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Everything posted by 6DUB606

  1. The black fittings you see are for PCV & emissions connections. The front stem takes a flexible tube from a canister attached to the back of the shock tower, below that support brace from the firewall. Can't see it in your pic but search through other posts & you'll find many more views. The rubber end sticking through from inside with the metal clip is for the line back to the PCV connection on the rear of the rocker cover as you suggest. Most vendors will have this rocker cover grommet but the air cleaner parts are scarce. The larger connection you are pointing to takes a flexible duct coming up from a heat riser shroud around the exhaust manifold. It may be missing - can't see far enough down in this pic. Again, search for other images of engine bay set-up. Now a side note: I am in Australia and trying to find the two air cleaner parts shown here but no success. Mike ( Motorcity ) has been down this trail with me. Anyone have these in a box of leftovers ? They are only light weight so postage should not kill me. All options considered. Have fun. PKJ
  2. Greetings from an ex N Z Mustang owner, now in Australia but working on coming " home " when the gates are open again. Looking toward the Northland area so may catch up with you & a few others. Good work on that car. Give a shout if you're chasing any parts that may be in Aust. I've been down a similar road so could send some ideas your way. Have fun. PKJ
  3. I will replace the heater core later so wouldn't be a good idea to unhook the two hoses at the firewall (If I wouldn't cut the hoses I can still use the hoses when I put the new core in.) and hook them together with a bypass U hose? I had the same problem & chose not to pull the dash apart & replace heater core. To answer your last question: I got a 5/8" 90 degree brass elbow from local parts store and connected each hose up the this. The coolant flow stays the same and hoses are there for future use as you suggest. The join is tucked under the firewall to shock tower brace so totally out of sight. You will loose some coolant in the process but hold the hoses above the engine and this will be minimal. Check the level as normal after hot / cold cycle. Problem solved ( in the short term ) Have fun.
  4. That seemed reasonably painless ? Glad it arrived unscathed. Let's know if I can help at all. From Mackay, Qld. rom Mackay, Qld.
  5. You're referring to the plastic insert pieces with honeycomb style front surface ? ? If so, there is a little Phillips head ( number 2 size ? ) self tapper on each side to secure the leg on the end of the plastic plate. It will just fit through the hole on the leg part and pick up the threads in the holes in the scoop body. Have a trial run with whatever you come up with. Go get 'em. PKJ
  6. And from an ex N Z 'er currently in Australia ( but planning to come back when the gates open again ) What part of N Z ? If you need any refs from this side of the Tasman, make the call. Stay safe. PKJ PKJ Thanks PKJ Im up north in Whangarei. Hope ya bringing your car when you come back home ! No, won't be bringing this - too much hassle with customs, ag & fish etc. Plus the cost will push it way too high. Money in the bank is easier. If any Aussi potential buyers see this, message me for more info. Looking to start the house search around your way and maybe further North. Can I message you with email address and we can keep in touch ? I'll be suffering withdrawal symptoms by then. PKJ
  7. PLEASE - no Mach 1 decals on a convertible. Too many machverts out there now.
  8. The costs of working on old cars downunder ! In a previous post, I acknowledged myself as an ex N Z 'er, now in Australia. Where in N Z are you ? I have dealt with a company in Nelson, look up usafordparts.co.nz - 'phone number shows as 64 3 540 3304 on their invoice. Might be worth a 'phone call or email before you go much further. If it helps, i will check a couple of Aust suppliers for tank & pick up / sender or provide suggestions. Now for cleaning: I did the " chain in the tank " method on '65 car by securing a piece of fabric to approx 2 feet / 300 mm of small link chain then putting this in the tank with half a bottle of kerosene. Shook it around every half hour or so over a day then emptied and let it drain overnight. Another piece of dry rag with the chain mopped up most of the residue kero and I figured it had to be better than before. A flush with a dose of regular fuel will help to shift the last of the kero & any loose bits remaining. Filters should handle what's left. Everything local is worth a try before you go further afield. Have fun in the lockdown. ::thumb:: PKJ
  9. Yep - I see where you're going. Fair point, worth a try. :goodpost: PKJ
  10. In the second line, he says he has replaced the flasher unit. My question was to establish if he changed the right one - assuming there may be two ? After that, yes, we are looking at socket contacts, bulbs, grounding, headlight switch and the list goes on. Process of elimination with easy ones first. PKJ
  11. Do you have two flasher units - one for turn signals, one for 4 way emergency ? Did you check voltage & glowing at all bulbs - front & back ? Electrickery is a sneaky beast. PKJ
  12. Thanks Mike Hope your staying in the shed with your Stang ? from what I see on the news New York is getting hammered with the virus! Roger And from an ex N Z 'er currently in Australia ( but planning to come back when the gates open again ) What part of N Z ? If you need any refs from this side of the Tasman, make the call. Stay safe. PKJ PKJ
  13. There are two rubber tubes connected to the outlets on top of the black canister. One has the vacuum signal coming in from the engine source, the other is the outlet to A / C functions via the rubber tube going through the firewall.. Mine was hooked up backwards and I copied the mistake on replacement. Sorted it by starting the engine, connected the engine side line but no reaction from the other tube. Swapped them around and, presto, slight noise as the check valve did its job then I could feel the pull of vacuum on the second tube. These check valves can fail over the years and I doubt you can pull it apart to replace. Probably have to get another canister but check it first. Have fun. PKJ
  14. Different sides of the world time zones - I'm in Australia, you're on West Coast U S A. I was responding to the question ref vac canisters on passenger side, he's also talking brake booster, driver's side. We'll sort it. Stay safe. PKJ
