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Posts posted by downwardspiral

  1. Finally figured out how the stupid clutch helper spring comes out on my 73 mach 1 and did the gymnastics to actually do it. I am more excited than I should be because I have tried 3 or 4 times over the last few months and gave up, since I couldn't position myself in way that I could see anything. I need a lift....


    Just waiting on heavier coilover springs tomorrow and hopefully it will be driving better than ever. 




    Get a Snap-on CJ119B and don’t look back.


    I just got an OTC 7311A from Amazon and it worked like a charm. Granted I already cut it up and doused it in PB but from the time the package was delivered I had it off in about 5 minutes. One good shot with my impact gun and it was off. The side to side bolts were key IMO, the cheapos from Autozone just bent apart and slipped off the pitman arm. The snap-on piece definitely looks more solid but hopefully I won't need another one. 


  3. Did a bunch of cursing, throwing tools, busting knuckles and almost got my pitman arm off.  :atomic:

    I will be getting my 3rd pitman arm puller, this one has cross bolts so the stupid thing doesn't keep slipping off. I will finish cutting into it tommorow and I'll get the new tool Saturday. This is probably the worst job I've done on this car and I've done almost everything else lol. It's seized on there so good I'm not sure there will be splines left if I ever get it off. I'm going slow with the cutting and chiseling away thin sections when I'm close to the shaft. Got one chunk out so far and it got dark and I had enough. Used a whole can of PB blaster so far too.


  4. Thanks for the info. I have the same issue and purchased a new pedal assembly that I need to put in. I will make this mod prior to installing.

    Glad I could help, good luck!


    One thing that might contribute to improper operation is painting the assembly. Ford did not paint anything but part of the foot pedal. They used phosphate coating instead of paint. Ford used phosphate on parts they wanted to have rust protection without the possibility of the paint making parts stick or not work properly. The phosphate coating also gets inside areas where paint cannot. The parts with phosphate excluding fasteners are as follows.

    Emergency brake mechanism

    Gas pedal

    Hood Latch

    Hood hinges

    Shock mounts on shock towers.

    You can get the phosphate online and you can do yourself but you will need a stainless steel container large enough to contain your parts. I found that one of the serving trays or Turkey roasting pan is large enough to get the hood hinges in. You do need to remove the springs from the hinges so you can check movement by hand. You will also need a heat source, hot plate or gas burner and do the work outside. You should glass bead the parts this gives a surface finish that is also better to not stick. Make sure all grease is off the parts or nothing will happen. After you phosphate coat then you spray with rust preventative several times and install. I did put small amount of Red N Tacky grease on couple sliding surfaces on the brake.

    Here is picture of one before and after re coating. Pics were taken at low resolution so not so great.



    That's good info, and looks good too! I only really dusted the bare metal area with paint because I was concerned that a good coat of paint would glue up all the parts that should only take a fraction of a pound to move.

    I didn't really get a picture of my pedal when it was all out whack, but the pawl was completely disengaged from its housing on one side. I could pretty much press it in and out of alignment with my finger and it was just a murphy's law thing to me. It's mechanically limited now so I would need to bash it with a hammer in order to get it to misalign.

  5. I've owned my car for almost half my life now, and the emergency brake has never seemed to hold. I even replaced the pedal years back and it still just popped out whenever I stomped it down. It's been parked in flat garages for years, but now it is an issue because I failed inspection lol. After a quick analysis it seems that the pawl that locks against the "geared" tooth on the pedal slipped out on one side and was crooked. Whenever any kind of load was applied to the pedal the ratcheting mechanism was defeated as if the release handle was pulled. In order to fix this I welded a plate to limit the pawl's side to side travel. It seems to be holding even when I pull on the pedal, so I'm pretty happy for the $0 and 15 minutes I just spent.


    The problem- This guy (pawl in a ratchet mechanism) was falling into the V shaped slot and riding crooked on the "gear" of the pedal.






    The solution- cut a small plate out of scrap sheet metal using tin snips and weld in place to keep the pawl centered over the gear.



