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Everything posted by downwardspiral

  1. This is a pretty rough thread, sorry to hear it happened. What is the safest replacement motor mount setup for a 73? I never seemed to figure out the winning combo but this is a wakeup call!
  2. Started playing with pushrod length.. I started with 8.425 and it was bottoming out the poly lock with 0.030 free play between the rocker and the pushrod so I got 8.500 and 8.550's to check them. The 8.500 seems to give me proper geometry but I figure I'll post the wear pattern in case it is wrong. It looks close enough to the center to me: Intake: Exhaust: Also, is it normal for the set screw to stick out of the poly locks this much?
  3. I was having repeatability issues with my dial indicator setup degreeing the cam. I got it to the point where I could go through the cam's full cycle and it would read zero before it opened the valve and after it closed. The cam was 2º advanced so I retarded it 2º and got the numbers on the cam card within a degree so I am ready to go. I took off friday and the tuesday after labor day so I plan on getting the engine together and possibly in (wishful thinking) in the next week.
  4. My rockers were on backorder since May, and those came in today. Got some beefy 3/8" pushrods to check the length and some other boring stuff. I might actually assemble the engine this weekend if all goes well. I am a realist though, and this thing has been apart for 3 years so we'll see.
  5. Degreed the cam again because the numbers didn't quite add up to me after sleeping on it. Now I'm even more unsure since I got different numbers altogether. I made the setup as rigid as possible but I think my problem may be that I am indicating on a curved surface of the lifter. I ordered indicator extensions so I can hit a flat surface on the lifter, they should be here Weds.
  6. Everything is probably gunked up in the carb / fuel system. I'm dealing with the same thing in an outboard boat.
  7. Degreed the cam. I did the whole process 3 times. I think I did it right, but am attributing the error I am seeing to my indicator and setup. I'm going to say it is OK.. I found true TDC, found the intake centerline then found the open/close at .015 and .050. The intake centerline was within 1/2 degree, but the others were a few degrees off. Measured Intake CL= 107.25-107.5º // From Cam Card = 107º [Fine to me] Measured open / close @ .015 = 39-40º BTDC / 72.5-73º ABDC // From Cam Card = 37º / 71º Measured open / close @ .050 = 15º BTDC / 44-44.5º ABDC // From Cam Card = 12º / 46º I think it's close enough for me, I'm just gonna send it.
  8. that rules! I got my new springs in, I ordered the wrong hardware but found the right stuff locally. After 3 trips to ace and drilling out the spring mounts (theres still plenty of meat left, went from a 1/2" bolt to 9"16 but both are overkill) It's together. I also had to take my shifter apart because I couldn't get it into neutral only. All the screws were seized so they had to be drillled and one needs to be retapped to the next size up. BOATS ARE FUN :shootself:
  9. The brake booster is on the wrong side! ::thumb::
  10. Pulled the boat trailer axle. Should be getting the leaf springs and enough parts to put my 351c together tomorrow so it should be a good day. Those gt350s are awesome cars. I'd love one in that non-metallic grey color.
  11. Nice, I have been thinking about buying a set. Looks like something I could handle
  12. I would use a thin coat blue thread sealant (Locktite) at the rear of the main bearing cap. It's an anaerobic and it won't cure until after the cap is bolted down. All excess will squeeze out and there is no chance of it messing with bearing clearance as is possible with RTV. Yes, you can remove and replace main bearing cap without removing pistons. Did you set the thrust bearing cap correctly? Thanks, I will do that. I will also align the thrust bearing as outlined in my shop manual. edit- DONE, thanks again Don you're definitely a guru. Now I'm just waiting on the timing cover seals and a degree wheel. I plan on degreeing the cam on the lifter before I put the heads on. I don't really want to mess around with removing valve springs and all that.
  13. The trailer is from 74 so I guess it was original.. luckily the ramp is up the block from me!
  14. Assembled the bottom end again. I took it apart because I wasn't happy with the way I installed the rear main seal and I'm glad I did. I got silicone all over the crank and it wasn't spinning nicely. This time I only put a tiny bit of silicone where the halves meet. I didn't put any under the main cap this time though, so I may take it apart yet again and do that. I can re-torque the crank without pulling out all the pistons, right?
  15. I put my boat in the water for the it's maiden voyage on Friday, got back to my driveway and noticed the wheel a little forward on the trailer. The leaf spring snapped and the axle is just dancing around :whistling: .. I ordered new springs and will be getting an axle soon. Got the boat ready to drop the axle out and rebuilt the carburetors today. It starts right up with no throttle input now, which it has never done before. I can't wait to take it out again ::thumb:: I did also finish assembling the bottom end of the mustang today so there's that.
  16. Put in a piston to measure my deck clearance and it was way more than I expected. I measured .035" and even double checked with a feeler gage. I was planning on 10.2:1 compression and this will put me at 9.9, which kind of puts my cam out of optimal range. It will work fine on pump gas though, and should sound good. Just ordered head gaskets and a timing chain so I can get it back together. Engine bay is painted to a point I'm happy with it. It should come together in the next month or so.
  17. I scrapped them for like $2.. At least I won't stub my toe on them anymore.
  18. Got the second to last coat of paint on the engine bay. Used POR15 top coat. It looks perfect sheen wise to me, I just need to touch up a few spots.
  19. I responded to your PM.. Here's what mine look like, not sure they are better than yours. The white looking valves are the sunken ones.
  20. Anyone want 2v open chamber heads for the cost of shipping? A few valves are sunk, and they aren't worth much. If you live on Long Island NY come pick them up for free. I'm scrapping them in a week if there's no interest but it kind of kills me.
  21. I made a cc tester for about $20 but I had lexan laying around for some reason. I actually still have some if you want a plate. I bought a plastic 50cc buret for like $5 shipped on amazon, a bottle of weak rubbing alcohol and some vasoline. You can use food coloring to make it easier to see but I could do it without it and didn't have any. You can really dial it in based off of the measured values. The calculator 73pony posted is all you would need, even helps with the cam.
  22. My engine shop picked out my cam and ordered the fun stuff. If I recall correctly: .608 lift - 240 duration@.050 - 112 LSA solid roller. Operating range 2600-6800. Comp Ultra Pro Magnum roller rockers, Crane Ultra-Pro lifters [$700+ :happyno: ] and whatever guide plates. I will start being excited when the cam slides in the block and rotates freely so I know I did the bearings right. Hoping to assemble the engine next week. I am considering keeping the megasquirt 2 setup I am currently running just to start it up and see how it behaves, but I always seemed to have strange issues pop up with it. If it starts acting up I will replace it. I kind of just want to hear the cam chop at idle at this point, I don't even want to drive the car :D
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