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6DUB606

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Everything posted by 6DUB606

  1. Hi from a fellow N. Z.'er ( now Aussi ) I had a similar problem with these plates all bent out of shape. You can get what I recall is known as a " disc brake re-build kit ". It will ( should ) have the two cover plates plus all new bolts, the rubber anti - rattle grommets and some other bits I can't remember. It's not expensive and will give you all new stuff. Try that Mustang Centre in Ch. Ch. ( used to be in Auck but sold out to these guys ) I have a September Petrolhead mag which has a 'phone number of 03 3813 289. If you don't have any success, come back and I'll point you to a couple of Aussi suppliers with stock code numbers, prices etc. Good work on this job of yours. Nearly as challenging as Fabrice. PKJ Cheers mate I had only priced one part (trunk drop panel) previously through the CHCH crowd but for a $14 USD part they wanted $100 nzd plus freight so got it sent to a colleagues hotel in the US and he chucked it in his suitcase. I'll price the kit from there but I see Hemikiller has posted some links to Rock Auto so I'll see what the US prices are. Thanks for replying to my post. Yep first car project do am floundering a bit trying to get it ready and complied before Beach Hop end of March. Hopefully engine startup end of this week. Cheers Steve Absolutely - do your homework. For your info: Brisbane source has price of AU $ 99.00 for two complete sets ( both sides ) but " no stock " at this time. Could change tomorrow if next container arrives. Sydney supplier has price of AU $39.15 per side but no image to check components although he does include a Ford part number. Both call them " disc brake hardware kit ". Understand the US prices versus arrival at your door. I allow factor of 3 ( US $100 = AU $300 ) by the time I get it. AU $ + postage may help ? All the best. PKJ
  2. These would be made as a long strip of extruded material which is cut to a pre-determined length then butt-joined at the cut ends. This join is right through the extrusion, not just one side or the other. Somewhere in the packaging or supplier notes is the detail about being supplied inside out & needs to be turned for installation. It can't be joined incorrectly - the profile dictates the shape. As noted, Scott Drake is an agent / supplier for thousands of parts and a lot of the rubber components etc are Daniel Carpenter products. I got my seal in a plastic bag with two labels - Scott Drake & D. C. part numbers. It fits spot on. Was tight initially but half hour lying out in the sun ( I'm in Queensland, Australia ) and no problems. Take a deep breath and have another look. Stick with it. PKJ
  3. Hi from a fellow N. Z.'er ( now Aussi ) I had a similar problem with these plates all bent out of shape. You can get what I recall is known as a " disc brake re-build kit ". It will ( should ) have the two cover plates plus all new bolts, the rubber anti - rattle grommets and some other bits I can't remember. It's not expensive and will give you all new stuff. Try that Mustang Centre in Ch. Ch. ( used to be in Auck but sold out to these guys ) I have a September Petrolhead mag which has a 'phone number of 03 3813 289. If you don't have any success, come back and I'll point you to a couple of Aussi suppliers with stock code numbers, prices etc. Good work on this job of yours. Nearly as challenging as Fabrice. PKJ
  4. Mr Batwrangler. You'll find numerous threads on this topic. Search " Ram air ". In general terms, the flappers ( swing vents ) work off the vacuum from the engine. Not running = no vacuum = flaps open. Engine on ( normal idle ) = normal vacuum = flaps " sucked " closed. Mash the pedal = low vacuum = flaps open up for " ram air " effect providing greater air flow into the carb. The hose you referred to earlier has a T connection in to one of the vacuum lines at the back of the intake manifold but NOT the line to the transmission modulator. Look for schematics when you do the topic search. Be careful with the final height of the carb when you put the rubber seal on top. I have a spacer under the carb of my car and the hood won't close. I've put a thin strip of adhesive backed foam around the underside of the plenum opening to match the top of the circular air cleaner profile. Just put the rubber seal back on to look good when we open it up. Hope this helps. PKJ
  5. A few shots of my " down under " example. May need to photo-shop highlight glare. PKJ 6DUB606 - Queensland, Australia. 1973 Mach 1, H code.