    I'm obviously not a welder but it works! I just needed to tweak the clearance by bending the plate slightly with a screwdriver to allow the pawl to move freely.

  6. Ongoing efforts to fit a 14 inch aftermarket air cleaner with filtered top into 15 inch opening in Ram Air plenum. I have a 460 with Weiand Stealth high-rise intake, so there isn't enough room for stock type air cleaner.  Removed about 3/8 inch of laminated alternating aluminum spacers and gaskets under carb to increase total vertical space available.


    Now dropped air cleaner base sits flush on reinforcement bar between shock towers (expected that..). Ordered 1/4" and 1/2" aluminum air cleaner base spacers because underside of filtered air cleaner top also hits Holley 750 air horns and can't have base sitting on shock tower cross brace either.


    Obviously using either of those base spacers will reduce vertical space available again, so can't use 14 x 3 inch filter and trying to fit 14x2 filter instead (which is why the dropped base results in carb top interference with filtered top steel underside).


    Have a Performer 460 intake still in the box too and I am sure that would simplify vertical space issues, but really want to keep the Weiand on it.  So, not giving up on adapting to that intake yet.


    Standard aftermarket air cleaner top appears that it would fit better than filtered (thicker) top on both carb top clearance and underside of hood structure, but not sure that the 14 x 2 inch side filter can draw enough air under higher RPM (probably not over 4500-5000).  Forgot what cam is in the motor, but think it was Lunati 268H.  Trans is CJ big spline Toploader and rear is 3.55:1.


    Any air flow guru's have any ideas about whether I would have sufficient air flow with 14 x 2 inch filter and a solid air cleaner top, as opposed to the filtered top that would seem to alleviate any potential restricted air flow issues (but is considerably more difficult to squeeze into the limited space) ?


    There was a good video from engine masters* on air cleaner theory.. The filter top seems to be great because the air is already traveling at a high velocity in the direction it needs to go (down into the carb throat). They ran a literal salad bowl with just a filter top and it was at the top of the performance spectrum of their comparison.  


  7. We're getting some nice weather this week so I got my fuel system together. I ran new 3/8 NiCopp hardlines from the new tanks inc. in-tank pump setup and replaced the -8 pushlock I was running all around with -6. I spent today trying to figure out the whacky setup that holds my fuel rails down but finally got it. Now I just need to install the exhaust pipes, install the power steering pump, the radiator, connect the rest of the wiring and mount the battery. I keep saying it will run soon but I mean it this time lol. There's so many things I'm coming across that I really don't like and I'm taking the time to fix. I already revised the squiggly return line in the picture with a cleaner 45º hose end and a bit shorter hose. This was a "pull the engine and replace the bearings in a weekend" deal and is turning into a full restoration  :shootself:



    Stock engine block color too!

    I'll probably tell people it's an olds motor for fun.



    I assume you're talking about 400 HP at the rear wheels, I'm thinking quite a bit more than that at the flywheel. ::thumb::

    That'd be a nice surprise, I hope you're right haha. My injectors will only support 500 hp though, I should be able to get an idea from the duty cycle they run at.

  9. Wouldn't the simplest, cheapest, quickest way to get lower times would be to use a shorter track?  You'd be halfway there!  Just sayin'...


    The math checks out  ::thumb::


    What's the compression of the stockish 429? The simplest (on paper) ways would be more bang in the cylinders either by running the thinnest head gasket you can for a compression bump or getting a cheap nitrous kit. A small nitrous shot (<100 shot) is relatively safe on any engine, especially if you have less compression than desirable (I would assume you are in the 8-9 static CR range based on the ET).

  10. Found some motor mounts for cheap on ebay and they turned out to be in great shape. They were being sold as 71-73 mounts so I figured the seller didn't realize they were rare. You can still see the ford logo in the rubber and they are solid. I am considering rebuilding my loose set with polyurethane just to see how hard it would be.




    I believe those are 73 they are different and the vert is different from coupe and fastback also in 73. The 73 mount cannot separate and the engine roll over trapped by metal.

