Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 6DUB606

  1. I found the easiest way was to wind the door window up as it will be, close the door then get inside and move the quarter glass to match the door window. You will have the door glass to line up with and to check it all comes together. You may never get it 100% leak free with new rubbers etc but near enough. Have fun.
  2. Yes - fronts only. No rear belts as too much hassle and nobody will be in there anyway. I left the old ones there rather than dump them and a new owner may choose to re-visit this at some point. Part of the L02 requirement calls for unrestricted exit for any rear passengers so I figured that the drop down from the roof would be considered a problem with this so the top of the B pillar, over shoulder option did the job. These two pics are as good as I have for the final outcome. Car has been sold so I can't get any better ones now. The plates in behind the rear panels may also work for you if the engineers consider it strong enough. There would be more going on in a crash if a rear seat passenger ripped these out ! ! Stick with it.
  3. Does any of this help ? This plate was made to specs requested by my ADR compliance guy. Material is 6 mm thick & plates are approx 100 mm x 75 mm. The large bolt is the seat belt one while the smaller bolt & nut secure it in place - no welding required. Position it where it needs to go then drill a single hole so the plate is tight in behind the panel. On the engineer's suggestion, this car DID NOT get rear seat belts - was configured as a two seater simply because of the hassle you are going through. We took the easy option. The recoilers are on the floor as you can see and the belts come up through a hole where the rear ashtray would be. We did it as an " over the shoulder " style rather than have a hanger from the roof. The ADR dimensions allowed this so the top anchor swivel is at the top of the B pillar and belts retract neatly when not in use. It is done the same way - plate in behind the paneling with a bolt to keep it there. I had to put spacers in behind the plastic panels to keep them flat when the belt attachment bolt was secured. Might be worth a consideration for you ?
  4. Hello from a fellow Aust owner. You'll need to post what body style it's for - Mach 1 Sportsroof I recall ? Watch for a reply from Mike Beradi ( Motorcity Mustangs ) as he has a collection of parts cars. Also Don & O M S. Keep digging.
  5. Does the car have air cond ? Or DID it have a/c ? I'm picking the brown wire would be connected to the compressor drive and activates the magnetic clutch when the a / c is turned on. Yes, there was a rubber grommet to secure it through the firewall. If it is ( was ) the wire to the a /c compressor, the other end will have a black plastic female plug and be beside the left side rocker cover, near the PCV / oil filler cap. More mysteries. PKJ
  6. Hi Brendan. I'm the same poster as 188LVU on the Aust owners site. Engine number will be on the back of the black, left hand ( drivers ) side, just below the head. This is from inside the car, not standing in front of it. I managed to get in via the top to scrape off 3 layers of gunk, attack the general area with coarse sandpaper then use a bright light & mirror to see it. If you have one of those flexible scope gizmos, much better. Take off the cross brace that runs from the firewall to the top of the shock absorber to make access easier but you will still have the brake booster & other stuff to deal with.. You will only get the end part of the VIN if it matches your car. There have been a few posts about this here. Do a search on " engine number " or similar to see what others gave done. Interesting work. PKJ
  7. On the side, just below the cap, should be the words " cold fill " or something similar. May depend on the radiator you have if not original or good repro. Either way, if you overfill it, the surplus will be spat out when it's at running temp. Any more than that may suggest a problem but don't over-react until you check further. The temp gauge will certainly show high at next start up if its been sitting and then settle back as the coolant flows again & fan is running. PKJ
  8. So far, so good. On my earlier reply, I didn't get into the roller alignment detail. Mine were all seized up with old grease & gunk. Again, not a lot of movement so should not be a wear problem. Make sure they both move freely and the tension spring is in the right place. There will be pics on here that you can refer to or someone will send one . My car is sold otherwise I would do it for you. Don't buy new hinges yet - keep working on what you have, you're getting close.
  9. Not sure how you will search this, but a year or so back I recall there was an option someone found for a JEEP ! ! Others may chime in with better info but it was almost identical dimensions etc. Keep digging.
  10. There is very little movement at the points where the curled part of these springs contact so if they are well lubed same as the hinge pins, they should be fine. My car was missing one on the driver's side but I could not find the torsion piece on its own - ended up with a used complete hinge and just took the spring out to swap over. Job done. If you have found the torsion spring alone, happy days. They are a bit tricky to put in under load so be careful. Have fun.
  11. I did the same as you. Finally found the locations listed by the sticker manufacturer whom I'm sure is known to others here - Jim Somebody ? ? Anyway: the tire spec decal goes on the passenger side door B pillar just below the lock striker ( many put them on the door itself ) The yellow emissions sticker needs to match the engine spec & goes on the edge of the cowl, passenger side as you suggest. That's where I went & have seen it confirmed in other pics so keep looking. Also do a search here. Have fun. PKJ
  12. Agree - metal plug / cap, same as the floor ones. I tried a rubber shock top cover but even with trimming the outer edges it would not fit properly & stay there. Had to re-drill one hole to line it up for the screws ( probably repro & not accurate )
  13. And me too. Not a good pic. The recovery unit is just in the bottom right corner. Had to make a couple of brackets to keep it vertical but used existing holes in the rad support panel. Overflow tube comes through a hole down the bottom and drain sits below the stone guard underneath. Can't see it from outside so no visual intrusion. Happy daze.
