trying to remember the details. I did this prior to my battle with a brain tumor and somethings from that time and before are gone forever. I think I just pried them off. They were just sort of forced onto the gauge housing. Using some needle nose pliers I was able to take bites out of the edge of the bezel until they just came off. It seems to have worked. I haven't had my gauges in the car yet so I don't have the experience you have with the needle but I will just be happy to have a needle that points to some kind of number rather than a needle floating in space with guesswork involved. They look badass too. scott
  7. Midlife, I just want to confirm that the factory ammeter wires are dead when the ignition is switched off? I was thinking I just might run a wire off of the cigarette lighter wiring. That is fused. Thank you for your comments. Very helpful. Mudbilly, I have my gauges mounted in the factory housing. I didn't run into a depth issue because I removed the Autometer silver bezel. That allowed me to sink the gauges into the housing and get a good depth on them. I will snap a shot of the back side of the housing when I get a chance and post that here. I added the blue LED lighting to my gauges a while ago and really liked the look. I have a few other things I am going to do but the Cobalts really go well with the look and I can actually see them at night. scott
  8. Just thought about that as well. Thanks for catching that too. I will get this. scott OK, so I am going to try to reel in what I know about the wires right now. 1. I can use the black (ground) wire from the existing gauge lighting to ground the new Autometer Water temp and Voltmeter gauge. 2. I can connect the factory sending unit wire to the Autometer water temp gauge (red/white wire). 3. I need 12v power wire for both the Autometer water temp and voltmeter. One of the wires in the original wiring harness is 12v power. 4. The factory black wire that is on the factory oil pressure and water temp gauge is NOT a ground wire. My question is, and this might have been answered and I just haven't picked up on it yet, will one of the existing wires that went to the factory ammeter be a good 12v source? One wire is red/orange the other is yellow/blue. Thanks for the help guys. Scott
  9. Hmm, good catch Don. Thank you for picking up on that. That would have been sketchy. So then with that said, I will just grab the 12v+ from the light wires for the gauges and attach that to the Volt gauge. scott
  10. I am on the way to splicing in wires. This is the harness. The volt meter has me stumped. Two wires, yellow/blue and red/orange. My Autometer replacement gauge has a ground tab and another tab for 12v power. Which of the original wires (yellow/blue or red/orange) would be 12v power? If I can figure that wire out I can then just use that one as the 12v power wire for the water temp gauge. Thanks for the help, I am getting closer to the finish line here. Scott
  11. I apologize if this has been covered before. I used the search box but didn't find what I was looking for. That being said, how much power is safe to put into a stock mustang before things start getting hairy. My mustang is a Q code 72 Mach 1. 351C HO with a 3 speed C6 tranny. Everything is stock from the engine back. I was looking at adding power through either a crate motor or a rebuild and wasn't sure how far I could go before other parts of the driveline need to be upgraded. Thanks Scott
  12. Sound seems to be coming from front and center. Also it is not a repetitive sound. Sort of erratic and it does seem to quiet down some as the engine warms up. Scott
  13. I replaced my center console gauges with some Autometer cobalt gauges. My question is about the wiring. The lighting will not be a problem but I am looking specifically for the color coding on the wires to the Voltmeter and the Water Temperature Gauge. The stock voltmeter had two wires, Red and Yellow. The Autometer gauge has a tab for ground and a 12 volt switched source. Which color wire is which? Next is the Water Temperature gauge. The Autometer gauge has the ground tab, sender tab and 12v switched tab. Which color wire is which? Looked around for a wiring diagram but couldn't fine one. Thanks for the help guys. scott
  14. I fired up my 72 Mustang the other day and heard a new sound for the first time. It is sort of like you took a metal nut, put it inside a metal container and shook it a bunch. I think the sound is coming from the front end of the motor, around the distributor/water pump area. It might be coming from the driver side valve cover. I haven't had a chance to use the screwdriver to the ear method but was wondering if anybody out there has heard this sound before or has any idea what it could be. I have a video clip of the engine idling. I will see if I can figure out how to post it. Thanks, Scott
  15. Thanks guys. I am definitely going to do what I want with this car. I was just curious about the color and the history of it on our cars. I figured it was a low production number color. I never see these cars in that color. I can't wait for the weather to warm up so I can start shooting some paint. Thanks guys. scott
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