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6DUB606

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Everything posted by 6DUB606

  1. Excellent info - thanks to all respondents. So a 50% drop from cold start to running temp ( 70 psi down to 35 ) should be safe providing that's what the pump is putting out. I'll keep an eye on it but not panic in the meantime. Well done. PKJ
  2. Am I over-reacting ? Given the notorious unreliability of old gauges, at cold start up, the " OIL " needle sits approx halfway on the scale. When running at full temp & 30 mph, drops to approx 1/4 position ( has lost half along the way ) I'm told this is due to oil thinning out under heat so no problem with pump etc. Using Valvoline 20W-50 mineral oil which fits recommendations on this forum. Recently changed + new filter, reads O K on the dipstick. Oil is getting to the rockers as I had weeping after replacing old cork gaskets with Felpro - now fixed. Pressure sender replaced at the same time. Before I get involved in fitting a temporary mechanical gauge, tee connections etc, any opinions here please. What is " normal " pressure in P S I ? If it drops by half when hot, is this a problem with engine lubrication ? I'm used to 289 / 302's which went to 1/2 and stayed there. I've done a quick search for info here but nothing that helps. Apologies if I missed the obvious. Many thanks. PKJ
  3. I'm with you ref the steering wheel. Burns me up when people do this, just because they can in some cases. O K, others choose to do it - it's your car, do what you like - but keep the old parts for the next owner. I just put the thick end of $500 into replacing a golf buggy wheel in my '73 with the period correct two spoke. Now I'm looking at $100 for the washer fluid container. Wheels & tires you can buy anywhere - other parts not so easy. PKJ
  4. Did they show you the leak ? " Passenger side tube " could be a brake line connection. I'd be going back with a " more information Grasshopper " question then you know what you're dealing with. PKJ
  5. By " under the bumper " are you referring to the licence plate bracket ? or the bolts that hold the steel frame to the urethane section ? There are a couple of access holes in the main steel frame. Way up inside these are ( 4 ? ) bolts that attach the urethane part to an inner mounting plate. You will need a long extension to reach these. Spray some CRC or similar penetrant on them and give it time to work. All kinds of sneaky things to provide more challenges. PKJ
  6. My understanding is that the hinges work on a kind of cantilevered principle so good idea to help by pulling toward you and up to open, push slightly back & down to close. There's a fair bit of weight to avoid twisting as well so I use both hands placed either side of the latch to spread the load. Hinges: again, info on here suggests the flat surfaced springs were used for hoods with the ram - air plenum fitted to counteract the extra weight - possibly greater tension strength. Others have two round style & ram air with no problems. I have one of each - dah ? In summary, my .02 is that you're fine - just go easy on it. PKJ
  7. Yup - " right price " is what someone else will pay. You're in there. But I'm confused: I DO HAVE a '73 Mach 1, ram air, factory a/c, 351 C, FMX, 9" rear diff. chrome 15" Magnums all 'round. I DO NOT have a young girl in tow or a small dog ( or two ) Where have I gone wrong ? PKJ :huh:
  8. Hi Steve - getting to the small stuff is a good feeling. I'm not smart enough to take & upload pics in a hurry but took some measurements.. The shorter one is the front - I got approx 1125 mm along the outer rounded edge. Leading end is approx square cut, rear end has the rounded part slightly longer than inner notched section. Other one approx 1130 so 50 mm / 2 " difference as noted above Are there any original screw holes to help you get started ? If not, align the front end of the front trim at the top of the stone guard where it meets the fender. And a tip: get the top one or two screws in first to reduce the amount of flex as you go. These things will fight you all the way and bend easily. I used a couple of big bulldog clips & small vise grip to hold the ends in place as I worked around and did alternate front & back screws. Hope this makes sense - come back if not. Good work. PKJ Edit - revised math ! Longer ( rear ) approx 1135 so approx 10 mm difference. Apologies - it's a Monday thing. Thanks PKJ I have been trying to upload a photo I took on my phone but it kept failing so I just realised it was 7mb big so wouldnt upload. I have just downsized it and hopefully it attaches. O K - now we're cookin' . Top image is the front, square cut end ( on the right ) is the front start point where the fender meets the stone guard. When I got my trims, they had close to correct bend profile but yours may have been lost in the powder coating work. Just follow the wheel arch curve and work it fastener by fastener as you go. Repeat: start at the top go side to side. PKJ
  9. Cool thanks. So do we know if the flat end of the shorter trim goes towards the front of the wheel arch or the back? Hi Steve - getting to the small stuff is a good feeling. I'm not smart enough to take & upload pics in a hurry but took some measurements.. The shorter one is the front - I got approx 1125 mm along the outer rounded edge. Leading end is approx square cut, rear end has the rounded part slightly longer than inner notched section. Other one approx 1130 so 50 mm / 2 " difference as noted above Are there any original screw holes to help you get started ? If not, align the front end of the front trim at the top of the stone guard where it meets the fender. And a tip: get the top one or two screws in first to reduce the amount of flex as you go. These things will fight you all the way and bend easily. I used a couple of big bulldog clips & small vise grip to hold the ends in place as I worked around and did alternate front & back screws. Hope this makes sense - come back if not. Good work. PKJ Edit - revised math ! Longer ( rear ) approx 1135 so approx 10 mm difference. Apologies - it's a Monday thing.