  6. Ref your A / C question: I am in Australia but this is what I went through - searched for local A / C places and went in person to 3. This gave me a look at the shop and get to eyeball people I would deal with. Professional presentation & customer service go a long way. Agreed that I would remove the accessible parts, take these in for check & damage report. When returned, I would re-fit to the car and bring it back for system check & gas it up when driveable. 4 months later ( it wasn't urgent, I had other things to do ) compressor was cracked inside ( AU $500 for new ) condenser checked O K, new dryer & flexible lines to suit 134 a refrigerant. Make sure they will re-use the OEM bent tube sections to the condenser & dryer. Took all home, cleaned & refitted as arranged. Replace the drive belt but don't connect the wiring to the clutch yet. Needed new tap in the top heater hose & vac switch inside. A tip here: remove the glove box door & liner, lower instrument section & console for easier access. When on the road, back in for preliminary vac test - failed due to T X valve blocked. Shop replaced this and all working now. Controls behind the panel are not 100 % but it blows cold air from the center & side vents. That will do me. All up cost AU $1500. I figured functional factory a / c has a resale value and it's on the car so let's make it do its job. Hope you have enough parts to salvage as I did. Check that idler pulley in front - mine was making a horrible noise ( crapped out bearing ) All the best. PKJ
  7. I'm in Qld. Aust. What do you mean by " hood scoop pins " ? Are they the hood lock - down pins sometimes used instead of the twist lock style as fitted with the blacked out paint option ? Can you find a picture to compare ? PKJ
  8. I had similar problems where a few of the plugs I needed were not in standard kits. Found all kinds of rubbery bits at a local store that has products for above ground pools, extrusions for household door & window weather seals etc. A bonus was also grommets for protection of wiring going through holes punched in sheet metal panels and foam strip material with adhesive backing. There must be something in your part of the world ?
  9. Yup - that fits. I colleague suggested maybe from Mercury Marauder or Cyclone so we're in the ballpark. I like the Torino option too. Thanks for this reply.
  10. Yes - it's a '73 ( VIN 3F05H155490 ) DSO on Marti report is 92 = Export via Newark N J. After that ? who knows. Had a California plate from 2016 when I got it. I see a follow up response to the engine question also. Appreciate all this good info.
  11. Continuing where I left off - P O 's did me a few favors like Magnum 500 wheels and what has been described as a 7 1/2 out of 10 paint job. Not sure what the color is - may be Gold Glow or Medium Copper - or just something that got the painter's attention ? They also left me some surprises - a very sad FMX that needed a serious cash injection and some dodgy floor repairs which needed attention. My plan was to restore / reuse as much of the genuine parts as possible. Repair / replace what needed to be done, use repop items when all else failed or these would do the job and simply live with the rest ( such as the blacked out hood section & locking pins ) Marti shows this as being " Blue Glow metallic " and ordered as a T 5 through the FORD retail sales division. It has been used & abused over time but I see much worse on this forum. This is the mixture of goodies up front. And the interior with a steering wheel from a golf buggy ? Some may like it - please don't be offended. Note exhaust chopped off too short, rear valance off the mark, no infill piece at the bumper ends. The engine is a 351 C transplant but runs fine. Number on back of the block behind left side head reads 2A2030308. Any ideas where this may have come from ? They've dropped a 4 V intake with an old Autolite carb but I can live with these. I took off all the basic bits, cleaned it up & re-sprayed closer to the correct color. And this is progress at approx two months back. Massive assistance from local Mustang owners and sources such as this forum. I found out things I didn't know I didn't know ( like the lock washer behind the remote mirror control knob ) More up to date pictures shortly.
  12. This to establish that I am now a registered user ::thumb:: New member from Australia. This is what I bought back in September 2017. - note incorrect spoiler fitment, painted side stripes etc. Will post more pics of latest appearance once I prove that I am able to do so. Watch this space.
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