    They are 73, I have to double check that they are for a fastback but they look just like my old set.

  11. Found some motor mounts for cheap on ebay and they turned out to be in great shape. They were being sold as 71-73 mounts so I figured the seller didn't realize they were rare. You can still see the ford logo in the rubber and they are solid. I am considering rebuilding my loose set with polyurethane just to see how hard it would be.



  12. A friend gave me a solid roller cam he used in his drag car before going bigger. The cam card was lost when he moved. I called Chet Herbert cams and got the specs of the cam. 

    The specs are:


    Part #H6H

    258/270 E

    685 Intake

    683 Exhaust

    108 lobe center


    Will this work in my 460? I plan to use a stroker kit and do the recommended blending work on the heads. Per my earlier posts the heads have already been setup with screw in studs and guide plates.


    It is going in my 1972 Mach 1 factory 4 speed posi car. It is a weekend cruiser car not a daily driver but I still want to pass by at least every other gas stationtango_face_grin.png





    That's pretty aggressive on the lift, and I'm not sure what lift the duration is measured at. It could potentially be extremely agressive if it's @.050 lol. You'd definitely need a good spring that doesn't go solid at that lift, and most likely some kind of vacuum pump to run power brakes. I don't think it's a "cruiser" cam, it'll sound really cool if you have some compression but you probably won't see power until 4-5000 RPM up to 8k or so. It's also worth mentioning that if you're not already running a solid roller, you might be spending $700+ on just the lifters if you want them to last. I sure did :(

  13. Got my new fuel tank setup for the Tanks Inc. in-tank setup. I 3d printed a drill jig for the vent opening since my 3" hole saw melted when I tried to use it on steel. I think I accidentally hardened the steel in another project lol. I was having issues with my argon tank and ended up just welding with flux core because I wont have a chance to get a new tank until next week. It looks hideous before I cleaned it up but worked good. Man do I suck with a hammer and dolly too, took me quite a while to get to something marginally acceptable. Took me the better part of Sunday with a trip to home depot in between. All I really need to do now is have bosses welded to my intake manifold so I can bolt the fuel rails down. I am using some convoluted clamp setup that I have never liked. I'd like to also run a smaller hard line under the car because I am using -8 pushlock now and don't feel comfortable with it.









    I'm having a really hard time finding engine mounts, I might just end up fabricating a set. I like what Jason at autoedit did (@1:28): https://youtu.be/bNnukhEMQbo?t=1m28s looks like he just welded a 1/4" steel riser to the frame side mount.

  14. https://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstorefront/federalmogul/en/USD/Engine/Cylinder-Block-Components/PSTON-EnginePiston/Sealed-Power-Cast-Piston-(Carton-of-8)/p/P425NP30#.WbxYYLKGOUl

    I used these, about 8cc. On my engine they also gave me .030 deck height which dropped the compression a bit more from what I expected. I'm at 9.9 static compression with a 62cc head and .027 cometic gasket on a .030 over block.

  15. Finally felt comfortable with my rocker geometry. Ended up using the 90º at half lift method.

    I marked a line connecting the centerlines of the rocker trunion and roller shaft and aligned it to the parallel with the valve retainer. 

    I then screwed the poly lock in by 1/2 of my gross lift (.606 lift /2 = .303) 

    The rocker stud is 20 TPI so each revolution would be .050, so I went 6 turns plus a hair to get .303.

    I did this with an 8.425" long pushrod which was not contacting the rocker at this point. I used a dial indicator to measure the slack between the rocker arm and the tip of the pushrod and came up with .125". I happened to have a 8.550 long pushrod and repeated the process with that one. I put my dial indicator on the valve retainer and rotated the engine to 1/2 lift with everything installed. I took a picture and drew a line in my CAD program and it is only 1º off from perfect which is close enough for me. Ordered the pushrods and will get them Wednesday. 

    There's not left much to do besides install the oil pan and intake manifold at this point. 

    This picture is my rocker geometry at half lift ::thumb:: :


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