  10. I don't see anything dramatically wrong here other than the bend at the top ? Easy fix - pull that last section out a bit further, grab it with pliers or vice grips just below the bend and move the bent piece straight with another set of pliers. It's in the right place so that's a good start. Paint scratches ? Different story. PKJ
  11. Yup - that's what I was scared of ! In the short term I will bypass & join the two hoses back near the firewall so generally out of sight. Understand that it may impact cooling to some extent but so be it. No coolant showing on the floor ( yet ! ) so this will avoid potential if it totally fails. Thanks for your advice too David - I've already put fly screen mesh under the cowl vents to stop leaves & rubbish getting it there. Thanks troops - a job for another day. PKJ
  12. I feel some bad news coming - there is a trace of green antifreeze mixed in with condensate dripping under the car after A / C running. Does this suggest the heater core is leaking and draining into the housing box cavity ? The coolant level has dropped a bit too. No sign of leaks under the hood at heater hose connections and it is back where the drain line comes out. I see a couple of good threads covering removal of the entire heater & A C system but any better ideas before I go further. All good fun. :huh: PKJ
  13. Mon Dieu ! I had the same set - up on the '73 I bought. They have fitted the spoiler underneath the bumper - should be on the metal stone guard. Search this site for front spoiler fitting instructions, it's brilliant. I took mine all apart to tidy up the whole front section and re -fitted according to the measurements given on this forum. Worked out perfect. The fact that you seem to have all good condition parts is a bonus. It will be fine when fixed correctly. PKJ
  14. Steve - Can you pull / push the cable from inside the car to prove that it is moving freely ? Could be twisted or jammed underneath. If it's ratcheting O K without the load, the problem would seem to be the cable set up. You mention new tension spring but you should be able to move the cable back & forth to mirror this action to start with. The W o F guys probably need to test it so an explanation may not satisfy them. Dig a bit deeper first. Good work. PKJ
  15. Seems like it's the remnants of the old o'ring. If you are staying with Freon 12 refrigerant, just replace it with a standard oil resistant o'ring. If changing to 134a set - up, you'll need Viton rings on all these ends - usually pale green. When you put them on, smear a little silicon based oil and roll them on around the edges - don't try to stretch all at once. Start all the connections to " finger tight " then wriggle the tube in so it seats square before you tighten it fully. Use a tube wrench - not your normal open ended one. Have fun. PKJ
  16. Hi David. Been a while since I did this but a couple of things are still with me. Yes, there are two screws at the base of the seat back section, kind of buried underneath. And the flat section at the very back has four screws - two across the back near the trapdoor hinge and two in the front corners which locate into little clips underneath. Only reason I mention this is that I spent an hour trying to figure out why I couldn't lift the back section and finally discovered these screws within the carpet fibers. Amazing what you might find underneath. Good work. PKJ
  17. I love dumb replies - this is exactly what I have done. Depends on the phases of the moon as well. I just ignore it now. Sometimes just comes on during normal driving, other times, nobody home. :shootself: PKJ
  18. This is the first connection from the washer pump to left side windscreen nozzle. The screw fits in a hole under the rear ( windscreen ) edge of the hood. Incoming tube from the pump goes to one of the straight through nipples, the other side of this goes across to the right hand side nozzle. The outlet at the screw hooks up to the left side nozzle. Look for other posts about this or just study engine bay images carefully - you will often see this in the background. PKJ
