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Everything posted by 6DUB606

  1. Kinda what we figured. No other visible hardware and it isn't welded in, so it must be another component that requires installation prior to the windows. And you have the heated rear window. Have a look for recent posts about being very careful when you disconnect this. There are a couple of very delicate wiring components which you will need to preserve. Take it easy.
  2. I left mine in, just masked the headliner & glass to prevent overspray & gave it a dose of satin black like everything else. Pull the sail panels as well if you haven't already done. PKJ
  3. Thanks David - the trivia is often what makes the difference. The bezel opening dimensions are 4 " wide x 2 1/4 " high with knobs @ 5 3/4 " centers. If you have an 8 track for a reasonable price I will look at it. I'm in Australia where current political nonsense has dropped the $ exchange to .67 cents, then there is shipping cost. I have possibly found a reliable stereo unit in New Zealand with the D3ZA - 19A241 number so exchange plus freight are on my side here. I'm like you - won't be listening to the radio while I'm driving but don't like the holes is the dash either. All options considered. Thanks for the response. PKJ
  4. That confirms the number is a match to what I'm looking at. Excellent info source for sure. :bravo: PKJ
  5. Well done Don C. :thankyouyellow: I can see the first bit - D3ZA so am fine so far. I'm a simple guy and struggling with the 19 A 241 . Maybe I don't need to bother with this ? It should fit the '73 radio fascia bezel, so we're all good. Agree ? Good work on the spreadsheets. My eyes are square already. PKJ
  6. Hi all. Have done a quick search with heaps of info but struggling to find exactly what I need. Need to replace the lost radio in my '73 Mach 1. Have found one with model number D3ZA - 19A241. Before I jump in, can someone please decipher the last part ? D3ZA should be '73 Mustang, what's the rest telling me ? Marti report shows 8 track in this car but stereo will do for the price involved. Brilliant site - well done all. PKJ
  7. Hi there Mark. Another '73 owner in Qld. I am in Mackay ( ex Bne 15 years ago ) Send a p.m. through it I can assist in any way. Not a convertible but the basics are the same for sure. Not a lot of parts for these models in Aust but getting better. I might be able to steer you the right direction. Also check Mustang Owners club in Bne. Have fun. PKJ
  8. There was a discussion on this topic a couple of months back. Search under your subject heading - you should find it. In summary, you will need to make tiny slits in the flat ( under ) side to push the plastic pins into. If you have the old one, put them side by side to get the positions. If not just follow the holes in top of the cowl. Don't stretch it too much. Start at one end and go easy. Have fun. PKJ
  9. I'll be doing those soon. How would you make that work? Is it a 3-way "y" fitting to replace the OEM block? Be careful with brake line fittings - your life could depend on them. For these joiners, look up SWAGELOK - they have a double ferrule style that is super strong and easy to use. I recall brake lines are 3/16" o / d standard ( yes, put a good vernier over a clean line section to check ) Probably not in your average hardware store but the website should list distributors in your area. Happy hunting. PKJ
  10. Thank you. Nothing was bagged and tagged when I bought the 73. Every nut, bolt and screw, etc was in a big bin. Slowly working out where things go. David Hi David. I'm in Mackay, just a few hours North. Have similar car but H code & still LHD. Will trade you 'phone numbers & email if I can help. Good work so far - interesting project. PKJ
  11. Thanks for the info, I have no clue on this car, I just liked the colour and Bought it lollerz Did I do any research, NO! What should the Oil pressure be on these cars? Where should the Gauge be? If you mean " where would the gauge needle be pointing ", I had the same question a few weeks back. Answer in general terms: around mid point at cold start and drop to approx above the O when hot. Approx 90 psi initially, down to 75 psi when running. May also depend on the type of oil you are using. Some good info on this site so do a further search. Interesting car - stick with it. PKJ
  12. Yah - another Aussi in this year bracket. Your bio shows " Northeast Australia " - I'm in Mackay, Qld. Looks like mining camp cabins in the background ? Keep up the good work. PKJ
  13. That's the lowest point so look a bit higher first. I had similar problem & found the return line hose clamp loose. Wipe it all down, go for a drive then let it sit for a while with paper on the floor. Yes, could be the front seal or something more serious but tightening a loose fitting is easy. Hope it's that simple. PKJ
  14. I had similar problem from fitting after - market mounts. Used a white marker to note where the fan blades were hitting and trimmed the shroud to suit. Was only approx 1/2" in from the edge and maybe 5" - 6" total length at the very bottom as the engine sat slightly lower. Cutting plastic is easy and beats the hell out of modifying or shimming motor mounts. Doesn't seem to have effected cooling in any way. Maybe worth a look ? PKJ
  15. Work backwards - put the ignition key to ON ( don't start the engine ) Slide the shifter back & forth through the reverse position and see if you have reverse lights at any point. Might be the neutral safety switch or linkage out of alignment. If no lights, there's your next clue - no power getting back there. May be sockets, may be not. From this point it could get complicated. If you're O K with elec - trickery, go through the obvious test light / multi meter checks. NSS is available from most suppliers but I wouldn't buy one until you prove the source of the problem. Others more au fait with this will add more info. Yes, the white lights come on with trans selector in reverse. No. Reverse lights & brake are two separate things, you don't have to be in reverse for brake lights to come on. No, you don't have to rev the engine. Stick with it. PKJ