  15. If you have a/c, there is a small black canister as a reservoir for the vacuum. There are two rubber lines going to it - they are function specific so mark them for correct re-fit later. It has two captive bolts on the bracket with nuts inside the wheel well. This is the rear most one and lower down, so the nuts may be covered with underseal or other material build up. Remove the splash shield to make life easier. There is also the larger, blue, canister for fuel vapor recovery ( a k a " cookie jar " ) This has a band around the canister body which you can slacken off then get the can out. The band is also bolted into the wheel well and easier to get at. Sorry, no pics but you'll work it out once you start. Have fun. PKJ
  16. Yes you do. Make sure you get a good one as those springs will take your head off if they come loose. Search this site for something like " front springs " or "spring compressor tool " and you'll find some good info. Have fun. PKJ
  17. The pressure one will feel harder as it is reinforced ( generally with a wire braid. Will have one tube end bent to fit on the steering box, the other end crimped with a female thread. The return line is softer, fabric reinforced, tube end to match the pressure line steering box end, other end open to fit over the tube connection on the back of the pump. Make sure you use the smooth type clamp so you don't cut the hose. The steering box ends are a different thread size so you can't mix them up. I'm not up with cooler lines so will pass on that question. Others will be able to help here. Have fun. PKJ
  18. Hey Mark - I'm in Australia so don't take what I say as applying to U K but let's try. First up, that screw down valve in the heater hose may be replacing a failed vacuum operated valve that cut coolant flow when the a /c was turned on. Also, if you pull the glovebox door off & box out it will be much easier to get in there. There are heater hose, vac lines & a /c schematic diagrams on this site. Check them out before you go much further. The " rectangular box " in the engine bay is a " thermal expansion valve " which controls air cond refrigerant from liquid to gas phase. Someone more au fait with a / c systems can clarify that. Often referred to as a T X valve because we're basically too lazy to say the whole term. Do you know if the system is still charged ? Does it have gas under pressure ? Again, someone with a / c knowledge can check this before you open something and get hit with a pressure release. Second part of this is that a lot of countries do not permit uncontrolled escape of refrigerants due to environmental laws. If you have access to a mobile air cond center then, yes, get them involved now. You may need them further down the line and they can help you avoid some dumb & costly mistakes. You are asking the right questions, you just to get the right answers. Take your time. Have fun. PKJ
  19. When you look at the keys from the pointed end that will go into the lock cylinder, the square / ignition / door one has the cut outs on the top left, bottom right. This will match the round access hole in the doors and ignition switch tumblers. The rounded / trunk / glovebox has the cut sections on the top right, bottom left to line up the lock access. My understanding is that these are not interchangeable but there may be a way of reworking the entire mechanism ? See what others say. PKJ
  20. Like the ones on the right? Watching with interest - never seen these before. If they will lift the harness on the driver's side off the hot intake & clear throttle linkage, good idea. Any more pics of where & how they fit? How many per engine ? And the plastic part - what does that look like ? Add me to the list please Mike. PKJ
  21. " Back and forth " smells like strut rods moving ? Have you checked these for chewed out bushings, loose bolts on the lower control arms etc. ? Are the control arms themselves secure ? Can you lift the front end slightly to take the weight off the wheels and move as you describe ? You're running out of options. PKJ
  22. Be careful here: the female fitting that is in the pump now has a parallel thread. The adapter shown above is tapered. They may seal but the taper often takes up before the internal seat is secure so will leak. If you can get an adapter from the pump builder, it needs to be male SAE parallel inverted to match the pump fitting, then male SAE flare for the S tube connection. Shame they did not re - use the one that was on the pump when you sent it. Interesting but messy. :huh: PKJ
  23. Good luck. You'll find a few other posts on this topic via the search function. Not reproduced that we know of, most have made their own, not difficult. You might find a parts car option so don't give up. Do you have the locator bracket on the back of the pump ? PKJ
  24. I feel the need to defend myself here. Or if the company's on the internet made a error apologize for them. So...........You tried a fmx on a c-4 transmission bell? Or v/s? The internet says c-4 and fmx are a match ( as I copied and pasted in prior message) and I measured my fmx plate and it is exact from the #s they posted for the 2 trannys and there bells. The plate measurement #s I posted is for fitment to the Bell housing. I also took a picture of a line trace drawing with measurements. Check EBAY ITEM # 372743637875 it also states this fits both c4 and fmx looks like they sold 18 of them, I would have thought someone would have complained they didnt fit? . Mmm - you've got me now. Bought a '73 Mach 1 and didn't know what trans was in it but the plate was missing. Had the same problem with a '66 C 4 so just ordered that same type with a heap of other parts. Eventually crawled under the car to fit it - nowhere near. Later got the Marti report which showed the FMX so added that to next parts order. Perfect - all lined up. Called a local trans shop in the meantime & he told me FMX was different as I found out. Have since sold the C 4 plate so not able to check again. I will put a tape across the FMX just for interests sake ( and my future info ) and check against the drawing you show. Maybe what I got was wrong from supplier ? ? No apologies necessary but this sequence of try, fail, try again, all good, prompted my response. Good to know these things especially if passing incorrect advice to people. Apologies from my part if necessary. PKJ
  25. I made the mistake of assuming " one size fits all " - no it doesn't . Got the correct version from NPD. You will need C 4 style to suit same trans you have. See OMS reply above. He's on to it as usual. PKJ
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