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Everything posted by downwardspiral

  1. Finally figured out how the stupid clutch helper spring comes out on my 73 mach 1 and did the gymnastics to actually do it. I am more excited than I should be because I have tried 3 or 4 times over the last few months and gave up, since I couldn't position myself in way that I could see anything. I need a lift.... Just waiting on heavier coilover springs tomorrow and hopefully it will be driving better than ever.
  2. I just got an OTC 7311A from Amazon and it worked like a charm. Granted I already cut it up and doused it in PB but from the time the package was delivered I had it off in about 5 minutes. One good shot with my impact gun and it was off. The side to side bolts were key IMO, the cheapos from Autozone just bent apart and slipped off the pitman arm. The snap-on piece definitely looks more solid but hopefully I won't need another one.
  3. Did a bunch of cursing, throwing tools, busting knuckles and almost got my pitman arm off. :atomic: I will be getting my 3rd pitman arm puller, this one has cross bolts so the stupid thing doesn't keep slipping off. I will finish cutting into it tommorow and I'll get the new tool Saturday. This is probably the worst job I've done on this car and I've done almost everything else lol. It's seized on there so good I'm not sure there will be splines left if I ever get it off. I'm going slow with the cutting and chiseling away thin sections when I'm close to the shaft. Got one chunk out so far and it got dark and I had enough. Used a whole can of PB blaster so far too.
  4. Glad I could help, good luck! That's good info, and looks good too! I only really dusted the bare metal area with paint because I was concerned that a good coat of paint would glue up all the parts that should only take a fraction of a pound to move. I didn't really get a picture of my pedal when it was all out whack, but the pawl was completely disengaged from its housing on one side. I could pretty much press it in and out of alignment with my finger and it was just a murphy's law thing to me. It's mechanically limited now so I would need to bash it with a hammer in order to get it to misalign.
  5. I've owned my car for almost half my life now, and the emergency brake has never seemed to hold. I even replaced the pedal years back and it still just popped out whenever I stomped it down. It's been parked in flat garages for years, but now it is an issue because I failed inspection lol. After a quick analysis it seems that the pawl that locks against the "geared" tooth on the pedal slipped out on one side and was crooked. Whenever any kind of load was applied to the pedal the ratcheting mechanism was defeated as if the release handle was pulled. In order to fix this I welded a plate to limit the pawl's side to side travel. It seems to be holding even when I pull on the pedal, so I'm pretty happy for the $0 and 15 minutes I just spent. The problem- This guy (pawl in a ratchet mechanism) was falling into the V shaped slot and riding crooked on the "gear" of the pedal. The solution- cut a small plate out of scrap sheet metal using tin snips and weld in place to keep the pawl centered over the gear. I'm obviously not a welder but it works! I just needed to tweak the clearance by bending the plate slightly with a screwdriver to allow the pawl to move freely.
  6. There was a good video from engine masters* on air cleaner theory.. The filter top seems to be great because the air is already traveling at a high velocity in the direction it needs to go (down into the carb throat). They ran a literal salad bowl with just a filter top and it was at the top of the performance spectrum of their comparison. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkpsydS8JXI
  7. Got my new fuel injector early and let it idle a little bit. [video=youtube]
  8. Started it up briefly. I have a leaking fuel injector so I won't really get to run it until Wednesday. [video=youtube]
  9. It looks like a mess but I'm going to try to start it up tomorrow for the first time with on the new engine. Once it runs I will go back and clean up the wiring and everything else about this picture that is bothering me.
  10. We're getting some nice weather this week so I got my fuel system together. I ran new 3/8 NiCopp hardlines from the new tanks inc. in-tank pump setup and replaced the -8 pushlock I was running all around with -6. I spent today trying to figure out the whacky setup that holds my fuel rails down but finally got it. Now I just need to install the exhaust pipes, install the power steering pump, the radiator, connect the rest of the wiring and mount the battery. I keep saying it will run soon but I mean it this time lol. There's so many things I'm coming across that I really don't like and I'm taking the time to fix. I already revised the squiggly return line in the picture with a cleaner 45º hose end and a bit shorter hose. This was a "pull the engine and replace the bearings in a weekend" deal and is turning into a full restoration :shootself:
  11. Dropped the engine in on Saturday, ran into some issues as expected (My Sachs clutch kit came with 2 wrong pilot bearings). It's in though, have a little bit more to do and it's like 20º now so I'm not really rushing to drive it.