  16. There will possibly be specific dimension details here but you can just go by eye. Assume you are using a decal kit ? Find some good car images to follow. The front part lines up around the side marker light. Rear MACH 1 section sits just above the crease line of the lower door panel - maybe 5/8" approx ? Middle sections are now a direct line from these two points. I saw a good Youtube on this but can't tell you where I found it. I got a commercial signwriter company to fit mine as I don't trust myself to not stuff it up. Yes, they charged me ( like 2 1/2 hours work in total ) but they had all the gear and just followed the Mustang Monthly article of the same car. It's a challenge for sure. Others here will provide further info. Makes all the difference to a car that just looks right when it's done. Good work. PKJ
  17. Yup - belt tension or mis-alignment ? Interesting only at that speed. I had similar problem & found that a smear of talcum powder on the inside of the belt solved it but you'll possibly need to repeat occasionally as it wears off. Rub the powder on all the exposed surfaces of the belt between each pulley. Hope it's that easy. PKJ
  18. I'd be checking that real quick ! If you don't know about the " floor clicker " or if you even have one, there could be exposed wires under the carpet. Not good ! The dimmer switch - aka floor clicker - has a direct plug connection and, yes, that is the nifty red high beam warning light. If the switch is not there, get one from nearest supplier and fit it s .a .p. This may also be why your headlights don't work. Some investigating to be done. Pull the carpet back & have a look. PKJ
  19. Hello Mr Static. I went through the same thing for missing spring on driver's side. Tried a few of the " parts cars " guys here but no joy. Ended up getting a complete used hinge and pulling the spring off ( carefully, it's under tension ). And there's a challenge getting it back on, assuming the door is still fitted ? I can try to explain what I did if it helps. If David can find one, good for you. A couple of the others may chime in also. Good luck for the OCD cure. I know the feeling. PKJ
  20. Without upsetting many, I go with the slightly turned down exit tips as shown in the chassis drawing etc. The last 18" is 304 brushed stainless welded to the main pipework so doesn't tarnish, just needs a scrub with steel wool & thinners. It protrudes slightly beyond the valance to avoid black exhaust contamination but not running rich ( for now ). It's only 2 1/4" system so fairly tame compared to some I hear. To each his own PKJ
  21. Cut a very small hole to get one side of the T end through, then stretch it carefully to get the other side in. Put the old & new side by side to get the locations correct. When you put the new one back, start at the middle and alternate left to right for the rest. If the old one is still on the car, remove the two cowl vents so you can reach in for the stem end of the clips and push them out carefully. From memory ( foggy at best ) there are little tabs either side which you need to squeeze together to release these ends. If you do break one, then go to double sided tape as a last resort. Good fun. PKJ Edit: I should have looked at the CJP link first. New clips supplied so no problem if you break one but keep as spares anyway. Rest of my message still stands.
  22. I'd have someones head for the errors in my name ! ! Got it correct in the top heading then totally fluffed in the text. Go get 'em David . PKJ
  23. can you show me pic of the one you made for your 73 Fabrice ? I'm curious now.... Steve that's a nice steering wheel. Maybe some more pics of folks' replacement steering wheels to get me thinking.... meantime, i have to send mine off to get repaired.... I inherited one that should have been in a golf buggy. Bought a used two spoke much the same as you have plus the bits to rebuild it. What type of repairs does it need ? They're not difficult to fix - search this forum. To get past the skinny feel and add more grip, I fitted a fake leather wrap around cover. Had a similar set - up on another old car and worked well. Good fun. PKJ
  24. Ahh - gotcha now. I thought you were on to the Mexican car. If you zoom in on the 2 spoke pics above, you'll see the ridged section is at the bottom with running horse emblem sitting correctly. Same comment applies ref the central alignment notch which will put it all in the right place. Sorry for confusion. PKJ
  25. What is the correct orientation for this wheel. One side of he wheel is smooth and the other has ridges. I've always put the ridges at 6 o'clock, at the bottom. But a lot of the driving time is with one hand around 12 o'clock with my thump where the ridges would be if I oriented them at 12 o'clock. Which I think would feel better. :chin: I honestly can't remember how the wheel was oriented when I bought it, I don't know if that would have been correct anyway. I'm pretty sure that the wheel can be put in either way. thanks These 3 spoke wheels have the middle one at 6 o'clock, straight up & down. Get the front wheels pointing straight ahead before you pull the steering wheel. There should be a small notch at top center ( 12 o'clock ) which you need to align with a similar mark on the steering shaft for " straight ahead ". If it's off first time you drive it, wheel alignment should fix this. My understanding is that the horn center caps are very touchy so do your homework first. I had one of these to start with but replaced with a two spoke as shown above. Easy fix with correct parts. PKJ
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