  19. That's only half of the firewall connection. It has four outlets, two each side. There should be an identical section to the right of the screw in the middle of the plastic piece. Look at a vacuum schematic to see where the tube connections go. This manifold connection will ( should ? ) be available through the parts suppliers. See more info on this site as well. The windscreen washer is a totally different set up. The nozzles mount right up under the back ( windscreen ) end of the hood ( bonnet ) There have been other posts on this as well. The bottle with pump are many $$ genuine or NOS. You can buy aftermarket versions but check that your wiper / washer switches work first. Keep digging - it's all here in various forms. Even some of the engine bay pics will show what you need by default. PKJ
  20. Thanks Jim. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress with Ebay insurance. Looking good so far. Thank God I insisted the guy do the transaction through Ebay. If I had bought the car outside of Ebay or on Craigslist there would be zero chance of getting my money back. I'm intrigued by the bogus Washington State document as the title evidence. Surely rates up there with counterfeit passports & fake driver's licences. I would have thought that Government departments would be interested in the fraudulent use of their logo, bar code & numbering structure etc. And the ability to alter the images of those old door tag numbers. Who do you trust ? PKJ
  21. Dig a bit deeper on this site. There was a discussion just a few weeks back with responses showing measurements from front edge of door to first screw, top edge down to the base mount position etc. I don't recall the site members or thread title but someone else possibly does. PKJ
  22. I took all the steel pieces out, cleaned, neutralized all the rusty bits then re-painted chassis black. Chased the all the threads and pre - assembled it to make sure it was O K then tighten up when you're happy. When all back together, it is heavy ( as you already know ) so be careful with the flexible ends as the paint will crack. I set mine up on two boxes close to the correct position left & right then got a floor jack under it to lift into place. Careful, careful - don't drop it now. This will allow you to reach the four remaining bolts behind the mounting brackets and get them started. Get each one in a few threads and pull them tight when it's all lined up with the lower fenders. There is a fair bit of adjustment with the slotted bracket holes so you can align it correctly. Same with the fender to lower valance positioning - you might need to loosen these up to get final alignment. Took me half a day to get it reasonable. Go for it. PKJ
  23. Confirm this. Hoses should be O K ( see note below ) but new O'rings ( generally light green, Viton material ) will need to go on all end connections. The last component is the T X valve on the engine side of the firewall. All under dash items are metallic Be aware also that there is a vacuum controlled tap in the inlet heater hose. It is actuated from inside and will restrict the hot water flow to the heater core when the A / C is turned on. You will see all this in a vacuum schematic diagram. Worth a look before you start. I am in Australia and regs require flexible lines with nylon tube to avoid permeation of gas through old style rubber hoses. You may want to check this out with an A / C installation service agent so you don't have to do it twice. Dig out some Youtube videos on the procedure to run a full vacuum test before you try to re - gas it. Mine looked all good but the T X valve was jammed closed. Have fun. PKJ
  24. Bob, I should have all three of those. Let me run down the garage tomorrow and get you a picture. Bob, Here is a picture of the door handle bracket, spring and the white washer that goes behind the window crank. I wish I had known this six months ago - before I chopped the door panel cups and drilled the handles to fix this problem. Mr Motor City Mustangs - how do I contact you without opening an ebay account ? Do you have direct email ? Need to ask you about the two of these bracket pieces plus other bits also. PKJ
  25. Yup - you got it. Don't make the same mistake i did: the spring clips on the bracket are fitted in from either side, not down from top or up from underneath. I got 3 correct and one wrong way round so the thread on the bolt would not pick up the captive nut. Took me three " take it off, put it back " to figure it out. I'm a slow learner ! PKJ :shootself:
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