  12. I feel like there's too many nice examples in this thread to single anyone out, really enjoying it! :coolphotos:
  13. I'll probably tell people it's an olds motor for fun. That'd be a nice surprise, I hope you're right haha. My injectors will only support 500 hp though, I should be able to get an idea from the duty cycle they run at.
  14. Just some bolt ons :whistling: It shouldn't be anything special though, just a 10:1 aussie headed street-ish motor with a solid roller. Hoping to make 400 hp or so just under 7000 rpm. Thanks, I hope it works lol
  15. The math checks out ::thumb:: What's the compression of the stockish 429? The simplest (on paper) ways would be more bang in the cylinders either by running the thinnest head gasket you can for a compression bump or getting a cheap nitrous kit. A small nitrous shot (<100 shot) is relatively safe on any engine, especially if you have less compression than desirable (I would assume you are in the 8-9 static CR range based on the ET).
  16. I believe those are 73 they are different and the vert is different from coupe and fastback also in 73. The 73 mount cannot separate and the engine roll over trapped by metal. They are 73, I have to double check that they are for a fastback but they look just like my old set.
  17. Found some motor mounts for cheap on ebay and they turned out to be in great shape. They were being sold as 71-73 mounts so I figured the seller didn't realize they were rare. You can still see the ford logo in the rubber and they are solid. I am considering rebuilding my loose set with polyurethane just to see how hard it would be.
  18. That's pretty aggressive on the lift, and I'm not sure what lift the duration is measured at. It could potentially be extremely agressive if it's @.050 lol. You'd definitely need a good spring that doesn't go solid at that lift, and most likely some kind of vacuum pump to run power brakes. I don't think it's a "cruiser" cam, it'll sound really cool if you have some compression but you probably won't see power until 4-5000 RPM up to 8k or so. It's also worth mentioning that if you're not already running a solid roller, you might be spending $700+ on just the lifters if you want them to last. I sure did :(
  19. Got my new fuel tank setup for the Tanks Inc. in-tank setup. I 3d printed a drill jig for the vent opening since my 3" hole saw melted when I tried to use it on steel. I think I accidentally hardened the steel in another project lol. I was having issues with my argon tank and ended up just welding with flux core because I wont have a chance to get a new tank until next week. It looks hideous before I cleaned it up but worked good. Man do I suck with a hammer and dolly too, took me quite a while to get to something marginally acceptable. Took me the better part of Sunday with a trip to home depot in between. All I really need to do now is have bosses welded to my intake manifold so I can bolt the fuel rails down. I am using some convoluted clamp setup that I have never liked. I'd like to also run a smaller hard line under the car because I am using -8 pushlock now and don't feel comfortable with it. I'm having a really hard time finding engine mounts, I might just end up fabricating a set. I like what Jason at autoedit did (@1:28): https://youtu.be/bNnukhEMQbo?t=1m28s looks like he just welded a 1/4" steel riser to the frame side mount.
  20. Installed new brakes and steering linkage. I'm trying to source motor mounts and an in tank fuel pump setup. I'm getting close to dropping the engine in. I think I'll start a build thread once it's together.
  21. https://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstorefront/federalmogul/en/USD/Engine/Cylinder-Block-Components/PSTON-EnginePiston/Sealed-Power-Cast-Piston-(Carton-of-8)/p/P425NP30#.WbxYYLKGOUl I used these, about 8cc. On my engine they also gave me .030 deck height which dropped the compression a bit more from what I expected. I'm at 9.9 static compression with a 62cc head and .027 cometic gasket on a .030 over block.
  22. Finally felt comfortable with my rocker geometry. Ended up using the 90º at half lift method. I marked a line connecting the centerlines of the rocker trunion and roller shaft and aligned it to the parallel with the valve retainer. I then screwed the poly lock in by 1/2 of my gross lift (.606 lift /2 = .303) The rocker stud is 20 TPI so each revolution would be .050, so I went 6 turns plus a hair to get .303. I did this with an 8.425" long pushrod which was not contacting the rocker at this point. I used a dial indicator to measure the slack between the rocker arm and the tip of the pushrod and came up with .125". I happened to have a 8.550 long pushrod and repeated the process with that one. I put my dial indicator on the valve retainer and rotated the engine to 1/2 lift with everything installed. I took a picture and drew a line in my CAD program and it is only 1º off from perfect which is close enough for me. Ordered the pushrods and will get them Wednesday. There's not left much to do besides install the oil pan and intake manifold at this point. This picture is my rocker geometry at half lift ::thumb:: :
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