  14. I went through the same things. West Coast Classic Cougars showed one with $38 price tag. I'm in Australia & chose to skip this. Ended up getting a 3/4" black poly irrigation fitting and doing some real backyard mods on it. Basically out of site so decided it was good enough. Keep looking.
  15. I'm in Mackay, Qld ( sun shining & virus free ) Car is currently for sale through Aust Mustang Owners forum & Gumtree. Local owner of a '72 Grande just had glass supplier 3 shots at getting the front screen correct. Have fun with your project. Have noted your number, thanks. PKJ
  16. Greetings from a fellow Aussi owner. It's an 05 Mach 1 so will be 63R. The " tab " they refer to would be on the rear edge of the left hand door but frequently lost over time. If you haven't already got one, order a Marti report for this VIN, it will tell you all kinds of detail & help with other searches. Might also put your question on the Mustang Owners Australia forum for local advice. Have fun. PKJ.
  17. If this all has a happy ending, I'm chasing these connections also. I was sent a link to one of the straight connections for emission tube @ $38 but chose to pass on this. The crankcase PCV filter housing and pad plus the spring clip are not so bad but that rubber 90 deg elbow is the kicker. I'm in Australia so crappy exchange rate plus postage come in to play. Second hand / grubby used / no filter pad ? no problem, I can deal with these. All options considered. Thanks folks. PKJ
  18. I have been in the hydraulics / fluid power industry for many years. General requirements for all hoses, end fittings & adapters is for a 4 : 1 safety factor - means that if a system is intended to work at 1,500 p.s.i., the " design minimum burst " for all components should be 6,000. We always static tested hose assemblies to twice the stated working pressure - 3,000 in this case. The crimp characteristics are from the machine used and should be checked by the manufacturer to meet or exceed the 4 : 1 criteria. Some are certainly more reliable than others. Hose assemblies often act as an unofficial fuse - the $30 hose will fail before you blow a more critical unit such as the pump, cylinder or valve block etc. If the relief valve doesn't do its job, this is often your clue that it has gone to the point of least resistance. I am more confident in the styles that have a lateral compression pattern as the forces are spread around the full circumference. The chromate one is holding on by the depressions parallel to the line of greatest pressure and shock loads can cause the fitting to gradually inch its way off. Look at the rubber cover of the failed hose - is it still fairly smooth ? If so, that suggests that it has simply pulled itself apart. You may get some test specs info from manufacturers so certainly worth the questions. Keep digging. PKJ
  19. I've just had the same problem - overfilled the reservoir and it blew the surplus out past the dipstick. Note on the dipstick reads " check with oil hot " and fluid will show just on the hash marks at the bottom. Engine should be " off " for this check. The tube acts as a mini expansion chamber as it warms up. The long hose will move slightly under pressure but there should be a bracket on top of the firewall / shocktower brace to support it. Look for other posts & images on this topic also. The system will " self bleed " so air will be eliminated with the first few cycles of the steering wheel. Check fluid level again after your first test drive to be sure. You're doing well.
  20. Last one - not the best but should be enough to see the end result. This connection brings the pressure line up where you can get at it. Took the dipstick out for this pic. Hope all this helps you tidy it up. Have fun.
  21. Now got another to load up. This is pre-assembly and again, not genuine configuration. One tip: when we made these, I used ends with a hex section that is held with one wrench while the fitting is tightened with a second tool to save twisting the tube piece. Also modified the top end as the place I worked with could not match the thread on the end of the hose. Had to cut off & re-fit to use the 9/16" JIC male shown here. Serves the purpose, job done. Will try to load the final installation pic next.
  22. My max is 2.44MB so unable to load any more. Is there a way around this ?
  23. O K - back in business. This is the bracket & tube section for the back of the pump. Can only load this pic for now so look for two more coming. The tube section was made to suit general positioning so not 100 % accurate against O E M.
  24. My pump is off getting the front seal replaced to cure fluid leak. I intend to take pics when I get it back ( today ? ? ) as this has been a problem for a while. I'll watch this thread and come back when ready. Others will probably jump in as well. All good. PKJ
  25. Yes, it does a couple of things - keeps the hose from being bent and holds it back from the heat of exhaust manifold. There is a tube section from the pump outlet, up though this bracket and the pressure hose is connected to the top end of this. Do you have this tube piece ? Very scarce ( see other posts on this topic ) Most make their own as I did. Good fun. PKJ
  • Create New...